AN 


ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY, 


IN    THE    AUTUMN    OF    1854. 


BY 


ISAAC   I.  HAYE9,  M.D., 

SURGEON' OF  THE  SECOND  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION,  AUTHOR 
OF  "THE  OPEN  POLAR  SEA." 


NEW    EDITION.    ENLARGED    AND    ILLUSTRATED. 


BOSTON: 
JAMES    R.    OSGOOD    AND    COMPANY, 

LATH  TICKNOR  &  FIELDS,  AND  FIELDS,  OSGOOD,  &  Co. 
1871. 


H 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1860,  by 
I.     I.     HAYES, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Eastern 
District  of  Pennsylvania. 


Entered  accoriiag  io  Act  of  Qonftrjs^in-  the  year  1867,  by 

TICKNOK     AND  'FIELDS, 
In  the  Clerk's -Office  »f  tfce  Sistncb  OoOr*.  of  (he  district  of  Massachusetts. 


UNIVERSITY  PRESS  :  WELCH,  BIGE'.OW,  &  Co., 
CAMBRIDGE. 


/  DEDICATE    THIS  BOOK 


THE  COMPANIONS   WHO   SHARED   WITH   ME  THE  FORTUNES 
WHICH  IT  RECORDS. 


M  5802 


PREFACE. 


THE  readers  of  the  narrative  of  Dr.  Kane  will  re 
member  that,  in  the  autumn  of  1854,  eight  persons, 
being  a  portion  of  the  officers  and  crew  of  the  brig 
Advance,  then  in  Rensselaer  Harbor,  made  an  at 
tempt  to  reach  Upernavik,  in  North  Greenland,  the 
nearest  outpost  of  civilization.  The  party  were  ab 
sent  during  nearly  four  months,  and  they  returned 
to  the  brig  unsuccessful. 

It  was  the  wish  of  Dr.  Kane  to  receive  from  me  a 
written  report  of  the  journey ;  but  as  I  was  disabled 
at  the  time  of  my  return,  he  accepted  one  from  my 
dictation ;  and,  under  the  impression  that  he  was 
thus  possessed  of  all  that  he  required,  I  gave  no 
further  attention  to  the  subject.  It  subsequently 
appeared  that  I  was  in  error;  for,  when  his  narra 
tive  was  going  through  the  press,  he  informed  me 
that  my  verbal  report  was  too  meagre  for  his  use, 
and  that  he  had  expected  a  more  complete  state- 


viii  PREFACE. 

merit  of  the  principal  events.  Before  I  could  act 
upon  this  information,  I  was  prostrated  by  fever; 
and,  as  Dr.  Kane's  manuscript  was  put  into  type  as 
fast  as  prepared,  and  was  immediately  stereotyped, 
the  opportunity  was  unavoidably  lost  to  me." 

After  the  publication  of  the  main  narrative  of  the 
expedition,  my  own  memoranda  appeared  too  insig 
nificant  to  justify  the  issue  of  a  separate  volume. 
My  friends  and  other  persons  represented  to  me, 
from  time  to  time,  that  even  minute  details  of  life 
in  a  region  so  remote,  so  peculiar,  and  so  little 
known  as  that  in  which  I  had  passed  nearly  a  third 
of  a  year,  would  not  fail  to  interest  the  general 
reader;  but  it  needed  a  stronger  inducement  than 
such  persuasions  to  overcome  my  reluctance  to  issue 
a  book. 

Having  undertaken  to  conduct  another  expedi 
tion  toward  the  North  Pole,  as  soon  as  my  coun 
trymen  will  furnish  the  moderate  outfit  required  for 
this  object,  my  time  and  efforts  have  been  exclu 
sively  devoted  to  the  necessary  preliminary  meas 
ures.  My  experienced  publishers  having  encouraged 
me  to  believe,  not  only  that  a  somewhat  extended 
report  of  the  incidents  of  the  journey  of  1854  would 
be  acceptable  to  the  public,  but  also  that  it  would 
probably  contribute  towards  the  expenses  of  my 


PREFACE.  ix 

preparations,  I  have  yielded  to  the  temptation  of 
fered  by  their  favorable  judgment,  and  their  liberal 
readiness  to  assume  the  risks  of  the  press. 

Beside  the  foregoing  explanation  of  the  motives 
which  have  led  to  the  issuing  of  the  following 
pages,  the  reader  is  requested  to  bear  in  mind  that 
they  contain  a  record  chiefly  of  personal  adventure, 
the  interest  of  which  is  dependent,  for  the  most 
part,  upon  the  strangeness  of  the  place  and  circum 
stances.  I.  I.  H 

PHILADELPHIA,  JANUARY  1,  1860 


PUBLISHERS'    NOTE 
TO     THE     NEW    EDITION. 

PUBLIC  attention  having  been  again  conspicuously 
directed  to  the  subject  of  Arctic  exploration  and  ad 
venture  by  the  issue  of  Dr.  Hayes's  "  Open  Polar  Sea," 
the  publishers  have  responded  to  what  has  seemed  to 
them  a  general  desire  on  the  part  of  those  interested  in 
such  matters,  by  issuing  a  new  edition  of  Dr.  Hayes's 
earliest  work,  —  a  work  which  may  be  regarded  as 
the  precursor  of  his  later  one,  inasmuch  as  the  discov 
eries  recorded  in  "The  Open  Polar  Sea"  were  made 
upon  the  basis  of  plans  announced  in  the  "  Boat 
Journey."  In  relation  to  this  republication  they  have 
received  from  the  author  the  following  letter,  which 
will  have  the  greater  interest  at  this  time  that  the  ex 
plorations  referred  to  have,  since  the  letter  was  written, 
won  the  highest  recognition  from  the  patrons  of  scien 
tific  discovery,  —  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of 
England  having  awarded  to  Dr.  Hayes  the  Victoria 
Medal,  as  a  mark  of  their  appreciation  of  the  important 
additions  which  he  has  made  to  geographical  knowl 
edge,  and  for  "  having  reached  a  more  northern  point 


xii  PUBLISHERS'  NOTE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 

of  Arctic  Land  than  ever  was  attained  by  any  previous 
explorer,"  —  an  honor  well  bestowed,  for  few  men  liv 
ing  have  added  to  our  maps  more  of  absolutely  new 
territory,  while  no  previous  traveller  has  done  so 
much  in  the  exploration  of  the  interior  of  Greenland, 
which  Dr.  Hayes  has  designated  as  "  a  vast  reservoir 
of  ice." 

NEW  YORK,  No.  33  West  24th  St. 
May  18th,  1867. 

To  MESSRS.  TICKNOR  AND  FIELDS  :  — 

MY  DEAR  SIRS,  —  Accepting  without  hesitation  your 
liberal  offer,  I  have  this  day  placed  subject  to  your 
order  the  plates  of  the  "  Arctic  Boat  Journey  "  ;  and 
I  avail  myself  of  the  occasion  to  say  that  I  am  much 
gratified  to  learn  from  you  that  a  new  edition  appears 
to  be  desired  ;  for  since  the  book  served  the  purpose  of 
its  original  publication,  I  have  always  looked  upon  it  as 
an  ephemeral  thing. 

And  right  well  did  it  serve  its  purpose  ;  for  the  Ex 
pedition  to  the  Arctic  Seas,  which  was  intended  to  be 
aided  (and  was  aided)  by  it,  sailed  in  accordance  with 
the  plan  therein  set  forth,  and  the  Expedition  returned 
in  some  sense  more,  and  in  some  sense  less  successful 
than  was  expected.  If,  however,  owing  to  unusual 
obstacles,  the  enterprise  did  not  result,  as  I  had  hoped 
it  would,  in  the  launching  of  my  boat  upon  the  Open 
Polar  Sea,  it  was  yet  fortunate  enough  to  penetrate 
to  the  shores  of  that  mysterious  water,  where  (car- 


PUBLISHERS'  NOTE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION.  xiii 

ried  thither  over  the  ice  by  a  dog  sledge)  I  planted  th& 
American  Flag  upon  a  Land  nearer  to  the  North  Pole 
than  had  over  been  reached  by  any  previous  explorer, 
—  thus  giving  to  the  Republic  the  extreme  northeast 
ern  border  of  the  American  Continent,  while  purchase 
has  recently  contributed  the  northwestern. 

Something  of  this  it  will  be  well  for  you  to  state  in 
a  prefatory  note  to  the  edition  you  propose,  since  read 
ers  of  books  which  have  a  sequel  like  to  know  what 
that  sequel  is,  provided  they  can  have  it  in  a  few  lines. 

In  addition  to  this,  I  would  have  you  also  say,  as  a 
further  sequel,  (so  far  as  a  mere  intention  may  be 
called  such,)  that  it  was  my  purpose  to  have  returned 
north  again  in  the  spring  of  1862,  in  order  to  resume 
the  exploration  which  I  had  begun  in  1854,  continued 
in  1860-61,  and  which  I  desired  to  complete.  From 
the  execution  of  this  purpose  I  was  prevented  by  the 
war  that  had  broken  out  in  my  absence,  and  in  the 
presence  of  which,  even  if  I  had  been  able  to  com 
mand,  to  the  fullest  measure  of  my  needs,  the  means 
to  that  design,  I  would  have  lacked  the  inclination  to 
quit  the  country  at  so  critical  a  period.  Under  the 
roof  of  a  mammoth  hospital  I  had  soon  sufficient  rea 
son  to  forget,  for  the  time  at  least,  the  Arctic  Re 
gions.  But  now  that  peace  has  come  back  once  more 
to  bless  us,  we  are  all  privileged  to  return  to  our  first 
loves.  Constancy  has  usually  been  esteemed  a  virtue, 
even  though  time  may  have  somewhat  chilled  the 


xiv  PUBLISHERS'  NOTE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 

ardor  (which  I  protest  is  not  my  case),  or  even  if 
the  object  may  have  proven  chilly  as  an  iceberg.  So, 
you  see,  there  is  a  possible  chance  that  this  little 
"  Boat  Journey  "  may  be  forced  to  do  a  double  ser 
vice,  and  if,  in  your  hands,  it  should  once  more  be 
made  to  advance  my  progress  to  Hyperborea,  then 
truly  it  will  "in  the  figure  of  a  lamb"  have  per 
formed  "  the  feats  of  a  lion,"  and,  like  the  youthful 
Claudio,  have  "  better  bettered  expectation." 

The  manner  in  which  you  propose  to  illustrate  it 
gives  me  some  confidence  that  this  may  come  about, 
otherwise  I  think  I  should  be  almost  as  reluctant  to 
issue  a  new  edition  of  it  as  I  was  to  write  the  book  at 
all ;  for  the  events  which  are  therein  recounted,  being 
almost  wholly  personal,  and  occurring  when  I  was  but 
two-and-twenty  (an  age  when  one  likes  rather  to  be  do 
ing  than  observing),  have  seemed  to  me  to  lack  those 
elements  which  give  a  book  value  beyond  the  circum 
stances  of  the  immediate  time  which  called  it  forth. 
If  it  should,  however,  as  you  appear  to  think,  possess 
any  merit  further  than  this,  then  it  must  mainly  de 
pend  upon  the  fact  that  it  is  the  record  of  an  excep 
tional  experience.  It  is  the  history  of  a  small  party 
of  men,  who  strove,  with  what  zeal  and  energy  they 
could,  to  overcome  certain  obstacles  of  ice,  and  storms, 
and  cold,  which  in  the  end  proved  too  much  for  them : 
and  yet  it  was  not  a  fruitless  journey,  for,  originally 
conceived  and  executed  as  a  measure  of  general  safety, 


PUBLISHERS'  NOTE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION.  xv 

it  resulted,  under  the  favor  of  Heaven,  as  was  intend 
ed  that  it  should  result,  though  in  a  different  manner, 
in  being  the  means  of  saving  the  entire  crew  of  the 
ill-fated  brig  Advance.  Beside  the  record  of  these 
unusual  events,  the  opening  and  concluding  chapters 
contain  a  rapid  sketch  of  the  leading  occurrences  of 
the  memorable  expedition  of  which  the  Boat  Journey 
was  but  an  incident.  And  here  I  have  thought  some 
thing  of  value  might  be  added  to  this  work,  by  giving, 
in  connection  with  these  events,  a  few  brief  notes, 
numbering  them  from  page  to  page,  thus  grouping,  in 
a  general  way,  the  fruits  of  subsequent  observation. 
These  notes  will  refer  chiefly  to  the  following  sub 
jects  :  — 

1st.  The  Open  Polar  Sea,  which  was  discovered  by 
Mr.  Morton  of  Dr.  Kane's  Expedition,  in  1854,  and 
was  subsequently  reached  by  me,  during  my  late  voy 
age,  in  another  and  more  northerly  quarter. 

2d.  Grinnell  Land,  —  the  most  northern  known 
land  of  the  globe,  projecting  into  the  Open  Polar  Sea, 
—  which  was  discovered  by  me  in  1854,  and  was  revis 
ited  in  1861  and  traced  to  within  less  than  four  hun 
dred  and  fifty  miles  of  the  north  pole. 

3d.  The  Great  Mer  de  Glace  of  Northern  Green 
land,  which  I  discovered  in  company  with  Mr.  Wilson 
in  1853,  and  over  which  I  performed  a  journey  of 
exploration  in  1860,  the  only  journey  of  the  kind  ever 
made. 


xvi  PUBLISHERS'  NOTE  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 

And  now,  to  bring  this  long  letter  to  an  end,  I  have 
only  further  to  express  the  hope  that  you  will  be  re 
warded  for  the  pains  you  purpose  taking  with  some 
thing  more  substantial  than  an  author's  thanks. 
Always  truly  yours, 

I.  I.  HAYES. 

It  is  only  necessary  for  the  publishers  further  to  ob 
serve,  that  the  author,  having  fully  carried  out  the 
above  design,  and  having  provided  charts  embodying 
his  latest  discoveries  as  well  as  materials  for  illustra 
tion,  they  believe  nothing  is  wanting  to  make  the 
"Boat  Journey"  acceptable  to  the  public. 

BOSTON,  July,  1867. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP                                                                                                           FAOI 
I.  INTRODUCTORY 1 

Leaving  New  York  — Entering  Smith  Strait  —  Passage  up  the 
•  Coast  —  Entering  Rensselaer  Bay — Dr.  Kane's  Boat  Journey 
to  the  North — In  Winter  Quarters  —  Journey  of  Mr.  Wilson 
and  Dr.  Hayes  into  the  Interior — The  great  Mer  de  Glace  — 
Preparing  for  the  Winter  —  Fall  Work  —  Journey  of  Messrs. 
McGary  and  Bonsall  —  Winter  Occupations  —  Preparing  for 
the  Spring  Work— The  Advance  Party —  Disaster  — Rescue 

—  Dr.  Kane's  Journey —  Dr.  Hayes'  Journey  —  William  Mor 
ton's   Journey  —  The   Open    Sea  —  The   Cruise    ended  —  Dr* 
Kane's  Attempt  to  reach  Beechy  Island  —  Baffled  by  the  Ice 
pack  —  His  Return  —  The  Advance  not  liberated  —  Dr.  Kane 
makes  a  final  Inspection  of  the  Ice  —  His  Announcement  to  the 
Officers  and  Crew— The  Winter    closing  in  — The    Question 
submitted — Dr.  Kane's  Opinion  —  Mr.  Petersen's  Opinions  — 
Conditions  —  Motives  —  Fluctuations  of  Judgment  —  Division 
of  the  Brig's  Company  into  two  equal  Parties  —  One  of  them 
is  to  attempt  a  Boat  Journey  to  Upernavik. 

II   PREPARATION 34 

Mr.  Petersen  chosen  Leader  and  Guide  of  the  Travelling  Party 

—  Preliminary  Journey —  Character  of  the  Travelling —  Camp 
at  the  Six-mile  Ravine  —  Return   on  board  —  Equipment  — 
Meeting  in  the  Cabin  —  The  Pledges  —  The  Parting. 

in.  THE   START 40 

Moving  along  the  Ice-foot  —  Fairly  off —  Discouraging  Prospect 

—  Ice,  Ice,  Ice  —  Relief-Party  take  leave  of  us  and  return  to  the 
Brig  — A  Gale  — Its  effect  upon  the  Ice  — The  Boat  "  Forlorn 
Hope  "  —  Esquimaux  —  Hans  after  them  —  The  "  Ice-foot "  — 
An  Incident —  Difficulty  in  getting  Fresh  Water. 

IV.  ACROSS    THE    ICE-FIELDS 48 

Taking  to  the  "  Floes  "  —  The  Sledge  breaks  through—  Cargo 


CONTENTS 

CHAP. 

damaged  —  Spirits  damaged  —  Retreat  of  Riley  and  John  — 
John  returns  —  Arrival  of  a  Party  from  the  Brig — The  Sledge 
'  Faith"  sent  back — Shouldering  Cargo  —  Afloat — Breaking 
a  Track  —  Arrival  of  another  Party  from  the  Brig  —  The 
"  Faith  "  returned  —  Protracted  Exertion  —  The  Musk-Ox  — 
The  main  Open  Water  reached  —  Camp  at  Esquimau  Point 

—  A  Breeze  —  Shaking  out  the  Sails. 

V    UNDER  SAIL 59 

Making  Four  Knots  —  Stopped  by  Ice — Camp  on  an  Ice-raft 

—  Shooting  Ducks  —  A  Lead  opening —  Rapidity  of  Ice-move 
ments  —  Hasty  Departure  —  Reaching  Life-boat  Bay  —  Hemmed 
in  by   Ice  —  In  Jeopardy  —  Entering   a  Lead  —  Landed  in 
Safety. 

VI.  A  GLOOMY  NIGHT 64 

After  the  Life-boat  —  Transporting  the  Boat  and  Cargo  over 
the  Ice  to  Open  Water  —  Crossing  the  Channel  to  Littleton 
Island  —  Blowing  a  Gale  —  Dangerous  Landing —  A  Duck  for 
Supper  —  Looking  for  the  "Hope" — John  on  the  Pack  — 
The  Storm  broken  —  The  "  Hope  "  discovered  —  Re-union. 

VII.  ROUNDING  CAPE  ALEXANDER 74 

The  North  Water  —  Naming  the  Boats  —  Under  weigh  —  A 
stiff  Breeze  — A  fine  View— The  Boats  off  the  Cape  — The 
Life-boat  broached  to  —  Sutherland  Island  —  A  Harbor !  — 
Detained  by  the  Storm  —  A  Glacier—  View  from  the  Cliffs. 

VIII.  THE  FLEET  AT  SEA 85 

Crossing  the  North  Water  —  Short-lived  Felicity  —  The  Ice 
pack  —  Boring  the  Pack  —  View  from  an  Iceberg  —  The  "  Mid 
dle  Ice" — Ice-navigation  —  The  Out-side  Passage  and  the 
In-shore  Passage  —  To  Northumberland  Island  —  The  Boats 
nipped  — A  Fox  shot  — The  Green  Hill-side— Cochlearia. 

IX.  NORTHUMBERLAND  ISLAND 94 

Repairing  the  Boats  —  A  Walk  to  the  Cliffs  —  View  to  Sea 
ward —  Ice  all  around  —  No  Lead — Reflections  —  Experience 
of  various  Navigators  in  Baffin  Bay  —  A  Fox-chase  —  Th« 
Council  —  The  Resolve. 

X.  AT  SEA  IN  A  SNOW-STORM 103 

No  Lead  yet  — An  Esquimau  Hunter  named  Amalatok  visits 
the  Camp  — He  lunches  on  Raw  Birds  and  Oil  —  Amalatok's 
Wife  and  Nephew  —  Gathering  Cochlearia  —  Change  in  the 


CONTENTS.  XI* 

CHAP.  PAQI 

Ice  — Hasty  Departure—  Overtaken  by  a  Snow-storm  —  Be 
wildered— The  Compass  useless— Camp  on  an  Ice-raft  — 
The  Adventures  of  a  Night  —  Landing  on  Herbert  Island — 
Blowing  hard  and  drifting— The  Cook  in  Trouble. 

XI.  ACROSS  WHALE  SOUND 114 

The  Storm  broken  —  Hunting  —  Burgomaster  Gulls  — 
Breaking  through  the  Ice  —  Under  Sail  —  Approaching  the 
Main-Land  —  Esquimaux  discovered  —  Conducted  to  their 
Settlement  — A  merry  landing— The  Camp  —  The  Village 
of  Netlik. 

VII.  AMONG  THE  ESQUIMAUX ,     121 

Kalutunah,  the  Angekok  —  Trading  for  Blubber  —  A  Night 
Scene  —  An  Esquimau  Hut  —  The  Interior  —  Esquimau 
Hospitality — An  Esquimau  Delicacy. 

XIII.  HOPES  CHECKED 130 

Poverty  of  the  Esquimaux — Theft  discovered  —  Leaving 
Netlik  —  Cape  Parry  reached  —  The  everlasting  Pack  — 
Beset  — The  Winter  closing  in  — Progress  arrested  — Re 
treat  cut  off— The  Climax  — The  Prospect. 

XIV.  BUILDING  A  HUT J39 

Locality  described  —  Searching  for  a  Site  —  A  Crevice  found 

—  Plan  arranged  —  Gathering  Stones  —  Getting  Sand  —  Build 
ing  the    Wall  —  Roofing  —  Storm-stayed  —  Building    Fox- 
traps  —  Hunting  —  Moss  Food— Roasted  Coffee  gives  out 

—  Comparative  merits  of  Coffee  and  Tea— Cheerless  Times. 

XV.  HUT-BUILDING  CONTINUED 149 

Breakfasting  under  Difficulties  — Getting  Water  from  the 
Lake  —  A  Day  of  unmitigated  Misery  —  The  Canvas  Tent 

—  Reading  "  Ivanhoe  "  —  A  clear  Morning  and  a-  stormy 
Evening  — Gathering  Moss  — A  gloomy  Sunday  —  Stephen- 
son  Sick  —  Housed  —  Snowing  and    Blowing  —  The  first 
Evening  in  the  Hut  —  Inventory. 

XVI.  THE   HUT   DISCOVERED  BY  ESQUIMAUX 160 

The  Hut  imbedded  in  Snow —  Arrival  of  Kalutunah  and  an 
other  Hunter  from  Netlik  —  Description  of  them  —  A  sub 
stantial  Meal  —  Tunnelling  the  Snow-Drift  to  get  out  — 
Fierceness  of  Dogs  —  Bargaining  for  Supplies  —  Kalu- 
tunah's  Cunning  —  Peterson's  Diplomacy  —  Esquimau  Man 
hood. 


XX  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  PACT 

XVII.  A  TWO  WEEKS'  FAMINE 172 

Doorway  made  —  Description  of  the  Hut  —  Boat  broken  up 
for  Fuel  —  Building  Fox-traps  —  Fox-Hunting  —  Short  Al 
lowance  —  Eating  Stone-Moss  —  Reduced  condition  of  the 
Party  —  Arrival  of  Esquimaux  —  Saved  from  present  Peril. 

XVIII.  SCHEMES  FOR  MOVING  SOUTHWARD 182 

Supplies  obtained  —  A  Cheerful  Evening  —  Two  Foxes 
caught  —  Visiting  the  Traps  —  Thoughts  of  Home  —  Schemes 
discussed  —  A  Young  Lover  —  "'David  Copperfield  "  — 
Doubtful  Plans  —  Communication  with  the  Brig  necessary. 

XIX.  PLANS  FOR  OBTAINING  SUPPLIES 192 

Petersen  volunteers  to  attempt  a  Journey  to  the  Brig  —  A 
Woman  and  a  Baby  among  our  Visitors  —  Geographical 
Range  of  the  Esquimaux — Proposals  to  the  Esquimaux  — 
Attempted  Bargain  —  Propositions  for  going  to  Cape  York 

—  The  Widow  —  Her    Meal    and   her    friendly  Proffers  - 

i Penance  —  Departure  of  Mr.  Petersen  and  Godfrey  in  charge 
of  Kalutunah  —  Departure  of  Mr.  Sonntag  and  John  for 
Akbat. 

XX.  PETERSEN 203 

Hopes  of  the  Party  centred  in  Petersen  —  His  early  Life 

—  His  Greenland  Experience  —  His  Services  to  the  Search 
ing  Expeditions. 

XXI.  INTERCOURSE  WITH  THE  ESQUIMAUX 208 

Low  Temperature  of  the  Hut  —  Occupations  —  Value  of 
Books  —  Reading  Anatomy  —  Return  of  Mr.  Sonntag  and 
John,  with  two  Esquimaux,  and  a  small  supply  of  Food  — 
Esquimau  Dogs  —  Esquimau  Sledge  —  Provision  for  a- Jour 
ney  —  Dog-Harness  —  Watching  the  Hunters  —  Happiness ! 

XXH.  FAILURE   OF  OUR  PLANS 222 

Visiting  the  Traps  —  Return  of  Mr.  Petersen   and  Godfrey 

—  Both  broken  down  —  Treachery  of  the  Esquimaux  —  Keep 
ing  Guard. 

XXIH.  PETERSEN'S  ADVENTURES  AMONG  THE  ESQUI 
MAUX 227 

The  first  day  at  Netlik  —  The  Savage  Sip-su  —  Suspicion  of 
Treachery  —  Dread  of  Fire-arms  —  Conspiracy  discovered 

—  Flight  and  Pursuit  —  Perseverance. 

XXIV.  SUPPLIES  OBTAINED  WHEN  LEAST  EXPECTED..    236 
Resources  apparently  exhausted  —  Des<  lation  —  Arrival  of 


CONTENTS.  xxi 

Ciur.  PAW 

Kalutunah  and  other  Esquimaux  —  Reconciliation  —  Peter- 
sen  making  Knives  —  Abundant  Supplies  —  The  Sentimental 
Widow  again  —  Kingiktok  and  his  Story  —  The  Witch-Wife— 
Novel  mode  "of  Execution  —  The  Rivals  — Hope  for  the  Es 
quimaux. 

XXV.  GOOD  CHEER 247 

Eleven  Visitors  —  More  Supplies  —  Kalutunah  and  the  Knife 

—  High  temperature  of  the  Hut  —  A  savage  Feast  —  Learn 
ing  to  count  —  Astronomical  Fables  — Encouragement. 

XXVI.  FURTHER  PLANS 257 

Rations  —  Animal  Food—  Health  of  the  Party  —  Healthful- 
ness  of  the  Climate  —  Esquimau  Beards  —  Plans  for  com 
municating  with  the  Brig  —  Shunghu  —  Esquimaux  Hunt 
ing-grounds  —  Tattarat  and  his  Family  moving  away  from 
Cape  York  —  The  Sea  in  that  vicinity  closed  —  Purchase  of 
Dogs  —  Making  a  Sledge  —  Provisions  all  consumed  —  A 
Providential  Fox  —  Blubber  and  Moss-Soup. 

XXVII.  PREPARATIONS  FOR  ABANDONING  THE  HUT....     267 
The  Alternatives  —  The  Determination  —  Meagre  Clothing 

—  Tailoring  —  Value  of  Coffee  —  Walrus  Hide  for  Food  — 
Mischievous  Esquimaux  —  Purchase  of  two  Dogs  —  Dog  sto 
len  —  Equipment  for  the  contemplated  Journey  to  the  Brig. 

XXVIII.  DARKNESS  AHEAD  I 277 

The  Hut  abandoned  —  Slow  progress  of  the  Party  —  Ste- 
phenson  breaks  down  —  Return  to  the  Hut  —  Stupefied  by 
Cold  —  Condition  of  the  Hut  —  Its  Temperature  —  Depart 
ure  of  Petersen  and  Bonsall  —  Visiting  the  Traps  —  A  Fox 
caught  —  Thoughts  of  Home. 

XXIX.  PLOTS  AND  COUNTER-PLOTS 287 

Kalutunah  and  two  other  Hunters  arrive  at  the  Hut  —  They 
reject  our  Proposals  and  reasonable  Demands  —  Plot  against 
them — They  are  drugged  with  Opium  —  The  Hut  abandoned 
again. 

XXX.  MOVING  NORTHWARD 294 

Difficulty  with  the  Dogs  —  Cape  Parry  reached  —  The  Party 
overtaken  by  the  Esquimaux  —  Subjection  of  the  Esqui 
maux  —  Reaching  Netlik  —  Astonishment  of  the  Natives  — 
The  Huts  —  Abundance  of  Food. 

XXXI.  OVER  THE  FROZEN  SEA 304 

To  Northumberland  Island  —  Eating  Frozen  Birds  —  News 


xxii  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  PAW 

of  Petersen  and  Bonsall  —  Among  the  Hummocks  —  Cross 
ing  Whale  Sound  —  Hardness  of  Snow-Crystals  —  A  cold 
Lunch  —  The  Main-land  reached  —  Karsooit  —  Sip-su  at 
home  —  To  the  double  Hut  at  Cape  Saumarez  —  An  exhil 
arating  Bide. 

XXXII.  ROUNDING  CAPE  ALEXANDER  AGAIN 313 

Up  the  Coast  —  Nearing  the  Cape  —  Wind  from  the  South 

—  Increases  to  a  moderate  Gale  —  A  wild  Scene  —  Meeting 
a  Crack  —  View  from  a  pile  of  Hummocks  —  Broken  Ice 
and  Open  Water  —  Mounting  the  Land-ice  —  Meeting  a  Gla 
cier  —  Another  Crack  —  Crossing  it  —  In  the  Water  —  Wind 
ing  along  the  Ice-foot  —  A  dangerous  Passage  —  Reaching 
Etah. 

XXXm.  REACHING  THE  BRIG 320 

Leaving  Etah  — A  dash  after  a  Bear  —  Hummocks  and 
Darkness  —  Myouk  —  The  Hut  at  Anoatok  —  Disappoint 
ment  — -  Across  Bedevilled  Reach  —  The  Dogs  at  full  Speed 

—  Sighting  the  Brig  —  On  board  —  CONCLUSION  —  Our  Es 
quimaux  Drivers  return  to  their  Homes  —  Experience  of 
Petersen  and  Bonsall  —  Scorbutic  condition  of  those  who 
remained  at  the  Brig  —  The  returned  Party  are  one  by  one 
stricken  down  with  the  Disease  —  Return  of  Spring  —  Par 
tial  recovery  of  the  Sick  —  Final  abandonment  of  the  Brig 
by  the  entire   Company  —  Journey  to  Upernavik  —  The 
Danish  Brig — Passage  secured  for  Copenhagen  —  To  God- 
havn  —  Mr.   Olrik  —  The  United  States  Vessels  —  Hearty 
Welcome  —  Captain  Hartstene's  vigorous  Search  —  Return 
to  New  York. 

XXXIV.  CONCLUDING  REMARKS 331 

The  popular  Idea  of  the  Dangers  of  Arctic  Travelling—  Rea 
sons  therefor  —  Dangerous  voyages  exceptional  —  Compar 
ison  between  the  difficulties  of  Arctic  exploration  and  the 
exploration  of  other  regions  —  Value  of  Experience  —  Illus 
trations  —  The  experience  of  the  last  three  centuries  shows 
the  Arctic  Ocean  to  be  invested  by  a  Belt  of  Ice  —  Dr. 
Kane's  Explorations  prove  that  this  Belt  can  be  most  readi 
ly  broken,  through  Smith  Strait  —  By  this  route  the  North 
Pole  can  be  reached  —  Route  of  the  Discovery,  and  Whale- 
ships  in  Baffin  Bay  —  The  Current  and  Ice  of  Smith  Strait 

—  Cause  of  Dr.  Kane's  failure  to  reach  a  higher  latitude  — 
Cape  Frazer  and  the   Coasts  of  Grinnell  Land  —  Scurvy 
easily  avoided  —  Fresh  Food  necessary  —  Health  of  the  Boat- 
party  —  Temperature  and  travelling  —  The  Cold  no  obsta- 


CONTENTS.  ^  xxiii 

PAQB 

cle  to  exploration  —  The  Open  Sea,  and  the  proofs  of  its 
existence  —  Nature  of  the  Country  —  Route  of  Dr.  Hayes' 
proposed  Expedition  toward  the  North  Pole  —  Comparison 
of  Distances  —  Position  of  Baffin  in  1616  —  The  dangers  en 
countered  by  Arctic  travellers  generally  less  than  those  en 
countered  by  travellers  in  Africa. 


APPENDIX. 

PROCEEDINGS  OF  SCIENTIFIC  SOCIETIES,  AND 
LETTERS,  RELATIVE  TO  DR.  HAYES'  PROPOSED 
ARCTIC  EXPEDITION 355. 

I.  The  American  Geographical  and  Statistical  Society. 
H.   The  American  Association  for  the  Advancement  of  Science. 

III.  The  American  Philosophical  Society,  Philadelphia. 

IV.  The  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  of  Philadelphia. 
V.   The  American  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  Boston. 

VI.   The  Boston  Society  of  Natural  History. 
VII.  The  New  York  Lyceum  of  Natural  History. 
VIII.   The  Royal  Geographical  Society,  London. 

IX.  Letter  from  Professor  A.  Dallas  Bache. 
X.  Letter  from  M.  de  la  Roquette. 


NOTES    TO    THE    NEW   EDITION 376 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


1.  THE  BOATS  AT  SEA Frontispiece 

2»  CHART  OF  SMITH  SOUND  AND  VICINITY        .        .       .          Page    1 

3.  THE  GREAT  MER  DE  GLACE 12 

4.  PLANTING  THE  FLAG  ON  GRINNELL  LAND      ....  22 
6.  TRACK  CHART  OF  THE  "BOAT  JOURNEY"         ....  68 

6.  A  GLOOMY  NIGHT 70 

7.  ADRIFT  ON  AN  ICE-RAFT 110 

8.  BUILDING  THE  HUT 144 

9.  ATTACKED  BY  DOGS .  168 

10.  VISITING  THE  FOX-TRAPS 178 

11.  GOOD  CHEER 252 

12.  THE  HALT 278 

13.  THE  DESOLATE  SEA 286 

14.  ROUNDING  CAPE  ALEXANDER  ON  THE  ICE  FOOT  .        .        .  318 


AN  AECTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 


CHAPTER  I.' 

INTRODUCTORY. 

IT  is  well  knowi^  that  the  Advance,  a  brigan- 
tine  of  one  hundred  and  forty-four  tons,  under  com 
mand  of  Dr.  E.  K.  Kane  of  the  United  States  Navy, 
sailed  from  New  York,  May  30th  1853,  on  her  sec 
ond  cruise  to  the  arctic  seas,  in  search  of  Sir  John 
Franklin. 

My  connection  with  the  expedition  dates  from  the 
day  prior  to  that  of  sailing.  Five  months  before, 
while  yet  a  student  of  medicine,  I  had  volunteered 
to  join  the  party.  The  offer  could  not  be  accepted 
at  that  time ;  and  it  was  not  until  the  18th  of  May 
that  I  received  notice  that  there  was  a  probability  of 
its  acceptance.  It  was  not  until  the  afternoon  of 
the  29th  that  I  obtained  my  appointment.  In  a  few 
hours  I  had  purchased  and  sent  aboard  my  outfit. 
Next  morning  'the  Advance  was  headed  for  Green 
land. 

The  historian  of  the  expedition  has  left  nothing 
new  for  me  to  communicate  concerning  the  more 
important  events  of  the  cruise ;  and  I  will  detain 
the  reader  over  this  introductory  chapter,  only  long 


2  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

enough  to  recall  such  facts  as  are  needed  to  connect 
the  narrative  of  Dr.  Kane  with  the  events  which  it 
is  the  purpose  of  this  book  to  record. 

In  consequence  of  the  prevalence  of  head-winds 
and  calrcs,  the  coast  of  Greenland  was  not  reached 
until  the  first  of  July ;  but,  the  season  being  unusu 
ally  forward,  we  made  up  for  lost  time  fcy  a  quick 
passage  through  that  gauntlet  of  the  Baffin  Bay 
wh^le  fishers,  the  "middle  ice,"  and  were  at  the  seat 
of  our  future  operations,  Smith  Strait,  by  the  7th  of 
August. 

Having  deposited  in  a  cairn  on  Lyttleton  Island, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  strait,  a  record  of  our  proceed 
ings  thus  far;  and  having  placed  on  the  main  land, 
about  two  miles  farther  to  the  north  and  east,  our 
Francis'  metallic  life-boat,  together  with  a  provision 
depot  upon  which  to  fall  back  in  case  of  accident, 
we  pushed  northward  through  the  strait,  on  the 
Greenland  side. 

Since  leaving  Cape  Dudley  Diggs  we  had  en 
countered  no  ice,  except  here  and  there  a  vagrant 
berg;  and  everything  looked  bright  and  promising 
as  we  sank  the  cavernous  cliffs  of  Cape  Alexander. 
With  a  fair  wind  and  topgallant-sails  set  we  sped 
over  a  broad  sheet  of  iceless  water,  whose  white- 
capped  waves,  bounding  away  toward  the  unknown 
north,  led  the  imagination  on  to  the  terra  incognita 
of  our  dreams;  but  an  ominous  "blink"  appeared 
from  the  top  of  Lyttleton  Island  ;  and,  before  the 
close  of  the  next  day,  our  dreams  were  effectually 
broken  by  a  heavy  pack  of  massive  ice-fields.  In 
this  we  lay  beset,  and  escaped  from  it  not  without 
some  severe  shocks,  to  Refuge  Inlet. 


INTRODUCTORY.  3 

During  the  twelve  following  days,  by  hard  labor 
and  almost  continual  battling  with  the  ice,  we  suc 
ceeded  in  making  about  forty  miles ;  and  then  found 
ourselves  at  the  bottom  of  a  broad,  shallow  bay, 
(called  then  Bedevilled  Reach,  but  named  more 
seriously  afterwards  in  honor  of  Mr.  Peter  Force,) 
and  there,  hemmed  in  by  grounded  bergs,  we  lay 
awaiting  a  change  of  weather. 

On  the  20th  a  violent  gale  set  in  from  the  south 
east,  and  the  ice  was  driven  off  rapidly  from  the  coast. 
The  Advance  was  broken  loose  from  her  anchorage  ; 
and,  unable  to  keep  her  head  against  the  driving 
wind,  she  was  swept  in  the  wake  of  the  drifting  floes 
across  the  bay,  and  was  finally  brought  up  among 
the  loose  "  trash  "  which  margined  a  solid  field  rest 
ing  on  the  north  face  of  Cape  Ingersoll. 

The  flight  across  Force  Bay  was  sufficiently  ter 
rific,  but  worse  followed.  The  dodging  among  the 
bergs  which  dotted  the  sea,  and  the  plunging  over  the 
waves  which  beat  and  broke  against  them;  the  escape 
from  being  crushed  between  two  closing  ice-islands; 
the  carrying  away  of  our  jib-boom  against  another 
in  an  attempt  to  wear,  after  a  fruitless  effort  to  go  to 
windward  ;  the  losing  of  our  best  bower  anchor  in  a 
struggle  to  bring  up  under  Cape  Grinrfell ;  the  gen 
eral  confusion;  the  clattering  of  blocks;  the  jibing  of 
the  main  boom,  from  port  to  starboard,  and  from  star 
board  to  port,  as  every  few  minutes  we  went  about ; 
the  whistling  of. the  wind  through  the  rigging;  the 
dashing  of  the  spray ;  the  general  babel  of  voices, 
were,  altogether,  less  startling  than  the  tossing, 
grinding,  surging,  of  the  broken,  crushed,  and  crumb 
ling  masses  which,  riding  on  the  billows,  opened  to 


4  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

receive  us.  At  first  they  were  few  in  number  and  fai 
between,  but  they  thickened  as  we  advanced ;  and 
we  were  soon  inclosed  in  the  main  body  of  them, 
and  could  no  longer  hold  our  course.  The  biuff  of 
the  port  bow  struck  a  floe,  luckily  not  large  enough 
to  do  us  damage ;  the  brig  veered  around  and  brought 
up  with  her  waist  against  a  larger  mass,  which  slip 
ped  along  her  side  and  dropped  us  around  broadside 
to  the  wind.  Thus  we  rode,  powerless  to  move  but 
as  the  elements  listed.  That  we  were  not  ground 
to  pieces  seemed  a  wonder.  Thump  followed  thump 
in  quick  succession  ;  bows,  quarter,  waist,  stem,  and 
stern  successively  received  the  shocks  as  the  brig 
rose  and  fell  and  plunged  with  the  waves.  Soon 
we  had  run  this  gauntlet,  and  then  came  the  hardest 
trial  of  all:  we  were  rushing  upon  the  solid  floe, 
which  was  firm  as  a  rock.  A  huge  wave  lifted  us 
high  in  the  air,  and,  as  it  slipped  from  under  the 
brig,  down  went  her  forefoot  upon  the  ice.  The 
shock  was  terrible  ;  the  masts  creaked  and  shivered  ; 
every  person  on  board  expected  to  see  them  fly  in 
splinters,  but  they  held  firm.  Next  moment  the 
stern  fell  off',  and  we  lay  grinding  against  the  floe. 
Then  a  large  field  bore  down  upon  us  from  the 
windward,  and  the  brig  was  squeezed  out  of  the 
water.  The  crew,  powerless  to  help  her,  sprang 
upon  the  ice;  and  there  she  lay  high  and  dry  for 
several  hours.  At  length  the  storm  abated,  the  ice 
relaxed,  and  the  Advance  settled  down  into  her 
proper  element.  A  lead  having  opened  toward  the 
shore,  a  warp  was  run  out,  and  we  first  hauled 
under  the  lee  of  a  grounded  berg,  then  to  the  land. 
Worn  out  with  constant  work,  we  made  fast  to 


INTRODUCTORY.  5 

the  land  ice,  the  watch  was  set,  anoj  all  hands 
turned  in. 

The  prospect  of  advancing  farther  north  with  the 
brig  was  now  very  unpromising.  Dr.  Kane  had 
hoped  to  reach  with  her  at  least  latitude  80°  ;  and 
here  we  were  completely  beset  at  78°  40'.  All  to 
the  north  was  one  unbroken  ice-field,  crossed  by  no 
crack,  and  with  not  "a  drop  of  water  visible,  except 
here  and  there  a  puddle  of  melted  snow. 

Along1  the  land,  which  trended  eastward,  opened 
a  narrow  lead,  from  twenty  to  sixty  feet  in  width ; 
which,  although  clogged  with  loose,  ragged  pieces, 
was,  nevertheless,  wide  enough  to  admit  the  vessel. 
Into  this  lead  she  was  hauled;  and  inch  by  inch,  and 
foot  by  foot  we  tracked  and  warped  her  along  the 
frozen  wall  of  the  land-ice,  for  the  next  five  days, 
making  thus  about  six  miles.  This  was  along-the 
southern  shore  of  a  deep  bay,  afterwards  called  Rens- 
selaer.  Being  close  under  the  land,  we  grounded  at 
nearly  every  low  tide.  • 

The  head  of  the  bay  was  reached  on  the  27th. 
Finding  here  the  ice  much  more  broken,  we  hauled 
over  to  the  opposite  shore,  and  then  commenced 
again  to  track ;  but  the  lead  was  soon  found  to  be 
completely  closed.  The  winter  was  now  fast  ap 
proaching  ;  the  young  ice  was  forming  rapidly ;  and 
there  was  nothing  left  for  us  but  to  retreat  and  seek 
a  harbor. 

Dr.  Kane,  with  a  boat's  crew  of  six  men,  put  off 
up  the  coast  to  inspect  the  ice ;  the  remainder  of  us 
meanwhile  working  to  get  the  Advance  to  a  place 
of  safety.  The  sailing-master,  Mr.  Wilson,  being 
sick,  and  the  two  mates  having  accompanied  Dr. 
i* 


6  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

Kane,  the  superintendence  of  the  work  devolved 
upon  Mr.  Ohlsen,  who  was  ordered  to  get  the  ves 
sel  clear  of  the  ice,  and  then  to  await  the  return  of 
our  chief. 

We  were  four  days  in  making  two  miles.  The 
"  bay  ice "  was,  in  places,  two  inches  thick ;  and, 
with  all  the  power  we  could  apply  with  capstan  and 
windlass,  we  could  not  force  the  vessel  forward 
without  first  breaking  a  track  with  poles  and  hand 
spikes. 

The  islands  at  the  head  of  the  bay  were  at  length 
reached ;  but  the  ice  was  there  found  locked  against 
the  outer  point  of  Fern  Rock,  above  which  we  had 
passed  on  our  way  in  ;  and  it  was  not  until  the  even 
ing  of  the  6th  of  September  that  it  became  possible  to 
execute  further  the  commander's  instructions.  Then 
a  gale  set  in  from  the  southeast,  and  in  a  few  hours 
the  ice  was  driven  nearly  out  of  sight.  Preparations 
were  at  once  commenced  for  getting  under  weigh. 
Tlae  watch  was  called ;  the  click,  click,  of  the  cap 
stan  was  again  heard;  the  men  were  sent  aloft  to 
shake  out  the  foresail.  All  was  ready,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  we  should  have  been  off.  Then  came  a  cry 
from  the  masthead  that  Dr.  Kane  and  his  party  were 
in  sight.  They  were  on  the  ice  a  mile  or  so  below 
Cape  Leiper.  Immediately  a  boat  put  off  for  them, 
and  in  a  couple  of  hours  they  were  aboard. 

This  journey  had  convinced  Dr.  Kane  that  it  was 
practicable  to  travel  over  the  ice  with  sledges,  and 
that  the  search  could  be  thus  continued  in  the  spring. 
Of  this  there  had  been  not  a  little  doubt  at  his  start 
ing.  Mr.  Petersen  had  given  it  as  his  decided  opin 
ion  that,  owing  to  the  roughness  of  the  ice,  nothing 


INTRODUCTORY.  7 

could  be  done  with  the  dogs ;  and  the  prospect  cer 
tainly  looked  no  more  promising  for  the  men. 

By  his  journey  up  the  coast,  Dr.  Kane  had  de 
cided  the  question  of  the  propriety  of  wintering,  even 
in  this  low  latitude.  On  the  following  morning, 
the  brig  was  hauled  between  the  islands,  and  was 
moored  fast.'  The  temperature  fell  to  19°.  The  gale 
died  away,  allowing  the  old  floes  to  drift  back  about 
us;  the  young  ice  cemented  them  together;  and, 
by  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  September,  we  could 
walk  ashore.  The  Advance  was  firmly  locked  up.1 

Now  commenced  busy  preparations  for  meeting 
the  four  months  of  the  winter  which  was  closing 
upon  us.  The  hold  of  the  vessel  was  unstowed,  and 
the  stores  were  carried  on  sleds  over  the  ice,  about 
thirty  yards,  to  Butler  Island,  and  there  deposited  in 
a  temporary  house.  The  upper  deck  was  covered  in 
with  boards.  The  between-decks  were  bulkheaded 
at  about  twelve  feet  abaft  the  foremast;  the  cabin 
and  hold  were  united  in  one  long  room,  and  this 
was  decked  and  bunked  all  around.  The  little  stove 
was  retained  in  the  cabin;  the  cook-stove  was  placed 
amidships;  the  men  moved  aft  from  the  forecastle  ; 
the  nautical  day  was  changed  to  the  old-fashioned 
day  which  commences  at  midnight;  and,  with  the 
Advance  thus  virtually  converted  into  a  house,  both 
as  concerned  herself  and  her  domestic  arrangements, 
we  entered  upon  the  winter. 

Meanwhile  the  work  of  exploration  went  on.  The 
anchor  had  scarcely  been  dropped  before  Mr.  Wilson 
and  myself  were  sent  to  the  interior,  with  the  view, 
mainly,  of  determining  how  far  we  might  rely  upon 
the  land  to  supply  us  with  game, 2 


8  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

We  left  the  vessel  on  the  8th  of  September,  carry 
ing  upon  our  backs  our  slender  equipment.  Our 
only  companion  was  the  Greenlander,  Hans  Hen- 
drich,  a  fine  little  fellow  who  joined  us  at  Lichtenfels, 
South  .Greenland ;  and  who,  after  serving  faithfully 
the  expedition  for  nearly  two  years,  finally  fell  ir^ 
love  with  a  pair  of  black  eyes  and  a  fat  face,  and 
left  us  to  live  with  the  wild  Esquimaux. 

Our  route  lay,  for  two  days,  over  an  uneven  prim 
itive  country,  from  which  we  emerged  upon  a  ta 
ble-land  of  weather-worn  greenstone.  Over  this  we 
travelled  for  about  fifteen  miles,  when  we  came  again 
upon  the  porphyritic  and  gneissoid  rocks;  and,  on 
the  fourth  day,  after  a  laborious  travel,  we  descended 
into  a  deep  broad  valley,  which  proved  to  be  the  bed 
of  a  river.  This  was  almost  dry,  but  it  bore  upon 
its  banks  evidences  of  having  recently  been  a  deep 
and  rapid  torrent,  which,  as  it  rolled  and  tumbled 
over  the  rocks,  was  fed,  through  the  many  gorges 
which  flanked  it,  by  the  melting  snow  from  the 
mountain  sides.  Here  we  spread  our  buffalo  skins 
upon  the  stones,  and  rested  for  the  morrow's  work. 

The  morrow  found  our  poor  Esquimau  unable 
to  travel ;  and  we  were  in  not  much  better  condition. 
Our  route  had  lain  over  a  very  uneven  country. 
The  snow  of  the  previous  winter  having  all  disap 
peared,  we  clambered  over  the  naked  rocks;  and 
as  each  of  us  carried  upon  his  shoulders  a  burden 
of  about  thirty  pounds'  weight,  this  was  no  slight 
task. 

On  the  second  day  there  was  a  light  fall  of  snow 
which  rendered  the  rocks  slippery  and  our  footing 
insecure,  and  added  greatly  to  the  difficulties  of  the 


INTRODUCTORY. 

journey.  No  evidences  of  life  were  seen,  save  a 
solitary  rabbit  and  the  footmarks  of  a  fox. 

Before  us  the  country  was  no  less  rugged  than 
that  which  we  had  just  traversed,  and  we  resolved 
to  leave  behind  us,  in  charge  of  Hans,  all  our  trav 
elling  gear;  and  each  taking  in  his  pocket  a  lump 
of  pemmican  and  an  ounce  or  so  of  coffee,  we 
started,  at  noon  of  the  fifth  day,  up  the  bank  of  the 
river,  resolved  if  possible  to  trace  it  to  its  source. 

As  we  proceeded  the  prospect  became  more  en 
livening.  The  fall  of  snow  had  been  mainly  con 
fined  to  the  coast,  and  the  bare  rocks,  over  which  we 
made  our  way  by  springing  from  one  boulder  to 
another,  gave  us  firmer  foothold.  The  hills  became 
more  even  in  their  outline;  and  between  them  rested 
picturesque  valleys,  sloping  down  to  the  river  banks, 
which  were  often  broad  and  clothed  with  verdure. 
Patches  of  andromeda,  —  arctic  type  of  Scotia's 
heather,  —  its  purple  blossoms  not  yet  nipped  by  the 
winter  frosts,  —  gave  here  and  there  a  carpet  to  the 
feet,  and  furnished  us  fuel  for  the  cooking  of  a  meal. 
Beds  of  green  moss  and  turf,  whose  roots  supplied 
pabulum  to  some  festucine  grasses,  on  which  were 
browsing  little  herds  of  reindeer,  gave  to  the  scene 
an  air  of  enchantment,  and  brought  to  recollection 
the  verdure  of  my  native  Chester.  These  mead 
ows  often  tempted  us  from  our  course,  sometimes  to 
catch  a  closer  glimpse  of  the  stunted  flowers,  some 
times  to  steal  a  shot  at  the  deer.  In  the  former 
purpose  we  were  always  amply  successful,  but  in 
the  latter  we  were  frustrated  by  the  timidity  of  the 
animals,  who  could  not,  with  all  our  arts,  be  sur 
prised,  nor  approached  within  rifle  shot.  The  old 


10  'AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

buck  who  stood  guard  over  the  herd,  gave  the  alarm 
by  a  significant  snort;  and,  angry  at  being  disturbed, 
led  away  his  charge,  the  whole  troop  bounding  off 
to  the  mountains.  Thence  looking  down  over  the 
clifl's,  they  were  seen  watching  us  until  they  were 
lost  among  the  rocks,  from  which,  in  the  distance, 
they  could  not  be  distinguished.  The  vegetation 
of  the  marshes  and  meadow-lands  was  richer  than 
anything  I  had  seen  north  of  Melville  Bay.  Dwarf 
willows,  —  representatives  of  the  beautiful  shade- 
trees  of  our  lawns  and  river  banks,  —  with  branches 
which  trailed  on  the  ground  as  thin  as  one's  little 
finger,  and  a  foot  long,  (the  whole  tree  being  of 
about  the  circumference  of  a  large  dinner  plate,) 
were,  in  places,  quite  abundant. 

At  length  we  emerged  upon  a  broad  plain  or  val 
ley,  wider  than  any  we  had  yet  seen,  in  the  heart  of 
which  reposed  a  lake  about  two  miles  in  length  by 
half  a  mile  in  width,  over  the  transparent,  glassy 
surface  of  which  we  walked.  On  either  side  of  us 
rose  rugged  bluffs,  that  stretched  off  into  long  lines 
of  hills,  culminating  in  series  in  a  broad-topped 
mountain  ridge,  which,  running  away  to  right  and 
left,  was  cut  by  a  gap  several  miles  wide  that  opened 
directly  before  us.  Immediately  in  front  was  a  low 
hill,  around  the  base  of  which  flowed  on  either  side 
the  branches  of  the  stream  which  we  had  followed. 
Leaving  the  bed  of  the  river  just  above  the  lake,  we 
ascended  to  the  top  of  this  hillock;  and  here  a  sight 
burst  upon  us,  grand  and  imposing  beyond  any 
power  of  mine  adequately  to  describe.  From  the 
rocky  bed,  only  a  few  miles  in  advance,  a  sloping 
wall  of  pure  whiteness  rose  to  a  broad  level  plain 


INTRODUCTORY.  11 

of  ice,  which,  apparently  boundless,  stretched  away 
toward  the  unknown  east.  It  was  the  great  mer  de 
glace  of  the  arctic  continent. 

At  any  subsequent  period  of  the  cruise  this  sight 
would  have  less  impressed  me  ;  but  I  had  never,  ex 
cept  in  the  distance,  seen  a  glacier.  Here  before  us 
v^as?  in  reality,  the  counterpart  of  the  river-systems 
of  other  lands.  From  behind  the  granite  hills  the 
congealed  drainings  of  the  interior  water-sheds,  the 
atmospheric  precipitations  of  ages,  were  moving 
as  a  solid  though  plastic  mass,  down  through 
every  gap  in  the  mountains,  swallowing  up  the 
rocks,  tilling  the  valleys,  submerging  the  hijls  :  an 
onward,  irresistible,  crystal  tide,  swelling  to  the 
ocean.  Cutting  the  surface  were  many  vertical  cre 
vasses,  or  gutters,  some  of  great  depth,  which  had 
drained  oil'  the  melted  snow. 

It  was  midnight  when  we  made  our  approach. 
The  sun  was  several  degrees  beneath  the  horizon, 
and  afforded  us  a  faint  twilight.  Stars  of  the  sec 
ond  magnitude  were  dimly  visible  in  the  northern 
heavens.  When  we  were  within  about  half  a  mile 
of  the  icy  wall,  a  brilliant  meteor  fell  before  us,  and 
by  its  reflection  upon  the  glassy  surface  beneath, 
greatly  heightened  the  effect  of  the  scene  ;  while 
loud  reports,  like  distant  thunder  or  the  booming  of 
artillery,  broke  at  intervals  from  the  heart  of  the 
frozen  sea. 

Upon  closer  inspection  we  found  the  face  of  the 
glacier  to  ascend  at  an  angle  of  from  30°  to  35°.  At 
its  base  lay  a  high  snow-bank,  up  which  we  clam 
bered  about  sixty  feet;  but  beyond  this  the  ice  was 
BO  smooth  as  to  defy  our  efforts.  The  mountains, 


12  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

which  stood  like  giant  gateposts  on  either  side,  were 
overlapped  and  partially  submerged  by  the  glacier. 
From  the  face  of  this  a  multitude  of  little  rivulets 
ran  down  the  gutters  already  mentioned,  or  gurgled 
from  beneath  the  ice ;  and  formed,  on  the  level  lands 
below,  a  sort  of  marsh,  not  twenty  yards  from  the  icy 
wall.  Here  grew,  in  strange  contrast,  beds  of  green 
moss;  and  in  these,  tufts  of  dwarf  willows  were 
twining  their  tiny  arms  and  rootlets  about  the  fee*- 
bier  flower  growths  ;  and  there,  clustered  together, 
crouched  among  the  grass,  and  sheltered  by  the 
leaves,  and  feeding  on  the  bed  of  lichens,  I  found  a 
white-blossomed  draba  which  would  have  needed 
only  a  lady's  thimble  for  a  flower-pot,  and  a  white 
chickweed.  Dotting  the  few  feet  of  green  around 
me  were  seen  the  yellow  blossoms  of  the  more  hardy 
poppy,  the  purple  potentilla,  and  the  white,  purple, 
and  yellow  saxifrages. 

This  little  oasis  was  literally  imbedded  in  ice. 
The  water  which  had  flowed  through  it  had  frozen 
in  the  holes,  and  spread  itself  out  in  a  crystal  sheet 
upon  the  rocks  and  stones  around.  A  few  speci 
mens  of  the  tiny  blossoms  were  laid  in  my  note 
book,  a  sprig  of  heather  and  a  saxifrage  were  stuck 
in  my  button  hole,  and  with  these  souvenirs  we  left 
this  garden  spot,  which  the  glacier  was  soon  to 
cover  forever  from  human  eyes.3 

Returning  upon  our  track,  we  arrived  at  the  camp 
after  an  absence  of  twenty-three  hours,  having  trav 
elled,  during  that  time,  between  fifty  and  sixty  miles. 
After  halting  here  until  midnight,  we  set  out  for  the 
vessel,  which  was  reached  in  another  march. 

We  found  the  preparations  for  winter  progressing 


INTRODUCTORY.  13 

rapidly.  Before  they  were  completed,  and  as  soon 
as  the  ice  was  sufficiently  solid  to  insure  the  safety 
of  travel,  Messrs.  Me  Gary  and  Bonsall,  with  five 
men,  were  dispatched  with  a  sledge-load  of  stores, 
part  of  which  they  were  to  place  on  the  land,  as  far 
north  as  they  could  reach,  the  remainder  at  available 
points  along  the  Greenland  coast.  These  deposits 
were  to  serve  as  supports  of  the  principal  opera 
tions,  which  were  to  follo\\  in  the  spring.  The 
party  carried  upon  the  sledge,  in  addition  to  their 
own  provisions  and  equipment,  about  four  hundred 
pounds  of  pemmican*  and  bread. 

Their  route  lay  up  the  hitherto  unsurveyed  coast 
of  Greenland,  to  the  northeastward  from  Rensselaer 
Harbor.  They  soon  found,  much  to  their  disap 
pointment,  that  the  ice  was  not  completely  fast, 
although  the  temperature  was  within  a  few  de 
grees  of  zero.  The  tide,  as  it  rose  and  fell  alter 
nately,  opened  and  closed  chasms,  or  rivers,  as  Bon 
sall  styled  them,  sometimes  fifty  yards  wide,  across 
which  the  party  were  compelled  in  several  cases  to 
transport  themselves  and  their  baggage  on  a  loose 
cake  of  ice,  —  an  insecure  though  cheap  substitute 
for  a  raft.  In  this  unusual  mode  of  navigation, 
they  were  once  well  drenched,  but  no  more  serious 
results  followed;  and  with  a  steadfast  determina 
tion  to  carry  out  their  instructions,  McGary  and 
Bonsall  led  on  their  men,  until  their  further  progress 

*  Pemmican  is  a  preparation  of  meat.  It  is  made  by  drying  thin  strips 
of  the  lean  portions  of  beef,  or  other  flesh,  either  in  the  sun,  or  by  a  slow 
artificial  heat,  such  as  that  of  a  malt-kiln;  and  then  chopping  it  finely 
and  mixing  it  with  an  equal  portion  of  melted  tallow.  One  pound  of  this 
preparation  is  equal  in  nutritive  effect  to  about  three  pounds  of  ordinary 
meat. 

3 


14  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY, 

was  arrested  by  a  great  glassy  wall,  a  huge  barri 
cade  of  ice,  from  three  to  five  hundred  feet  in 
height,  which  joined  the  land  ninety  miles  northeast 
of  Rensselaer  Bay,  and  stretched  north-by-east  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach.4 

This  cold  mass  (afterwards  named  Humboldt 
Glacier)  brought  the  temperature  down  below  zm> ; 
but  it  changed  the  course  of  the  party  only  fioiu 
northeast-by-east  to  north-by-east.  Parallel  with  its 
face,  and  within  two  miles -of  it,  1hey  struck  out  for 
the  land,  which  loomed  up  northward.  After  fifty- 
two  miles  of  hard  toil,  they  became  entangled  among 
bergs  and  hummocks,  through  which  their  heavily 
laden  sledge  could  not  be  forced.  They  were  thus 
compelled  to  put  back,  and  to  deposit  their  stores 
upon  the  land  which  they  had  left  a  few  days  be 
fore.  The  principal  depots  were  made  at  Capes 
Agassiz  and  Russell.  On  ths  16th  of  October,  the 
party  reached  4he  brig,  after  an  absence  of  twenty- 
six  days. 

A  few  days  afterward  I  added  a  light  load  to  the 
deplt  at  Cape  Russell;  and  with  this  journey  closed 
the  preparatory  operations  for  search.  We  were  not 
yet,  however,  quite  driven  within  doors.  Mr.  Sonn- 
tag  finished  the  observatory,  and  began  his  work  in 
it;  and  while  the  light  of  noonday  continued  bright 
enough  to  enable  me  to  read  the  markings  on  the 
vernier,  I  was  engaged,  with  Baker  for  assistant, 
upon  a  topographical  sextant-survey  of  Rensseluer 
Harbor  and  the  region  round  about.  The  thermorn 
eter  being  at  from  ten  to  twenty  degrees  below 
zero,  1  had  of  course  a  fine  opportunity  to  prove  the 
scorching  power  of  frosty  metal.  Mr.  Bonsall  and 


INTRODUCTORY.  15 

Mr.  Goodfellow,  Mr.  Petersen  and  Hans,  Morton 
and  Riley,  tried  successively  to  reach  the  Esquimaux, 
who  were  supposed  to  live  neas  the  mouth  of  the 
strait;  and  Dr.  Kane,  in  the  intervals  of  his  numer 
ous  occupations  as  commander,  found  time  for  train 
ing  and  exercising,  for  future  service,  the  dogs,  on 
which  so  much  must  thereafter  depend. 

The  darkness  at  length  cut  short  these  out-door 
operations,  and  forced  us  within  the  vessel,  where 
we  were  not  idle.  Our  small  force  had  been  reduced 
by  sickness,  and  the  deck  officers  and  effective  men 
had  enough  of  ship's  duty  to  occupy  several  hours  of 
each  day.  Mr.  Soimtag  had  still  his  observatory  to 
look  after,  and  he  was  assisted  there  alternately  by 
the  commander,  Bonsall,  and  myself;  and  on  board, 
during  "office-hours,"  he  was  engaged  upon  his 
charts  and  computations.  For  myself,  I  had  no 
roomjto  complain  of  want  of  occupation.  My, duties 
were  multifarious  and  endless.  They  included  the 
functions  of  doctor,  hospital  steward,  naturalist,  and 
captain's  clerk.  When  the  winter  shut  us  in,  I  had 
a  hospital  to  look  after;  more  than  half  a  hundred 
birds,  hares,  and  foxes  to  skin  ;  charts  to  project,  and 
reports  of  journeys  to  draw  up  ;  the  official  records, 
log-book,  and  meteorological  tables  of  two  months 
to  copy,  beside  the  current  clays'  entries;  and  withal, 
now  and  then,  from  four  to  eight  hours'  watch  to 
keep  per  diem,  as  one  officer  after  another  was  tem 
porarily  on  the  sick-list. 

There  was  no  idling  on  board  the  Advance  dur 
ing  the  early  part  of  the  winter ;  and  after  the 
"  Christmas  holidays  "  were  over,  new  occupation 
was  found  in  preparing  for  the  spring  journeys. 


16  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

The  carpenter  was  making  and  mending  sleds 
the  tinkers  were  manufacturing  cooking  apparatus  * 
,some  of  the  men  were  sewing  tents;  others  fur-bags 
to  sleep  in ;  others  boots,  stockings,  mittens,  and  all 
the  et  ceteras  of  personal  outfit.  Thus,  as  the  win 
ter  dragged  its  slow  length  along,  we  found,  in  con 
stant  occupation,  the  means  of  rendering  the  dreari 
ness  of  our  imprisonment  more  endurable 

The  sun  came  to  us  again  on  the  first  of  March, 
after  an  absence  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  days; 
and  once  more  we  were  bathing  in  an  atmosphere  of 
continual  sunlight.  The  season  was,  however,  back 
ward,  and  this  month  was  the  coldest  of  the  year. 

Meanwhile  the  preparations  for  field-work  were 
completed,  and  on  the  19th  of  the  month  the  first 
party  started,  with  the  first  officer.  This,  like 
the  fall  party  of  McGary  and  Bonsall,  was  to 
carry  out  provisions,  to  be  deposited  for  the  use 
of  the  main  exploring  and  searching  party,  which 
was  to  follow  under  the  immediate  command  of 
Dr.  Kane. 

The  direction  given  was  to  pursue  a  due  north 
course  ;  and  upon  reaching  the  opposite  side  of  the 
channel  to  deposit  there  the  provisions  and  return  ; 
but  unexpected  obstacles  presented  themselves  in 
the  shape  of  heavy  hummocks  and  deep  snow-drifts. 
The  ice  in  the  centre  of  the  strait  had,  during  the 
latter  part  of  the  previous  summer,  been  broken  up  ; 
and  drifting  masses,  crowding  upon  each  other,  had 
been  piled  in  confused  ridges,  and  in  this  state  had 
been  frozen  together.  Thus  the  whole  surface  of 
the  sea  was  covered ;  and  Brooks  and  his  party  foi 
several  days,  picked  a  tortuous  passage  through,  01 


INTRODUCTORY.  ^  17 

mounted  over,  heavy  piles  of  crushed  ice,  varying  in 
height  from  five  to  fifty  feet.  At  length  the  severity 
of  the  labor  broke  down  the  men  ;  the  thermometer 
fell  to  55°  below  zero,  and  four  of  the  party,  includ 
ing  the  leader,  were  frozen  and  rendered  helpless. 
Leaving  Hickey  to  look  after  these,  Ohlsen,  Peter- 
sen,  and  Sonntag  returned  to  the  ship,  forty-five 
miles  distant,  which  they  reached  in  thirteen  hours. 
Immediately  a  relief  party  was  organized  by  Dr. 
Kane,  and  was  guided  by  Ohlsen  into  the  wilderness 
of  ice  in  search  of  his  companions,  whom  he  had 
great  reason  to  fear  were  lost  forever.  They  were, 
however,  found  and  brought  back  upon  the  sledge. 
—  For  a  minute  history  of  this  heroic  rescue  I  must 
refer  the  reader  to  the  narrative  of  Dr.  Kane.5 

Soon  after  the  return  of  this  party,  the  brig  was 
visited  by  a  tribe  of  wild  Esquimaux,  from  whom  we 
obtained  four  dogs,  in  exchange  for  knives,  needles, 
and  pieces  of  wood  and  iron.  These  dogs,  with  the 
three  *  already  in  our  possession,  made  up  a  full 
team. 

The  disastrous  effort  just  made  had  broken  down 
the  efficiency  of  the  ship's  company  ;  and  it  was 
not  until  late  in  April  that  a  sufficient  number  of 
men  had  recovered  to  make  another  attempt  possi 
ble.  . 

On  the  26th  Mr.  McGary  started  with  the  lead 
ing  sledge,  and  on  the  next  day  Dr.  Kane  followed 
with  Godfrey  and  the  dogs.  This  was  to  have  been 
the  crowning  expedition  of  the  campaign  ;  but  the 

*  The  four  fine  teams,  obtained  by  Dr.  Kane  at  Upernavik  and  Karsuk, 
had  all,  except  the  three  dogs  above  mentioned,  died  during  the  wiutcrf 
chiefly  from  the  effect  of  salted  food. 
2* 


18  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

same  causes  again  brought  defeat.  The  heavy  hum 
mocks  and  deep  drifts  made  the  travelling  so  labo 
rious,  that  one  by  one  the  men  broke  down,  and 
symptoms  of  scurvy  added  to  the  complication  of 
troubles.  At  length  the  commander,  an  invalid  at 
starting,  was  prostrated  by  the  severity  of  his  la 
bors  ;  he  fell  into  frequent  fainting  fits,  and  finally 
became  helpless.  The  party  were  compelled  to  put 
back;  and  by  forced  marches  they  brought  him  on 
board.  He  was  carried  up  the  ship's  side  insensible. 
The  old  enemy,  scurvy,  had  again  seized  upon  him, 
and  its  attack  was  aggravated  by  typhoid  symptoms 
and  dropsical  effusion.  I  may  truly  say  that  I  lost 
all  expectation  of  seeing  him  recover,  or  even  rally, 
from  his  severe  prostration  ;  but,  with  a  wonderful 
reactive  power,  he  began,  in  a  few  hours,  to  grow 
better ;  and  he  continued  to  improve  rapidly  from 
day  to  day.6 

The  crew  were  at  this  time  in  a  sorry  plight.  In 
deed,  both  officers  and  men  were  all,  more  or  less, 
broken.  Several  were  down  with  frostbite,  snow- 
blindness,  fatigue,  or  scurvy;  and  only  six  of  the 
whole  number  were  fit  for  service.  The  ship  was  a 
hospital. 

It  happened,  fortunately,  that  I  had  not  yet  been 
so  exposed  as  to  impair  my  health.  I  was  conse 
quently  able  to  attend  to  all  the  wants  of  the  sick, 
and  to  perform  other  duties. 

By  the  16th  of  May  Dr.  Kane  was  well  enough  to 
move  about,  and,  with  the  aid  of  our  excellent  stew 
ard,  to  administer  to  the  invalid  crew.  This  left  me 
more  at  liberty,  and  on  the  18th,  accompanied  by 
Godfrey,  I  set  out  to  make  another  attempt  to  cross 


INTRODUCTORY.  19 

the  wilderness  of  hummocks  to  the  opposite  coast. 
I  was  directed  to  follow  nearly  the  track  of  the 
first  party. 

I  give  our  simple  equipment.  Our  sledge  weighed 
twenty-two  pounds  ;  on  this  was  loa'ded  eighty 
pounds  of  pemmican,  and  ten  pounds  of  bread,  food 
for  ten  days,  for  men  and  dogs.  Eighteen  pounds 
more  of  weight  were  added  by  our  lamp  and  ceo  king 
apparatus,  with  lard  and  rope-yarn  for  fuel.  On  top 
of  these  articles  were  stowed  two  bags  of  reindeer 
skin,  each  weighing  eight  pounds,  the  use  of  which 
I  will  presently  describe  ;  and  over  the  whole  was 
spread  a  light  canvas  cover,  which  was  lashed  down 
compactly  to  the  sledge,  so  that  sledge, 'cargo,  arid 
all,  could  be  capsized  and  rolled  over  and  over,  as 
frequently  happened,  without  damage.  On  my  back 
were  slung  a  Sharpe's  rifle,  a  small  pocket-compass, 
and  a  sextant.  My  driver  carried  only  his  whip. 
The  dogs  were  lashed  to  the  sledge,  as  is  the 
fashion  of  the  Esquimaux,  each  by  a  separate  line 
eighteen  feet  in  length,  the  animals  therefore  run 
ning  side  by  side.  They  were  guided  entirely  by  the 
voice  and  the  whip.  If  the  driver  wished  to  go  to 
the  right,  he  struck  the  left-hand  dog,  or  let  the 
whip-lash  fall  upon  the  snow  at  his  side,  and  vice 
versa.  The  team  was  thus  easily  directed ;  and, 
but  that  the  dogs  were  continually  jumping  over 
each  other's  backs,  tangling  their  traces  into  inextri 
cable  knots,  they  would  have  been  as  conveniently 
managed  as  a  span  of  horses. 

Upon  encamping,  our  first  duty  was  to  unlash  the 
Bledge  and  to  unharness  and  feed  the  dogs  ;  our  sec 
ond,  was  to  light  the  lamp,  for  melting  snow,  and 


20  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

cooking  coffee  or  tea.  This  lamp  consisted  of  a 
sheet-iron  cylinder  closed  at  one  end,  a  foot  high 
and  eight  inches  in  diameter,  which  was  set  on  the 
ice.  In  this  was  placed  a  little  cup  of  lard,  and 
eome  pieces  of  rope-yarn  or  canvas,  which,  being 
lighted,  filled  the  cylinder  with  flame  ;  and  in  this 
extempore  chimney-place,  the  pot  was  set  to  mek 
snow  and  to  boil  the  water  thus  obtained.  Supper, 
of  bread  and  coffee,  and  cold  pemmican,  being  over, 
the  third  duty  was  to  prepare  for  sleeping.  If  a 
wind  was  blowing,  we  built  a  snow-house  to  shelter 
us  from  it;  but,  if  calm,  we  spread  out  upon  the 
ice  or  snow  the  reindeer  bags  which  have  been  al 
ready  described,  having  previously  secured  under 
them  the  harness,  and  everything  not  impenetrable 
by  the  tooth  of  an  Esquimau  dog.  These  wolfish 
fellows  will  eat  anything,  from  an  old  shoe  up  to 
one  of  their  crippled  comrades,  or  a  man ;  and 
could  they  get  a  chance,  would,  before  morning,  ef 
fectually  prevent  themselves  from  being  harnessed. 
These  several  occupations  over,  while  my  compan 
ion  smoked  his  pipe,  it  was  my  melancholy  task, 
with  cold  fingers,  to  jot  down  in  my  journal  the 
doings  of  the  day.  Then  we  went  to  bed,  by  crawl 
ing  feet  foremost  into  the  before-mentioned  sleeping- 
bags.  In  this  manner  one  may  rest  quite  securely, 
even  in  the  open  air,  if  the  temperature  be  not  very 
far  below  zero,  in  which  case  a  snow-hut  becomes 
necessary.  Such  a  hut,  if  well  packed  with  men, 
soon  becomes  quite  warm,  by  the  heat  radiated  from 
the  persons  of  the  occupants.  Although  with  plenty 
of  furs  one  may  generally  be  warm  enough  in  the 
open  air,  at  almost  any  temperature,  yet  I  am  com- 


INTRODUCTORY.  21 

pelled  to  say  that  a  sleeping-bag  is  no  very,  desira 
ble  place  in  which  to  spend  the  night ;  for,  if  you 
expose  your  head  you  run  great  risk  of  freezing 
that  most  sensitive  organ,  the  nose ;  and  if  you 
haul  your  head  within  doors,  or  close  up  the  mouth 
of  the  bag,  you  run  equally  great  risk  of  smother 
ing.  It  is  a  nice  operation,  and  one  requiring  some 
practice,  to  adjust  a  proper  mean  between  thesr, 
extremes. 

An  adequate  idea  of  the  rugged  track,  over  which 
we  travelled,  can  hardly  be  conveyed  by  a  mere  de 
scription.  One  moment  we  were  ascending  the 
slippery,  sloping  surface  of  a  huge  elevated  table  of 
ice  which  had  been  pressed  upward  ;  then  we  were 
sliding  down  another,  the  sledge  on  top  of  the 
dogs,  the  dogs  tangled  in  their  traces,  howling  pit- 
eously ;  men,  dogs,  and  sledge  in  wild  confusion, 
plunging  into  a  snow-drift,  or  against  a  cake  of  ice. 
Sometimes  we  were  halted  by  a  precipice  eight  or 
ten  feet  high,  up  which  we  were  obliged  to  clamber, 
lifting  the  sledge,  dogs,  and  cargo,  or  down  which 
we  had  to  leap,  the  sledge  burying  itself  head  fore 
most  in  the  deep  drift ;  at  other  times  we  picked  a 
tortuous  passage  among  the  lesser  masses,  often 
being  compelled  to  turn  back  to  seek  an  opening. 
Our  shelter  and  rest  were  invariably  obtained  in  a 
snow-hut  or  in  our  sleeping-bags  upon  the  ice. 

One  thing  the  reader  must  bear  in  mind  in  order 
to  get  a  picture  of  our  condition  at  this  time,  namely, 
that  we  had  constant  daylight.  The  sun  was  visible, 
during  all  the  four-and- twenty  hours,  successively  in 
the  north,  east,  south,  and  west ;  and  always  near 
the  horizon.  * 


22  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

This  journey  was  successful ;  but  it  would  not 
have  been  so  without  the  aid  of  the  dogs.  In  eight 
days  we  reached  the  coast  at  Cape  Frazer,  in  lati 
tude  79°  42';  but,  having  only  two  days'  provisions 
remaining,  it  was  impossible  to  proceed  much  further; 
and,  after  making  a  few  additional  miles  of  northing, 
and  planting  on  the  top  of  Cape  Frazer  a  little- flag 
mounted  on  a  whipstock,*  we  turned  down  the  coast 
and  I  connected  my  survey  with  the  English  explo 
rations  at  the  mouth  of  the  channel.  This  survey 
embraced  about  two  hundred  miles  of  the  eastern 
coast  of  the  land  which  now  bears  the  name  of  the 
chief  patron  of  the  expedition,  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell. 
It  is  the  most  northern  known  land  on  the  globe. 
Its  eastern  and  southern  limits  have  been  deter 
mined,  but  its  western  and  northern  are  yet  un 
known.  It  probably  extends  nearer  to  the  pole  than 
any  other  land.f 8 

•  I  had  been  attacked  on  the   second  day  of  this 


*  It  was  at  this  time  that  the  author  observed  the  harbor  at  Cnpe 
Frazer  as  a  suitable  place  for  the  head-quarters  of  an  expedition  for  polar 
discovery.  It  interests  him  to  think  that  his  little  flag  still  floats  in  the 
arctic  breezes,  awaiting  the  return  of  the  hand  which  placed  it  there. 
No  white  man  but  the  author  and  his  companion  has  ever  trodden  that 
land. 

t  It  may  serve  to  illustrate  to  the  reader  some  of  the  peculiarities 
of  journeys,  like  that  mentioned  in  the  text,  to  say,  that  on  our  ten 
days'  allowance  of  provision  we  travelled  twelve  days,  during  the  last 
two  of  which  myself  and  companion  were  without  food  of  any  kind. 
We  fed  our  team  with  the  lower  extremities  of  our  trousers,  which  we 
cut  for  the  purpose.  These  pieces,  with  an  extra  pair  of  boots,  wera 
dressed  with  slush,  the  remnant  of  the  fuel  of  our  lamp,  and  were  eaten 
withot  t  difficulty  by  the  dogs.  On  the  ninth  day,  to  enable  us  to  push 
forward  to  the  ship,  we  were  compelled  to  lighten  our  load  by  throwing 
away  our  sleeping-bags.  This  restricted  us  for  shelter  to  the  lee  of 
enow-banks,  with  the  he'p  of  such  warmth  as  the  sun  vouchsafed  to  us. 
During  the  last  forty  hours  we  travelled  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles. 


INTRODUCTORY.  23 

journey  with  snow-blindness,  which  did  not  leave 
me  during  my  absence;  and  upon  returning  to 
the  brig  I  was  so  blind  as  to  be  unable  to  get  on 
board  without  a  guide.  I  volunteered,  however, 
again  to  take  the  field;  but  the  commander,  with  a 
consideration  for  my  future  sight  which  I  appreciate 
now  better  than  I  did  then,  would  not  permit  me  to 
leave  the  ship.  The  next  duty,  therefore,  devolved 
upon  William  Morton,  the  steward,  who  was  the 
only  remaining  able-bodied  man  on  board  who  was 
sufficiently  instructed  to  conduct  even  the  most 
rude  survey.  After  having  been  trained  by  the  as 
tronomer,  Mr.  Sonntag,  in  the  use  of  the  sextant, 
Morton  left  the  ship  on  the  5th  of  June,  with  a  relief- 
party,  and  was  followed  by  Hans,  the  Esquimau, 
hunter,  on  the  10th,  with  the  dogs. 

In  view  of  the  fact  that  I  had,  in  proceeding  di 
rectly  north  from  Rensselaer  Harbor,  found  the  track 
to  be  almost  impassable,  by  reason  of  the  heavy  hum 
mocks,  Morton  was  directed  to  keep  upon  the  Green 
land  side  of  the  strait,  and  to  make  a  final  start  from 
the  cache  established  by  McGary  and  Bonsall  in 
October,  1853,  near  the  base  of  Humboldt  Glacier. 
This  spot  was  reached  on  the  15th  of  June  ;  and, 
separating  on  the  18th  from  the  relief-party  which 
had  accompanied  him  thus  far,  Morton  proceeded 
nearly  due  north.  This  course  took  him  eastward 
of  the  chief  line  of  the  drift  of  the  channel ;  and  he 
found  therefore  a  smoother  track  than  I  had  previ 
ously  encountered  further  westward.  On  the  2 1st, 
he  reached  the  mouth  of  a  new  channel,  (to  which 
the  name  of  Hon.  John  P.  Kennedy  has  been  given.) 
extending  northward  from  Smith  Strait;  and  at 


24  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

about  ten  miles  from  the  eastern  shore  he  came  sud 
denly  upon  open  water.  Tracing  the  margin  of  this 
water  eastward  to  the  land,  he  mounted  to  the  land- 
ice,  and  travelling  thence  northward,  having  open 
water  continually  upon  his  left,  he  reached,  on  the 
24th,  his  extreme  latitude,  about  fifty  miles  up  the 
channel.  Finding  it  impossible  to  proceed  further, 
he  ascended  to  the  top  of  a  bluff,  four  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  in  height,  and  thence  looked  out  to  the 
northward  upon  a  boundless,  iceless  sea.  Retracing 
his  steps  he  reached  the  brig  on  the  10th  of  July. 

This  journey  was  the  most  important  one  of  the 
expedition,  and  it  was  attended  with  more  than  the 
usual  share  of  difficulties  and  dangers  peculiar  to 
ice-travel ;  all  of  which  were  overcome  with  manly 
energy  and  perseverance. 

The  finding  of  open  water  northward  of  the  ice- 
belt  of  Smith  Strait,  is  the  great  discovery  of  the 
cruise;  and  the  observations  made  in  connection 
with  it,  show  the  extension  of  this  open  water  far 
northward  beyond  the  line  of  vision  ;  thus  indicat 
ing  the  existence  of  an  iceless  area  at  the  centre  of 
the  Arctic  Ocean.9 

The  return  of  Morton  closed  the  search.  Nothing 
more  could  be  done  or  attempted  at  this  late  period 
of  the  summer.  The  ice  was  breaking  up,  was  al 
ready  crossed. by  numerous  cracks,  and  was  covered 
with  sludge.  Travelling  thus  became  not  only  diffi 
cult  and  dangerous,  but  for  any  considerable  distance 
over  the  ice-fields  quite  impossible. 

Our  commander,  after  feelingly  thanking  his  of 
ficers  and  crew  for  the  promptness  and  energy  with 
which  they  had  seconded  his  efforts,  announced  ^o 


INTRODUCTORY.  25 

as  that  the  objects  of  the  cruise  had  been  attained 
as  far  as  lay  within  our  power.  Henceforth  our 
thoughts  and  labors  would  be  directed  homeward  ; 
and  when  the  little  prayer,  with  which  he  opened  our 
simple  meal,  was  changed  from  "  Lord,  accept  our 
gratitude,  and  bless  our  undertaking,"  to  "  Lord,  ac 
cept  our  gratitude,  and  restore  us  to  our  homes," 
every  heart  manifested  the  quickening  impulses  of  a 
new  inspiration. 

The  season,  however,  showed  evident  signs  of 
backwardness.  The  open  water  to  the  south  was 
yet  more  than  thirty  miles  distant.  Our  situation 
was  critical. 

In  order  the  better  to  insure  our  escape,  Dr.  Kane 
gallantly  proposed  to  lead  a  party  to  Beechy  Island, 
to  apprise  the  English,  there  harbored,  of  our  condi 
tion.  It  was  known  to  us  that  the  squadron  of  Sir 
Edward  Belcher,  or  at  least  a  part  of  it,  would  return 
home  that  fall,  as  soon  as  liberated  from  the  ice  ;  and 
in  case  our  brig  should  remain  locked  up,  we  felt 
no  doubt  that  he  would  come  two  hundred  miles 
out  of  his  way,  to  render  us  whatever  aid  we  might 
require. 

The  boat  "Forlorn-Hope"  was  once  more  refit 
ted,  and  was  carried  on  a  sledge  down  to  the  open 
water,  which  by  this  time  had  advanced  to  Esquimau 
Point.  Here  the  boat  was  launched,  and,  with  five 
as  brave  fellows  as  ever  pulled  an  oar,  Dr.  Kane 
started. 

It  was  the  sixth  of  August  before  we  saw  them 
again.  After  an  absence  of  almost  three  weeks, 
they  brought  back  only  a  record  of  hard  labor  and 
sad  disappointment.  An  unexpected  obstacle  met 


26  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

them  in  the  "  North  Water."  A  heavy  "  pack " 
stretched  from  shore  to  shore,  across  from  Jones' 
to  Whale  Sound.  After  repeated  efforts  to  bore 
through  this  barrier,  skirting  it  from  coast  to  coast 
in  the  interval,  they  ran  short  of  provisions,  and 
were  forced  to  put  back.  They  brought  their  boat 
through  Force  Bay,  and  along  the  land  lead  to 
within  six  miles  of  the  ship. 

This  at  least  was  good  news.  The  open  water 
had  advanced  rapidly,  and  had  thus  come  up  as  far 
as,  during  the  previous  season  it  had  reached  at  a 
period  two  weeks  later.  Every  one  seemed  to  feel 
confident  that  the  brig  would  be  liberated. 

With  the  aid  of  gunpowder  and  handspikes,  the 
vessel  was  loosened  in  her  cradle,  and  was  once  more 
afloat.  She  was  then  warped,  inside  of  the  islands, 
down  to  Fox-trap  Point,  half  a  mile  from  our  old 
quarters.  Between  this  point  and  the  Six-mile 
Ravine,  the  ice  was  fast,  and  we  lay  day  after  day 
in  anxious  suspense.  Parties  were  going  to  and 
fro  continually.  All  the  reports  showed  that  the 
open  water  did  not  advance.  It  had  corne  up  to  the 
Six-mile  Ravine  as  if  to  permit  the  entrance  of  Dr. 
Kane ;  and  there  it  had  stopped.  The  commander 
made  a  final  journey  on  the  23d. 

Soon  after  his  return  the  ship's  company  were 
called  together,  and  the  results  of  his  expedition  were 
explained  to  them.  The  ice  in  the  centre  of  the 
channel  had  broken  up,  and  had  drifted  down  into 
Force  Bay.  Escape  for  the  brig  was  hopeless.  She 
could  not  be  liberated.  Either  of  two  courses  was 
now  open  to  us  —  to  remain  by  the  brig  and  try  in 
her  the  chances  of  a  second  winter,  or  to  seek  safety 
in  our  boats  to  the  south. 10 


INTRODUCTORY.  27 

That  everything  possible  had  been  done  towards 
the  attainment  of  the  objects  of  the  cruise,  was  not 
doubted  by  any  officer  or  man  of  the  brig's  company; 
and  certainly  the  character  of  the  commander  might, 
itself,  have  been  relied  upon  by  them,  as  a  sufficient 
guaranty  of  the  hopelessness  of  further  efforts,  when 
ho  had  renounced  them  as  fruitless.  The  question 
was,  simply,  when  we  should  set  out  homeward, — 
whether  we  should  pass  the  winter  in  the  vessel,  and 
start  for  Upernavik  in  the  spring ;  or  make  the  at 
tempt  without  further  delay.  In  either  case,  we 
must  abandon  all  thought,  either  of  further  explora 
tion,  or  of  preserving  the  brig.  The  recent  observa 
tions  of  Dr.  Kane,  had  been  such  as  to  prevent  his 
detaching  even  an  experimental  party  to  the  south, 
so  great  did  the  perils  of  a  journey  in  that  direction 
appear  to  him.  On  the  other  hand,  so  urgent  were 
our  necessities,  and  so  difficult  of  solution  the  prob 
lems  upon  which  depended  the  safety  of  the  persons 
under  him,  that,  although  his  natural  bias  as  com 
mander  inclined  him  to  stay  by  the  vessel  at  what 
ever  cost,  yet  he  rightly  considered  it  unjust,  now 
that  the  cruise  was  in  effect  ended,  to  interpose  the 
weight  of  his  official  authority  to  determine  the 
choice  of  time  for  our  setting  out.  He  called  to 
gether  officers  and  men,  and  submitted  the  whole 
subject  for  their  reflection,  giving  them  twenty- 
four  hours  for  deliberation.  In  case  any  of  them 
should  determine  to  go,  they  should  have,  said 
he,  "  the  best  outfit  I  can  give  them,  an  abun 
dant  share  of  our  remaining  stores,  and  my  good 
bye  blessing."  * 

*  Dr.  Kane  has  so  clearly  explained  our  circumstances  on  this  trying 


28  .    AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

In  addition  to  the  motiyes  which  influenced  the 
resolution  of  others,  there  were  some  which  had 
peculiar  relation  to  myself  as  medical  officer  of  the 
brig.  To  remain  in  her  during  the  coming  winter 
and  thus  keep  together  so  large  a  number  of  persons 
as  the  entire  company,  in  quarters  so  straitened, 
subjected  to  the  worst*  causes  of  disease,  without  the 
most  essential  means  either  of  prevention  or  cure, 
would,  I  felt  assured,  convert  the  brig  into  a  mere 
hospital,  where  the  most  depressing  influences  must 
be  engendered.  Originally  prepared  for  only  a  single 
winter,  we  had  now  completely  exhausted  our  fuel, 
except  750  pounds  of  coals,  after  the  consumption 
of  which  we  must  break  up  the  ship ;  and  our  re 
maining  provisions,  although  ample  in  quantity  for 
the  entire  company  through  the  winter,  consisted 

occasion,  that  the  reader  will  probably  be  pleased  to  have  his  principal 
statements  repeated  in  connection  with  the  text. 

"  '  August  18,  Friday.  —  Reduced  our  allowance  of  wood  to  six  pounds  a 
meal.  This,  among  eighteen  mouths,  is  one-third  of  a  pound  of  fuel  for 
each.  It  allows  us  coffee  twice  a  day,  and  soup  once.  Our  fare  besides 
this  is  cold  pork  boiled  in  quantity  and  eaten  as  required.  This  sort  of 
thing  works  badly;  but  I  must  save  coal  for  other  emergencies.  I  see 
'  darkness  ahead.' 

"  '  I  inspected  the  ice  again  to-day.  Bad !  bad !  —  I  must  look  another 
winter  in  the  face.  I  do  not  shrink  from  the  thought;  but,  while  we  have  a 
chance  ahead,  it  is  ray  first  duty  to  have  all  things  in  readiness  to  meet  it. 
It  is  horrible  —  yes,  that  is  the  word  —  to  look  forward  to  another  year  of 
disease  and  darkness  to  be  met  without  fresh  food  and  without  fuel.  I 
should  meet  it  with  more  tempered  sadness  if  I  had  no  comrades  to  think 
for  and  protect. 

"  '  August  20,  Sunday.  —  Rest  for  all  hands.  The  daily  prayer  is  no 
longer  '  Lord,  accept  our  gratitude  and  bless  our  undertaking,'  but  '  Lord, 
accept  our  gratitude  and  restore  us  to  our  homes.'  The  ice  show?  30 
change:  after  a  boat  and  foot  journey  around  the  entire  southeastern 
curve  of  the  bay,  no  signs ! '  (p.  343.) 

"  Everything  before  us  was  involved  in  gloomy  doubt.  Hopeful  us  I 
had  been,  it  was  impossible  not  to  feel  that  we  were  near  the  iluriax  ol 
fhe  expedition,  (p.  344.) 


INTRODUCTORY.  29 

mainly  of  salted  meat,  which,  from  its  effect  in  pro 
ducing  and  aggravating  scurvy,  as  shown  by  the  last 
winter's  sad  experience,  threatened  to  be  fatal  to 
men  in  our  condition.  If  one  half  of  the  company 
should  leave  the  vessel  to  try  the  southward  journey, 
there  would  be  a  sufficient  number  of  men  in  each 
party  to  form  a  complete  organization.  Those  re 
maining  with  the  vessel  would  have  the  professional 
skill  of  Dr.  Kane,  with  augmented  means  of  health 
and  comfort ;  and  the  causes  of  disease  would  be 
proportionally  diminished.  If  the  travelling  party 
should  perish  by  the  way,  the  deaths  would  probably 
not  be  more  numerous  than  if  all  should  continue 
together;  and  whatever  the  fate  of  that  party,  the 
persons  at  the  brig  would  be  in  improved  condition 
in  the  spring. 

"  And  now  came  the  question  of  a  second  winter:  how  to  look  our 
enemy  in  the  face,  and  how  to  meet  him.  Anything  was  better  than  in- 
actiou ;  and,  in  spite  of  the  uncertainty  which  yet  attended  our  plans,  a 
host  of  expedients  were  to  be  resorted  to,  and  much  Robinson  Crusoe 
labor  ahead.  Moss  was  to  be  gathered  for  eking  out  our  winter  fuel,  and 
willow-stems  and  stonecrops  and  sorrel,  as  antiscorbutics,  collected  and 
buried  in  the  snow.  But  while  all  these  were  in  progress  came  other  and 
graver  questions. 

"Some  of  my  party  had  entertained  the  idea  that  an  escape  to  the 
south  was  still  practicable;  and  this  opinion  was  supported  by  Mr.  Peter- 
sen,  our  Danish  interpreter,  who  had  accompanied  the  searching  expedi 
tion  of  Captain  Penny,  and  had  a  matured  experience  in  the  changes  of 
arctic  ice.  They  even  thought  that  the  safety  of  all  would  be  promoted 
by  a  withdrawal  from  the  brig. 

"  '  Aiigust  21,  Monday.  —  The  question  of  detaching  a  party  was  in  my 
mind  some  time  ago;  but  the  more  I  thought  it  over,  the  more  I  was  con 
vinced  that  it  would  be  neither  right  in  itself  nor  practically  safe,  for 
myself  personally,  it  is  a  simple  duty  of  honor  to  remain  by  the  brig:  I 
couM  not  think  of  leaving  her  till  I  had  proved  the  effect  of  the  later  tides; 
and  after  that,  as  I  have  known  all  along,  it  would  be  too  late.  —  Come 
what  may,  I  share  her  fortunes. 

" '  But  it  is  a  different  question  with  my  associates.  I  cannot  expect 
them  to  adopt  ay  impulses;  and  I  am  by  no  means  sure  that  I  ought  to 
3* 


80  .          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

It  was  remembered  by  all  of  us,  that  to  make  a 
southward  journey  in  boats  to  Upernavik  rather  than 
to  hazard  a  second  winter  in  the  ice,  had  previously 
been  repeatedly  discussed,  as  among  the  alternatives 
which  awaited  us;  and  it  was  a  subject  long  famil 
iar  to  all  of  us.  If,  after  the  completion  of  the  spring 
work,  the  season  should  be  backward,  it  had  been  re 
garded  as  one  of  our  recognized  means  of  safety,  to 
transport  boats  and  provisions  over  the  ice  to  open 
water,  and  early  in  September  to  push  southward. 
This  was  one  of  the  considerations  which  originally 
influenced  Dr.  Kane  in  favor  of  wintering  in  Rens- 
selaer  Bay. 

The  failure  of  his  late  expedition  to  Beechy  Island, 
and  the  prospect  of  an  early  winter,  (for  the  young 
ice  was  making  rapidly,)  led  him  to  the  conclusion 

hold  them  bound  by  my  conclusions.  Have  I  the  moral  right  ?  for,  as  to 
nautical  rules,  they  do  not  fit  the  circumstances:  among  the  whalers, 
when  a  ship  is  hopelessly  beset,  the  master's  authority  gives  way,  and  the 
crew  take  counsel  for  themselves  whether  to  go  or  stay  by  her.  My  p;irty 
is  subordinate  and  well-disposed;  but  if  the  restlessness  of  suffering  makes 
some  of  them  anxious  to  brave  the  chances,  they  may  certainly  plead  that 
a  second  winter  in  the  ice  is  no  part  of  the  cruise  they  bargained  for. 

*' '  But  what  presses  on  me  is  of  another  character.  I  cannot  disguise  it 
from  myself  that  we  are  wretchedly  prepared  for  another  winter  on  board. 
We  are  a  set  of  scurvy-riddled,  broken-down  men;  our  provisions  are 
sorely  reduced  in  quantity,  and  are  altogether  unsuited  to  our  condition. 
My  only  hope  of  maintaining  and  restoring  such  degree  of  health  among  us 
as  is  indispensable  to  our  escape  in  the  spring  has  been  and  must  be  in  a 
wholesome  elastic  tone  of  feeling  among  the  men:  a  reluctant,  brooding, 
disheartened  spirit  would  sweep  the  decks  like  a  pestilence.  I  fear  the 
bane  of  depressing  example. 

"'I  know  all  this  as  a  medical,man  and  an  officer*  and  I  feel  that  I 
might  be  wearing  awny  the  hearts  and  energies,  if  not  the  lives  of  all,  by 
forcing  those  who  were  reluctant  to  remain.  With  half  a  dozen  confiding 
resolute  men,  I  have  no  fears  of  ultimate  safety.  I  will  make  a  thorough 
inspection  of  the  ice  to-morrow,  and  decide  finally  the  prospect  of  our 
liberation. 

* '  August  23,  Wednesday.  —  The  brig  cannot  escape.    I  got  an  eligible 


INTRODUCTORY.  81 

which  he  announced  to  his  officers,  namely,  that  the 
"pack"  in  the  North  Water,  which  had  baffled  him, 
would  still  remain,  and  won  I'd  interpose  an  insur 
mountable  barrier  to  any  attempt  to  escape  to  the 
south.  This,  however,  he  submitted  to  our  judg 
ments  as  a  question  upon  which  each  of  us  was 
now  called  to  think  for  himself. 

On  the  other  hand,  it  was  believed  by  Mr.  Peter- 
sen,  whose  long  experience  of  the  movements  cf 
arctic  ice  entitled  his  opinion  to  great  respect,  that 
this  North  Water  "pack"  had  never  previously  been 
observed ;  that  it  was  merely  accidental ;  and  that, 
such  was  the  rapidity  of  ice  movements,  we  had 
every  reason  to  believe  that  it  would  entirely  dis 
appear  within  two  weeks.  Some  of  the  grounds 
of  this  judgment  will  be  manifested  in  subsequent 

position  with  my  sledge  to  review  the  floe?,  and  returned  this  morning  at 
two  o'clock.  There  is  no  possibility  of  our  release,  unless  by  some  ex 
treme  intervention  of  the  coming  tide?.  I  doubt  whether  a  boat  could  be 
forced  as  far  as  the  Southern  Water.  When  I  think  of  the  extraordinary 
way  in  which  the  ice  was  impacted  last  winter,  how  very  little  it  lias 
yielded  through  the  summer,  and  how  early  another  winter  is  making  its 
onset  upon  UP,  I  am  very  doubtful,  indeed,  whether  our  brig  can  get  away 
at  all.  It  would  be  inexpedient  to  attempt  leaving  her  now  in  boats; 
the  water-streams  closing,  the  pack  nearly  fast  again,  and  the  young  ice 
almost  impenetrable. 

" '  I  shall  call  the  officers  and  crew  together,  and  make  known  to  them 
very  fully  how  things  look,  and  what  hazards  must  attend  such  an  effort 
as  has  been  proposed  among  them.  They  shall  have  my  views  unequiv 
ocally, expressed.  I  will  then  give  twenty-four  hours  to  deliberate;  and 
at  the  end  of  that  time  all  who  determine  to  go  shall  say  so  in  writing, 
with  a  full  exposition  of  the  circumstances  of  the  case.  They  shah  have 
the  best  outfit  I  CMJI  give,  an  abundant  share  of  our  remaining  stores,  and 
my  good-bye  blessing. 

"  '  August  24,  Thursday.  —  At  noon  to-day  I  hod  all  hands  called,  and  ex 
plained  to  them  frankly  the  considerations  which  have  determined  me  to 
remain  where  we  are.  I  endeavored  to  show  them  that  an  escape  to  open 
warer  could  not  succeed,  and  that  the  effort  must  be  exceedingly  hazard 
ous:  I  alluded  to  our  duties  to  the  ship:  in  a  word,  I  advised  them  stren- 


82  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

chapters,  as  the  narrative  carries  us  to  the  region 
to  which  they  respectively  relate.  It  is  sufficient 
here  to  say,  that  I  adopted  entirely  Mr.  Petersen's 
conclusion,  and  thought  that  the  escape  which  we  all 
meditated  was  practicable  at  this  time. 

Again  :  if  a  party  should  succeed  in  the  attempt 
to  reach  Upernavik,  (the  distance  to  which  was  not 
greater  than  that  to  Beechy  Island,)  they  would  there 
pass  the  winter,  and  being  directly  in  the  line  of  the 
Baffin  Bay  whalers,  (which  go  annually  within  from 
one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  Smith 
Strait,)  they  could  give  information  of  the  condition 
of  the  Advance,  and  by  means  either  of  one  of  those 
whalers  or  of  one  of  the  small  sloops  known  to  be 
at  the  Danish  settlements,  communication  could  be 
reopened  with  Rensselaer  Harbor  in  the  spring. 

Perhaps  no  one,  who  has  never  been  placed  in 

uously  to  forego  the  project.  I  then  told  them  that  I  should  freely  givo 
my  permission  to  such  as  were  desirous  of  making  the  attempt,  but  that 
I  should  require  them  to  place  themselves  under  the  command  of  officers 
selected  by  them  before  setting  out,  and  to  renounce  in  writing  all  churns 
upon  myself  and  the  rest  who  were  resolved  to  stay  by  the  vessel.  Hav 
ing  done  this,  I  directed  the  roll  to  be  called,  and  each  man  to  answer  for 
himself.' 

"  In  the  result,  eight  out  of  the  seventeen  survivors  of  my  party  resolved 
to  stand  by  the  brig.  It  is  just  that  I  should  record  their  names.  They 
•were  Henry  Brooks,  .lames  Me  Gary,  J.  W.  Wilson,  Henry  Goodfellow, 
William  Morton,  Christian  Ohlsen,  Thomas  Hickey,  Hans  Christian. 

"  I  divided  to  the  others  their  portion  of  our  resources  justly  and  even 
liberally;  and  they  left  us  on  Monday,  the  28th,  with  every  appliance  our 
narrow  circumstances  could  furnish  to  speed  and  guard  them.  One  of 
them,  George  Riley,  returned  a  few  days  afterward;  but  weary  months 
went  by  before  we  saw  the  rest  again.  They  carried  with  them  a  written 
assurance  of  a  brother's  welcome  should  they  be  driven  back;  and  this 
assurance  was  redeemed  when  hard  trials  had  prepare^!  them  to  share 
again  our  fortunes."  (pp.  348  to  351.)  Arctic  Explorations :  the  Secona 
Grinnell  Expedition  in  Search  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  by  Elisha  Kent  Kane, 


INTRODUCTORY.  S3 

similar  circumstances,  can  appreciate  the  conflict  of 
motives  which  affected  the  persons  interested  in  the 
pending  question.  Yet  a  decision  must  be  promptly 
made  ;  and  suffice  it  to  say  that,  after  some  fluctua 
tions  of  judgment,  the  company  was  divided  into 
two  equal  parties.  One  of  these  was  to  remain 
with  the  vessel  during  the  winter.  The  other,  which 
was  to  venture  the  journey  over  the  thousand  miles 
of  ice-girt  water  which  lay  between  the  brig  and  the 
nearest  outpost  of  Christian  men,  consisted  of  J.  Carl 
Petersen,  August  Sonntag,  Amos  Bonsall,  George 
Stephenson,  George  Whipple,  John  Blake,  William 
Godfrey,  and  George  Riley.  That  party  I  accom 
panied.  These  pages  are  a  record  of  its  fortunes 


CHAPTER  H. 

PREPARATION. 

As  the  enterprise  upon  which  we  were  about  to 
start  was  of  our  own  choosing,  and  rested  upon  our 
own  individual  responsibility,  the  commander  very 
properly  required  as  a  condition  of  his  consent  to 
it,  that  we  should  formally  detach  ourselves  from 
the  organization  of  the  brig's  company,  and  that  we 
should  effect  a  separate  organization  under  officers 
elected  by  ourselves.  We  had  no  hesitation  in  the 
choice  of  a  leader;  for,  beside  Mr.  Petersen  there 
was  no  one  in  the  company  who  had  sufficient  ac 
quaintance  with  the  region  through  which  we  were 
to  journey,  to  guide  us  toward  Upernavik.  He  had 
the  experience  of  twenty  years  in  all  the  phases  of 
arctic  life  and  travel,  and  he  was  accordingly  unani 
mously  elected  to  conduct  our  party.  A  future 
chapter  shall  be  enlivened  by  some  biographical  no 
tices  of  him. 

Our  preparations  for  departure  were  immediately 
commenced.  They  were  simple  and  soon  completed. 
We  could  carry  with  us  very  little,  either  in  weight 
or  bulk;  since  everything  had  to  be  transported  over 
the  ice  to  the  open  water.  Of  the  character  of  the 
ice  down  to  Esquimau  Point  we  had  had  already  a 


PRELIMINARY  JOURNEY.  35 

foretaste  when  Dr.  Kane  started  for  Beechy  Island. 
It  was  now  incomparably  worse. 

All  hands  turned  to  with  a  will  to  help  us  off,  and 
the  25th  was  a  busy  day  on  board  the  Advance.  Dr. 
Kane  directed  the  boiling  of  a  barrel  of  pork  and 
some  beans,  and  the  coppers  were  filled  early  in  the 
morning.  I  was  chiefly  occupied,  during  the  day,  in 
getting  together  my  collections  of  natural  history, 
the  gatherings  of  two  summers;  and  in  stowing 
them  away  in  the  hold,  and  in  my  little  room  down 
by  the  forecastle.  The  floral  specimens,  altogether 
about  two  thousand  individual  plants,  were  wrapped 
in  brown  paper  packages,  labelled  with  date  and 
locality,  and  delivered  to  the  commander.  The 
same  was  done  with  the  small  entomological  col 
lection,  which  was  in  a  cigar-box.  The  bird  skins, 
in  all  nearly  two  hundred,  were  secured  in  a  rat- 
proof  chest.  The  geological  and  mineralogical  spec 
imens  ;  the  musk-ox,  human  and  other  skulls  and 
bones;  the  bear  and  seal  skins  ;  the  fishes  and  other 
wet  preparations,  were  in  barrels  or  in  the  Smith 
sonian  copper-tanks.  This  work  seemed,  at  the 
time,  very  useless  ;  but  we  knew  not  what  might 
come,  nor  how  many  of  these  things  might  in  the 
end  be  saved.  I  parted  with  deep  regret  from  these 
old  friends  of  my  wanderings  and  dredgings  —  pets 
mostly  collected  by  myself,  which  had  slowly  accu 
mulated  about  me. 

We  commenced  passing  our  equipment  over  the 
ship's  side  about  noon  of  the  26th ;  and  whilst  some 
of  us  were  thus  engaged,  others  were  sledging  it  to 
the  land-ice,  and  with  a  rope  hauling  it  up  the  verti 
cal  wall.  The  carpenter  had  made  us  a  sledge  of 


86  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

inch-plank,  shod  with  hoop-iron,  oh  which  and  on 
the  "Faith,"  fhe  companion  of  many  a  weary  day'a 
work,  was  stowed  what  we  would  carry ;  and  at 
half-past  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  accompanied 
by  Mr.  Wilson,  Ohlsen,  and  Hickey  of  the  remain 
ing  party,  we  moved  southward,  with  the  first  load. 

The  travelling  was  bad.  The  snow-drifts  were 
half  frozen,  half  melted ;  and  the  ice-foot  was  cov 
ered  in  places  with  the  overflow  of  the  flood-tide, 
now  skimmed  over  with  thin  ice,  too  thin  to  bear» 
thick  enough  to  retard  the  sledge.  In  half  an  hour 
we  reached  the  first  ravine,  and  found  that  the  tor 
rent  formed  by  the  melted  snow  from  the  moun 
tains,  had  worn  the  land-ice  completely  away.  The 
sledges  were  unloaded,  and  the  cargo  was  carried 
over  upon  our  shoulders.  The  same  operation  was 
again  performed  about  a  mile  further  on. 

At  five  o'clock  next  morning  we  reached  the  Six- 
mile  Ravine.  The  rocky  slope  was  here  found  to  be 
exposed  for  a  space  of  about  forty  yards.  Being  too 
much  fatigued  to  carry  over  more  than  our  sleeping 
fixtures,  and  preferring  a  berth  where  we  were,  to 
quarters  in  the  brig  at  the  expense  of  a  walk  back, 
we  spread  out  our  buffalo  skins  and  blankets  upon 
the  rocks. 

Our  sleep  was  such  as  tired  men  get  everywhere; 
and  it  lasted  until  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
By  seven  o'clock  we  had  shouldered  the  remainder  of 
our  cargo  over  the  ravine,  and  turning  back  toward 
the  brig,  we  reached  it  in  three  hours.  Stephenson 
and  Godfrey,  being  broken  down,  were  left  at  the 
encampment. 

Our  now  dismantled  bunks  offered  a  sorry  temp- 


PRELIMINARY  JOURNEY.  37 

tation,  and  we  made  only  a  short  stay  in  them.  By 
eleven  o'clock  A.  M.  of  the  28th,  all  was  ready  for 
a  final  start.  Our  full  cargo  and  equipment  may  be 
summed  up  as  follows. 

We  were  to  take  the  life-boat  from  Life-boat 
Cove,  near  Lyttleton  Island,  and  the  whale-boat 
Forlorn  Hope,  left  by  Dr.  Kane  at  the  Six-mile 
Ravine ;  and  for  transporting  our  cargo  over  the 
ice,  the  little  sledge  made  for  us  by  Ohlsen,  and  the 
sledge  Faith  which  was  loaned  to  us  for  a  few  days. 

For  provisions,  we  had  one  barrel  of  parboiled 
pork,  a  half  barrel  of  raw  ditto,  fifty  pounds  of  boiled 
beans,  five  barrels  of  bread,  fifty  pounds  of  coffee, 
and  about  five  of  tea;  all  sewed  up  in  canvas  bags. 

For  fuel,  we  had  a  large  keg  of  lard  (slush,  rather) 
and  a  coil  of  rope-yarn  ;  our  cooking  apparatus  being 
a  rough  portable  sheet-tin  furnace,  a  foot  in  diame 
ter,  and  fourteen  inches  high.  Our  other  culinary 
articles,  tossed  into  a  bag  of  India-rubber  cloth,  were 
an  old  copper  teakettle,  and  a  well-worn  tin  pot ;  six 
one-pint,  and  three  half-pint  tin  cups,  and  ten  spoons. 
Our  luxuries  were  a  bag  of  flour,  (about  twenty 
pounds,)  a  two-gallon  keg  of  molasses,  a  case  of 
Borden's  meat-biscuit,  a  half  dozen  bottles  of  lime- 
juice,  and  two  ditto  of  vinegar. 

These  articles  were  estimated  to  last  us  from  four 
to  five  weeks.*  For  the  rest,  we  were  to  rely  upon 
our  guns. 

*  This  was  the  time  in  which  we  were  expected  to  reach  Upernnvik,  if 
at  all.  The  amount  of  our  provision  was  liberally  left  by  the  commander 
to  our  own  option;  and  it  was  the  more  readily  taken  by  the  party  as  the 
men  who  continued  with  the  brig  had  all  that  remained  of  the  stores, 
which  would  have  sufficed,  in  quantity,  for  eight  months  for  the  entire 
company  of  eighteen,  officers  and  men. 
4 


88  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

Our  personal  equipment  was  on  a  par  with  the 
state  of  the  larder.  Every  man  who  had  a  com 
plete  change  of  clothing,  carried  it  with  him;  and 
most  of  us  were  thus  furnished.  We  had  worn  out 
nearly  all  of  our  furs.  Our  outer  garments  were, 
therefore,  either  pilot  cloth,  seal-skin,  or  canvas. 
Each  took  his  private  stock  of  blankets,  averaging 
about  one  and  a  half  pairs  per  man.  From  the 
ship's  stores  we  had  half  the  buffalo  robes,  (two 
India-rubber  lined  skins,)  relics  of  the  spring  jour 
neys.  We  were  supplied  by  the  commander  with 
a  sextant,  spy-glass,  chronometer,  boat-compass, 
barometer,  one  shot-gun,  and  a  reasonable  quantity 
of  ammunition.  Bonsall  and  Petersen  had  each  his 
own  rifle.  Dr.  Kane,  Mr.  Wilson,  Mr.  McGary, 
and  Morton,  who  were  best  provided,  generously 
shared  with  us  their  clothing.  From  Wilson  I  re 
ceived  an  under-shirt,  and  two  pairs  of  good  woollen 
socks,  and  I  left  him,  in  exchange,  a  coat.  Sonn- 
tag  added  to  his  bag  something  from  Wilson,  and 
received  a  blanket  from  the  captain.  Petersen's  rifle 
was  a  present  from  Dr.  Kane  to  Petersen  junior,  at 
Upernavik. 

During  the  morning,  while  some  were  packing  up 
their  "  traps,"  others  were  carrying  our  remaining 
stores  to  the  land-ice.  Before  noon  the  sledges  were 
packed,  and  all  was  ready.  Dr.  Kane  then  called  us 
to  the  cabin.  In  some  nook  or  corner  of  the  after- 
port-locker  the  careful  steward  had  stowed  a  couple 
of  bottles  of  champagne,  the  existence  of  which 
was  known  only  to  the  commander  and  himself. 
One  of  these  was  drawn  from  its  hiding-place,  and 
in  broken-handled  teacups  we  exchanged  mutual 


THE   PARTING.  39 

pledges.  The  "  God  speed  you  "  of  those  who  re 
mained  was  answered  with  a  reciprocal  good  wish 
from  those  who  were  about  to  leave.  Next  moment 
we  had  shaken  hands  and  said  good-bye  all  around, 
and,  mounting  the  companion-ladder,  were  off. 

As  we  slowly  moved  down  the  ice-foot,  we  en 
deavored  to  make  up  in  firmness  of  tread  what  we 
lacked  in  lightness  of  heart.  Although  our  judg 
ments  could  not  waver,  after  the  serious  discussions 
which  had  led  to  our  choice  of  alternatives,  yet  the 
contingencies  which  awaited  each  party  were  suf 
ficiently  impressive  to  weigh  heavily  upon  us.  Our 
messmates  at  the  brig  \vaved  us  a  silent  adieu  from 
the  deck. 


CHAPTER  in. 

THE    START. 

Mr.  Me  Gary,  Hickey,  and  Hans  were  detailed 
by  Dr.  Kane  to  assist  us  in  transporting  our  cargo  to 
the  open  water,  a  lead  of  which  we  expected  to 
meet  at  ten  miles  from  the  brig.  The  Six-mile 
Ravine  was  reached  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  here 
we  again  camped. 

We  were  now  fairly  off;  but  it  was  not  until  next 
day  that  we  fully  realized  the  amount  of  labor 
which  was  before  us.  I  was  awake  at  four  o'clock 
in  the  morning;  and,  calling  one  of  the  men,  started 
the  lamp  to  boil  some  coffee.  Leaving  him  to  look 
after  the  breakfast,  I  walked  a  short  distance  down 
the  ice-foot  in  company  with  Petersen.  The  pros 
pect  was  rather  disheartening.  There  was  scarcely 
a  foot  of  water  to  be  seen.  The  land  lead  was 
closed  with  lumps  of  wasted  ice,  cemented  together 
by  the  last  few  days'  freezing.  All  to  the  northward 
appeared  as  one  unbroken  field;  while  down  the 
coast  to  the  south  and  west  we  could  see  only  an 
impacted  mass  of  broken  floes,  the  chasms  sepa 
rating  which  were  bridged  over  with  thin  ice.  Re 
turning  to  the  encampment  we  found  our  com- 


A    DISCOURAGING  PEOSPECT.  41 

panions  busy  with  preparations  for  starting.  The 
first  load  was  packed  on  the  Faith  ;  and  with  all 
hands  on  the  track-ropes,  except  Mr.  Sonntag  and 
Stephenson  who  were  both  unwell,  we  moved  slow 
ly  southward;  and  in  three  hours  reached  the  Ten- 
mile  Ravine,  four  miles  further  on  our  course. 

As  we  approached  the  outer  extremity  of  the 
cape,  our  people  felt  keenly  disappointed  ;  for  they 
had  confidently  expected  here  to  take  the  water. 
Ice,  ice,  and  nothing  but  ice  was  anywhere  to  be 
seen.  There  was  certainly  little  that  was  tempting 
in  the  prospect.  The  succor  for  which  they  perilled 
their  lives  seemed  a  long  way  off,  when  they  looked 
out  over  this  boundless  waste  of  frozen  water.  Ten 
miles  behind  them  was  the  ship,  which  they  had  left 
the  day  before.  Between  her  oaken  walls  was  to  be 
found  the  only  shelter  within  more  than  a  thousand 
miles.  Before  them,  at  that  distance,  was  Uper- 
navik,  with  safety,  if  it  could  be  reached  ;  but  what 
a  wilderness  intervened !  A  less  important  object, 
and  a  less  desperate  motive  to  persevere,  would  have 
been  insufficient  to  sustain  us. 

There  was  certainly  some  excuse  for  melancholy 
faces,  and  questionings  as  to  whether  it  were  not 
wiser  to  turn  back.  However,  the  men  all  stood  firm 
through  fourteen  hours  of  continual  labor,  in  the 
teeth  of  a  southerly  wind,  accompanied  with  occa 
sional  gusts  of  snow.  During  this  time  we  brought 
up  all  our  cargo  in  three  separate  loads,  leaving  be 
hind  only  the  boat  Forlorn  Hope  ;  and  we  were  glad 
enough,  after  a  supper  of  cold  pork,  bread,  and  cof 
fee,  to  find,  in  the  tent,  shelter  from  the  wind,  which 
was  fast  increasing  to  a  gale.  The  relief-party, 

4* 


42  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

which  had  accompanied  us  thus  far,  having  exhaust 
ed  its  allotted  time,  left  us  at  noon  to  return  on 
board. 

The  barometer  went  down  in  the  night  to  28.7, 
and  the  temperature  rose  from  26°  to  33°.  The 
gale  broke  upon  us  directly  after  we  had  camped. 
Jt  soon  started  the  ice.  First  a  few  open  leads  ap 
peared  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  toward  Godsend 
Island.  At  length  the  floes  to  the  northwest  gave 
way,  and  the  loose  drift  down  toward  Esquimau 
Point  drove  rapidly  up  the  channel ;  but  the  shore- 
ice  near  us  did  not  move.  A  chain  of  heavy  bergs 
lay  grounded  off  Cape  Ingersoll,  and  they  held  the 
ice  firmly.  Oar  hope  was  that  the  gale  would  set 
these  bergs  in  motion  ;  but  this  hope  forsook  us 
when  we  discovered  the  barometer  to  be  rising  and 
the  thermometer  falling. 

The  force  of  the  gale  was  broken  in  the  afternoon, 
and  it  died  away  toward  evening,  leaving  the  sea 
open  to  the  southwest.  From  this  water  we  were 
most  provokingly  shut  out  by  a  narrow  belt  of  h urn- 
mocks  and  trash  which  were  all  joined  together  by 
thin  ice,  not  sufficiently  strong  to  bear.  We  had  a 
good  night's  rest  in  our  tent,  notwithstanding  the 
wind,  and  turned  out  at  eight  o'clock. 

Godfrey  fixed  the  lamp  in  the  lee  of  a  large  rock, 
and  cooked  us  a  comfortable  breakfast  of  scouse 
and  coffee.  The  gale  was  then  at  its  height,  and 
we  waited  from  hour  to  hour  in  readiness  to  take  the 
water  when  the  ice  should  move  off;  but  five  o'clock 
came,  and  brought  no  change.  There  was  no  alter 
native  but  to  resume  our  work.  Our  tent  was 
pitched  at  the  mouth  of  a  deep  ravine,  and  before 


"THE  FORLORN  HOPE."  43 

us  the  land-ice  *  was  entirely  gone  for  at  least  fifty 
yards.  Beyond  this  it  was  much  wasted  away.  By 
noon  we  had  brought  up  the  boat,  and  then  we  car 
ried  the  greater  part  of  our  stores  a  mile  further  on. 
While  this  was  being  done,  Petersen  was  repairing 
the  boat.  The  fact  had  been  disclosed  to  us  the 
day  before,  that  the  Forlorn  Hope  was  a  forlorn  af 
fair  indeed.  As  she  lay  under  the  cliffs  where  she 
had  been  left  by  Dr.  Kane,  she  had  become  seriously 
damaged.  A  stone,  about  the  size  of  one's  fist,  had 
fallen  upon  her  from  the  cliff,  and,  striking  her  stern- 
post,  had  started  it ;  then,  glancing  off,  it  had  gone 
completely,  through  her  half-inch  cedar  planking; 
while  another  had  rolled  down  under  the  bilge,  and, 
pushing  a  plank  out  of  its  place,  had  broken  it  in 
two.  We  had  the  good  fortune  to  possess  a  hatchet, 
some  nails,  a  few  pieces  of  board,  and  a  little  pot  of 
white  lead;  and  with  these  Petersen  patched  up  the 
holes,  and  made  all  right  again. 

The  boat  was  then  launched ;  that  is,  run  down 
over  the  stones  upon  her  keel  toward  the  water. 
She  stuck  fast,  and  we  found  much  trouble  in  doing 
anything  with  her.  The  ice  would  not  support  her, 
and  yet  it  was  so  thick  that  we  could  not  cut  through 
it.  We  therefore  hauled  her  out  again,  and  resolved 
to  await  the  flood-tide. 

We  crawled  back  into  the  tent  and  slept  sound 
ly  until  three  o'clock  next  morning,  when  we  were 

*  This  "land-ice,"  or  "  ice-foot,"  as  it  is  indifferently  culled,  i*  a  belt 
which,  being  glued  to  the  rocks,  does  not  rise  and  fall  with  the  tide.  Its 
outer  face  is  vertical,  and  its  upper  surface  is  mainly  smooth  and  level, 
until  toward  the  close  of  summer,  when  the  melted  snow  poured  upon  it 
from  the  hills  and  cliffs  on  the  one  side,  and  the  sea  ou  the  other,  wear  it 
rapidly  away. 


44  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

aroused  by  voices  outside.  Three  Esquimaux,  a 
boy  of  about  eighteen  years,  and  two  women,  stood 
at  the  door  of  the  tent,  chattering  away  as  unintelli 
gibly,  and  many  times  as  fast  as  a  poll-parrot.  The 
boy  we  had  seen  before,  but  the  women  were  new 
to  us.  They  were  a  miserable  looking  set.  Their 
faces  were  mottled  with  soot  and  oil,  through  which 
only  here  and  there  could  be  seen  the  natural  cop 
pery  tint  of  the  complexion.  They  were  dressed  in 
skins,  or  rather  were  scarcely  dressed  at  all,  for  their 
clothing  was  in  rags  and  tatters,  and  seemed  just 
ready  to  drop  off.  Their  hands  and  faces  looked  as 
if  they  had  never  been  washed;  and  the  boy,  with 
his  long  black  matted  hair  cut  square  across  his  eye 
brows,  and  the  women  with  theirs  drawn  together  on 
the  top  of  the  head,  where  it  was  tied  with  a  piece 
of  leather,  presented  a  most  unattractive  appearance. 
One  of  the  women  carried  a  baby  not  more  than  six 
months  old.  It  was  stuck,  stark  naked  and  feet  fore 
most,  into  the  after-part  of  her  coat  or  jumper,  being 
supported  by  a  rope,  on  which  it  seemed  to  sit,  and 
which  came  around  under  the  mother's  arms  and 
was  tied  about  her  neck ;  its  innocent  baby-face, 
peering  out  over-  the  woman's  left  shoulder  from 
beneath  her  hootl,  was  the  very  image  of  stupid  un 
consciousness. 

They  were  shivering  with  cold,  and  asked  foj 
means  to  light  a  fire.  We  gave  them  some  matches. 
a  bit  of  wood,  and  two  or  three  needles ;  and  after 
sharing  with  us  our  breakfast,  which,  salt  though  it 
was,  they  were  hungry  enough  to  relish,  they  started 
off  down  the  coast.  A  few  hours  after,  we  learned 
that  they  knew  more  than  they  chose  to  communi- 


ESQUIMAUX.  45 

cate.  Hans  came  running  down  the  ice-foot,  out 
of  breath  and  in  a  great  rage.  It  was  sometime  be 
fore  we  could  get  out  of  him  what  was  the  matter. 
When  he  recovered  his  breath,  he  told  his  story  in 
his  own  language  to  Petersen  ;  but  in  the  mean  time 
it  was  nothing  but  "  Smit-Soun  Eskemo,  no  koot! 
no  koot!  All  same  mickey!  —  all  same  dog!  steal 
me  bag !  —  steal  Nalegak  buffalo !  " 

The  truth  was,  they  had  been  to  the  ship  and  car 
ried  off,  among  other  valuables,  a  small  buffalo-skin, 
and  a  wolf-skin  bag  which  Dr.  Kane  had  presented 
to  Hans.  Hence  the  lad's  indignation.  The  cun 
ning  thieves  had  taken  good  care  to  secrete  these 
articles  from  us.  They  had  probably  travelled  over 
the  land,  and  approaching  the  sea,  a  mile  or  two 
below,  had  seen  us  from  the  hill-tops,  and  come  to 
beg  a  trifle.  Certainly  all  they  could  get  by  fair 
means  or  foul  was  not  more  than  they  needed,  and 
could  we  have  spared  any  important  articles,  I  am 
sure  no  one  would  have  objected  to  giving  them 
what  they  most  required.  We  were  about  as  badly 
off  as  they.  Hans  stopped  with  us  long  enough  to 
refresh  himself  with  something  to  eat  and  a  cup 
of  coffee,  and  then  continued  after  the  thieves. 

When  the  full  tide  had  come  in  we  found  that 
the  ice  had  relaxed  a  little,  and  that  there  was 
a  narrow  lead  close  alongside  the  ice-foot.  The 
boat  was  again  run  down  and  launched.  For  about 
a  hundred  yards  we  got  on  well  enough,  but  the 
lead  was  then  closed  up  by  pieces  of  heavy  ice,  some 
of  which  had  been  carried  there  by  the  spring-tides 
and  were  grounded.  These  obliged  us  to  haul  out 
side  where  the  young  ice  lay  in  one  continuous  sheet 


46  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

It  was  found  to  be  of  the  same  character  as  that 
which  we  had  before  encountered.  It  would  not 
break  before  the  bows  of  the  boat,  nor  would  it  bear. 
We  tried  all  sorts  of  expedients.  First  we  cleared 
the  thwarts,  and  four  men  were  put  to  the  oars 
The  points  of  the  blades  were  driven  into  the  ice 
the  bosv  having  been  previously  lightened,  and  every 
thing  stowed  in  the  sternsheets  ;  but  no  force  that 
we  could  exert  in  this  manner  would  drive  the  boat 
forward.  Then  two  men  were  stationed  in  the  bow 
and  broke  the  way  with  the  boat-hooks ;  but  this 
was  so  slow  an  operation,  and  fatigued  us  so  much, 
that  it  was  abandoned.  We  therefore  drew  back 
once  more,  and  after  unshipping  the  cargo,  we  drag 
ged  the  boat  upon  the  ice-foot,  and  hauled  her  on 
her  keel,  down  to  the  place  to  which  we  had  carried 
the  remaining  stores  the  day  before. 

These  stores  were  then  taken  forward  upon  the 
sledge,  at  two  separate  loads,  one  and  a  half  miles 
further  on  ;  and  the  boat  was  afterward  carried  to 
the  same  place.  Here  we  again  found  that  a  por 
tion  of  the  ice-foot  was  washed  away ;  and  beyond 
this  break  the  foot  was  impassable  by  reason  of  the 
frequent  fissures  which  occurred,  some  of  them  wide 
and  deep.  Beside,  the  icy  ledge  was  in  many  places 
so  narrow  or  sloping  as  to  be  impracticable  to  a 
sledge. 

The  labors  of  the  day  had  much  fatigued  us.  In 
addition  to  the  fruitless  exertion  which  we  had 
made  on  account  of  the  boat,  we  were  five  times 
obliged  to  unship  our  cargo  from  the  sledges  ;  and, 
making  pack-horses  of  ourselves,  to  transport  it  piece 
by  piece  across  the  broken  places  in  the  land-ice,  or 


A  LITTLE  ACCIDENT.  47 

over  the  narrow  fissures  on  a  bridge  which  we  made 
with  the  sledges.  We  were,  beside,  greatly  vexed 
by  a  little  accident,  which  seemed  likely  to  deprive 
us  of  one  of  our  few  luxuries.  Bonsall  had  taken 
the  keg  of  molasses  upon  the  back  of  his  neck, 
grasping  either  end  of  it  with  one  hand,  and,  while 
trudging  along  near  the  edge  of  the  ice-foot,  tripped 
and  fell  upon  his  face.  The  keg  went  rolling  over 
his  head  and  down  into  the  sea.  Then  more  than 
two  hours  elapsed  before  we  could  find  any  water 
for  our  coffee.  The  streams  seemed  to  be  all  dried 
up;  and  we  were  obliged  to  await  the  return  of  a 
party  from  our  last  encampment  before  we  could 
start  the  fire.  It  was  seven  o'clock  when  we  pitched 
the  tent,  and  we  got  to  bed  after  ten ;  not,  however, 
before  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  learning  that,  the 
tide  having  fallen,  Mr.  Bonsall  and  Godfrey  had,  by 
means  of  boat-hooks,  fished  up  the  molasses  out 
of  four  feet  of  water! 


CHAPTER  IV. 

ACROSS   THE   ICE-FIELDS. 

FOR  reasons  which  appear  in  the  last  chapter,  no 
course  remained  to  us  but  to  leave  the  land-ice  and 
try  once  more  the  "floes."  A  sudden  fall  of  the 
temperature,  during  the  night  and  the  latter  part  of 
the  previous  day,  to  ten  degrees  below  the  freezing 
point  of  sea-water,  had  come  to  our  aid.  The 
young  ice  was  found  to  be,  in  places,  three  inches  in 
thickness,  and  would  securely  bear  us. 

Accordingly,  after  breakfast,  everything  was  made 
ready ;  and  the  tide  being  at  its  ebb,  the  boat  was 
run  down  the  sloping  beach  and  upon  the  ice ;  and 
although  this  bent  under  the  weight,  yet  we  reached 
in  safety  an  old  floe  at  about  a  hundred  yards  from 
shore.  The  large  sledge  was  then  loaded  with  our 
clothes-bags  and  buffalo  robes,  and  started ;  but,  as 
bad  luck  would  have  it,  the  slope  was  steep,  and  the 
two  men  at  the  after-guy  found  it  impossible  to 
maintain  their  hold.  Their  heels  flew  up,  and  away 
went  the  "  Faith  "  down  to  the  right  where  the  ice 
was  thin.  First,  this  bent ;  then  one  runner  broke 
through  ;  over  went  the  cargo,  and  into  the  water 
went  everything. 

Fortunately  there  was  nothing  on  the  sledge  thai 


RETREAT   OF   RILE1.  49 

would  not  float;  but  our  clothes-bags  were  thoroughly 
soaked  before  we  could  get  our  boat-hooks  and  save 
them.  The  buffalo  robes  were  wrapped  in  India- 
rubber  cloth,  and  were  scarcely  touched  by  the  water. 
Nothing  of  importance  to  us  was  seriously  damaged 
except  the  spirits  of  our  men.  Petersen  was  the 
principal  loser.  „  He  had  brought  with  him  from 
Upernavik  a  fine  bed  of  eider-down,  under  which  he 
was  accustomed  to  stow  himself  out  of  sight  every 
night  when  on  board  of  the  Advance.  This  bed 
he  had  compressed  into  a  bundle  not  larger  than 
his  head,  and  had  put  it  in  his  bag.  It  was  thor 
oughly  soaked,  and  was  of  course  worthless.  I 
pitied  the  man  as  he  unwrapped  the  flabby  thing; 
yet  I  could  not  repress  a  smile  at  the  workings  of 
his  rueful  face,  while  he  wrung  the  water  from  his 
treasure.  Smarting  under  my  mirthfulness,  and  his 
great  disappointment,  he  hastily  rolled  the  whole  up 
into  a  wad,  and  with  an  expression,  too  Danish  for 
me  to  detect  of  its  meaning,  more  than  "  Doctor ! " 
and  "Sa-tan!"  he  hurled  it  among  the  rocks. — 
Forty  Danish  dollars  gone  forever! 

During  the  last  four-and-twenty  hours  the  courage 
of  some  of  the  party  had  been  steadily  on  the  wane. 
They  could  see  no  possibility  of  our  getting  at  this 
rate  to  Upernavik.  This  accident  was  the  straw 
which  broke  the  camel's  back ;  and  while  we  were  yet 
busy  with  the  wet  cargo,  Riley  and  John,  concluding, 
no  doubt,  that  prudence  was  the  better  part  of  valor, 
beat  a  hasty  retreat  toward  the  brig.  John  rejoined 
us  soon  afterward,  but  Riley  remained  on  board. 
The  number  of  our  party  was  thus  reduced  to  eight 
persons. 


50  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

The  work  nevertheless  went  on.  A  half  hour  was 
sufficient  for  wringing  the  water  out  of  our  baggage 
and  spreading  the  articles  upon  the  rocks.  With 
more  caution  than  before,  we  ran  another  load  over 
to  the  boat.  At  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  had 
collected  together  all  of  our  cargo,  and  were  ready 
once  more  to  move  onward.  In  the  mean  time 
Godfrey  had  been  moping  on  the  rocks.  I  gave  to 
him  peremptorily  the  option,  to  go  back  to  the  ship 
at  once,  or  to  go  to  work.  He  chose  the  latter. 

Hans  joined  us  again  at  noon.  He  had  overtaken 
the  Esquimaux,  but  had  not  found  the  stolen  articles 
upon  them.  It  was  his  wish  to  go  with  us,  and  now 
that  our  party  was  reduced  to  seven,  (John  had  not 
yet  returned,)  and  the  party  on  board  increased  to 
eleven,  he  thought  it  unfair  that  we  refused  him.  I 
desired  Petersen  to  tell  him  that  we  could  not  take 
him  without  the  permission  of  Dr.  Kane.  He  worked 
with  us  during  the  remainder  of  the  day,  no  doubt 
hoping  that  by  this  act  of  devotion  we  would  be  in 
duced  to  relent ;  but  it  was  clearly  our  duty  to  send 
him  back. 

The  old  floe,  to  which  we  had  brought  our  boat 
and  cargo,  was  rough  and  rotten.  On  the  further 
side  of  it  was  a  belt  of  new  ice.  Beyond  this  we 
could  see  open  water,  which  Hans  informed  us  con 
tinued  nearly  to  Godsend  Island,  to  the  south  of 
which,  with  the  exception  of  a  narrow  belt,  all  was 
free.  We  worked  hard,  hoping  to  reach  this  open 
water,  but  eleven  o'clock  found  us  only  at  the  margin 
of  the  old  field.  Already  we  had  been  in  the  traces 
fourteen  hours ;  and  at  least  six  more  would  be  re 
quired  to  make  the  remaining  distance.  The  peo- 


.       GIVING  UP  "  THE  FAITH."  51 

pie  were  exhausted  and  must  have  rest,  come  what 
might.  We  therefore  pitched  our  tent,  and,  by  mid 
night,  were  all  fast  asleep. 

An  hour  after,  we  were  aroused  by  McGary  and 
Goodfellow,  who  had  come  down  after  the  Faith.  I 
explained  to  them  that  they  must  have  mistaken 
their  orders,  since  we  were  to  have  the  sledge  until 
we  reached  the  water;  that  they  had  two  good 
gledges  at  the  ship,  and  the  one  which  we  had  was 
not  needed  in  addition  ;  but  they  showed  a  letter 
from  Dr.  Kane  containing  an  order  to  bring  the 
Faith  to  the  ship.  Although  satisfied  that  a  mis 
apprehension  existed  (as  subsequently  was  ascer 
tained  to  be  the  fact),  we  sent  back  the  sledge.  The 
party  left  us  in  half  an  hour.  They  made  in  one 
continuous  march  the  journey  to  and  fro,  altogether 
little  less  than  thirty  miles,  without  rest  or  food,  over 
a  bad  road,  with  the  thermometer  at  17°.  We  after 
ward  learned  that  they  had  worked  all  the  day  be 
fore  at  the  ship,  had  started  after  supper,  and  were 
at  home  to  breakfast. 

We  were  out  of  our  blankets  at  six  o'clock  next 
morning.  The  temperature  had  fallen  to  15°.  The 
air  was  perfectly  calm.  The  open  water,  which 
looked  so  hopeful  yesterday,  was  now  covered  with 
a  thin  crust  of  ice.  The  day  began  rather  dis- 
couragingly. 

The  sledge  made  for  us  by  the  carpenter  had  been 
found  to  be  utterly  worthless  ;  and,  after  the  first  day, 
it  had  been  carried,  not  under,  but  on  top  of  the  cargo. 
It  was  so  frail  that  it  would  not  hold  together  ;  and 
the  thin  hoop-iron  sole  was  cracked.  Bad,  how 
ever,  as  it  was,  it  was  all  that  we  had,  and  we 


52  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY.     fc 

must  make  the  most  of  it.  Petersen,  whose  inge 
nuity  we  had  reason  to  commend  on  many  subse 
quent  occasions,  did  the  best  that  he  could  under  the 
circumstances.  The  broken  iron  was  patched,  and 
the  lashings  were  re-arranged.  By  nine  o'clock,  all 
was  ready  to  start. 

Meanwhile,  some  of  the  party  had  been  carrying 
forward  such  articles  as  they  could  transport  upon 
their  backs ;  and  some  of  the  heavier  ones  were 
swung  upon  oars  and  carried,  upon  two  men's  shoul 
ders,  to  the  place  where  open  water  had  been  seen 
the  previous  evening.  Such  articles  as  could  not 
be  thus  transported  were  left  for  the  sledge,  which 
brought  them  up  in  three  loads.  Then  the  boat  was 
dragged  to  the  same  spot  upon  her  keel.  The  water 
was  now  found  to  be  covered  with  ice  about  an  inch 
in  thickness. 

The  stores  being  placed  in  the  boat,  we  ran  her  out 
upon  the  thin  ice ;  and  as  the  bows  sank  down,  we 
sprang  over  the  gunwale,  and  found  ourselves  afloat 
in  a  puddle  of  water  which  fitted  us  exactly.  How 
to  get  on  was  the  next  question.  Three  men  took 
oars,  the  others  took  poles  and  boat-hooks.  The 
blades  of  the  oars  were  planted  in  the  ice,  and  the 
boat-hooks  astern.  The  result  of  the  operation  was 
to  split  an  oar,  to  break  a  thole-pin,  and  to  precip 
itate  the  surgeon  of  the  expedition  into  the  water. 
He  was  stationed  in  the  sternsheets,  and  was  push 
ing  with  much  energy  with  a  boat-hook,  planted 
in  the  ice,  when  the  hold  broke,  and  the  area  of 
the  open  water  was  increased  by  the  size  of  nis 
body. 

The  ice  was  too  strong  to  be  cut  by  the  boat's 


HARD  WORK.  55 

Stem  ;  and,  but  for  Stephenson,  we  should  have  been 
obliged  once  more  to  haul  back  upon  the  floe,  and 
try  again  the  sledging.  Stephenson  wore  a  pair  of 
thick  cowhide  boots,  professedly  water-proof,  which 
came  up  a  foot  above  his  knees  ;  and  with  these  he 
proposed  to  tramp  a  track.  He  stationed  himself 
astride  of  ihe  bow,  seized  the  top  of  the  stem-post 
with  both  hands,  and,  treading  to  right  and  left,  he 
broke  up  a  passage  from  two  to  three  feet  in  width, 
through  which  the  boat  was  squeezed.  The  ice  be 
came  thinner  as  we  advanced,  and  we  made  better 
progress. 

Thus  we  gained  about  four  miles,  which  brought 
us  to  the  land  at  the  head  of  Force  Bay.  Mounting 
to  the  ice-foot,  which  was  here  very  narrow  and 
almost  impassable,  we  tracked  the  boat,  in  true  canal 
style,  a  mile  or  two  further,  when  we  again  brought 
up  against  ice  which  would  bear  us.  Again  the 
cargo  was  unshipped,  and  was  carried  over  to  an  old 
floe,  about  a  hundred  yards  from  shore.  Here  we 
pitched  our  tent. 

This  kind  of  work  was  rapidly  reducing  the 
strength  of  our  people.  Constant  labor  during  six 
teen  hours  is  not  child's  play  anywhere  ;  but,  with 
wet  feet  and  often  wet  bodies,  in  a  temperature  vary 
ing  from  12°  to  20°,  it  was  more  than  any  one  could 
prolong.  Several  of  us  had  fallen  through  the  ice 
during  the  day ;  and  Stephenson,  who  was  a  scorbu 
tic  invalid  at  starting,  felt  seriously  the  effects  of  hav 
ing  his  feet  so  long  in  the  water.  Petersen,  who  had 
suffered  during  the  whole  summer  from  scurvy  and 
rheumatism,  felt  his  pains  coming  back ;  and  Mr. 
Sonntag  was  threatened  with  his  old  heart  trouble, 

5* 


51  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

I  believe  there  was  scarcely  one  of  us  who  did  not 
take  his  sick  man's  growl  as  he  rolled  into  his 
blankets. 

While  the  supper  was  cooking,  I  went  with  Peter- 
sen  and  Sonntag  to  the  shore,  and  from  a  bluff  about 
one  hundred  feet  in  height  we  had  a  fine  view  to  the 
westward.  About  six  miles  away,  the  sea  was  per 
fectly  open,  and  a  light  wind  which  blew  in  from 
that  direction  was  eating  into  the  young  ice  which 
margined  it,  and,  by  keeping  its  surface  agitated, 
prevented  its  freezing.  With  a  good  sledge,  another 
day's  pull  would  finish  this  soul  and  body  killing 
work;  but,  with  the  rickety  affair  with  which  we 
had  occupied  eight  hours  in  making  half  a  mile,  we 
had  a  hopeless  task  before  us.  Indeed,  it  looked 
very  much  like  folly  to  attempt  it.  We  could  not 
hope  to  make  the  six  miles  in  less  than  three  days. 
Already  the  temperature  was  down  to  12°.  Three 
days  would  carry  us  to  the  6th  of  September,  and 
then  the  prospect  of  getting  out  of  the  bay  would 
be  slight  indeed. 

We  had  just  got  fairly  into  the  midst  of  our  nap 
when  we  were  aroused  by  Morton.  He  had  come 
down  to  bring  back  the  Faith,  and  he  carried  a  letter 
from  Dr.  Kane,  explaining  the  cause  of  its  with 
drawal.  From  what  he  had  learned,  he  had  feared 
that  adverse  counsels  existed  in  the  party,  that  it  had 
been  divided,  and  that  the  sledge  no  longer  remained 
in  the  possession  of  the  officers. 

Hickey  and  Riley  accompanied  Morton.  Riley 
was  to  remain  with  us  until  we  got  to  open  water, 
and  then  take  back  the  sledge.  Morton  and  Hickey 
were  to  go  in  pursuit  of  the  Esquimaux  thieves. 


ESQUIMAUX  PRISONERS.  55 

A.  bed  was  fitted  up  for  them  in  the  boat,  and  there 
they  slept  soundly  until  ten  o'clock  next  morning. 
By  eleven,  everything  was  packed  up,  and  the  sledge 
loaded  ;  and,  as  the  men  ran  away  with  it,  the  de 
spondency  which  settled  over  them  the  previous  even 
ing  took  hasty  flight.  There  would  be  now  no  diffi 
culty  in  reaching  the  water. 

Hickey  was  sick,  and  stayed  at  the  camp,  while 
Riley  took  his  place  and  went  on  with  Morton.  In 
half  an  hour  Riley  came  back  dripping  wet;  he  had 
fallen  through  the  ice.  Morton  had  gone  on  alone. 
He  returned  late  in  the  afternoon,  having  the  Es 
quimaux  with  him.  He  had  overtaken  them  near 
Refuge  Inlet,  where  they  had  halted  to  divide  their 
booty.  The  skins  were  all  nicely  made  by  them  into 
coats  and  pantaloons,  which  had  usurped  the  place 
of  their  old  ragged,  filthy  seal-skins.  They  looked 
much  improved  in  their  borrowed  plumes,  and  strut 
ted  about,  seeming  not  to  be  aware  of  the  fact  that 
they  were  prisoners;  and  very  proud  were  they,  sup 
posing  that  they  had  obtained  the  skin  of  an  uming- 
mak,  (musk-ox, )  an  animal  of  which  they  had  heard, 
but  which  they  had  never  seen.  The  tribe  have,  how 
ever,  traditional  knowledge  of  the  existence  of  the 
musk-ox  to  the  far  north.  They  were  once  inhab 
itants  of  that  part  of  Greenland  visited  by  us  above 
Cape  Alexander.  My  collections  of  natural  history, 
left  at  the  Advance,  contained  at  least  a  dozen  skulls, 
picked  up  at  different  points  along  the  coast;  andf 
eighty  miles  eastward  of  Rensselaer  Harbor,  nearly 
at  the  base  of  the  mer  de  glace,  specimens  of  them 
were  found  by  Mr.  Wilson  and  myself  in  the  autumn 
of  1853.  It  seems,  therefore,  that  they  were  numer- 


56  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

ous  in  that  region  in  former  times ;  though,  from  the 
fact  that  no  living  specimens  were  observed  by  us, 
nor  any  seen  by  the  natives,  we  may  infer  that  the 
animal  has  long  since  become  extinct  in  Greenland. 
I  do  not  doubt  the  truthfulness  of  the  Esquimau 
tradition  of  their  existence  to  the  far  north,  on  an 
island  in  an  iceless  sea. 

To  return  to  the  narrative  :  Morton  and  Hickey 
soon  left  us  with  their  newly-clad  prisoners,  and 
the  work  of  transportation  went  on  in  much  the 
same  manner  as  during  the  two  previous  days ;  but 
we  progressed  more  slowly  than  we  had  anticipated. 
Once  we  reached  a  wide  crack  that  had  been  opened 
by  the  tide,  which  obliged  us  to  ship  our  cargo1  into 
the  boat,  and  unship  it  again  on  the  other  side, 
thus  occasioning  the  loss  of  much  time.  Another 
crack  %we  attempted  to  cross  on  its  bridge  of  thin 
ice.  It  held  up  very  well,  bending  slightly,  but  not 
breaking,  under  our  several  loads,  until  the  boat 
broke  its  back,  and  let  all  of  us  down  into  the  water 
except  those  who  had  hold  of  the  track-ropes. 

The  main  open  water  was  not  reached  until  mid 
night.  Everything  was  embarked  in  the  boat,  and, 
leaving  Petersen  with  four  men  to  bring  it  over  to 
Esquimau  Point,  which  was  about  two  miles  dis 
tant,  I  walked  with  the  remainder  of  my  comrades 
around  upon  the  ice  to  the  land.  After  taking  a 
look-out  from  a  neighboring  bluff,  we  joined  the 
others  where  they  were  hauled  up  at  a  short  dis 
tance  from  the  shore,  being  unable  to  approach 
nearer  on  account  of  the  heavy  ice  which  had  set 
in,  and  which  lay  grounded  and  hemmed  in  by  the 
rocks.  We  found  that  they  had  preceded  us  by 


PROTRACTED  EXERTION.  57 

an  hour  and  a  half,  as  was  shown  by  the  steaming 
pot  of  coffee  with  which  we  were  welcomed. 

On  our  way  down  to  the  beach  from  the  hill-side, 
we  stopped  at  the  old  dilapidated  hut  which  gives 
the  name  to  the  locality.  Here  we  had  the  good 
fortune  to  find  a  piece  of  walrus  meat,  which  we 
supposed  had  been  left  by  Morton's  prisoners ;  and 
which,  as  we  had  tasted  no  fresh  food  since  leaving 
the  ship,  we  thought  it  no  sin  to  appropriate  to  our 
own  use.  We  left  in  its  place  a  wooden  staff,  which, 
in  the  eyes  of  the  Esquimaux,  would  be  ample  com 
pensation.  With  the  addition  of  a  few  pieces  of 
pork,  the  meat  thus  provided  made  us  a  fine  sup 
per. 

•  The  view  which  we  obtained  from  the  hill  showed 
the  coast  to  be  mainly  free  from  ice  as  far  down  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  and  out  to  sea  for  three  or  four 
miles.  Beyond  this  distance  there  lay  a  heavy  pack, 
which  was  held  off  from  the  shore  by  a  long  chain  of 
dangerous  looking  bergs.  The  lead  was  tempting, 
but  there  was  no  wind,  and  we  could  only  go  on  un 
der  oars.  Our  people  were  incapable  of  such  exertion. 
They  had  had  another  day  of  sixteen  hours'  contin 
ued  work,  and  must  have  rest.  Hoping  for  the  best, 
—  that  the  lead  would  remain  open, — we  pitched 
our  tent  upon  the  level  surface  of  a  piece  of  old  ice 
which  lay  grounded  near  the  shore ;  and  at  three 
o'clock  in  the  morning  we  turned  in,  weary  and  cold, 
as  men  with  wet  clothes  would  naturally  be  after 
so  protracted  exertion,  with  the  temperature  at  11°, 
but  happy  as  temporary  success  could  make  us.  We 
were  so  far  overcome  that  we  retired  to  rest  without 
setting  a  watch. 


,58  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

"When  we  awoke  next  morning,  a  smart  breeze 
was  blowing  from  north-northeast.  Petersen  went 
on  ?hore  to  reconnoitre,  and  soon  returned,  reporting 
the  ice  closing  in  with  the  land.  Our  baggage  was 
shipped  into  the  boat  as  quickly  as  possible.  Giv 
ing  the  Faith  into  the  charge  of  K-iley,  and  bidding 
him  a  hasty  adieu,  we  pulled  up  to  windward  to 
clear  the  Point;  and  then,  shaking  out  our  sails,  we 
stood  away  exultingly  on  our  course,  west-south 
west. 


CHAPTER  V. 

UNDER    SAIL. 

Tim  Forlorn  Hope  was  an  ordinary  New  London 
whale-boat,  twenty-four  fret  in  length,  two  and  a 
half  in  depth,  and  with  five  and  a  half  feet  beam. 
She  had  been  rigged  by  Mr.  McGary  for  Dr.  Kane's 
southern  journey  in  July,  with  a  foresail  and  a  main 
sail, —  the  first  with  twelve,  and  the  last  with  four 
teen  feet,  lift ;  and  a  jib.  Eight  men,  with  their 
baggage,  brought  her  gunwale  clown  within  four 
inches  of  the  water.  Notwithstanding  this,  we 
made  nearly  four  knots  ;  and  for  a  while  everything 
looked  promising ;  but  below  Anoatok,  which  is  five 
miles  southwest  of  Esquimau  Point,  we  found  that 
the  icebergs  came  in  close  to  the  land,  and  no  longer 
held  off  the  pack.  Our  lead  was  closed. 

After  beating  about  for  a  while  in  search  of  an 
opening,  we  drew  up,  much  disappointed,  alongside 
of  a  lump  of  old  ice,  which  was  about  twenly  yards 
square  and  thirty  feet  in  thickness.  Its  surface  lay 
about  four  feet  out  of  the  water;  and,  being  quite 
level,  afforded  a  good  camping-ground.  Upon  this 
table  we  unshipped  our  cargo;  and  Petersen  taking 
the  boat,  with  two  men,  pulled  up  to  a  little  berg 
near  which  we  had  observed  a  flock  of  unfledged 


CO  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

ducks.  He  returned  in  an  hour  with  eleven  birds, 
eight  of  which  made  us  a  good  supper. 

We  waited  here  until  late  in  the  evening,  hoping 
that  a  change  of  tide  would  open  a  passage ;  but  the 
pack  only  closed  tighter  and  tighter,  finally  compel 
ling  us  to  haul  our  boat  up  on  the  ice,  to  save  it 
from  being  crushed.  The  wind  still  blew  from  the 
north-northeast,  bitterly  cold;  temperature  15°.  At 
ten  o'clock  we  pitched  the  tent  and  turned  in. 

Petersen  had  the  morning  watch,  and  went  on 
shore  to  observe  the  ice.  At  first  everything  re 
mained  as  it  was  the  evening  before;  an  apparently 
endless  collection  of  immensely  heavy  floes  were 
locked  against  the  capes  of  Refuge  Harbor.  Sud 
denly  something  appeared  to  give  way.  First  a  few 
pools  of  water  were  visible;  then  lead  after  lead 
opened  in  every  direction  through  the  pack.  In  a 
little  while  the  ice  had  spread  itself  out  over  the  sea, 
and  was  moving  off  to  the  west  and  south.  Peter- 
sen  watched  the  shifting  scene  until  he  became 
satisfied  that  the  change  was  permanent.  Then 
running  quickly  down  the  hill,  he  cried  to  us  from 
the  shore,  « Haste !  haste !  the  lead  opens."  He 
was  just  in  time  to  spring  aboard  the  frozen  raft  on 
which  we  had  taken  refuge,  as  it  moved  away. 

We  were  out  of  our  blankets  and  buffaloes  in  a 
twinkling.  The  Hope  was  quickly  launched  and 
stowed.  While  this  was  being  done,  the  cook  had 
prepared  a  has+y  breakfast,  which  being  more  hastily 
swallowed,  we  dropped  down  into  the  boat,  and, 
with  all  sails  set,  ran  off'  before  the  wind  for  the 
capes  of  Refuge  Harbor. 

The  movements  of  these  ice-fields  are  as  strange 


AFLOAT.  — LIFE-BOAT  BAY.  Cl 

as  Ihey  are  rapid.  We  started  from  Esquimau 
Point  with  every  prospect  of  an  unobstructed  pas 
sage,  and  before  we  had  gone  six  miles  the  lead  was 
closed.  So  it  remained  during  the  day.  In  a  few 
hours  the  wind  hauled  around  two  points  to  the  east, 
and  the  whole  aspect  of  things  was  changed.  The 
ice  began  to  move ;  the  floes  separated  ;  the  cracks 
widened  ;  until  finally  there  was  no  barrier  at  all ; 
and  in  an  open  sea,  dotted  only  here  and  there  by 
a  floe,  we  were  spinning  down  the  coast  at  the  rate 
of  four  knots  an  hour. 

In  three  hours  we  left  behind  us  the  brown  knobby 
bluffs  which  form  the  horns  of  Refuge  Harbor;  and 
in  another  hour  we  were  close  under  the  granite  wall 
of  Cape  Hatherton.  Then  opened  the  low  lands  of 
Life-boat  Bay,  and  behind  these  the  dark  stratified 
cliffs  supporting  an  extensive  table-land  which,  ele 
vated  a  thousand  feet  above  the  ocean,  stretches 
away  far  into  the  interior. 

Life-boat  Bay  is  a  broad  shallow  arm  of  the  sea. 
It  is  studded  on  its  northern  side  with  little  islands; 
while  its  eastern  shore  is  cut  into  numerous  coves 
or  bights,  by  low  rocky  points.  On  the  main  land, 
two  miles  northeast  from  Lyttleton  Island,  and  six 
miles  south  of  Cape  Hatherton,  at  the  head  of  the 
most  southern  of  these  coves,  lay  the  Francis'  me 
tallic  life-boat,  left  by  Dr.  Kane  in  August  1S53, 
which  was  to  form  the  second  vessel  of  our  fleet. 
Of  this  boat  we  were  now  in  search. 

We  made  good  progress  for  nearly  an  hour  after 
rounding  Cape  Hatherton,  having,  during  that  time, 
passed  about  three  miles  of  the  coast,  and  we  were 
congratulating  ourselves  that  all  was  free,  when  the 


62  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

look-out  cried,  "  ice  ahead  ! "  There  it  was,  sure 
enough,  about  a  mile  before  us, —  a  long  white  line, 
against  which  the  surf  was  breaking. 

We  ran  down  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  it, 
hoping  all  the  time  that  we  should  find  a  lead ;  but 
no  opening  could  anywhere  be  seen.  The  pack  was 
jammed  tight  together,  and  against  the  soul  hern 
shore  of  the  bay  ;  and  stretching  off  to  the  southwest, 
it  seemed  to  block  up  the  channel  between  Lyttle- 
ton  Island  and  the  main  land. 

The  course  of  the  boat  was  changed  to  the  west, 
and,  although  the  wind  was  increasing,  we  deter 
mined  to  run  outside  the  island  and  endeavor  to 
reach  the  cove  from  the  south  ;  but  here,  again,  we 
were  headed  off;  a  tongue  of  the  pack  stretched  up 
to  the  north  as  far  as  we  could  see.  To  haul  close 
on  the  wind  and  run  up  the  edge  of  the  ice  was  out 
of  the  question.  With  a  less  heavily  laden  boat 
this  could  easily  have  been  accomplished ;  but  al 
ready  we  were  shipping  much  water,  with  the  wind 
on  the  quarter.  Two  points  more  around  must 
swamp  us.  A  sea  breaking  over  the  gunwale  con 
vinced  us  of  the  danger  of  the  attempt,  and  again 
the  boat  was  headed  south. 

It  became  now  evident  that  we  were  in  great 
jeopardy.  We  had  run  down  into  a  bight,  with  a 
lee-shore  to  the  east,  and  ice  to  the  south  and  west. 
We  were  in  the  bend  of  a  great  horseshoe. 

There  was  no  time  to  get  out  the  oars  and  pull 
up  to  windward;  the  boat  could  not  have  lived  long 
enough  to  get  her  head  around  to  the  waves.  The 
cargo  was  piled  upon  the  thwarts,  and  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  would  scarcely  have  sufficed  to  clear  them. 


IN  JEOPARDY.  63 

Something  must  be  done,  and  that  quickly.  The 
wind  increased  in  violence,  the  waves  rolled  higher 
and  higher.  We  could  only  run  down  upon  the  ice 
and  trust  to  luck.  Choosing  a  point  to  the  south 
west,  where  the  pack  looked  weakest,  we  brailed*  up 
the  mainsail,  took  a  hasty  reef  in  the  foresail,  hauled 
in  the  jib,  and  ran  for  it.  John  took  the  steering 
oar.  Petersen  conned  the  boat  from  the  forecastle, 
Stephenson  held  the  sheet,  Bonsall  stood  by  the  brail 
of  the  foresail,  and  the  rest  of  us  took  whatever  of 
boat-hooks  and  poles  we  could  lay  hands  on,  to 
"  fend  off." 

The  boat  bounded  away.  "  See  any  opening, 
Petersen?"  "No,  sir!"  An  anxious  five  minutes 
followed.  "I  see  what  looks  like  a  lead;  we  must 
try  for  it."  "  Give  the  word,  Petersen."  On  flew 
the  boat.  «  Let  her  fall  off  a  little  —  off!  —  Ease  off 
the  sheet  —  so  —  steady  !  —  A  little  more  off —  so ! 
—  Steady  there  —  steady,  as  she  goes !  "  Our  skilful 
pilot  was  running  us  through  a  narrow  lead  which 
terminated  in  a  little  bight,  where  the  water  was, 
fortunately,  smooth.  We  were  beginning  to  hope 
that  it  would  carry  us  through  the  pack,  when  he 
cried  out,  "  It's  a  blind  lead  !  "  "  Tight  everywhere  ?" 
"I  see  no  opening!"  "There's  a  crack  to  wind 
ward."  "  Can't  make  it !  —  Let  go  the  sheet  —  brail 
up  —  fend  off!"  Thump,  crash,  push.  The  stem 
struck  fair,  and  the  force  of  the  blow  was  broken  by 
the  poles.  In  an  instant  all  hands  sprang  out  upon 
the  floe.  The  boat  did  not  appear  to  have  been 
seriously  damaged. 

Our  harbor  was  only  temporary.  The  ice  was  in 
rapid  motion,  and  in  a  moment  the  whole  face  of 


64  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

things  about  us  was  changed.  A  large  floe,  which 
had  kept  off  the  waves,  commenced  to  revolve.  In 
few  minutes  there  was  only  a  tongue,  a  few  feet 
wide,  to  protect  us  from  the  surf.  The  ice  pressed 
close  upon  the  boat ;  the  spray  dashed  over  our 
head?.  The  cargo  was  unshipped  as  quickly  as  pos 
sible,  and  the  Hope  was  hauled  up  in  time  to  save 
her.  The  stores  were  next  tumbled  into  a  heap,  out 
of  the  reach  of  the  spray.  This  had  scarcely  been 
done,  when  the  floe  broke  in  two.  The  crack  open 
ing  rapidly,  separated  the  Hope  from  her  cargo. 
Here  was  a  dilemma,  and  it  promised  to  be  a  seri 
ous  one ;  but,  luckily,  the  piece  upon  which  the 
boat  stood  was  caught  by  another  drifting  mass, 
which  slewed  it  around  and  tongued  it  upon  a  cor 
ner  of  the  field  from  which  it  had  been  detached. 
The  boat  was  quickly  run  over;  and,  with  thankful 
hearts,  we  now  saw,  what  we  had  no  reason  to  ex 
pect  at  any  time  during  the  last  fifteen  minutes, 
all  of  our  valuables  together  in,  at  least,  temporary 
safety.  The  whole  pack  was  moving,  grinding, 
squeezing,  and  closing.  Presently,  a  large  floe  re 
volved  to  the  eastward  and  settled  down  against  the 
field  upon  which  we  had  taken  refuge.  In  half  an 
hour  there  was  no  open  water  within  a  hundred 
yards  of  us. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

A   GLOOMY  NIGHT. 

EVERYTHING  now  appearing  to  be  secure,  Bonsall 
and  myself,  accompanied  by  two  of  the  men,  set  off 
over  the  ice  to  try  to  reach  the  life-boat  on  foot. 
The  head  of  the  cove  where  it  lay  was  distant  two 
miles  ;  we  were  at  about  the  same  distance  from  Lyt- 
tleton  Island.  The  floes  were  tightly  packed,  and 
we  found  no  difficulty  in  accomplishing  our  purpose. 
The  depot  was  reached  in  an  hour. 

It  remained  undisturbed  ;  evidently  not  having 
been  discovered  by  the  natives.  The  boat  was 
turned  bottom  up,  and  under  it  lay  the  articles  de 
posited  there  by  Dr.  Kane.  These  were,  besides  the 
oars  and  sail,  two  barrels  of  bread,  one  of  pork,  and 
another  of  beef;  about  thirty  pounds  of  rice,  the 
same  quantity  of  sugar,  a  saucepan,  an  empty  keg, 
a  gallon  can  of  alcohol,  a  bale  of  blankets,  an  ice 
anchor,  an  ice  chisel,  a  gun,  a  hatchet,  a  few  small 
poles,  and  some  pieces  of  wood. 

We  could  not  take  much  of  this  provision,  since 
we  were  compelled  to  carry  everything  upon  our 
backs.  We,  however,  selected  such  articles  as  were 
most  needed,  and  as  could  be  most  readily  trans 
ported  in  this  manner.  These  were,  one  barrel  of 
bread,  the  saucepan  filled  with  sugar,  ten  pounds 

6* 


GG  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

of  rice,  the  empty  keg,  the  hatchet,  the  gun,  and  the 
boat's  equipment,  including  the  ice  anchor  and  chisel, 
two  poles,  and  a  small  bundle  of  wood.  We  needed 
badly  some  of  the  pork  for  fuel,  since  our  slush  keg 
was  getting  low ;  but  we  could  not  take  it. 

Ascending  the  hill-side  a  little  way,  we  observed 
that  the  eastern  shore  of  Lyttleton  Island  was  mainly 
free  from  ice,  while  the  pack  was  locked  upon  its 
northern  cape,  and  stretched  up  the  west  and  north 
as  far  as  we  could  see.  From  the  beach  where  we 
stood,  to  the  open  water  of  this  island,  was  about  a 
mile.  It  was  fully  double  that  distance  to  where  our 
companions  lay  with  the  Hope.  . 

Since  we  must  drag  the  boat  and  carry  the  cargo, 
we  chose  the  shortest  distance,  intending  to  reach 
Lyttleton  Island,  and  there  await  the  breaking  of  the 
storm,  the  loosening  of  the  pack,  and -the  arrival  of 
the  Hope.  The  boat  was  run  down  over  the  ice-foot 
and  dragged  out  upon  the  floes.  The  barrel  of  bread 
was  swung  upon  an  oar  and  carried  by  John  and 
Godfrey.  The  smaller  articles,  oars,  sail,  &c.,  were 
brought  on  as, we  could  manage  them. 

The  boat  was  light,  and  had  the  track  been 
smooth  we  should  have  progressed  well  enough ;  but 
after  leaving  the  land-ice  our  route  lay  over  a  closely 
jammed  pack  of  pieces  of  ice,  of  almost  every  shape 
and  size;  some  of  them  being  a  foot  .out  of  water, 
others  ten  feet.  One  moment  we  were  hauling  the 
boat  up  a  precipice,  the  next  letting  her  down  over 
another.  Added  to  this  difficulty  was  the  feeling  of 
constant  insecurity,  for  it  would  have  been  perfect ly 
in  character  for  the  whole  raft  suddenly  to  take  flight 
to  seaward.  We  were  consequently  compelled  to 


LYTTLETON  ISLAND.  67 

keep  onr  different  articles  as  near  together  as  possi 
ble.  First  we  carried  forward  the  boat  about  a  hun 
dred  yards,  then  piece  by  piece  the  cargo  and  equip 
ment.  The  same  operation  being  repeated  about 
a  dozen  times,  we  reached  finally,  in  six  hours,  the 
open  water. 

By  this  time  it  was  blowing  a  regular  gale,  still 
from  the  northeast.  The  pack  had  partially  broken, 
and  some  loose  pieces  were  drifting  rapidly  down 
through  the  channel.  To  work  between  these  driv 
ing  masses  was  an  operation  attended  with  no  little 
difficulty.  Once  we  came  near  being  crushed. 

Lyttleton  Island,  which  was  at  length  reached, 
is  the  largest  of  the  granite  knobs  which  lie  in  a 
cluster  at  the  south  side  of  Life-boat  Bay.  It  is 
about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  and  is 
separated  from  the  main  land  by  a  channel  about 
half  a  mile  in  width.  We  pulled  down  this  channel 
to  the  southwest,  and  sought  a  lee  on  the  southern 
side  ;  but  no  lee  could  we  anywhere  find.  Reaching 
the  extreme  point  we  were  met  by  a  gust  of  wind 
which  came  howling  through  the  narrow  strait  sep 
arating  Lyttleton  Island  from  McGary's  Rock,  driv 
ing  us  back  to  face  a  similar  blast  which  came  from 
the  other  side. 

Everything  gave  promise  of  a  dirty  night.  The 
sky  was  overcast.  Light  clouds  went  flitting  wildly 
across  the  sky,  breaking  now  and  then  and  disclos 
ing  a  twinkling  star  of  the  first  or  second  magni 
tude.  It  was  not  dark,  for  the  sun  \vas  not  yet  fur 
beneath  the  horizon  ;  but  a  dull,  gloomy  twilight. 
Already  we  were  wet  to  the  skin  with  the  dashing 
spray.  The  mercury  stood  at  22°,  and  the  water 


68  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

was  freezing  upon  our  clothes.  We  must  either 
land  on  the  island,  or  run  before  the  wind  down 
under  Cape  Ohlsen,  five  miles  south.  This  last 
would  carry  us  too  far  from  our  comrades  of  the 
Hope,  and  we  determined  to  land  on  the  island  if 
possible.  Our  metallic  boat  would  stand  a  good 
deal  of  thumping.  There  were  no  breakers;  but  the 
swell,  which  came  in  from  the  west,  made  the  sea 
anything  but  smooth.  With  a  wooden  boat  it  would 
have  been  dangerous  to  approach  the  rocks. 

The  shore  was  steep,  almost  perpendicular ;  and 
it  was  some  time  before  we  found  a  place  which 
offered  the  least  chance  for  executing  our  intention. 
At  length  we  discovered  a  little  cove,  or  rather  a  cleft 
in  the  rock,  about  twenty  feet  in  width  and  twice  as 
deep.  The  rocks  to  the  right  and  behind  were  verti 
cal  ;  but  the  cleft  ran  off  to  the  left,  and  there  the 
rock  sloped  gradually  upward.  If  we  could  strike 
this  inclined  plane,  by  a  fortunate  turn  of  the  boat 
after  entering,  we  should  be  landed  in  safety.  The 
boat  was  headed  square  for  the  opening,  the  men  gave 
way  on  their  oars,  and  we  rode  in  on  the  top  of  a 
swell  which,  as  it  retreated,  left  us  high  and  dry. 
Next  moment  all  hands  sprang  out,  and,  seizing  the 
boat  by  the  gunwale,  hauled  her  out  of  danger. 

As  we  came  across  the  ice,  John  had  discovered 
a  wounded  duck  sitting  behind  a  hummock,  and 
secured  her  with  an  oar.  A  fire  was  kindled  in  a 
crevice  in  the  rock;  the  saucepan  was  half  filled 
with  sea-water,  and  the  four  quarters  of  the  unfor 
tunate  eider  were  soon  boiling  in  it.  The  head  was 
knocked  out  of  the  bread-barrel,  and  eight  biscuits 
were  added  to  the  contents  of  the  pot. 


BLOWING  A  GALE.  69 

We  were  too  cold  and  too  nearly  famished  to  wait 
with  much  patience,  and  the  stew  was  speedily  pro 
nounced  done.  Plates  and  spoons  we  had  none,  so 
each  one  handled  his  share  of  the  duck,  and  then 
we  took  turns  with  the  lid  for  the  soup. 

This  hot  meal  warmed  us  up  a  little,  but  with  it 
vanished  our  stock  of  comforts.  With  a  cup  of  coffee, 
or  even  tea,  we  should  have  made  out  very  well. 

There  was  a  gloomy  prospect  for  the  night.  No 
where  could  we  find  protection  against  the  wind, 
which  not  only  swept  in  from  the  sea,  but  came 
furiously  down  upon  us  through  the  rocky  gorges. 
We  had  not  as  much  as  a  blanket  to  cover  us, 
and  the  cold  gusts  blew  most  cruelly  through  our 
water-soaked  cloth  coats  and  canvas  pantaloons. 
We  clambered  about  in  the  darkness  along  the 
rocky  ledge,  under  a  great  black  wall,  hunting  in 
vain  for  a  lea ;  but  no  sooner  had  we  found  a  place 
which  seemed  to  offer  us  protection,  than  the  wind 
shifted.  Indeed,  it  seemed  to  blow,  in  one  and  the 
same  minute,  from  every  quarter  of  the  heavens, 
north,  south,  east,  and  west;  and  when  it  could  not 
get  at  us  from  either  of  these  directions,  it  rolled 
down  over  the  cliffs  and  fell  upon  us  like  an  ava 
lanche.  We  returned  to  the  place  where  we  had 
landed,  and  erected  an  extempore  tent.  One  end  of 
an  oar  was  thrust  into  a  crack  in  the  rock,  the  other 
end  was  supported  upon  the  barrel.  Over  this  was 
spread  the  sail.  After  securing  the  corners  with 
heavy  stones  we  crawled  in,  but  we  thus  obtained 
only  a  sorry  protection.  The  wind  came  in  on  every 
side.  Bonsall  and  Godfrey  finally  gave  way  under 
the  pressure  of  fatigue  and  long  exposure,  and  shiv« 


70  AN  AECTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

ered  themselves  to  sleep.  I  would  have  given  much 
to  be  able  to  forget,  in  like  manner,  all  care  and 
trouble;  but  it  was  out  of  the  question.  Unable 
longer  to  bear  the  cold,  .1  drew  myself  out  from 
the  sail,  determined  to  thaw  my  frozen  blood  by  a 
run  about  the  island.  John  followed,  muttering 
something  like,  "  I  believe  they  could  sleep  with  their 
heads  in  a  tub  of  water." 

I  was  nearly  blown  off  as  I  clambered  up  the  steep 
rocks,  but  I  reached  at  length  the  level  table  above, 
and  ran  to  and  fro  from  east  to  west,  and  from  west 
to  east,  for  about  an  hour,  until  I  had  got  pretty  well 
warmed ;  I  then  faced  about  and  ran  in  the  teeth  of 
the  gale  to  the  north  cape  of  the  island.  To  the 
north,  west,  and  south,  the  sea  was  dotted  with 
bergs,  loose  hummocks,  or  streams  of  pack-ice, 
against  which  the  waves  were  lashing  themselves 
into  frosty  foam.  To  the  northeast  I  could  trace 
the  outline  of  the  solid  pack  in  one  long  line  of  dash 
ing  spray.  There  I  had  left  four  comrades.  There 
they  must  have  remained,  but  the  mist  and  darkness 
were  too  great  to  permit  me  to  detect  them.  It  was 
now  about  midnight. 

I  took  another  turn  about  the  island  and  came 
back  to  the  same  spot.  The  wind  was  blowing 
less  fiercely ;  the  clouds  opened,  and  moved  sullenly 
away;  and  the  stars  shone  out  in  unobstructed  beau 
ty.  The  pack  had  separated,  and  great  streams  of  ice 
were  pouring  down  through  the  channel  to  the  east 
ward,  as  through  a  sluice-gate.  I  went  down  to  a 
point  where  I  could  command  a  full  view  of  the  chan 
nel  and  watched  every  piece  of  ice,  expecting  to  see 
the  Hope  and  her  crew  adrift.  I  had  not  looked 


LOOKING  FOR  THE  "HOPE."  71 

long  before  I  discovered  something  dark  upon  one  of 
the  floating  fields.  It  was  a  man,  and  I  soon  made 
out  that  it  was  John.  I  called  to  him,  but  he  either 
did  not  hear,  or  did  not  heed  me.  The  tumult  might 
well  have  drowned  my  voice.  What  he  was  doing 
there,  or  how  he  had  got  there,  I  could  not  imagine. 
He  was  standing  in  the  middle  of  the  crystal  raft, 
with  nothing  around  him  but  the  raging  waters 
which  were  breaking  over  it.  Directly  the  floe  floated 
into  the  midst  of  a  long  stream  of  broken  masses. 
The  moment  the  collision  came  he  sprang  forward, 
and  then  away  he  went  bounding  from  floe  to  floe, 
springing  crack  after  crack  with  the  fleetness  of  a 
deer.  Once  again  I  saw  him  adrift  upon  an  isolated 
field,  and  thus  he  must  have  floated  several  minutes, 
before  the  pack  closed  up.  I  watched  him  until  he 
was  lost  to  sight  in  the  mist  and  spray  and  dark 
ness. 

I  had  for  some  time  entertained  serious  apprehen 
sions  for  the  safety  of  our  comrades  with  the  Hope, 
and  these  apprehensions  were  sharpened  by  this 
incident.  With  these  fears  were  now  mingled 
anxiety  for  the  safety  of  John.  It  was  evident  that 
he  was  not  upon  the  ice  by  any  accident,  but  de 
signedly  ;  and  I  could  imagine  nothing  that  would 
induce  him  to  run  such  a  dare-devil's  race,  but  to 
render  assistance  to  Petersen  and  his  party.  He 
was  making  directly  for  the  point  where  we  had  left 
them,  as  nearly  as  the  elements  would  allow ;  and  I 
could  give  no  other  explanation  of  his  conduct  than 
that  he  had  detected  the  party,  had  seen  them  in 
distress,  and  had  run  this  risk  to  help  them. 

Bonsall  and  Godfrey  were  at  length  frozen  out  of 


72  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

the  tent  and  joined  me  on  the  hill.  I  communicated 
to  them  my  fears  respecting  the  party.  I  sent  God 
frey  to  watch  to  seaward.  Bonsali  went  to  the 
north  cape,  and  I  remained  in  my  old  position.  The 
night  wore  on  ;  daylight  came  slowly  back ;  the 
wind  died  away  to  a  fresh  breeze ;  the  sea  was 
going  down;  the  spray  leapt  less  wildly;  yet  noth 
ing  could  we  see  of  the  boat. 

At  length  a  change  of  tide  brought  a  change  of 
scene ;  the  ice  was  set  in  motion  ;  the  pack,  which 
had  so  closely  hugged  the  land,  was  loosened ;  and 
it  stretched  its  long  arms  out,  over  the  water  to  the 
westward.  Broad  leads  ran  through  the  body  of  it. 
Bonsall's  quick  eye  first  detected  something  dark 
moving  upon  the  water.  "  I  see  the  boat,"  he 
shouted  to  me,  —  "  Where  away  ?  "  —  "  Coming 
down  through  the  in-shore  lead."  There  she  was, 
with  all  sail  set,  bearing  directly  for  the  island.  By 
eight  o'clock  her  party  brought  up  on  the  south  side 
of  our  encampment.  I  counted  them  as  they  floated 
by  :  one,  two,  three,  four,  five  —  John  was  there. 

The  swell  was  still  too  high  to  permit  them  to 
touch  the  rocks  with  their  frail  boat ;  we  therefore 
launched  the  metallic  boat,  and  following  them  under 
oars,  pulled  around  behind  Cape  Ohlsen.  Here  was 
found  a  snug  little  harbor  with  a  low  shingly  beach. 
The  cargo  was  unshipped,  and  the  boats  were 
hauled  up  at  half-past  eleven  o'clock.  The  sun's 
slanting  rays  shone  directly  in  upon  us  from  the 
south ;  the  mercury  went  up  to  28°.  Not  a  breath 
of  air  rippled  the  water.  No  surf  beat  upon  the 
shore.  What  a  contrast  to  the  tumultuous  scenes 
of  yesterday !  From  a  little  stream  of  melted  snow 


RE-UNION.  73 

which  trickled  down  the  mountain  side,  we  filled  our 
kettles ;  the  lamp  was  fired ;  and  in  an  hour  and  a 
half  the  cook  had  ready  for  us  a  good  pot  of  coffee, 
and  a  stew  of  the  young  eiders  which  were  left  from 
the  day  before ;  to  which  were  added  some  pieces 
of  pork,  and  a  young  burgomaster  gull,  which  had 
been  shot  on  the  way  from  Lyttleton  Island.  While 
this  substantial  breakfast  was  being  eaten,  we  inter 
changed  our  stories  of  the  night's  adventures. 

Our  friends  had  had  a  fearful  night.  Bad  as 
had  been  our  fortune  theirs  was  incomparably  worse. 
Soon  after  we  left  them,  the  protecting  floes  to  the 
north  shifted  their  position  ;  and  from  that  time  until 
the  storm  subsided,  they  were  frightfully  exposed. 
The  waves  rolled  in  upon  them,  frequently  breaking 
over  the  floe  on  which  they  were,  while  the  spray 
flew  over  them  continually.  They  wrapped  the 
bread-bags  in  a  piece  of  India-rubber  cloth,  and  thus 
kept  them  tolerably  dry  ;  but  everything  else  became 
thoroughly  soaked,  —  clothes,  buffaloes,  and  blank 
ets,  especially.  They  pitched  their  tent  and  tried  to 
get  some  rest,  but  the  water  very  soon  drowned  them 
out.  They  tried  to  cook  some  coffee,  but  the  spray 
extinguished  their  lamp.  They  were  thirty  hours 
without  water  to  drink,  and  during  all  that  time  they 
tasted  nothing  warm,  their  sole  provision  being  cold 
pork  and  bread,  Their  suffering  was  great,  and  our 
tale  sounded  tamely  enough  after  theirs. 

I  questioned  John  why  he  had  so  recklessly  ex 
posed  his  life  ;  he  "  wanted  to  see  what  had  be 
come  of  them."  He  did  not  see  them  when  he 
started  ;  had  no  certain  knowledge  as  to  where  they 
were ;  he  only  wanted  to  "  look  them  up." 

7 


CHAPTER  VII. 

HOUNDING    CAPE    ALEXANDER. 

IT  was  now  the  6th  of  September.  Eleven  daya 
had  been  occupied  in  making  about  seventy-five 
miles.  We  were  out  of  the  strait,  and  seemed  to  be 
free  of  the  ice.  Before  us  opened  Baffin  Bay,  dis 
closing  no  ice  except  here  and  there  a  straggling 
berg. 

In  these  arctic  waters,  channels  like  Smith  Strait 
are  the  first  to  become  locked  upon  the  closing  in  of 
the  winter,  and  the  last  to  break  up  in  the  summer  ; 
while  the  larger  bodies,  as  Baffin  Bay,  remain  mainly 
open  until  late  in  the  fall,  and  indeed  may  be  said 
never  to  close  completely.  The  centre  of  the  up 
per  limit  of  Baffin  Bay, 'the  "  North- Water"  of  the 
whalers,  continues  open  throughout  the  winter. 
About  Upernavik  the  sea  is  chiefly  free  from  ice  un 
til  late  in  October ;  while  the  Melville  Bay  pack,  to 
the  northward  of  Upernavik,  is  in  motion  throughout 
the  year.  These  facts  were  well  known  to  us  ;  and, 
although  the  winter  was  rapidly  setting  in,  we  con 
fidently  hoped  for  at  least  a  month  of  navigable 
season.  This  hope  was  greatly  heightened  as  we 
looked  out  upon  the  iceless  sea,  which  stretched 
away  to  the  south  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 


THE  NORTH  WATER.  75 

We  congratulated  ourselves  that  the  hardest  part  of 
the  journey  was  over,  and  we  seemed  to  have  some 
ground  for  anticipating  that  henceforth  all  would 
be  plain  sailing.  How  far  these  anticipations  were 
realized  will  be  seen  by  what  follows. 

With  more  spirit  than  had  been  shown  on  any 
previous  occasion,  our  people  prepared  for  what 
seemed  a  final  embarkation.  We  were  thus  occu 
pied  until  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  Hope 
needed  repairs  ;  the  repeated  straining  to  which  she 
had  been  subjected,  by  hauling  her  out  of  the  water, 
and  by  dragging  her  over  the  ice,  had  opened  her 
seams,  and  she  leaked  badly.  For  the  life-boat  we 
had  no  mast;  and  it  was  necessary  to  transfer  to  her 
the  mainmast  of  the  Hope.  John  made  for  her  a 
snug  little  jib.  Petersen,  whose  trade  had  been  that  of 
a  cooper,  and  who  was  an  excellent  mechanic,  acted 
as  carpenter.  The  step  of  the  foremast  of  the  Hope 
was  shifted  two  feet  further  aft,  her  seams  were  re- 
caulked,  and  the  holes  in  her  sides  were  repatcheds 
Those  who  could  not  assist  the  carpenter  and  sail- 
maker  in  these  operations,  were  at  first  engaged 
in  spreading  out  to  dry  our  water-soaked  clothing; 
which  being  done,  they  threw  themselves  upon  the 
rocks  to  rest  and  to  sleep.  We  were  all  worn  out 
with  the  last  thirty  hours'  constant  labor  and  ex 
posure ;  but  since  there  was  a  light  breeze  blowing 
outside,  we  could  not  afford  to  lose  time  by  camp 
ing. 

Everything  being  ready,  the  boats  were  launched 
and  stowed.  The  crews  were  distributed  evenly  be 
tween  them.  Petersen  took  the  whale-boat,  with 
Mr.  Sonntag,  George  Stephenson,  and  George  Whip- 


76  '         AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

pie  ;  and  I  the  life-boat,  with  Mr.  Bonsall,  John  Blake, 
and  William  Godfrey.  It  remained  only  to  name 
the  vessels.  It  was,  I  think,  Mr.  Bonsall  who  sug 
gested  "  Ironsides"  for  our  craft;  and  at  the  instance 
of  Mr.  Petersen,  "  Forlorn  Hope "  was  changed  to 
«  Good  Hope." 

We  pulled  out  from  under  the  land,  to  catch  the 
wind  which  still  blew  lightly  from  the  northeast; 
and  spreading  our  canvas  we  gave  three  lusty  cheers 
for  Upernavik,  and  stood  away  for  Cape  Alexander, 
which  was  fourteen  miles  distant.  A  watch  was  set 
in  each  boat.  Petersen  took  the  steering  oar  of  the 
Hope,  John  that  of  the  Ironsides,  and  the  rest  of  the 
crews  crawled  under  their  blankets  and  buffalo  robes. 

Soon  after  our  starting,  an  ominous  cloud  was  ob 
served  creeping  up  the  northern  sky.  As  it  spread 
itself  overhead,  the  wind  freshened,  and  after  flut 
tering  through  a  squall,  settled  into  a  heavy  blow. 
The  white-caps  multiplied  behind  us,  and  every 
thing  looked  suspicious;  but  whatever  might  be  our 
misgivings  as  to  the  fortune  in  store  for  us,  out  at 
sea  in  a  storm,  with  our  frail  heavily  laden  boats, 
we  could  do  nothing  but  hold  our  course,  and  take 
the  risks.  To  run  back  under  the  land  which  we 
had  just  left,  did  not  at  all  accord  with  our  tastes, 
nor  with  the  nature  of  our  undertaking.  Off  the 
larboard  bow  lay  a  long  line  of  iron-bound  coast, 
which  offered  no  sign  of  a  harbor.  Come  what 
might,  we  must  keep  on,  and  sink  or  swim  off  Cape 
Alexander. 

To  be  at  sea  in  a  snug  ship  with  a  deck  under 
your  feet,  the  wind  roaring  and  the  waves  breaking 
about  you,  is  a  pleasure,  and  as  the  vessel  bounds  for- 


THE  BOATS  OFF  THE  CAPE.  77 

xvard  one  scarcely  feels  that  he  is  not  in  the  most 
secure  place  in  ihe  world  ;  but  it  is  quite  a  different 
affair  in  an  open  boat  twenty  feet  long. 

As  we  ran  out  from  the  land,  we  obtained  a  fine 
view  of  Hartstene  Bay.  The  coast  which  bounds  it 
to  the  north  is  high  and  precipitous,  trending  a  little 
to  the  north  of  east,  and  terminating  in  a  large  glacier, 
about  twelve  miles  east  of  Cape  Ohlsen.  The  face 
of  this  glacier,  dimly  traceable  in  the  distance,  ap 
peared  to  be  about  three  miles  in  extent,  sloping 
backward  into  an  extensive  mer  de  glace.  To  the 
south  of  the  glacier  the  land  trends  nearly  parallel 
with  the  north  shore  for  three  or  four  miles,  when  it 
falls  off  to  the  south,  terminating  in  another  glacier 
larger  than  the  first,  which,  like  it,  sweeps  back  around 
the  base  of  the  mountains  into  the  same  glassy  sea. 
From  the  southern  extremity  of  this  glacier  the  coast 
runs  southwest,  presenting  an  almost  straight  line 
of  high,  vertical,  jagged  rocks,  which  end  in  the  no 
ble  headland  for  which  we  were  steering. 

Although  closely  watching  the  sheet,  while  John 
steered  and  Bonsall  and  Godfrey  slept,  I  was  yet  at 
leisure  to  enjoy  the  magnificent  scene  which  spread 
itself  before  me  as  we  approached  the  cape.  A  par 
helion  stood  in  the  sky  on  my  right  hand,  presenting 
a  perfect  image  of  the  sun  above,  and  a  faint  point 
of  light  on  either  side.  On  my  left  lay  the  before- 
mentioned  line  of  coast,  its  dark  front  contrasting 
grandly  with  the  white  sheet  of  ice  a  few  miles 
further  back,  which  seemed  to  be  in  the  act  of  pour 
ing  down  into  the  sea  from  some  great  inland  reser 
voir.  The  sandstone  rocks,  at  the  base  of  the  cliffs, 
were  worn  and  wasted  by  the  frost  and  breakers, 
7* 


78  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

and  looked  like  the  ruins  of  some  ancient  castle  or 
dismantled  fortress.  The  waves  which  tossed  the 
boat  about  seemed  to  be  at  play ;  and,  after  licking 
their  froth)  tongues  across  her  poop,  they  chased 
each  other  swiftly  to  the  shore,  where,  breaking 
through  the  breaches  in  the  wall,  they  threw  their 
s  low-white  caps  about  as  if  in  triumph  over  the 
ruins  that  their  revelries  had  made,  and  then  came 
roaring  down  again  into  the  sea. 

The  wind  continued  to  increase,  and  the  waves  1o 
roll  higher,  yet  we  reached  within  a  half  mile  of  the 
northern  extremity  of  the  cape  without  accident,  and 
shipping  little  water.  Here  the  current,  setting  rap 
idly  around  the  point,  had  produced  an  irregular  and 
chopping  sea.  It  became  necessary  to  shorten  sail ; 
we  could  not  hold  on  at  our  present  speed  through 
'such  uncertain  swells.  Mr.  Petersen  took  a  reef 
without  difficulty,  and  the  Hope,  admirably  con 
structed  for  a  heavy  sea-way,  doubled  the  cape  in 
gallant  style.  The  Ironsides  was  shorter,  and  much 
less  manageable.  Although  laden  with  the  heaviest 
articles  of  our  cargo,  she  rode,  in  consequence  of 
her  large  air-chambers,  high  out  of  the  water;  and 
the  stern -chamber  embarrassed  the  steersman.  The 
watch  was  called  up  to  lend  a  hand.  The  halyards 
were  lowered  away ;  but  the  sprit  was  found  to  be  a 
foot  too  long,  and  in  the  effort  to  shorten  it  by  hitching 
it  up,  the  point  dropped  from  its  thimble,  the  stick 
fell  across  the  boat,  and  the  sail  flapped  loosely  in 
the  wind.  Bonsall  attempted  to  gather  up  the  flying 
canvas,  Godfrey  grasped  after  the  sprit,  and  John, 
instead  of  attending  to  his  own  business,  watched 
them  both.  His  oar  flew  out  of  the  water,  and  the 


THE  LIFE-BOAT.  79 

boat,  no  longer  under  its  control,  broached  to.  The 
next  wave  broke  amidships  and  filled  us.  The  air- 
chambers,  which  had  hitherto  made  the  boat  so 
crank,  now  saved  us  from  sinking.  The  steersman 
was  knocked  down  from  his  seat,  and  before  he 
could  regain  his  oar,  and  bring  the  boat  into  the 
wind,  sea  after  sea  had  broken  over  us. 

Finding  that  they  were  not  absolutely  drowned, 
and  that  nothing  worse  could  happen  than  a  good 
ducking,  the  men  returned  to  their  posts,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  the  sail  was  reefed  and  set,  and  the 
boat  righted.  The  increased  load  which  she  now 
carried  sank  her  lower  in  the  water,  and  in  spite  of 
all  our  efforts,  there  remained  an  unwelcome  cargo; 
for,  as  fast  as  we  bailed  out  one  portion,  another 
poured  in.  Discouraged  at  length  by  our  fruitless 
efforts  to  get  her  free,  we  gave  up  the  attempt ; 
and  being  now  satisfied  that  the  life-boat  would  not 
go  down,  wre  held  on  to  the  mast  and  gunwale  to 
prevent  the  seas  from  washing  us  overboard,  and  in 
this  manner  drifted  around  the  cape.  Here  we  were 
met  by  our  consort.  Her  crew,  fearful  that  we  had 
swamped,  were  gallantly  beating  up  in  smoother 
water  to  our  assistance. 

It  was  dead  calm  under  the  cape.  After  bailing 
out  some  of  the  water,  we  took  in  the  sails,  unship 
ped  the  mast,  and  pulled  over  to  Sutherland  Island 
in  search  of  a  harbor.  This  little  rock  lies  about 
three  miles  to  the  southeast  of  Cape  Alexander.  It 
was  found  to  be  precipitous  on  its  norlheru  and 
eastern  sides,  and  unprotected  to  the  south  and  west 
from  the  winds  and  waves  which  eddied  around  the 
capo.  Finding  no  safe  anchorage,  we  were  com- 


80  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

pelled  to  pull  back.  .By  this  time  our  people  had 
become  almost  disheartened.  We  had  been  exposed 
to  cutting  blasts  during  the  two  hours  which  were 
occupied  in  circumnavigating  the  island  ;  the  gun 
had  sunk  beneath  the  horizon,  and  it  had  grown 
quite  dark.  To  make  the  annoyance  worse,  a  cold 
sleety  rain  began  to  fall.  The  thermometer  stood  at 
21°.  Our  clothing  was  stiffening  on  us  like  paste 
board.  Our  cramped  limbs  were  almost  rigid  ;  and 
the  long  continued  exertion,  under  circumstances  so 
depressing,  ha^l  nearly  exhausted  our  strength.  It 
was  as  much  as  we  could  do  to  stem  the  wind  and 
waves,  as  we  rounded  the  north  side  of  the  island 
and  struck  out  for  the  main  land.  The  gale,  broken 
by  the  cape,  fell  upon  us  in  fitful  gusts,  which  often 
drove  us  to  leeward.  Then  came  a  lull ;  the  men 
"gave  way"  with  all  the  force  which  their  paralyzed 
muscles  could  command;  and  we  recovered  our  lost 
ground,  and  gained  a  few  boat-lengths  before  the 
next  squall  struck  us. 

Thus  we  continued  to  oscillate,  gaining  a  little 
with  every  lull,  until  at  last  we  were  once  more  in 
smooth  water;  and  soon  after,  we  lay  under  the  high 
wall  of  the  protecting  headland.  Then  we  crawled 
slowly  down  the  coast,  more  for  the  purpose  of  keep 
ing  ourselves  from  freezing,  than  with  the  hope  of 
finding  a  landing ;  for  the  shore  appeared  to  be 
everywhere  precipitous.  Better  fortune,  however, 
awaited  us  than  we  anticipated.  We  had  not  gone 
more  than  two  miles  when  we  came  suddenly  upon 
a  low  point  of  granite  rock,  behind  which  lay  the 
snuggest  of  little  harbors.  A  faint  cheer  broke  in 
voluntarily  from  the  boat's  crew  when  I  announced 


A  HARBOR!  81 

to  them  the  discovery.  —  "  Here  we  are,  Petersen  ;  a 
harbor !  A  harbor,  boys  ;  a  harbor  !  Give  way  ! 
give  way !  " 

We  were  soon  ashore  ;  and  as  we  looked  out  from 
the  rocks  on  the  foaming  sea,  and  listened  to  the 
moaning  wind  as  it  fell  over  the  cliffs  above  us,  and 
to  the  breakers  thundering  against  the  coast,  we  had 
reason  to  be  thankful  that  we  were  once  again  on 
ten  a  firma.  The  Ironsides  was  hauled  upon  the 
beach  and  capsized,  to  free  her  of  her  load  of  water. 
Petersen  anchored  the  Hope  with  a  couple  of  heavy 
stones.  Having  no  dry  clothing  to  put  on,  we  ran 
about  until  we  were  a  little  warmed  and  dried ;  and 
then,  pitching  the  tent,  we  spread  over  us  our  water- 
soaked  buffalo,  and  slept  away  fatigue  and  disap 
pointment. 

Everything  in  the  Ironsides  was  thoroughly  wet. 
Among  the  articles  of  food  were  a  two-barrel  bag 
of  bread  and  our  large  bag  of  coffee.  The  cargo 
qf  the  Hope  was  as  dry  as  when  put  on  board  at 
Cape  Ohlsen.  She  had  behaved  admira-bly,  and 
had  weathered  the  gale  quite  comfortably.  She 
shipped  more  water  through  her  leaky  sides  than 
over  her  gunwale. 

The  wind  lulled  a  little  in  the  night,  but  rose  in 
the  morning,  and  increased  again  to  a  gale.  -The 
storm  was  too  heavy  to  allow  us  to  put  to  sea. 
The  wind  had  hauled  around  to  the  .north,  and  the 
swell  came  into  our  harbor.  The  anchorage  of  the 
Hope  being  thus  rendered  insecure,  she  also  was 
dragged  upon  the  beach.  Our  wet  cargo  was  spread 
out  upon  the  stones  to  dry;  and  we  awaited  with 
much  anxiety  the  breaking  of  the  gale,  which  con- 


82  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

tinned  with  unabated  force  through  the  day.  The 
clouds  had,  however,  cleared  away,  the  sun  shone 
brightly,  and  the  thermometer  went  up  to  30D.  We 
seized  the  opportunity  afforded  by  our  detention  to 
obtain  the  rest  which  we  so  much  needed.  A  little 
blue  fox,  doubtless  attracted  by  curiosity,  came  near 
the  mouth  of  the  tent,  and,  perching  himself  upon  a 
rock,  set  up  his  wild  but  cheery  cry.  Petersen,  with 
an  eye  to  the  pot,  fired  at  him,  and  sent  him,  badly 
wounded,  up  the  hill  to  die  under  a  pile  of  stones  to 
which  he  escaped. 

Toward  evening  the  wind  abated  a  little,  yet  the 
waves  rolled  too  high  to  make  it  safe  for  the  boats; 
and  we  reluctantly  found  ourselves  compelled  to 
spend  another  night  where  we  lay.  The  discovery 
of  the  fox  gave  us  hope  that  others  might  be  found, 
and  the  hunters  were  busy,  during  the  afternoon  and 
evening,  in  clambering  over  the  rocky  hills  ;  but  they 
all  returned  unsuccessful.  There  were  no  signs  of 
life  about  us. 

While  some  of  the  party  were  thus  occupied, 
others  were  rambling  about,  seeking  adventure,  or 
gratifying  their  curiosity.  The  coast  here  trends 
nearly  due  east,  and,  at  about  two  miles  from  our 
encampment,  terminates  in  a  glacier.  This  stream 
of  ice  was  visited  by  me  in  the  afternoon,  and  by 
Bonsall  and  Sonntag  later  in  the  day.  It  was  the 
first  glacier  protruding  into  the  ocean  which  I  had 
had  opportunity  to  inspect  closely ;  and  although 
small  compared  with  other  similar  formations,  it  had 
nevertheless  all  their  principal  characteristics.  It 
presented  to  the  sea  a  convex  mural  face  seventy 
feet  in  height  and  about  two  juiles  m  length,  its  cen- 


A   GLACIER.  83 

tre  projecting  into  the  water  beyond  the  general  line 
of  the  coast  to  the  east  and  west  of  it.  Its  surface 
rose  by  an  abrupt  angle  to  the  height  of  about  two 
hundred  feet,  and,  sloping  thence  backward  at  a  less 
inclination,  seemed  to  be  connected  with  an  exten 
sive  mer  de  glace  above.  From  where  I  stood,  I 
observed  several  fissures  or  crevasses,  apparently  of 
great  depth,  running  vertically  through  the  body  of 
it,  and  extending  far  up  into  its  interior;  and  others 
more  shallow  which  seemed  to  have  been  formed  by 
the  streams  of  melted  snow  which  poured  in  cata 
racts  down  into  the  sea.  I  was  struck  with  its 
viscous  appearance,  as  I  had  been  before  with  that 
of  the  inland  glacier  visited  by  me  in  the  autumn 
of  1853,  to  which  allusion  has  been  made  in  a  for 
mer  chapter.  u 

Parallel  with  its  convex  face  ran  a  succession  of 
indistinctly  marked  lines,  which  gave  it  the  aspect 
of  a  semifluid  mass,  moving  downward  upon  an  in 
clined  surface;  and  this  idea  was  more  forcibly  im 
pressed  upon  me  by  its  appearance  about  the  rocks 
on  either  side.  Over  these  it  seemed  to  have  flowed  ; 
and,  fitting  accurately  into  all  their  inequalities,  it 
gave  the  effect  of  a  huge  moving  mass  of  partially 
solidified -matter  suddenly  congealed. 

Returning  from  the  glacier,  I  mounted  on  my  way 
through  a  ravine  to  the  top  of  the  cliff's,  where  a  fine 
view  was  had  to  the  south  and  west.  Below  me 
was  the  ruddy  rock  of  Sutherland  Island,  with  a 
chimney-like  peak  at  its  eastern  end,  and  a  heavy 
belt  of  ice  hanging  on  its  northern  side.  To  the 
south-south-east  stood,  as  distinctive  landmarks,  the 
snow-crowned  headlands  of  Saumarez  and  Robert- 


84,  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

son.  The  tops  of  Northumberland  and  Herbert  Isl 
ands,  exhibiting  alternate  streaks  of  brown  and  white, 
lay  in  dim  outline  to  the  south.  The  sea  was  cov 
ered  with  foaming  white-caps.  No  ice  was  visible. 
The  sun's  glaring  disk,  like  a  wheel  of  fire,  rolled 
slowly  northward,  dipping  so  gently  as  to  create  the 
impression  that  it  was  revolving  on  the  plane  of  the 
horizon.  Its  rays  fell  upon  the  hoary  heads  of  the 
mountains  behind  me,  and  bathed  in  purple  the  long 
streaks  of  stratus  clouds  which  hung  over  the  dark 
waters. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THE    FLEET   AT    SEA. 

IT  was  not  until  noon  of  the  8th  of  September 
that  we  broke  up  our  encampment,  and  set  out  for 
Northumberland  Island.  The  wind  blew  fresh  from 
the  northeast,  having  now  held  from  that  quarter 
during  four  days.  The  sea  was  still  rough. 

I  took  the  first  watch,  and  was  relieved  at  four 
o'clock.  When  I  came  again  on  duty,  four  hours 
afterwards,  Cape  Alexander  lay  whole  leagues  be 
hind  us,  and  the  capes  and  glaciers  of  the  coast  to 
our  left  were  blended  into  one  long,  straight,  streak 
ed,  white-capped  wall,  abruptly  terminating  in  Cape 
Robertson*  The  boats  were  cutting  through  the 
water  in  glorious  style.  The  Hope  lay  right  abeam, 
and  was  climbing  over  the  waves,  and  knocking  the 
spray  to  right  and  left,  in  a  manner  which  it  did  our 
hearts  good  to  see.  There  were  no  troublesome  ice 
fields  in  sight ;  water  —  a  great  wide  waste  of  swell 
ing  water —  was- all  around  us.  The  men  were  in 
high  glee.  The  boats  approached  near  enough  to 
exchange  salutations.  "Isn't  this  glorious?"  cried 
Whipple  —  "we  have  it  watch  and  watch  about!" 
— "And  so  have  we!"  answered  Godfrey. — "We're 
shipping  a  galley,  and  mean  to  have  some  supper!" 


86  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

said  Stephenson. — "And  we've  got  it  done. — Look 
there!"  said  John,  flourishing  in  the  air  a  pot  of 
stea ruing  coffee.  Oui  tars  were  in  their  element, 
and  alive  again. 

Oar  felicity  was  short-lived.  A  few  bergs  soon 
showed  their  heads  above  the  horizon  ;  and,  as  we 
approached  nearer,  we  found  among  them  loose 
streams  of  ice,  which  compelled  us  frequently  to 
change  our  course,  but  occasioned  for  a  time  no 
other  embarrassment.  At  length,  these  streams 
became  more  dense,  and  in  places  were  found  ce 
mented  together  with  young  ice.  The  night  closed 
around  us  whilst  we  were  dodging  among  these 
fields  ;  yet  we  managed  to  hold  on,  and,  in  spite 
of  the  darkness,  to  pick  a  tortuous  passage ;  and 
we  brought  up,  at  six  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the 
9th,  in  a  little  cove  on  the  north  side  of  Hakluyt 
Island,  having  been  eighteen  hours  on  the  way. 
After  halting  upon  the  rocks,  long  enough  to  cook 
and  eat  our  breakfast,  we  again  put  to  sea.  A 
narrow  stream,  which  lay  against  the  western  cape 
of  the  island,  arrested  our  progress  for  an  hour ; 
but  it  opened  as  the  tide  changed. 

We  then  made  for  the  southwestern  cape  of 
Northumberland  Island.  Passing  the  south  side  of 
Hakluyt,  we  discovered  the  narrow  channel,  which 
separates  it  from  Northumberland,  to  be  closed  with 
a  heavy  pack,  which,  joining  the  land,  headed  us  oil'. 
Changing  our  course  first  to  south,  then  to  soulh- 
south-west,  then  to  south-west,  as  the  margin  of  the 
park  varied  its  direction,  we  held  on  until  one  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  when  we  found  ourselves  about 
eight  miles  from  Northumberland.  Here  the  ice  be- 


AMONG   THE  ICE.  87 

came  more  dense  to  the  westward,  but  appeared  to 
be  open  to  the  southeast.  Entering  a  narrow  lead 
which  ran  in  that  direction,  we  continued  for  about 
half  a  mile.  The  lead  was  in  places  covered  with  a 
thin  crust  of  ice,  the  wind  had  died  away  to  a  light 
breeze,  and  we  therefore  made  slow  progress.  The 
young  ice  was  cutting  the  whaleboat  badly. 

Reaching  the  end  of  this  lead,  and  uncertain  which 
way  to  turn,  we  hauled  the  boats  alongside  of  a 
little  berg,  to  the  top  of  which  I  clambered  in  com 
pany  with  my  brother- officers.  .  This  gave  us  an  ele 
vation  of  about  fifty  feet.  The  pack  extended 
throughout  the  entire  circuit,  though  in  no  place 
was  it  tightly  closed. 

The  selection  of  our  course  became  now  an  im 
portant  question.  Either  of  two  was  open  to  us  : 
to  stick  to  the  land,  running  thereby  the  risk  of  meet 
ing  the  heavy  ice,  which  always  hugs  the  shore  ;  or 
to  try  the  more  immediately  hazardous  experiment 
of  an  outside  passage.  A  short  description  of  some 
of  the  physical  features  of  this  sea  will  better  enable 
the  reader  to  appreciate  the  critical  nature  of  our 
position. 

Baffin  Bay,  or  more  properly  Baffin  Sea,  is  the 
great  estuary  through  which  the  Polar  ice  of  the 
American  division  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  is  drifted  into 
the  Atlantic.  This  ice  is  poured  into  it  through 
Lancaster,  Jones,  and  Smith  Sounds  on  the  west 
and  north.  It  receives,  also,  accessions  from  Whale 
and  Wolstenholme  Sounds  on  the  east,  and  by  berg- 
discharge  from  the  numerous  glaciers  of  both  coasts. 
Adcjed  to  these  sources  of  supply  is  the  immense 
sheet  which,  during  the  winter,  forms  upon  the  sur* 


88  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

face  of  the  bay  itself.  Its  central  portion,  lying 
between  Capes  York  and  Bathurst  on  the  north, 
and  the  Island  of  Disco  and  Cape  Walsingham  on 
the  south,  forms  the  grand  receptacle  into  which 
are  poured  the  rafts  which  float  down  through  the 
different  channels.  These  accumulated  masses  con 
stitute  the  "  middle-ice,"  or  "  Melville  Bay  pack  ;  " 
the  whole  body  of  which  is  undergoing  constant 
movement  southward,  discharging  continually  from 
its  southern  margin  through  Davis  Strait  into  the 
Atlantic,  and  receiving  proportionate  accessions 
from  the  north.  The  great  highway  through  which 
these  accessions  come,  and  into  which  they  are  first 
discharged  from  the  above-mentioned  channels,  is 
styled  by  the  whalers  the  "North-Water;"  and  in 
consequence  of  the  rapid  flow  of  the  current  south 
ward,  this,  the  north  part  of  Baffin  Bay,  is,  through 
out  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  mainly  free  from 
ice ;  and,  as  stated  in  a  former  paragraph,  it  is 
never  closed  completely. 

We  were  now  about  midway  between  the  usual 
northern  margin  of  the  Melville  Bay  pack  and  Smith 
Strait,  on  the  Greenland  side  of  the  North- Water, 
and  directly  in  the  mouth  of  Whale  Sound.  The 
pack  which  lay  around  us  on  every  side,  was  doubt 
less  made  up  of  the  discharges  from  this  sound,  and 
from  those  of  Jones  and  Smith,  which,  owing  to 
some  cause  to  me  inexplicable,  had  not  yet  joined 
the  middle-ice.  This  pack  lay  separate  and  distinct 
from  that  of  Melville  Bay,  leaving,  in  all  probability 
to  the  south  of  the  Carey  Islands,  a  belt  of  open  water, 
and  thus  dividing  the  North- Water  into  two  parts. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  navigation  of  this  ice-eii- 


ICE-NAVIGATION.  69 

cumberej  sea  is  necessarily  peculiar ;  yet,  so  long 
and  carefully  have  the  movements  of  the  ice  been 
studied,  that  this  navigation  has  been  reduced  to 
almost  as  great  precision  and  certainty  as  the  navi 
gation  of  the  high-seas.  The  whalers,  who  have  for 
almost  two  centuries  frequented  these  waters,  have 
always,  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  adhered  to  the 
land,  holding  on  to  what  is  technically  known  as  the 
"fast  ice."  I  allude  now  chiefly  to  Melville  Bay;  in 
which  deep  indentation  there  is  to  be  found,  always 
early  in  the  summer,  and  sometimes  throughout  the 
entire  season,  an  unbroken  belt  of  ice,  commencing 
at  the  Devil's  Thumb,  widening  gradually  as  it  ap 
proximates  the  centre  of  the  bay,  and  narrowing 
again  toward  Cape  York ;  presenting  an  irregular, 
though,  in  its  general  trend,  an  almost  straight,  line 
from  one  to  the  other  of  these  extremes.  This  belt 
it  is,  \vhich  is  properly  designated  as  above  men 
tioned ;  and  in  holding  on  to  this,  vessels  are  secure 
against  the  risks  and  embarrassments  attendant  upon 
the  ever-shifting  pack  which  lies  to  the  westward, 
and  which  is,  throughout  the  year,  as  already  ob 
served,  undergoing  a  generally  southward  movement. 
To  the  north  of  Melville  Bay,  this  "fast  ice"  does  not 
exist  with  the  same  regularity,  nor  does  it  possess,  at 
any  season  of  the  year,  the  same  characteristics  as 
the  "fast  ice"  previously  described. 

The  chief  seat  of  the  Baffin  Bay  whale-fishery 
is  at  Pond  Bay,  a  little  to  the  south  of  Lancaster 
Sound.  To  get  to  this  once  profitable  fishing-ground, 
the  whale-ships  always  take  fhe  Greenland  side,  in 
the  manner  above  described,  and  after  reaching  Cape 
York,  or  Cape  Dudley  Diggs,  run  over  to  the  west- 
8* 


90  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

ward;  but  later  in  the  season  the  "fast  ice  "  becomes 
broken  and  insecure,  and  therefore,  following  the  cur 
rent  southward,  they  return  home  down  the  Ameri 
can  coast  in  September.  Although  at  this  late  sea 
son  of  the  year,  the  whalers  do  not  hesitate  to  throw 
themselves  into  the  pack,  yet  they  most  scrupulously 
avoid  it  in  the  northward  passage  during  the  months 
of  June  and  July. 12 

It  was  a  question  of  the  utmost  importance  to  us 
to  decide,  whether  we  would  follow  the  spring  or  the 
summer  plan  of  the  whalers.  With  a  ship  under  us, 
our  course  would  have  been  plain  enough,  but  with 
only  our  boats,  the  case  was  different.  The  winter 
was  closing  in  rapidly.  The  young  ice  was  forming 
whenever  the  wind  fell  to  calm,  and  we  were  liable 
to  be  frozen  up  at  -almost  any  moment.  The  ice 
being  in  more  constant  motion  in  the  centre  of  the 
bay,  this  danger  was  there  less  imminent;  but  there 
was  no  absolute  safety  anywhere.  If  we  should  at 
tempt  to  make  our  way  along  the  coast,  and  should 
be  there  caught  by  the  winter,  we  would  have  at 
least,  a  temporary  lease  of  life.  If,  on  'the  other 
hand,  we  should  haul  to  the  westward,  and  attempt 
to  run  down  the  centre  of  the  strait,  outside  of  the 
Carey  Islands,  while  it  was  certain  that  we  should 
have  open  water  longer,  and  run  less  risk  of  being 
frozen  up,  yet,  if  frozen  up,  there  would  be  no  possi 
ble  escape  for  us  —  we  must  speedily  perish.  We 
were,  however,  bound  on  a  desperate  adventure,  and 
must  use  desperate  means. 

Petersen  was  our  ice-man,  and  the  party  had  con 
fidence  in  his  caution  and  judgment.  Beside  him, 
none  of  us  had,  at  that  time,  much  knowledge  of 


THE  BOATS  NIPPED.  91 

ice -movements  or  ice-navigation.  Twenty  years'  con 
stant  experience  had  certainly  given  him  some  claim 
to  the  dignity  of  an  oracle.  He  recommended  the 
in-shore  passage.  It  was  decided  that  we  should 
hold  our  course  to  the  eastward,  and  reach,  if  pos 
sible,  Northumberland  Island,  trusting  to  find  a  lead 
over  to  Cape  Parry,  and  thence  down  the  coast. 
In  the  neighborhood  of  the  island  the  ice  appeared 
to  be  quite  open  ;  but  beyond  this  we  could  not 
determine  anything  with  certainty. 

By  the  time  that  our  conclusion  was  reached,  there 
had  fallen  a  dead  calm  ;  the  masts  were  therefore 
unshipped,  and  we  again  took  to  our  oars.  The 
attempt  was  attended  with  much  difficulty.  The 
tide  ran  swiftly,  and  the  ice  was  in  rapid  motion. 
The  boats  were  fearfully  exposed.  We  could  find 
no  regular  lead,  and  had  therefore  to  trust  to  the 
changes  of  the  fields  to  give  us  a  passage.  The  sud 
denness  with  which  they  sometimes  closed  together, 
subjected  us  to  frequent  nippings,  to  escape  which 
we  were  obliged,  repeatedly,  to  toss  our  cargo  upon 
the  ice  and  drag  up  the  boats.  The  back  of  the 
Hope  was  nearly  broken  by  these  operations  ;  her 
timbers  were  severely  strained,  and  her  seams  were 
so  much  opened  that  one  man  was  constantly  em 
ployed  in  bailing.  The  Ironsides  was  dented  in  a 
dozen  places,  and  her  bilge  was  pressed  in  below  the 
thwaits  fully  four  inches,  by  a  nip  which  she -re 
ceived  while  attempting  to  run  the  gauntlet  of  two 
closing  fields. 

As  we  approached  the  island,  the  ice  was  found 
to  be  even  more  closely  packed  than  outside,  and 
in  more  rapid  motion.  There  was  no  lead  along  the 


92  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

shore :  the  tide  was  against  us.  It  was  with  the 
utmost  difficulty  that  we  could  hold  our  place.  Our 
efforts  to  advance  were  only  sufficient  to  prevent  our 
being  drifted  back.  It  was  clearly  of  no  use  to  con 
tinue  at  this  work,  wearing  ourselves  out,  endan 
gering  our  boats,  and,  withal,  making  no  headway. 
It  was  therefore  determined  to  strike  more  directly 
for  the  land,  reach  it  if  possible,  and  there  camp, 
and  reconnoitre  from  the  mountains.  Running  now 
across  the  direction  of  the  drift,  the  boats  were  in 
greater  peril  than  before.  We  made  our  way  by 
edging  up  diagonally  against  the  current,  boring 
through  when  we  found  an  opening. 

We  reached  the  land  at  seven  o'clock  in  the  even 
ing,  but  could  find  no  harbor.  Discovering  a  point 
of  rock  projecting  about  twenty  yards  into  the  water, 
we  drew  in  behind  it,  and  were  thus  protected  against 
the  drifting  ice  while  the  boats  were  unloading.  This 
done,  they  were  again  hauled  upon  the  beach,  be 
yond  the  tide-line.  The  tent  was  pitched  upon  a 
terrace,  about  thirty  feet  above  the  water,  and  about 
fifty  yards  from  the  beach.  This  terrace  was  cov 
ered  with  a  thick  sod  of  grass  ;  and  the  hill-side 
above,  which  sloped  upward  at  an  angle  of  forty 
degrees,  to  a  red  sandstone  cliff,  whose  base  stood 
three  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  was 
equally  rich  in  vegetation.  We  had  lighted  upon 
a  weary  man's  paradise.  For  more  than  two  hun 
dred  yards,  on  either  side,  1his  green  sward  con 
tinued  ;  and  we  all  agreed  that  nothing  like  it  had 
been  seen  since  we  had  left  South  Greenland,  four 
teen  months  before.  A  blue  fox  was  shot  by  one 
of  the  hunters,  immediately  after  our  landing ;  and 


THE   GREEN  HILL-SIDE.  93 

while  the  cooks  were  preparing  him  for  supper,  the 
rest  of  the  party,  forgetting  their  fatigue,  rambled 
over  the  green  hill-side,  and,  like  colts  in  spring  pas 
ture,  rolled  themselves  in  the  thick  grass. 

If  the  sight  of  this  green  spot  gave  joy  to  our 
spirits,  it  held,  too,  treasures  for  our  scurvy-riddled 
men.  Knowing  what  was  to  be  expected,  in  such  a 
locality,  I  took  Mr.  Bonsall  with  me  ;  and  we  had 
not  searched  long  before  we  were  rewarded  by  the 
discovery  of  some  patches  of  cochlearia  and  sorrel, 
in  sufficient  quantity  to  satisfy  the  wants  of  a  hun 
dred  men.  The  plants  were  only  slightly  wilted  by 
the  frost;  and  their  juicy  stalks,  which  grew  in  some 
places  three  or  four  inches  in  length,  were  plucked 
and  eaten  by  our  people  with  a  ravenous  zeal  that 
told  how  badly  we  stood  in  need  of  something  fresh 
and1  green.  Stephenson  and  Whipple  carried  their 
caps  full  of  it  to  the  cook,  who  boiled  it  with  his  fox, 
and  made  us  such  a  supper  as  we  had  not  had  since 
we  left  New  York.  Although  disappointed  of  get 
ting  on  in  our  course,  the  spirits  of  our  people  were 
better,  after  this  hearty  feast,  than  they  had  been  at 
any  time  since  leaving  the  brig.  They  declared  that 
they  felt  the  cochlearia  in  their  very  bones. 

It  was  midnight  when  we  retired  to  our  tent,  hav 
ing  previously  set  a  watch,  to  be  relieved  every  two 
hours,  with  directions  to  keep  a  close  look-out  upon 
the  ice,  and  to  give  the  alarm  in  case  it  showed  any 
signs  of  opening.  The  moon  shone  out  brightly, 
the  air  was  calm,  and  the  thermometer  stood  at  30°. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

NORTHUMBERLAND    ISLAND. 

WHEN  we  awoke,  the  sun  was  shining  brightly 
upon  us ;  the  air  was  warm.  So  long  had  we  been 
accustomed  to  this  arctic  climate,  that  we  had  almost 
forgotten  that  there  was  such  a  thing  as  summer. 
This  noonday  heat  brought  it  to  our  recollection, 
and  it  felt  quite  sultry,  with  the  thermometer  in  the 
shade  standing  at  36°,  and  in  the  sun  at  73°.  • 

The  ice  remained  nearly  the  same  as  on  the  pre 
vious  evening.  There  being  clearly  no  chance,  for 
the  present,  of  getting  on,  we  embraced  the  oppor 
tunity  to  dry  our  wet  cargo.  The  boat-sails  were 
spread  upon  the  grass,  and  on  them  were  poured  the 
contents  of  our  water-soaked  bread  and  coffee  bags. 
The  buffalo  skins,  and  blankets,  and  clothing,  were 
treated  in  a  similar  manner.  We  also  overhauled 
the  boats.  The  Hope  was  much  damaged,  and  it 
was  found  necessary  to  recaulk  her.  Her  tin  sheath 
ing  had  been,  in  places,  loosened,  or  torn  off,  and  re 
quired  to  be  tacked  on  again.  The  metallic  boat 
was  not  materially  injured :  her  sides  needed  only  to 
be  beaten  out  straight.  Those  to  whom  was  as 
signed  the  duty  of  superintending  the  drying  of  our 
cargo,  having  finished  their  work,  returned  to  the 
hill  to  feast  again  on  the  cochlearia. 


A   WALK  TO  THE   CLIFFS.  95 

In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Bonsall  and  myself  set-out 
to  climb  the  mountain  for  a  view.  Bonsall  carried 
his  gun  with  the  hope  of  getting  a  shot  at  one  of  the 
foxes,  which  were  heard  barking  in  the  cliffs  above 
us. 

We  started  up  the  shore,  and,  the  tide  being  at 
its  ebb,  we  walked  along  the  beach,  sometimes  pick 
ing  a  passage  among  the  cakes  of  ice  which  lay 
stranded  by  the  retiring  waters,  sometimes  clamber 
ing  over  the  rough  knobs  of  porphyritic  rock,  which 
here  and  there  cropped  out,  or  edging  along  the  face 
of  a  low  slate-stone  cliff,  which,  deeply  worn  and 
wasted,  bore  evidence  of  the  destructive  powers  of 
the  frost  and  sea.  A  heavy  ground-swell  was  rolling 
up  at  our  feet,  tossing  the  ice  about  in  tumultuous 
confusion. 

We  had  gone  nearly  a  mile  before  we  found  a 
break  in  the  cliffs ;  then,  climbing  up  the  stony 
slope,  we  emerged  at  length  upon  a  broad  plateau, 
five  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  To 
the  left  lay  a  glacier  which  ran  down  into  the  sea ; 
to  the  right  stretched  the  long  line  of  cliffs,  under 
which  we  had  travelled ;  and  before  us  rose  a  low, 
round-topped  mountain.  We  walked  parallel  with 
the  cliffs  until  we  came  back  opposite  to  our  encamp 
ment.  Advancing  then  to  the  edge  of  the  precipice, 
a  charming  sight  broke  upon  our  gaze.  Far  beneath 
our  feet  lay  the  green  hill-side,  appearing,  as  we 
looked  down  upon  it,  almost  like  a  level  plain,  the 
slope  increasing  the  perspective  distance  and  in  effect 
doubling  the  dimensions  of  the  field.  The  tent  lay 
at  its  farther  edge  ;  strewn  around  were  our  travel 
ling  accoutrements.  One  of  our  companions  was 


96  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

manoeuvring  along  the  base  of  the  cliffs  to  get 
a  shot  at  a  ger-falcon,  which  constantly  eluded  his 
stealthy  vigilance.  Flitting  from  rock  to  rock,  scream 
ing  wildly  all  the  while,  the  noble  bird  of  prey  man 
aged  to  hold  a  middle  course  between  two  fires — • 
from  above  and  from  beneath — without  abandoning 
his  favorite  haunt.  Others  of  the  party  were  bask 
ing  in  the  sun,  asleep  upon  the  lawn;  while  one  in 
dividual  was  stretched  out  at  full  length,  feasting  in 
the  "  garden,"  as  we  called  the  patch  of  cochlearia. 
Jt  was  a  gypsy-like  camp,  and,  viewed  separately 
from  its  surroundings,  was  altogether  a  most  un- 
arctic  scene. 

We  were  as  much  disheartened  by  what  lay  be 
yond  as  delighted  by  what  lay  beneath.  Before  us, 
to  our  right,  and  to  our  left  was  ice,  ice,  ice.  We 
could  see  full  forty  miles ;  and,  although  not  able  to 
determine  positively  the  condition  of  the  water  for 
more  than  twenty,  yet  what  we  saw  assured  us  that 
a  probably  impenetrable  pack  lay  in  our  way.  To 
the  southwest,  toward  the  Carey  Islands,  whose  tops 
were  dimly  visible,  the  sky  indicated  open  water, 
which  seemed  to  run  in  toward  Saunders  Island, 
whose  long,  flat,  white  roof,  supported  by  a  dark 
vertical  wall,  appeared  above  the  horizon  to  the 
south.  Under  Cape  Parry  was  a  large  open  area, 
from  which  diverged  several  narrow  leads,  like  the 
fingers  of  an  outspread  hand,  toward  Northumber 
land.  One  of  these  leads  came  up  within  four  or 
five  miles  of  our  camp  ;  but  inside  of  it  all  was 
tightly  closed.  Below  Cape  Parry  several  small 
leads  appeared,  and  much  open  water  seemed  to 
lie  along  the  land. 


THE  PACK.  97 

Although  this  pack  was  in  fact  the  same  that  had 
baffled  Dr.  Kane  in  July  and  August,  yet  its  exist 
ence  here  surprised  me  as  it  had  him.  It  had  never 
been  noted  before.  Our  track  had  been  traversed  by 
Baffin  and  Bylot  in  August,  1616 ;  by  Sir  John 
Rossj  between  August  7th  and  30th,  1818 ;  by  Capt. 
Inglefield,  August  28th,  1852 ;  and  by  Dr.  Kane,  in 
the  Advance,  August  7th,  1853  ;  and  by  none  of 
them  had  any  considerable  quantity  of  ice  jDeen  seen 
north  of  Melville  Bay.  I  was  not  prepared  for  such 
a  rebuff  at  this  part  of  our  voyage. 

Could  we  pass  it  ?  would  it  open  ?  was  there  any 
hope  for  us  ?  I  confess  that,  as  these  questions  came 
in  succession  to  my  mind,  I  could  only  meet  them 
by  gloomy  doubting.  The  ice  was  more  firm  and 
secure  than  we  had  anticipated  finding,  even  in  Mel 
ville  Bay.  All  of  our  bright  dreams  of  succor  and 
safety  seemed  to  be  ending. 

I  was  still  not  wholly  without  hope.  There  were 
yet  twenty  days  of  September ;  and,  although  signs 
of  winter  had  been  about  us  ever  since  we  left  the 
brig,  yet  it  was  now  much  warmer  here  than  at 
Rensselaer  Harbor  a  month  earlier.  Altogether,  Sep 
tember  promised  more  of  summer  than  of  winter, 

It  was  with  mingled  feelings  of  hope  and  dis 
couragement  that  I  started  to  return.  -These  feel 
ings  were  shared  by  my  companion,  who,  like  myself, 
could  not,  without  a  shudder,  think  of  the  prospect 
of  undertaking  to  bore  the  pack  at  this  late  season  ; 
and  yet  to  put  back  for  the  brig  was  a  thought 
equally  unwelcome.  Apart  from  any  feeling  of 
pride,  it  was  evident  that  to  turn  back  not  only 
would  involve  the  certain  loss  of  that  relief  which 


08  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

we  sought,  but,  by  nearly  doubling  the  vessel's  crew, 
would  induce  that  very  condition  of  ill  health  to 
prevent  which  was  one  of  the  reasons  for  our  leav 
ing  the  vessel.  However,  we  had  yet  some  days 
before  us  to  watch  and  wait ;  and  if,  in  the  end,  we 
were  forced  to  retreat,  we  should  then  have  at  least 
the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  we  had  don^  our 
duty  We  had  had  nineteen  days  of  as  constant 
hard  striving  against  the  elements  as  could  be  rea 
sonably  asked  of  us. 

If  there  was  not  at  least  some  chance  (and  at 
present  none  appeared)  of  getting  through  the  pack, 
it  would  be  madness  to  enter  it  farther.  We  de 
termined,  therefore,  to  have  the  matter  discussed  in 
a  formal  council,  of  the  men  as  well  as  the  officers ; 
and,  after  Petersen  should  have  demonstrated  what 
he  knew  of  the  laws  of  ice-movements,  and  the  na 
ture  of  the  seas  to  the  south  of  us,  then  to  call  for 
a  vote,  and  let  the  party  thus  decide  the  choice  of 
risks:  namely,  to  wait  and  take  the  consequences, 
or  to  put  back  while  it  remained  possible  so  to 
do.  All  had  a  right  to  be  consulted  on  such  an 
occasio/i,  however  the  impulses  of  a  few  might 
prompt  to  a  continuance  of  our  journey. 

To  undertake  to  winter  where  we  were,  or  any 
where  upon  the  coast,  which  we  must  do  in  case  we 
should  not  be  successful  and  our  retreat  should  be 
cut  off,  seemed  like  folly.  We  had  barely  food  to 
last  us  eighteen  days,  and  fuel  for  less  than  half  that 
time.  That  the  Esquimaux  lived  somewhere,  and 
somehow,  we  knew ;  but  where,  or  how,  we  did  not 
know,  nor  could  we  imagine.  Thus  far  our  guns  had 
brought  us  nothing  of  consequence.  We  had  seen 


A  FOX-CHASE.  99 

several  seals,  and  had  got  within  thirty  yards  of  one 
of  them,  but  the  rifle  missed  its  aim.  We  had  passed 
a  school  of  walrus  but  we  had  no  harpoon,  and  our 
bullets  would  not  pierce  their  hide.  The  birds,  which 
swarm  upon  the  shores  and  waters  during  the  sum 
mer,  had  brought  forth  their  young,  and  had  flown 
away.  We  had  seen  only  a  few  foxes,  and  not  a 
single  bear.  Petersen,  whose  experience  as  a  Green 
land  hunter  entitled  him  to  judge  of  the  resources 
which  would  probably  be  opened,  desponded  at  the 
thought  of  wintering,  when  I  talked  with  him  about 
the  contingencies  against  which  we  must  provide, 
as  far  as  we  were  able. 

We  sought  along  the  cliff  a  place  where  we 
might  descend,  and  came  at  length  upon  a  gorge 
which  sloped  down  between  two  precipitous  walls  to 
the  lawn,  a  little  to  the  east  of  our  encampment.  As 
we  were  commencing  the  descent,  a  fox  was  seen 
scampering  away  over  the  plain.  Bonsall  gave  chase, 
but  could  not  get  within  shooting  distance.  Another 
was  heard  barking  overhead  at  us  when  we  reached 
about  half-way  down.  I  took  the  gun,  and,  climb 
ing  back  over  the  huge  boulders  which  filled  the 
bottom  of  the  gorge,  tried,  by  crawling  behind  a  rock, 
to  approach  him;  but  he  seemed  to  be  aware  of 
my  intentions,  and  scampering  away,  led  me  a  wild 
chase  across  the  plain  over  which  Bonsall  had  before 
run.  The  cunning  animal  first  made  off,  so  that  I 
could  not  corner  him  upon  the  cliff;  and,  when  out 
of  danger,  perched  himself  upon  a  stone  and  barked 
at  me  until  I  came  within  long  range,  when,  as  I 
was  -au/out  to  bring  my  gun  to  my  shoulder,  he  drop 
ped  behind  the  stone  and  fled  to  another,  where  he 


100  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

set  up  the  same  wild  chatter, —  a  shrill  "huk!  huk  ! 
huk!  "  —  which  sounded  like  a  mixture  of  anger  and 
defiance.  I  tried  again  to  approach  him,  but  with 
no  better  success :  he  ran  round  and  round  me  until 
at  length,  becoming  weary  with  following  him,  I 
fired.  Some  shot  must  have  touched  him,  for  he 
screamed  as  if  half  murdered,  and  flew  away  as  fast 
as  his  little  legs  would  carry  him. 

We  reached  the  camp  at  six  o'clock  in  the  even 
ing,  tired  and  foot-sore.  We  found  some  of  our 
companions  seated  on  the  grass-plot,  near  the  tent, 
smoking  their  pipes  and  playing  "  forty-fives,"  as 
unconcernedly  as  if  they  were  already  at  home. 
Danger,  and  the  hard  prospect  before  them,  seemed 
furthest  from  their  thoughts.  Sonntag  was  busy 
writing  a  geological  description  of  the  island.  Peter- 
sen  was  out  hunting. 

They  had  not,  however,  been  idle  at  the  camp 
during  our  absence,  as  was  shown  by  a  pile  of  coch- 
learia,  which  lay  near  by.  They  were  only  waiting 
for  us  to  bring  them  in  something  more  substantial 
for  supper,  to  start  the  fire.  They  had  found  along 
the  shore,  half  a  mile  below,  a  little  glacier,  over 
which  poured  a  stream  of  crystal  water,  from  which 
they  had  filled  the  kettles.  This  discovery  came 
most  opportunely;  for  we  had  hitherto,  since  landing 
on  the  island,  been  obliged  to  melt  ice,  thus  consum 
ing  rapidly  our  fuel.  Petersen  came  in  soon  after, 
like  us,  empty-handed.  He  had  seen  several  foxes 
but  could  not  get  near  them.  We  were  compelled, 
therefore,  to  fall  back  again  upon  our  rapidly  vanish 
ing  stock  of  pork  and  bread,  of  which,  with  the  ad 
dition  of  some  cochlearia,  John  made  us  an  excel- 


THE   COUNCIL. —  THE:  RESOLVE/  yMtVi 


lent  scouse.  To  this  he  added  our  never-failing 
source  of  comfort  —  a  pot  of  coffee. 

While  the  plates  were  passing  around,  the  subject 
of  advancing  further  was  introduced.  Petersen's 
observations  coincided  with  Bonsall's  and  my  own. 
The  party  received  the  intelligence  with  a  coolness 
quite  characteristic ;  and,  when  the  possible  contin 
gency  of  being  compelled  to  turn  back  was  put  be 
fore  them,  the  response  was  most  gratifying.  I  knew, 
beforehand,  that  the  views  of  Messrs.  Sonntag  and 
Petersen  accorded  with  those  of  Bonsall  and  myself. 
Whipple  made  quite  a  neat  little  speech,  which  I 
wish  that  I  could  record  literally.  I  give  it  as  nearly 
as  I  can  remember  it :  "  The  ice  can't  remain  long, 
—  I'll  bet  it  opens  to-morrow.  The  winter  is  a  long 
way  off  yet.  If  we  have  such  luck  as  we  have  had 
since  leaving  Cape  Alexander,  we'll  be  in  Upernavik 
in  a  couple  of  weeks.  You  say  it  is  not  more  than 
six  hundred  miles  there  in  a  straight  line.  We  have 
food  for  that  time,  and  fuel  for  a  week.  Before 
that's  gone  we'll  shoot  a  seal."  It  was  a  right  gal 
lant  and  hopeful  little  speech,  and  "  Long  George  " 
(as  his  messmates  always  called  him)  looked  quite 
the  hero.  It  reflected  the  spirit  of  the  party ;  and  it 
is  one  of  the  pleasantest  recollections  of  my  life  that, 
notwithstanding  nineteen  days  of  danger  and  suffer 
ing,  during  which  they  had  been  wet,  cold,  and  often 
half  famished,  the  men  who  were  my  companions 
did  not  quail  at  this  crisis. 

In  order  that  the  nature  of  our  situation  might  be 
more  fully  understood,  Mr.  Sonntag  brought  out  his 
charts ;  and  after  we  had  carefully  discussed  together 
the  difficulties  and  dangers  on  every  hand;  the 

9* 


102  AN  .ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

possible  chances  of  our  success,  and  the  probable 
chances  of  our  being  caught  in  the  ice  ;  and  having 
all  arrived  at  a  full  comprehension  of  the  uncertain 
ties  which  were  before  us,  and  our  facilities  for  avail 
ing  ourselves  of  the  temporary  security  which  was 
behind  us.  a  formal  vote  was  then  taken  upon  the 
question,  "  Whether  we  should  go  back,  or  wait  and 
go  on  with  the  slightest  opening." 

There   was    but   one   voice   in   the   company.  - 
"  Upernavik  or  nothing,  then  it  is  !  "     "  That's  what 
I  mean  !  "  — "  and  so  do  I ! "  were  the  prompt  re 
sponses.  —  The  thing  was  sett  ed. 


CHAPTER   X. 

AT    SEA    IN   A    SNOW    STORM. 

I  FEAR  that  I  am  prolonging  this  history  beyond 
the  limit  which  my  readers  will  consider  reasonable, 
even  for  a  merely  personal  narrative ;  but  I  find  the 
temptation  to  detail  almost  irresistible,  as  the  recol 
lections  of  the  past  crowd  upon  my  memory.  I  will 
be  more  brief  with  the  next  few  days. 

September  llth.  The  ice  drifts  rapidly  out  of  the 
sound,  opening  wider  the  leads  toward  Cape  Parry 
and  the  southwest;  but  it  is  closing  up  more  tightly 
against  the  southeast  corner  of  the  island.  The  noes 
have  left  the  shore  opposite  our  camp,  and  we  could 
put  to  sea  and  make  some  headway  toward  the 
Carey  Islands ;  but  this  is  not  the  course  we  have  de 
termined  upon  pursuing.  We  could  not  advance 
more  than  half  a  rnile  in  the  direction  of  the  main 
land.  Godfrey  has  shot  a  fox,  and  he  reports  having 
seen  several  others  among  the  mountains.  Petersen 
brought  down  a  young  raven  ;  it  is  not  good,  but 
we  must  eat  it  and  save  our  pork.  The  sky  is  over 
cast,  and  the  temperature  has  gone  down  to  25°. 
The  air  remains  calm. 

September  12th.  The  ice  remains  close  to  the 
land  below  us,  but  is  still  loose  off  the  camp.  It 


104  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

continues  to  drift  out  of  the  channel,  and  moves 
toward  the  southwest.  The  clouds  and  tnist  have 
cleared  away;  the  sun  shines  out  brightly;  and  the 
thermometer  comes  hack  at  noonday  to  35°  in  the 
shade,  and  to  72°  in  the  sun. 

We  were  surprised  about  noon  by  the  appearance 
of  an  Esquimau.  He  came  up  the  beach,  and  was 
as  much  astonished  "as  ourselves.  We  recognized 
him  as  one  of  those  who  were  at  the  ship  last  winter. 
His  name  was  Amalatok.  After  exchanging  salu 
tations,  he  seated  himself  upon  a  rock  with  a  cool 
dignity  quite  characteristic  of  his  people,  and  began 
to  talk  in  a  rapid  and  animated  manner.  He  was 
dressed  in  a  coat  made  of 'bird-skins,  feathers  turned 
inward  ;  bear-skin  pantaloons,  hair  outward  ;  tanned 
seal-skin  boots,  and  dog-skin  stockings.  He  told  us 
that  he  lived  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  island  ;  that  he 
had  a  wife,  but  no  children  ;  that  his  brother,  who 
had  a  wife  and  children,  lived  with  him  ;  and  that 
they  had  been  visited  by  white  men  (kablunet)  not 
long  since.  They  were  evidently  the  same  people 
whom  Dr.  Kane  had  met  on  his  southern  journey  in 
August.  Judging  from  our  visitor's  description,  his 
house  was  distant  from  our  camp  ab'out  three  miles. 
It  could  be  reached,  he  said,  only  by  climbing  over  the 
mountain,  which  was  a  difficult  undertaking;  or  by 
walking  along  the  beach  at  low  tide.  He  carried  in 
his  hand  two  little  auks,  a  bladder  filled  with  oil,  a  coil 
of  seal  thong,  and  two  or  three  pieces  of  half-putrid 
walrus  flesh.  He  was  on  an  excursion  round  the 
island  to  set  fox-traps  ;  and  the  flesh  was  intended  for 
bait.  While  talking  with  us,  he  took  up  one  of  his 
auks,  twisted  off  the  head,  and,  inserting  the  index 


THE  ESQUIMAU  AMALATOK.  105 

finger  of  his  right  hand  under  the  integuments  of  the 
neck,  drew  it  down  the  back,  —  and  in  an  instant  the 
bird  was  skinned.  He  then  ran  his  long  thumb-nail 
along  the  breastbone,  and  as  quickly  produced  two 
fine  fat  lumps  of  flesh,  which  he  generously  offered  to 
anybody  who  would  take  them.  He  evidently  intend 
ed  a  great  courtesy  ;  but  the  raw  meat  coming  from 
such  hands  and  treated  in  this  manner  was  not  to 
our  liking.  Petersen  explained  td  him  that  we  had 
just  breakfasted,  and  begged,  most  politely,  that  he 
would  not  rob  himself.  It  did  not  please  him  that 
we  declined  his  hospitality ;  which  was  evidently 
kindly  meant,  and  was  bestowed  in  a  manner  which 
showed  plainly  that  he  felt  the  importance  of  proprie 
torship.  He  did  not  wait  for  further  invitation,  and 
took  his  lunch  with  a  gusto  quite  refreshing  to  see, 
washing  it  down  with  a  drink  of  oil  which,  in  turn, 
he  offered  to  us ;  but  again  we  were  compelled  to 
commit  the  discourtesy  of  declining  the  proffered  at 
tention.  The  remainder  of  his  oil,  which  furnished 
us  fuel  for  cooking  two  meals,  the  other  bird,  and 
the  coil  of  thong,  we  purchased  of  him  for  three 
needles.  He  had,  he  said,  no  stock  for  his  whip, 
and  he  begged  for  a  piece  of  wood.  We  gave  him  a 
splinter  from  a  piece  of  board,  which  we  carried  to 
patch  the  boat  in  case  of  accident.  Notwithstanding 
his  greasy  face,  matted  hair,  ragged  dress,  and  dis 
gusting  propensity  to  drink  oil,  he  was  the  most 
decent  looking  native  I  had  yet  seen. 

Ceremonies  over,  Petersen  questioned  him  respect 
ing  the  resources  of  the  island,  and  the  condition 
of  the  ice  to  the  eastward.  He  told  us  that  to  the 
eastward  there  was  much  open  water ;  and  that  his 


106  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

brother  had  captured  a  walrus,  and  would  probably 
trade  some  of  it  for  a  knife.  Petersen,  accompa 
nied  by  Godfrey,  set  out  immediately  in  search  of 
the  settlement;  but  the  Esquimau,  being  intent  upon 
examining  the  multitude  of  curious  things  of  which 
he  found  us  possessed,  could  not  be  induced  to  ac 
company  him,  Knowing  from  experience  the  light- 
fingered  propensities  of  his  race,  we  watched  him 
closely. 

Petersen  came  back  in  a  couple  of  hours,  accom 
panied  by  a  woman  and  a  boy.  The  woman  was 
the  wife  of  Amalatok,  who  still  remained  with  us. 
She  appeared  to  be  twice  his  age,  and  was  ugly  be 
yond  description.  The  boy  was  quite  a  good-looking, 
sprightly,  thieving  rascal,  and  her  nephew.  They  had 
been  met  on  the  way,  and  upon  being  told  what 
was  wanted,  the  woman  replied  that  her  husband's 
brother,  with  his  wife  and  entire  family,  was  setting 
fox-traps  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  and  that  she 
could  not  supply  him  with  anything  before  seeing 
her  husband.  Petersen  coaxed  and  persuaded,  but 
to  no  purpose  ;  and  he  was  reluctantly  compelled  to 
return  to  the  camp. 

Our  newly  found  friends  left  us  in  the  evening,  in 
time  to  get  home  before  the  tide  came  in.  Petersen 
would  have  gone  with  them,  but  it  was  not  thought 
prudent,  as  the  ice  showed  signs  of  loosening. 
The  sun  went  down  through  a  cairn,  cloudless  at 
mosphere.  As  it  sank  below  the  horizon,  the  moon 
brightened ;  and  first  one  star,  and  then  another,  and 
another,  twinkled  in  the  gray  sky.  A  heavy,  ice- 
incumbered  swell  rolled  up  the  beach,  and  its  long, 
deep  pulsations  broke  the  stillness  of  the  night. 


COCHLEARIA.  107 

September  T3lh.  No  change  in  the  ice.  This 
state  of  inactivity  greatly  affects  our  spirits.  Every 
hour  is  precious,  and  it  is  hard  to  be  kept  thus 
closely  imprisoned. 

It  is  wonderful  how  the  fine  weather  holds ;  noth 
ing  like  it  was  ever  experienced  at  Rensselaer  Har 
bor,  even  in  midsummer.  The  people  amuse  them 
selves  in  wandering  about  the  green,  in  plucking  and 
eating  cochlearia,  or  in  lounging  about  the  c:\mp, 
smoking  their  pipes;  sometimes  relieving  the  rno- 
nolony  wilh  a  game  of  whist,  or  in  sewing  up  the 
rents  in  their  dilapidated  clothing;  casting  now  and 
then  wistful  glances  on  the  sea,  and  wondering  impa 
tiently  "when  the  ice  will  open?"  Petersen  shot  a 
fox  and  a  young  burgomaster-gull;  the  former  was 
secured,  but  the  latter  fell  into  the  sea  and  floated 
away  wilh  the  tide.  Although  the  men  suffer  moral 
ly,  they  improve  physically.  The  cochlearia  has 
driven  from  their  systems  every  trace  of  scurvy  ;  and 
the  few  good  meals  of  fresh  animal  food  which  we 
have  eaten  have  built  up  all  of  us  and  filled  out  our 
cadaverous  cheeks. 

September  14fJi.  This  is  our  fifth  day  upon  the 
island.  Everything  has  been  put  in  complete  order. 
Our  coffee  and  bread  are  thoroughly  dried. 

The  ice  showed  some  signs  of  opening  in  the 
morning,  and  I  went  with  Mr.  Sonntag  to  the  top 
of  the  cliffs,  for  a  better  view.  Our  hearts  bounded 
with  delight.  To  the  south  and  west  the  pack  was 
loose;  below  and  about  Cape  Parry  the  coast  ap 
peared  to  be  mainly  clear;  very  little  ice  was  to  be 
seen  up  the  channel ;  the  iloes  which  had  so  long 
hugged  the  island  were  giving  way.  We  returned 


108  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

hastily  to  the  camp  with  the  joyful  intelligence,  and 
commenced  packing  up.  Bonsall  and  Peterson  were 
absent,  hunting.  They  came  in  as  we  were  begin 
ning  to  stow  the  boats,  having  also  seen  the  sudden 
change.  Each  of  them  had  captured  a  fox.  At  four 
o'clock,  p.  M.  we  pushed  off  from  the  shore,  and 
pulled  straight  for  Cape  Parry. 

The  fine  summer  weather,  which  had  blessed  us 
il n ring  our  stay  on  the  island,  was  now  gone.  The 
sky  was  clear,  and  the  air  soft  and  balmy  early  in 
the  day  ;  but  one  of  the  rnists  peculiar  to  these  cold 
waters  settled  over  us  while  we  were  preparing  to 
embark  ;  and  as  we  stepped  into  the  boats  it  began 
to  snow.  The  cap:)  for  which  we  had  steered  was, 
in  less  than  half  an  hour,  invisible;  and  even  the 
loom  of  the  land  we  had  just  left  was  lost.  A  great 
white  curtain  shut  out  from  view  everything  but  the 
dark  water  under  us.  The  temperature  was  at  24°. 
The  snow  was  making,  upon  the  surface  of  the  sea, 
a  thick,  heavy  sludge,  which  greatly  retarded  the 
boats,  and  made  the  labor  of  rowing  excessively 
severe. 

Having  now  no  landmarks  by  which  to  steer,  Mr. 
Sonntag  brought  out  the  compass,  which  hitherto 
we  had  had  no  occasion  to  use ;  but,  to  our  keen 
disappointment,  ifc  was  found  to  be  so  sluggish  as 
to  be  utterly  unreliable.  The  needle  stood  wher 
ever  placed,  within  a  range  of  eight  points.  Strik 
ing  a  mean  between  the  extremes,  we  applied  the 
necessary  connection  for  variation,  and  held  on.  At 
length  we  struck  some  ice-uVlds,  and  in  working 
through  them*  became  completely  bewildered.  The 
compass  was  condemned  by  general  consent.  Peter- 


ADRIFT   ON  AN  ICE-RAFT.  109 

sen  declared  that  it  was  leading  us  into  "  the  pa^k," 
of  which  no  whaler  had  ever  greater  horror  than  him 
self ;  Bonsall  thought  that  we  were  steering  in  the 
opposite  direction,  up  the  channel  ;  Stephenson  de- 
claved  that  we  were  going  in  a  circle  ;  and  nobody 
thought  that  we  were  going  right.  In  this  state  of 
opinion,  it  was  deemed  most  prudent  to  halt  and 
wait  for  better  weather.  Discovering  a  piece  of  old 
ice,  whose  surface  floated  about  two  feet  above  the 
water,  we  pulled  alongside,  and  moored  the  boats. 
The  tent  was  pitched  upon  one  corner ;  and,  alter 
shaking  the  snow  from  their  backs,  all,  except  God 
frey  and  myself  who  remained  without,  crawled  in 
side.  Our  floating  ice  island  was  about  twelve 
feet  square. 

By  this  time  it  had  grown  quite  dark.  *  A  more 
gloomy  prospect  for  a  night's  adventure  can  scarcely 
be  imagined,  drifting  as  we  were  on  a  crystal  raft, 
we  knew  not  whither.  We  were  cold,  wet  to  the 
skin,  covered  with  ice,  and  cruelly  disappointed. 
Our  boats  were  literally  filled  by  the  snow,  which 
continued  to  fall  faster  and  faster.  We  could  not 
unwrap  our  bedding  without  getting  it  wet ;  and  we 
were,  therefore,  compelled  to  huddle  together  in  the 
tent,  and  to  keep  one  another  warm  as  best  we  could. 
We  collected  some  of  the  newly  fallen  snow ;  and, 
although  everything  was  so  damp  that  we  could 
scarcely  ignite  the  lamp  and  keep  it  burning,  yet  the 
cook  managed,  in  about  one  hour,  to  melt  a  kettle 
of  water,  and  in  another  to  produce  a  pot  of  coffee. 
This  warmed  us,  and  dispelled  the  melancholy  which 
had  settled  over  the  party. 

The  night  wore  slowly  away.  Of  course  we  could 
10 


110  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

not  sleep.  The  watch  tramped  up  and  down  the 
few  feet  of  space  which  lay  between  the  tent  and  the 
water,  and  was  relieved  every  hour.  The  tent  was 
tightly  closed,  and  the  smoke  of  the  pipes  brought 
up  the  temperature  a  few  degrees.  At  one  time  it 
reached  30°. 

That  we  should  feel  despondent  under  the  circum 
stances  was,  perhaps,  quite  natural ;  but  now,  as  on 
other  occasions,  there  was  exhibited  in  the  party  a 
courage  which  triumphed  over  the  distressing  for 
tunes  of  the  day.  Stories,  such  as  sailors  alone  can 
tell,  followed  the  coffee,  and  interrupted  the  monoto 
nous  chattering  of  teeth  ;  and  Godfrey,  who  had  a 
penchant  for  negro  melodies,  broke  out  from  time  to 
time  with  scraps  from  "  Uncle  Ned,"  in  all  its  varia 
tions,  "Susannah,"  and  "I'm  off'  to  Charlestown,  a 
little  while  to  stay."  Petersen  recited  some  chapters 
from  his  boy-life  in  Copenhagen  and  Iceland  ;  John 
gave  us  some  insight  into  a  "runner's"  life  in  San 
Francisco  and  Macao  ;  Whipple  told  some  horrors 
of  the  forecastle  of  a  Liverpool  packet;  but  Bonsall 
drew  the  chief  applause,  by  "  Who  wouldn't  sell  a 
farm  and  go  to  sea?" 

A  strange  mixture  of  men  crowded  the  tent  on 
that  little  frozen  raft,  in  that  dark  stormy  night  of 
the  Arctic  Sea !  There  were  a  German  astrono 
mer,  a  Baltimore  seaman,  a  Pennsylvania  farmer,  a 
Greenland  cooper,  a  Hull  sailor,  an  East  River 
boatman,  an  Irish  patriot,  and  a  Philadelphia  stu 
dent  of  medicine;  and  it  was  a  singular  jumble 
of  human  experience  and  adventure  which  they 
related. 

We  were  near  being  precipitated  into  the  water 


THE  ADVENTURES   OF  A  NIGHT.  Ill 

during  the  night.  An  angle  of  the  raft  on  which 
rested  one  of  the  tent  poles,  split  off;  two  of  the 
men  who  lay  in  that  corner  were  carried  down,  and 
their  weight  was  almost  sufficient  to  drag  the  others 
overboard.  Fortunately  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the 
tent  were  fast  together,  or  two  of  us  at  least  would 
have  gone  into  the  sea. 

September  15tk.  The  air  cleared  a  little  as  the 
morning  dawned  ;  and,  although  it  continued  to 
snow  violently,  we  were  conscious  of  being  near 
some  large  object,  which  loomed  high  through  the 
thick  atmosphere.  Whether  it  was  land  or  an  ice 
berg  we  could  not  make  out.  We  were  soon  in  the 
boats,  and  pulling  towards  it  through  the  thin  ice 
and  sludge.  Before  its  character  became  clear,  we 
were  within  a  hundred  yards  of  a  low  sandy  beach, 
covered  with  boulders.  Two  burgomaster-gulls  flew 
overhead  while  we  were  breaking  through  the  young 
ice  along  the  shore  ;  and  they  were  brought  down  by 
the  unerring  gun  of  Petersen.  These  supplied  us 
with  food,  of  which  we  stood  greatly  in  need. 

The  boats  were  drawn  up  above  the  tide ;  and  we 
piled  the  cargo  together  on  the  rocks,  and  covered  it 
with  one  of  the  sails.  The  tent  was  pitched  near  by ; 
and  with  another  sail  an  awning  was  spread  in  front, 
to  shelter  the  cook  and  to  protect  the  lamp.  This 
precaution  was  well  timed,  for  it  soon  began  to  blow 
hard  from  the  southwest,  the  wind  being  accompa 
nied  with  hail.  We  brought  our  clothes-bags  under 
the  awning,  and  changed  our  wet  garments  before 
retiring  to  the  tent. 

We  had  reason  to  congratulate  ourselves  upon 
having  borne  the  sufferings  of  the  previous  night 


112  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

rather  than  expose  the  buffalo-robes,  which  were 
now  found  to  be  quite  dry  ;  and  never  did  hungry, 
cold,  and  tired  men  enjoy  anything  more  than  we 
enjoyed  the  luxury  of  such  means  of  warmth.  We 
were  soon  fast  asleep. 

Meanwhile,  John  was  braving  the  cold,  and  the 
eddies  of  snow  which  came  whirling  into  his  extem 
pore  kitchen.  He  must  have  been  exposed  during 
several  hours  ;  six,  according  to  his  own  account. 
He  certainly  suffered  enough  to  make  the  number 
seem  to  him  twelve.  Poor  fellow!  he  was  almost 
frozen  ;  his  face  and  hands  were  blackened  with 
soot,  and  from  his  eyes  were  running  great  tears, 
which  were  forced  out  by  the  blinding  smoke  that 
he  was  compelled  to  confine  within  the  galley,  by 
closing  up  the  sail  in  order  to  protect  the  lamp 
against  the  wind.  Notwithstanding  his  care,  the 
flame  was  blown  out  no  less  than  five  times  ;  and 
the  reader  will  appreciate  how  great  was  the  annoy 
ance,  if  he  has  ever  tried  to  strike  a  spark  in  a  little 
box  of  light  tinder,  which  he  held  between  his  legs, 
and  endeavored  to  protect  with  his  body,  —  every 
moment  expecting  that  a  drifting  snow  would  pour 
down  upon  and  spoil  it,  or  a  whiff  of  wind  come 
and  carry  it  away.  Once  he  was  about  half  an  hour 
relighting  his  lamp,  which  had  been  blown  out  when 
the  pot  over  it  was  nearly  boiling.  The  tinder  was 
damp,  and  he  could  not,  for  a  long  time,  make  it 
take  fire  ;  and  when  he  succeeded,  and  was  getting 
ready  a  brimstone  match,  the  wind  scattered  the  con 
tents  of  his  box  over  the  ground.  He  had  then  to 
hunt  to  the  bottom  of  his  bag  for  a  little  roll  of 
charred  rags,  which  he  was  fortunate  enough  to  find 


THE   COOK  IN  TROUBLE.  '  113 

not  wetted.  By  the  time  he  had  succeeded  in  re 
lighting  the  fire,  the  contents  of  the  kettle  were  cov 
ered  over  with  a  crust  of  ice. 

Fortunately  John,  whatever  might  be  his  faults, 
was  not  easily  conquered  by  difficulties,  or  we 
should  have  been  deprived  of  our  meal;  for  God 
frey,  who  alone  of  the  party  equalled  the  other  as 
cook,  lacked  his  dogged  perseverance.  Everything, 
therefore,  depended  upon  John.  At  length,  at  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  he  aroused  us,  and  served 
to  us  a  plentiful  stew  of  fox  and  burgomaster.  We 
had  not  tasted  food  for  more  than  four  and  twenty 
hours.  While  we  were  engaged  with  our  meal,  our 
tent  was  almost  blown  over.  Some  time  elapsed  be 
fore  everything  could  be  made  safe.  An  additional 
guy  was  placed  on  the  windward  side,  and  those  at 
the  ends  were  fastened  to  heavier  stones.  The  awn 
ing  was  also  tightened;  and  everything  being  thus 
rendered  apparently  secure,  we  once  more  drew  our 
heads  under  cover.  We  could  do  nothing  for  our 
brave  cook  but  give  him  some  dry  clothing,  the  best 
place  in  the  tent,  and  our  thanks. 

It  was  still  snowing  hard  ;  the  wind  had  increased 
to  a  gale,  and  as  it  went  moaning  above  the  plain,  it 
carried  up  into  the  air  great  white  clouds,  and  pelted 
mercilessly  the  side  of  our  tent  with  sleet  and  hail. 
I  put  my  head  out  of  the  door;  I  could  not  see  fifty 
yards,  The  boats  were  nearly  covered  by  a  great 
drift,  and  our  cargo  was  almost  buried  out  of  sight. 
It  was  not  due  to  ourselves  that  we  were  not  at  sea 
in  that  fearful  storm.  We  knew  not  even  where  we 
were.  We  came  by  no  will  of  our  oArn.  There 

was  a  Providence  in  it. 

10* 


CHAPTER   XI. 

ACROSS    WHALE    SOUND. 

THE  storm  broke  at  about  midnight,  but  the  sky 
remained  overcast  during  the  following  day.  We 
turned  out  early  in  the  morning,  and  looked  around 
us  to  ascertain  our  position.  Everything  was  win 
try.  Deep  snow-drifts  lay  along  the  shore  and  un 
der  the  hill.  Our  tent  was  nearly  buried.  Above 
us  rose  a  dark  cliff,  on  the  south  of  which  was  a 
steep  declivity,  from  which  the  snow  had  all  been 
blown  into  the  deep  valley  on  the  margin  of  which 
we  were  encamped.  The  ice  had  been  driven  in  by 
the  gale,  and  was  pressed  tightly  against  the  shore. 
The  coast  of  the  mainland,  terminating  in  Cape 
Parry,  lay  on  the  left,  and  Northumberland  Island 
on  the  right.  We  had  drifted  far  up  Whale  Sound, 
and  now  occupied  Herbert  Island,  —  at  least  such 
was  our  conjecture. 

There  appearing  no  prospect  of  our  being  able 
to  put  to  sea,  I  took  a  gun  and,  accompanied  by 
Godfrey,  set  off  up  the  valley  in  search  of  game. 
After  a  toilsome  journey  through  the  deep  snow, 
we  reached  the  table-land  which  forms  the  culminat 
ing  ridge  of  the  island.  There  our  views  respecting 
our  position  were  confirmed.  The  ice-pack  filled  up 
the  channel  and  extended  far  to  the  southwest. 


BURGOMASTER-GULLS.  115 

"We  reached  the  camp  late  in  the  afternoon ;  hav 
ing  seen,  but  not  captured,  a  fox,  and  having  dis 
covered  the  footmarks  of  a  hare.  Petersen  had  had 
better  fortune.  He  was  sleeping  soundly  in  the  tent, 
after  dinner,  when  he  was  aroused  by  one  of  the 
rnen  calling  to  him  that  a  flock  of  "  burgomasters  " 
were  floating  in  a  pool  a  little  way  up  the  beach. 
Running  hastily  out,  without  stopping  to  dress,  he 
killed  and  secured  nine  out  of  eleven.  The  mate 
rials  for  two  good  meals  were  thus  added  to  our 
commissariat.  What  we  most  needed,  was  fuel. 
There  remained  only  a  few  pounds  of  the  fat  which 
had  been  brought  from  the  ship  for  such  use.  This 
we  were  saving  for  an  emergency;  and  during  the 
last  few  days  we  had  been  burning  pork,  confidently 
expecting  to  capture  a  seal  or  a  walrus,  and  thus  to 
secure  a  good  stock  of  blubber  ;  but  hitherto  we  had 
been  uniformly  disappointed.  Several  of  these  an 
imals  had  been  observed,  but  they  were  so  shy  that 
we  could,  not  approach  them.  The  foxes  had  exhib 
ited  the  same  timidity.  Many  of  these,  as  already 
stated,  had  been  discovered  on  Northumberland 
Island,  and  I  was  puzzled  to  explain  the  cause  of 
their  shyness.  Petersen  declared  that  a  little  fellow 
whom  he  wounded  soon  after  landing,  had  told  his 
comrades,  of  the  murderous  character  of  our  guns,  and 
that  thus  forewarned,  they  kept  clear  of  us!  At,  all 
events,  be  the  cause  what  it  might,  they  sustained  the 
reputation  of  their  race  for  cunning.  The  readiness 
of  the  seals  to  take  alarm  I  could  more  easily  under 
stand,  for  a  relentless  war  is  waged  against  them  by 
the  natives.  They  are  often  wounded,  and  escape 
from  their  pursuers ;  while  the  foxes,  taken  only  in 


116  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

traps,  never  live  to  tell  tales.  The  product  of  our 
guns,  thus  far,  had  been  eighteen  burgomaster-gulls, 
twelve  eider  ducks,  seven  foxes,  and  one  raven, — 
in  all,  about  forty -eight  pounds.  We  had  obtained, 
besides,  from  the  hut  at  Anoatok,  eight  pounds  of 
walrus  meat,  half  of  which  remained  to  us ;  but  the 
great  question  now  was,  how  should  we  procure  ma 
terial  for  fire  ?  If  necessary,  we  could  eat,  uncooked, 
such  food  as  we  might  have ;  but  how,  without  fire, 
should  we  obtain  water?  for,  henceforth,  we  must 
mainly  depend  upon  melting  the  snow  or  ice.  In 
the  afternoon  Mr.  Sonntag  was  fortunate  enough  to 
find  a  little  rivulet,  from  which  the  kettle  was  filled. 
This  enabled  us-  in  the  evening  to  obtain  a  cup  of 
coffee,  which  luxury  the  scarcity  of  our  fuel  would 
otherwise  have  compelled  us  to  deny  ourselves.  The 
day  was  calm,  for  the  most  part ;  but  as  the  sun 
went  down,  the  wind  blew  again  from  the  south 
west.  Temperature,  26|°. 

I  was  too  much  fatigued  to  make  the  circuit  of 
the  island  ;  and  I  am,  therefore,  not  able  to  add  any 
thing  to  the  chart  of  Captain  Inglefield,  who,  in  the 
little  steamer  Isabella,  ran  up  the  channel  in  Au 
gust  1852.  The  cliffs  above  us  were  composed  of 
sandstone  and  slate,  resting  on  primitive  rock,  which 
was  visible  near  our  camp.  About  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  above  us  were  discovered  two  well  built  Es 
quimau  huts,  which  appeared  to  have  been  recently 
occupied.13 

Hoping  that  fortune  would  continue  to  favor  our 
effort,  we  retired  again  to  our  tent,  and  awoke  on 
the  following  morning  to  find  that  the  wind  had 
hauled  around  to  the  northeast,  and  that  the  clouds 


"HUK!   HUK!   HUK!1'  117 

were  breaking  away.  By  one  o'clock,  p.  M.,  it  was 
quite  clear.  The  thermometer  went  up  to  two  de 
grees  above  the  freezing  point;  the  ice  was  giving 
way,  and  long  leads  were  opening  through  it,  in 
every  direction.  A  narrow  belt  of  heavy  floes  joined 
together  by  young  ice,  unfortunately  lay  close  along 
the  shore  ;  otherwise  we  could  have  launched  our 
boats  at  two  o'clock.  To  break  through  this  belt 
would  have  occupied  us  until  night;  and  deeming  it 
imprudent  again  to  trust  ourselves  in  the  darkness 
to  an  uncertain  channel  we  concluded  to  remain 
where  we  were,  and  to  start  fresh  with  the  early 
morn. 

The  morn  broke  upon  us  bright,  clear,  calm,  and 
summer-like.  The  young  ice,  neither  strong  enough 
to  bear  nor  frail  enough  to  yield  easily,  seemed  for  a 
time  likely  to  baffle  us ;  but  by  breaking  it  up  with 
our  boat-hooks  and  poles,  we  finally  succeeded  in 
effecting  our  escape ;  not,  however,  until  an  hour 
after  the  sun  had  passed  the  meridian.  The  way 
appeared  to  be  free  toward  the  mainland,  for  which 
we  pulled.  After  we  had  been  under  oars  a  couple 
of  hours,  a  light  breeze  sprang  up  from  east-north 
east  ;  once  more  our  canvas  was  spread,  and  our 
ears  were  again  gladdened  by  the  music  of  gurg 
ling  waters  as  the  boats  rushed  onward  through  the 
rippled  sea. 

We  struck  the  coast  at  about  twenty  miles  above 
Cape  Parry.  Passing  under  the  north  cape  of  Bur 
den  Bay,  we  were  surprised  to  hear  human  voices  on 
the  shore.  That  they  were  Esquimaux  we  knew 
from  the  peculiar  «  Huk  !  Huk  !  Huk !  "  —  their  hail 
ing  cry.  Upon  approaching  the  land,  a  man  and  a 


118  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

boy  were  discovered  running  down  the  hill  toward 
the  beach;  and  when  we  came  near  they  were  stand 
ing  close  to  the  water's  edge.     Petersen  held  a  con 
versation  with  the  man,  while  the  boy  ran  off  over 
the  rocks  and  was  soon  out  of  sight. 

The  man  was  "  Kalutunah,"  the  Angekok*  of  his 
tribe,  and  one  of  our  friends  of  last  winter.  He  in 
formed  us  that  he  lived  at  a  short  distance  up  the 
bay,  where  there  was  a  colony  of  his  people,  to  which 
he  invited  us  to  accompany  him  ;  promising  that  we 
should  have  some  blubber  and  meat,  and  that  he 
would  pilot  us  into  the  harbor  if  we  would  take  him 
into  our  "  Oomeak."  The  boy  had  gone  to  spread 
the  alarm  ;  and,  while  we  were  parleying  with  Kalu 
tunah,  a  crowd  of  men,  women,  and  children,  with  a 
great  number  of  howling  dogs,  were  seen  streaming 
toward  us  along  tne  shore,  all  running  at  full  speed, 
flinging  their  arms  about,  and  mingling  their  voices 
together  in  unintelligible  gleefulness.  The  chief 
burden  of  their  exclamations  seemed  to  be  "  Kabul- 
enet !  Kabulenet !  Oomeak  !  Oomeak  !  "  —  "  White 
men  and  ships  !  white  men  and  ships  !  "  To  avoid 
the  impetuous  avalanche,  we  drew  hastily  alongside 
of  a  rock,  and,  taking  the  Angekok  on  board,  pushed 
off  and  pulled  toward  the  settlement,  the  crowd  fol 
lowing  us  along  the  beach.  The  prospect  of  getting 
some  blubber  justified  us  in  losing  a  little  time. 

Our  pilot  had  never  been  in  a  boat  before ;  and 
he  seemed  to  experience  all  the  enjoyment  of  a 
child  at  the  possession  of  a  new  toy.  "  Tek-kona! 
tek-kona !  "  —  "  Look  at  me  !  look  at  me  !  "  was  his 

*  The  Angekok  of  the  Esquimaux  corresponds,  very  nearly,  to  the 
Medicine-Man  of  the  North  American  Indians. 


A  MERRY  LANDING.  119 

oft-repeated  salutation  to  his  envious,  yet  admiring 
friends,  who  were  unceasing  in  their  importunities 
to  be  treated  in  like  manner.  The  Oomeak  and 
the  pale  faces  were  probably  the  greatest  wonders 
they  had  ever  seen. 

The  bay  was  covered  with  pancake-ice,*  which 
greatly  retarded  our  progress ;  and  it  was  nightfall 
when  we  reached  the  settlement,  a  mile  and  a  half 
up  the  bay.  The  whole  colony  eagerly  assisted  us 
in  landing  the  boats  and  in  carrying  up  the  cargo. 
About  twenty  of  them,  as  if  it  were  fine  sport, 
seized  the  painter  and  the  gunwale,  and  endeavored 
to  imitate  us  in  every  motion ;  breaking  out  into 
loud  peals  of  laughter  whenever  they  made  a  mis 
take.  The  subject  which  caused  them  most  merri 
ment  was  the  "  Heave-oh  !  "  of  the  sailors.  This 
they  attempted  to  imitate  ;  and  it  was  very  amusing 
to  observe  their  efforts  to  chime  in  and  keep  time. 
They  could  not  approach  nearer  than  "  I-e-u  !  " 
They  afterward  i-e-u-d  everything,  and  "  I-e-u ! 
i-e-u  !  "  rang  through  the  settlement  the  livelong 
night. 

We  were  landed  in  a  little  cove.  To  the  right 
and  left,  about  thirty  yards  apart,  stood  two  masses 
of  rock  twenty  feet  high,  which  nicely  protected  our 
harbor.  The  summits  of  these  little  capes  were  level ; 
and  on  the  table  to  the  right  we  pitched  our  camp 
and  stowed  our  cargo.  From  the  head  of  the  cove 
the  land  rose  by  a  gentle  slope,  which,  at  the  dis 
tance  of  a  hundred  and  thirty  yards,  terminated 

*  This  term  is  applied  to  young  ice  mixed  with  snow,  which  has  been 
broken  up  by  the  waves,  and  which,  being  tough,  has  been  rounded  into 
little  cakes  by  the  water  agitated  by  the  wind. 


120          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

abruptly  against  a  long  line  of  cliffs  similar  in  ap 
pearance  and  formation  to  those  of  Northumberland 
Island,  already  described.  Directly  in  front,  on  the 
slope,  and  at  fifty  yards  from  the  beach,  in  the  midst 
of  rocks  and  boulders,  stood  the  settlement,  —  two 
stone  huts,  twenty  yards  apart!  It  seemed  more 
fitted  for  the  dwelling-place  of  wild  animals  than 
for  the  home  of  human  beings.  Around  it  was  a 
wilderness  of  rocks  and  snow  and  ice. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

AtfONG   THE    ESQUIMAUX. 

OUR  savage  friends  were  kind  and  generous. 
They  anticipated  our  every  wish.  One  of  the 
young  women,  true  to  the  instincts  of  her  sex,  ran 
off  to  the  valley,  with  a  dozen  boys  and  girls  at  her 
heels,  and  filled  our  kettles  with  water.  Kalutu- 
nah's  koona  (wife)  brought  us  a  steak  of  seal,  and  a 
dainty  piece  of  liver.  All  smiled  at  the  slowly-burn 
ing  canvas  wick  of  our  lamp,  and  at  the  sputtering 
salt  fat;  and  the  chief  sent  his  daughter  for  some 
dried  moss  and  blubber.  We  gave  them  a  share  of 
our  meal,  offered  them  a  taste  of  coffee,  and  passed 
around  some  pieces  of  ship-biscuit.  The  biscuit 
proved  too  hard  for  their  teeth,  and,  until  they  saw 
us  eat,  they  could  not  divine  its  use.  They  laughed 
and  nibbled  at  it  alternately,  and  then  stuck  it  into 
their  boots,  —  their  general  temporary  receptacle  for 
all  curiosities.  They  made  wry  faces  over  the  coffee, 
and  a  general  laugh  arose  against  the  Angekok,  who 
persisted  in  taking  a  drink  of  the  hot  liquid.  We 
had,  altogether,  an  amusing  time  with  them.  The 
evening  being  warm,  we  sat  upon  the  rocks  for  sev 
eral  hours;  and  after  supper,  our  men  lighted  their 
pipes.  This  capped  the  climax  of  our  strange  cus- 
11 


122  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

toms.  The  Esquimaux  seemed  amazed;  and  look 
ed  first  at  us,  then  at  each  other,  then  at  us  again. 
They  evidently  thought  it  a  religious  ceremony,  see 
ing  how  solemn  were  our  faces.  At  length  I  could 
not  abstain  from  a  smile;  the  signal  thus  given 
was  followed  by  shouting,  clapping  of  hands,  and 
general  confusion  among  the  troop.  They  ran 
about,  puffing  out  their  cheeks,  and  imitating,  as 
nearly  as  they  could,  the  motions  of  the  smokers. 
Kalutunah,  who  was  determined  to  try  everything, 
begged  to  be  allowed  to  smoke  a  pipe.  One  being 
handed  to  him,  he  was  directed  to  take  a  long  and 
deep  inhalation  ;  this  accomplished,  he  desired  no 
more,  and  his  rueful  face  brought  the  mirth  of  the 
party  again  upon  him. 

Having  thus  established  the  most  kindly  rela 
tions,  we  presented  a  needle  to  each  of  the  women, 
which  greatly  delighted  them ;  and  having  nothing 
else  to  offer  us  in  return,  they  started  off  in  a  body 
and  brought  us  a  few  pieces  of  blubber.  This  was 
what  we  most  wanted,  and  they  were  asked  to  bar 
ter  more  of  it  for  a  knife.  The  question  must  have 
been  misunderstood  ;  for,  an  old  woman  who  was 
called  Eglavfit,  (meaning  intestines,)  and  who  seemed 
to  be  one  in  authority,  told  a  long  story  representing 
how  poor  they  were,  how  unsuccessful  they  had  been 
in  the  hunt,  how  they  would  soon  have  no  fire  and 
nothing  to  eat,  and  how  the  winter  would  soon  be 
upon  them ;  in  short,  if  we  could  believe  her,  they 
were  just  on  the  eve  of  dying.  I  had  heard  such  sto 
ries  before,  nearer  the  equator,  when  substantial  fa 
vors  were  likely  to  be  required ;  and  I  began  to  suspect 
that  we  had  commenced  at  the  wrong  end  with  our 


TRADING  FOR  BLUBBER.  123 

negotiations.  Accordingly,  I  suggested  to  Petersen 
the  propriety  of  saying  that  we  came  for  the  pur 
pose  of  bestowing  numerous  blessings  upon  them  ; 
that  we  abounded  in  knives,  needles,  wood,  and  iron, 
and  that  we  expected,  in  return  for  our  bountiful 
gifts,  such  of  their  paltry  goods  as  we  might  require 
during  our  journey  among  their  people.  Petersen 
acted  upon  the  suggestion,  and  interpreted  my  speech 
to  them  in  a  very  solemn  manner.  Whether  because 
of  the  speech,  the  sudden  exhibition  which  followed 
of  the  coveted  knives,  or  the  disposition  to  do  a  good 
thing,  I  cannot  say,  but  certain  it  is,  that  the  voice 
of  the  old  woman  gave  place  to  that  of  the  dark- 
skinned  Nalegak  (chief)  who  replied,  quite  laconically, 
"  The  white  men  shall  have  blubber ! " 

They  were  in  fact  badly  provided.  The  hunt  had 
latterly  been  unproductive,  and  they  had  not,  in  the 
whole  settlement,  food  for  three  days.  They  were 
to  hunt  on  the  morrow,  and,  if  successful,  they 
would  give  us  the  required  supplies,  in  case  we 
would  wait.  This  was  all  very  fine,  but  the  game 
was  still  in  the  sea. 

There  was  clearly  manifested  a  disposition  to  fur 
nish  us  with  what  they  could  command.  They  all 
went  away  in  a  body,  and  returned  in  a  few  minutes, 
each  with  a  piece  of  fat,  —  some  of  the  pieces  being 
not  larger  than  one's  hand.  Every  one  expected,  of 
course,  his  or  her  reward ;  but  it  was  quite  impossible 
to  pay  them  in  this  manner,  and  we  therefore  divided 
them  into  families,  giving  to  each  of  these  something. 
Thus  were  distributed  a  few  small  pieces  of  wood,  a 
dozen  needles,  and  a  couple  of  knives.  Altogether, 
the  supply  of  blubber  was  sufficient  to  fill  our  keg. 


124          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

We  obtained,  also,  a  small  bagfull  of  dry  moss, 
which  served  us  much  better  for  lamp-wick  than 
canvas  or  rope-yarn,  which  we  had  previously  used. 
We  could  not  obtain  any  food  ;  for  the  poor  crea 
tures  had  none  either  to  give  or  to  barter. 

It  was  nearly  midnight  before  these  negotiations 
were  completed.  Being  told  that  we  wished  to 
sleep,  the  Esquimaux  left  us  with  numerous  friendly 
professions ;  and  the  camp  was  soon  quiet.  They 
could  not,  however,  wholly  resist  the  temptation  to 
be  with  us;  and,  arming  themselves  with  a  little 
piece  of  blubber  or  moss,  they  would  steal  quietly 
down  to  the  camp,  one  or  more  at  a  time  ;  and,  offer 
ing  their  present  to  the  watch,  would  cautiously  open 
the  tent  door  and  look  in  upon  the  sleepers,  and  then 
scamper  away  like  children  caught  in  some  forbid 
den  act. 

With  Stephenson,  who  was  on  the  first  watch,  I 
marched  up  and  down  the  short  plain  in  front  of 
the  tent,  talking  of  home  and  of  our  future  pros 
pects.  It  was  a  glorious  night.  Twilight  hung 
upon  the  mountains  ;  the  stars  twinkled  through  the 
clear  atmosphere ;  and  there  were  no  sounds  to 
break  the  stillness  save  the  heavy  breathing  of  the 
sleepers,  the  cawing  of  a  solitary  raven,  and  the 
occasional  bursts  of  merriment  which  broke  from 
the  huts  upon  the  hill-side. 

Leaving  Stephenson  at  his  guard,  I  embraced 
the  opportunity  to  pay  a  visit  to  these  huts.  I  have 
already  indicated  their  locality ;  and  I  will,  as  near 
ly  as  possible,  describe  their  form  and  inieri-eur.  I 
found  them  to  be  in  shape  much  like  an  old-fash 
ioned  country  clay  oven,  square  in  front,  and  sloping 


AN  ESQUIMAU  HUT.  125 

back  into  the  hill.  They  were  now  covered  with 
snow,  and  until  after  entering  one  of  them,  I  could 
not  discover  of  what  material  they  were  made.  To 
get  inside  I  was  obliged  to  crawl  on  my  hands  and 
knees  through  a  covered  passage  about  twelve  feet 
long.  Kalutunah,  upon  hearing  my  footsteps,  came 
out  to  welcome  me,  which  he, did  by  patting  me  on 
the  back  and  grinning  in  my  face.  Preceding  me 
with  a  smoking  torch,  which  was  a  piece  of  burning 
moss  saturated  with  fat,  he  advanced  through  the 
low  narrow  passage,  tramping  over  several  snarling 
dogs  and  half-grown  puppies.  After  making  two  or 
three  turns,  I  observed  at  last  a  bright  light  stream 
ing  down  through  a  hole,  into  which  my  guide  ele 
vated  his  body ;  and  then,  moving  to  one  side,  he 
made  room  for  his  guest.  I  found  myself  in  a  den 
in  which  I  could  not  stand  upright,  but  which  was 
crowded  with  human  beings  of  both  sexes,  and  of  all 
ages  and  sizes.  I  was  received  with  a  hilarious 
shout  which  assured  me  of  welcome.  Like  a  flock 
of  sheep  crowding  into  a  pen,  they  packed  them 
selves  in  the  corners  to  make  room  for  me  on  the 
only  seat  which  I  could  discover.  I  had  come  to 
gratify  my  own  curiosity,  but  theirs  was  even  more 
rapacious  than  mine,  and  must  be  first  satisfied. 
Everything  I  had  on  and  about  me  underwent  the 
closest  examination.  My  long  beard  greatly  excited 
their  interest  and  admiration.  Being  themselves 
without  this  hirsute  appendage,  or  at  most  having 
only  a  few  stiff  hairs  upon  the  upper  lip  and  the 
point  of  the  chin,  I  could  readily  appreciate  their 
curiosity.  They  touched  it  and  stroked  it,  patting 

me  all  the  while   on  the  back,  and   hanging  en  to 

11* 


126  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURXEY. 

my  arms,  legs,  and  shoulders.  I  was  a  very  Pe 
ter  Parley  among  a  crowd  of  overgrown  children. 
They  were  greatly  puzzled  over  my  woollen  clothing, 
and  could  not  comprehend  of  what  kind  of  skins  it 
was  made.  The  nearest  that  I  could  approach  to  a 
description  was  that  it  grew  on  an  animal  looking 
like  an  "Ukalek"  (hare).  That  it  was  not  skin  I 
could  not  make  them  understand.  Hans,  being  once 
importuned  at  the  ship  on  the  same  subject,  told 
some  of  them,  rather  pettishly,  that  it  was  "  man 
skin ; "  and  this  I  found  seemed  to  be  the  general 
impression.  My  pockets  did  not  escape  them  ;  and 
my  pipe,  which  one  of  the  boys  drew  out,  occasioned 
much  amusement,  as  it  passed  around  from  hand  to 
hand,  and  from  mouth  to  mouth.  Kalutunah  drew 
my  knife  from  its  sheath,  pressed  it  to  his  heart;  and 
then  with  a  roguish  leer  stuck  it  in  his  boot.  I 
shook  my  head,  and,  with  a  laugh,  he  returned  it  to 
its  place.  It  was  a  prize  which  he  greatly  coveted. 
He  had  not  yet  heard  of  the  Ten  Commandments, 
and  he  could  not  resist  the  desire  to  possess  it. 
He  drew  it  out  half  a  dozen  times,  exclaiming  be 
seechingly,  as  he  hugged  it,  "  Me  ?  give  me  ?  " 
There  was  an  air  of  innocent  simplicity  about  the 
fellow  which  pleased  me ;  and  I  had  nearly  paid  for 
my  admiration  with  my  knife.  Fortunately,  how 
ever,  I  did  not  wholly  forget  that  charity  begins  .at 
home.  My  pistol  they  handled  with  great  solem 
nity  ;  with  the  marvellous  effect  of  our  firearms  they 
had  already  been  familiarized ;  for,  as  we  entered  the 
harbor,  Bonsall  had,  with  his  gun,  dropped  a  burgo 
master-gull  among  them. 

During  the  incidents  just  detailed,  I  found  leisure 


THE  INTEPJOli.  127 

to  examine  the  hut.  The  whole  interior  was  about 
ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  five  and  a  half  feet  high. 
The  walls  were  made  of  stones,  moss,  and  the  bones 
of  whale,  narwhal,  and  other  animals.  They  were 
not  arched,  but  drawn  in  gradually  from  the  foun 
dation,  and  capped  by  long  slabs  of  slate-stone, 
stretching  from  side  to  side.  The  floor  was  covered 
with  thin  flat  stones.  Half  of  this  floor  at  the  back 
part  of  the  hut  was  elevated  a  foot.  This  elevation 
was  called  "  breck ; "  and  it  served  both  as  bed  and 
seat,  being  covered  with  dry  grass,  over  which  were 
spread  bear  and  dog-skins.  At  the  corners  in  front 
were  similar  elevations;  under  one  of  which  lay  a 
litter  of  pups,  with  their  mother,  and  under  the 
other  was  stowed  a  joint  of  meat.  The  front  of 
the  hut  was  square,  and  through  it,  above  the  pas 
sage-way,  opened  a  window ;  a  square  sheet  of 
strips  of  dried  intestine,  sewed  together,  admitted 
the  light.  The  hole  of  entrance  in  the  floor  was 
close  to  the  front  wall,  and  was  covered  with  a  piece 
of  seal-skin.  The  walls  were  lined  with  seal  or  fox- 
skins,  stretched  to  dry.  In  the  cracks  between  the 
stones  were  thrust  whipstocks,  and  bone  pegs  on 
which  hung  coils  of  harpoon-lines.  On  one  side  of 
me,  at  the  edge  of  the  "  breck,"  sat  an  old  woman, 
and  on  the  other  side  a  young  one,  each  busily  en 
gaged  in  attending  to  a  smoky,  greasy  lamp.  A 
third  woman  sat  in  a  corner,  similarly  occupied. 
The  lamps  were  made  of  soapstone,  and  in  shape 
much  resembled  a  clam-shell,  being  about  eight 
inches  in  diameter.  The  cavity  was  filled  with  oil, 
and  on  the  straight  edge  a  flame  was  burning  quite 
brilliantly.  The  wick  which  supplied  fuel  to  the 


128  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

flame,  was  of  moss.  The  only  business  of  the 
women  seemed  to  be,  to  prevent  the  lamps  from 
smoking,  and  to  keep  them  supplied  with  blubber, 
large  pieces  of  which  were  placed  in  them,  the  heat 
of  the  flame  trying  out  the  oil.  About  three  inches 
above  this  flame,  hung,  suspended  from  the  ceiling, 
an  oblong  square  pot  of  the  same  material  as  the 
lamp,  in  which  something  was  slowly  simmering. 
Over  this  was  suspended  a  rack,  made  of  bear  rib- 
bones  lashed  together  crosswise,  on  which  were 
placed  to  dry,  stockings,  mittens,  pantaloons,  and 
other  articles  of  clothing.  The  inmates  had  no 
other  fire  than  was  supplied  by  the  lamps,  nor  did 
they  need  any.  The  hut  was  absolutely  hot.  So 
many  persons  crowded  into  so  small  a  space  would, 
of  themselves,  keep  the  place  warm.  I  counted 
eighteen,  and  may,  very  probably,  have  missed  two 
or  three  small  ones.  Centering  each  around  its  own 
particular  lamp  and  pot  were  three  families,  one 
of  which  was  represented  by  three  generations. 
These  three  families  numbered,  in  all,  thirteen  indi 
viduals  ;  but  beside  these  there  were  some  visitors 
from  the  other  hut.  The  air  of  the  place  was  insuf 
ferable,  except  for  a  short  time.  The  half  decom 
posed  scraps  of  fur,  fat,  and  flesh,  which  lay  on  the 
floor  and  breck,  or  were  heaped  in  the  corners  ;  the 
poisonous  multiplicity  of  breathing  lungs;  the  steam 
which  rose  from  the  heated  bodies  of  the  inmates; 
and  the  smoke  of  the  lamp?, —  altogether  created 
an  atmosphere  which  was  almost  stifling.  There 
may  have  been  a  vent-hole,  but  I  did  not  see  any. 
I  perspired  as  if  in  the  tropics.  Perceiving  this,  the 
company  invited  me  to  imitate  them,  and  instantly 


ESQUIMAU  HOSPITALITY.  129 

naif  a  dozen  boys  and  girls  seized  my  coat  and 
boots,  preparatory  to  stripping  me.  But  I  had 
brought  from  home  certain  conventional  notions, 
and  I  declined  the  intended  courtesy,  telling  them 
that  I  must  go  back  to  my  people.  First,  however, 
I  must  have  something  to  eat.  This  was  an  invita 
tion  which  I  feared ;  and  now  that  it  had  come.  I 
knew  that  it  would  be  unwise  to  decline  it.  The 
expression  of  thanks  (koyenak),  was  one  of  the 
few  in  their  language  that  I  knew,  and  of  this  I 
made  the  most.  They  laughed  heartily  when  I  said 
"  Koyenak,"  in  reply  to  their  invitation  to  eat ;  and 
immediately  a  not  very  beautiful  young  damsel 
poured  some  of  the  contents  of  one  of  the  before- 
mentioned  pots  into  a  skin  dish,  and  after  sipping  it 
to  make  sure,  as  I  supposed,  that  it  was  not  too 
hot,  she  passed  it  to  me  over  a  group  of  heads.  At 
first,  my  courage  forsook  me ;  but  all  eyes  were  fixed 
upon  me,  and  it  would  have  been  highly  impolitic 
to  shrink.  I  therefore  shut  my  eyes,  held  my  nose, 
swallowed  the  dose,  and  retired.  I  was  afterwards 
told  that  it  was  their  great  delicacy,  which  had  been 
proffered  to  me,  —  a -soup  made  by  boiling  together 
blood,  oil,  and  seal-intestines.  It  was  well  that  I 
was  ignorant  of  this  fact. 

I  felt  a  great  relief  when  again  in  the  cool  fresh 
air.  The  Angekok  and  his  daughter  escorted  me  to 
the  tent,  each  with  a  torch.  Dismissing  them  at  the 
door,  I  sought  my  narrow  place,  among  my  sleeping 
comrades,  and  was  soon  wandering  far  away  from 
the  Esquimaux  and  their  filthy  huts. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

HOPES    CHECKED. 

WE  were  stirring  with  the  dawn ;  and,  aided  by 
the  people  of  Netlik,  prepared  to  continue  our  jour 
ney.  The  valuable  addition  which  we  had  made 
to  our  cargo,  greatly  encouraged  us.  It  came  most 
opportunely,  when  we  had  begun  to  despair  of  pro 
curing  anything  important  with  our  guns. 

Our  short  intercourse  with  these  simple  people 
seemed  to  have  created  a  mutual  attachment;  and 
very  decided  manifestations  of  sadness  were  exhib 
ited  by  our  savage  helpers  as  we  parted  from  them. 
We  had  .to  regret  that  it  was  not  in  our  power  to 
leave  with  them  more  substantial  proofs  of  our  re 
gard.  They  were  poor  beyond  description.  Nature 
seemed  to  have  supplied  them  with  nothing  but  life, 
and  they  appeared  to  have  wrested  from  the  animal 
world  everything  which,  they  possessed.  They  were 
clothed  wholly  in  skins ;  their  weapons  of  the  chase 
were  fashioned  of  bone ;  they  had  neither  wood  nor 
iron  ;  and  they  subsisted  exclusively  on  animal  food. 
The  few  pieces  of  iron  which  we  had,  our  knives,  or 
even  the  hoops  upon  our  kegs,  would  have  been  a 
mine  of  riches  to  them ;  and  our  oars  and  poles 
would,  for  many  years  to  come,  have  placed  them 


POVERTY  OF  THE  ESQUIMAUX.  131 

beyond  want  for  harpoons  and  lances.  We  gave 
them  what  we  could  spare  of  our  slender  stores,  and 
received,  in  return,  a  few  presents  valuable  to  us. 
These  were,  an  addition  to  our  stock  of  blubber, 
and  two  or  three  pairs  of  boots  and  mittens. 

Not  recognizing,  "  Thou  shalt  not  steal,"  or  any 
equivalent  precept,  as  more  than  a  suggestion  of 
public  convenience  among  themselves,  it  was  very 
natural  that  they  should  embrace  every  opportunity 
to  rob  us.  Although  a  close  watch  was  kept  upon 
them,  yet,  when  we  had  passed  our  equipment  into 
the  boats,  piece  by  piece,  the  hatchet  was  found  to 
be  missing.  Nobody,  of  course,  had  seen  it.  Peter- 
sen  openly  charged  them  with  having  stolen  it.  They 
boldly  scouted  the  charge,  —  the  good  old  gray- 
haired,  honest  chief  declaring,  that  "  his  people  did 
not  steal."  One  fellow,  in  particular,  was  loud  in 
protesting  against  the  imputation,  and  on  this  ac 
count  he  was  suspected.  He  was  actually  standing 
upon  the  hatchet,  trying  to  conceal  it  with  his  huge 
bear-skin  moccasins.  Petersen  alone  could  talk  to 
them;  and,  therefore,  the  rest  of  us  kept  quiet.  I 
soon  perceived  that  his  Danish  blood  was  upr  and 
the  thief  was  not  slow  to  make  the  same  observa 
tion.  With  a  laugh  he  stooped  and  picked  up  the 
hatchet,  offering,  with  the  -other  hand,  as  an  olive- 
branch  of  peace,  a  pair  of  mittens.  Had  it  not  been 
for  the  detention,  I  should  have  felt  more  disposed 
io  laugh  than  to  be  vexed  at  the  incident.  The 
Esquimaux  followed  us  along  the  beach,  and  as  we 
pulled  across  the  bay  we  could  hear  their  shouts 
long  after  they  were  lost  to  sight. 

The  air  being  quite  calm,  and  the  temperature  not 


132  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

above  the  freezing  point,  the  young  ice  which  had 
formed  during  the  night  was  not.  broken  up;  so  that 
our  progress  was  necessarily  slow,  and  our  labor 
severe.  It  was  after  sunset  when  we  reached  Cape 
Parry  ;  and  here,  again,  was  the  everlasting  pack, 
How  far  it  extended  out  to  sea  we  could  not  tell ; 
but  it  came  in  close  to  the  land,  and  being  in  mo 
tion,  in  consequence  of  a  heavy  swell  from  the  south 
west,  we  thought  it  unsafe  to  attempt  to  penetrate 
it  in  the  darkness ;  and  accordingly  we  sought  a  har 
bor  behind  a  low  point  of  land,  and  camped. 

We  were  not  prepared  for  this  rebuff,  and  we 
felt  keenly  disappointed.  Cape  Parry  was  the  point 
at  which  had  centered  all  our  hopes.  To  reach 
this  cape,  had  been  our  constant  aim  for  ten  long 
days.  Failing  to  reach  it,  we  must  fail  in  our  en 
terprise :  reaching  it,  there  was,  at  least,  a  fair  pros 
pect  of  success.  From  Northumberland  Island,  as 
has  been  previously  stated,  we  could  see  long  leads 
running  down  the  mainland  ;  and  as  we  looked  out 
from  that  island  none  of  .us  entertained  a  doubt  of 
the  general  openness  of  the  sea  to  the  south.  The 
reader  will,  I  am  sure,  appreciate  our  disappoint 
ment. 

A  good  view  was  obtained,  in  the  morning,  from 
a  neighboring  elevation.  •  The  sea  appeared  to  be 
everywhere  mainly  free  from  ice,  except  directly 
along  the  shore,  the  very  place  where  it  had  been 
previously  most  open.  The  heavy  swell  which  came 
in  from  the  southwest,  proved  conclusively  that 
most  of  the  great  pack  which  lay  spread  out  over  the 
North  Waver  when  we  landed  at  Northumberland 
Island,  had  drifted  away.  Ths  belt  which  now  lay 


THE  EVERLASTING  PACK.  133 

in  our  path,  had  clearly  been  brought  in  by  the 
recent  gale.  What  should  we  do  ?  The  way  was 
open  back  to  the  east  side  of  Northumberland.  In 
that  direction  there  was  very  little  ice  in  sight.  We 
could  still  retreat,  if  we  should  so  choose. 

Our  case  was  apparently  not  yet  hopeless.  It 
was  conjectured,  that  if  we  could  succeed  in  pene 
trating  this  narrow  belt,  the  sea  would  be  found  free 
beyond;  yet,  an  attempt  to  bore  the  pack  at  this 
late  period,  with  the  temperature  at  22°,  and  falling, 
would  be  an  undertaking  fraught  with  serious  dan 
ger.  There  was  but  one  expression  of  sentiment  in 
the  party,  and  that  was,  "try!  "  and  try  we  did,  long 
and  laboriously.  Time  after  time  were  the  beats 
thrust  into  the  leads, —  into  the  very  jaws  of  the 
grinding  ice,  and  as  often  were  they  forced  back. 
Tired  and  defeated,  our  boats  badly  battered,  the 
Ironsides  deeply  dented  along  her  water-line,  the 
Hope  nearly  crushed,  and  leaking  badly,  we  could 
only  avail  ourselves  of  the  change  of  tide,  and  work 
slowly  down  the  shore  through  the  lead  which  it 
opened.  Darkness  overtook  us  near  Hoppner  Point, 
about  seven  miles  below  Cape  Parry.  During  the 
day,  we  saw  several  small  flocks  of  eider  and  king- 
ducks  flying  southward,  but  they  did  not  come  with 
in  shot.  Petersen,  however,  brought  down  a  Kitti- 
wake  gull,  and  Godfrey  killed  a  diver. 

The  following  morning  disclosed  to  us  a  broad 
lead  starting  from  the  land,  about  twelve  miles 
below  us,  and  stretching  southwest  toward  Saun- 
ders  Island.  We  gave  up  the  idea  of  boring  the 
pack,  and  made  for  this  water,  if  we  could  reach 
which,  we  anticipated  that  there  would  be  little  diiJi- 
12 


134  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOUEXEY. 

culty  in  crossing  Wolstenholme  Sound.  The  swell 
kept  the  bay-ice  broken  up,  —  but  opposite  Black- 
wood  Point,  a  low  ledge  of  rocks  checked  its  force ; 
and  the  water  inside  being  smooth,  was  covered  with 
a  crust  too  thick  to  break  through,  which,  at  two 
o'clock,  obliged  us  to  haul  in  to  the  land  and  await 
a  change  of  tide. 

The  tide  not  having  accomplished  for  us  what 
was  expected  of  it,  we  were  compelled  to  camp  at 
ten  o'clock,  p.  M.  During  the  day 'two  seals  were 
seen  ;  one  of  them,  a  large  male,  came  up  near  the 
boat  and  within  close  rifle  shot.  Petersen  took  a 
long  and  true  aim  at  him,  but  the  rifle  missed  fire. 
One  of  the  men  shot  a  king-duck  from  a  flock  which 
flew  overhead ;  and  Petersen  a  ptarmigan,  on  shore. 
T  give  the  incidents  of  the  next  few  days  in  the  more 
concise  log-book  form. 

September  22d.  Sky  clear.  A  strong  breeze  from 
the  southwest  packs  the  ice  closer,  and  keeps  us  pris 
oners.  We  avail  ourselves  of  the  opportunity  to  dry 
our  bedding,  spreading  it  upon  the  rocks.  We  also 
clear  the  ice  out  of  the  boats. 

September  23i/.  The  wind  died  away  during  the 
night,  but  it  had  brought  in  more  floes,  and  the  calm 
favored  the  formation  of  bay-ice.  The  tide  opened 
along  the  shore  a  narrow  lead,  which  we  entered, 
and  advanced  in  it  about  a  mile.  It  was  there 
found  closed,  and  during  the  remainder  of  the  day 
we  progressed  by  breaking  through  the  young  ice. 
By  this  operation,  everything  in  the  boats  became 
covered  with  spray,  which  was  beaten  up  by  the 
poles,  and  which  soon  formed  an  icy  coating.  Our 


BESET.  135 

clothing  was  as  stiff  as  pasteboard.  We  passed 
the  mouth  of  Booth  Sound,  and  were  finally  ar 
rested  within  about  two  miles  of  the  open  water 
for  which  we  had  been  steerinsr.  This  water  still 

O 

remained  mostly  free  from  either  young  or  old  ice. 
At  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  it  blew  heavily 
from  the  northward.  This  looked  unpromising ; 
but,  having  only  two  miles  more  of  this  hard  work, 
wo  kept  up  our  courage. 

September  24th.  The  wind  continued  through  the 
night  to  hold  from  the  northward,  and  it  set  the  ice 
slowly  in  motion  down  the  coast.  It  encroached  a 
little  on  the  water  below  us.  In  the  morning,  the 
wind  hauled  to  the  westward,  and  finally,  about  noon, 
settled  in  the  south-southwest,  and  blew  a  gale.  It 
sent  in  a  heavy  swell,  and  again  we  were  close  pris 
oners.  Sky  overcast.  The  day  was  spent  in  wan 
dering  along  the  coast  in  search  of  game.  Five 
ptarmigans  were  shot  by  Petersen  ;  some  burgomas 
ter-gulls  flew  over  the  camp,  and  were  fired  at  by 
Bonsall,  but  they  were  out  of  reach.  A  school 
of  walrus  were  observed  blowing  in  a  little  pool, 
near  a  berg,  but  they  could  not  be  approached. 
Temperature  20°. 

September  25th.  It  fell  calm  during  the  night. 
The  ice  tightly  hugs  the  shore,  and  is  grinding 
tumultuously  with  the  heavy  swell,  which  abates 
slowly  as  the  day  advances.  There  are  no  signs 
of  a  lead  opening  off  our  camp,  and  many  floes  have 
drifted  into  the  open  water  below  us.  Our  boats 
could  not  live  among  the  ice,  and  we  remain  ashore. 
The  hunters  have  been  out  scouring  the  plain,  but 
they  saw  nothing. 


136  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

September  26t/i.  No  change  except  for  the  worse. 
The  swell  has  subsided ;  the  air  is  cairn  ;  the  tem 
perature  sinks  rapidly,  and  it  is  freezing  hard.  A 
great  quantity  of  trash-ice,  broken  up  into  small 
fragments  by  the  late  swell,  hugs  the  shore. — -Every 
attempt  to  bore  through  it  is  fruitless,  and  the  new 
ice  will  not  bear.  —  We  are  forced  to  retire  again  to 
our  camping-ground  of  yesterday,  as  the  nighf  comes 
on,  and  trust  to  a  shore-breeze,  or  a  change  of  tide, 
to  loosen  the  pack.  The  night  is  dark. 

September  27th.  Worse  and  worse  !  The  old 
ice  is  all  cemented  together.  The  open  water  which 
lay  below  our  camp  yesterday,  is  clogged  with  drift, 
and  is  covered  with  a  glassy  sheet.  The  tempera 
ture  is  still  falling.  At  eight  o'clock,  15°.  Calm 
and  clear. 

We  hauled  the  boats  upon  the  land,  and  cleared 
them  of  ice  which  had  accumulated  under  the  lining. 
At  least  a  barrelfull  was  dug  out  of  the  Hope. 

By  this  brief  record  the  reader  will  perceive  what 
were  the  struggles,  hopes,  and  fears  of  our  little  party 
during  this  critical  period  of  the  expedition.  To 
be  thus  checked,  so  near  to  the  spot  where  a  broad 
expanse  of  water  had  been  seen  ;  and  which,  when 
discovered,  promised  to  give  us  a  passage  south 
ward,  was  felt  to  be  a  hard  fortune.  A  strong 
wind  from  the  east  might  open  the  ice  and  release 
us,  but  otherwise  our  fate  was  sealed,  —  or  at  least 
so  it  seemed.  To  retreat  was  quite  as  impossible 
as  to  advance.  We  could  neither  travel  over  the 
ice  nor  cut  through-  it.  To  live  long  where  we 
were,  seemed  equally  impossible.  The  shore  upon 


THE   CLIMAX.  137 

which  we  were  cast  was  more  bleak  and  barren  than 
any  other  that  we  had  seen  in  this  inhospitable  re 
gion.  The  summer  was  gone,  and  the  winter  was 
pressing  close  upon  its  heels.  The  hills  were  cov 
ered  with  snow ;  the  valleys  were  filled  with  drift ; 
the  streams  were  all  dried  up ;  the  sea  was  shrouded 
in  its  gloomy  mantle.  Night  —  the  long  arctic 
night — was  setting  in;  already  the  sun  was  be 
neath  the  horizon  during  the  greater  part  of  each 
twenty-four  hours,  and  in  a  short  time  he  would  sink 
to  rise  no  more  until  February. 

To  meet  this  period  of  winter  darkness  we  were 
literally  without  any  preparation.  Our  remaining 
provisions  were  scarcely  sufficient  for  two  weeks; 
our  fuel  was  still  more  scanty ;  and  this  fuel  was 
merely  of  a  nature  to  cook  our  food  and  melt  water, 
but  not  to  give  warmth  to  ourselves. 

We  were  not,  however,  morally  unprepared  for 
such  a  fortune.  It  was  one  to  which,  when  leaving 
Rensselaer  Harbor,  we  well  knew  ourselves  to  be 
liable  ;  and  for  several  days  we  had  made  up  our 
minds  that  the  chances  were  at  least  ten  to  one  in 
favor  of  such  a  termination  to  our  undertaking ;  yet 
the  open  water,  toward  which  we  had  so  deter 
minedly  bent  our  course  since  the  21st,  offered  so 
tempting  a  bait,  that  we  had  steadfastly  pursued  it 
until  we  fell  into  this  trap. 

Our  great  sorrow  was,  that  we  had  failed  in  our 
purpose.  Yet,  although  the  object  for  which  we  had 
•tlriven  was  not  attained,  we  knew  that  'it  was  not 
through  our  fault,  but  our  misfortune  ;  and,  since  it 
had  been  our  duty  to  persevere  as  long  as  there  was 
the  least  possibility  of  succeeding,  it  was  now  no  less 

12* 


138  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

our  duty  than  our  instinct  to  endeavor  to  preserve 
our  lives. 

Accordingly,  as  soon  as  it  became  evident  that  the 
sudden  closing  in  of  the  winter  had  hopelessly  beset 
us,  we  began  to  look  about  us,  and  to  devise  means 
for  meeting  future  emergencies.  We  must  first  pre 
serve  what  was  left  of  our  stores ;  secondly,  con 
struct  a  place  to  shelter  us ;  and,  thirdly,  add  to  our 
means  of  subsistence.  We  could  draw  no  inspira 
tion  from  the  desolation  around  us.  Our  trust  was 
in  God  and  our  own  efforts. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

BUILDING    A   HUT. 

I  AVAIL  myself  of  the  opportunity  offered  by  the 
beginning  of  a  new  chapter,  to  describe  our  locality. 
We  were  about  sixteen  miles  below  Cape  Parry, 
nearly  midway  between  this  cape  and  Saunders  Isl 
and,  —  or,  more  accurately,  midway  between  Whale 
and  Wolstenholme  Sounds.  The  coast  trends  south 
east  by  south.  It  is  low,  and  of  course  rocky;  the 
rocks  are  primitive.  The  shore  is  marked  by  numer 
ous  small  indentations,  and  several  low  points  run 
out  into  the  sea.  The  largest  of  these  indentations 
is  Booth  Sound.  This  sound,  or  rather  the  bay 
inside  of  it,  is  about  four  miles  in  diameter  ;  and 
appearing  at  a  little  distance  to  be  surrounded  by 
land,  looks  much  like  a  lake.  The  entrance  to  it 
is  very  narrow ;  its  low  capes  overlap  each  other,  and 
as  you  look  in  from  seaward,  they  appear  to  be  con 
nected.  In  the  centre  of  this  bay  stands  a  very  re 
markable  island,  called  Fitzclarence  Rock,  which  is 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high;  a  truncated 
cone  surmounted  by  a  square-faced  cap.  At  ihe 
head  of  the  bay  rises  a  vertical  cliff  from  four  to  five 
hundred  feet  in  height,  which  stretches  northward, 
and  is  continuous  with  the  abrupt  wall  of  Cape 


140  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

Parry.  At  a  little  distance  from  the  shore,  the  low 
land  in  front,  which  is  a  belt  varying  from  one  to 
four  miles  in  width,  would  be  overlooked ;  and  the 
long  range  of  cliffs  would  seern  to  be  the  coast  line. 

The  cape  which  bounds  Booth  Sound  on  the 
south,  is  thirteen  miles  below  Cape  Parry;  and  be 
yond  it  to  the  south  are  two  other  capes,  at  the 
distances  respectively  of  five  miles  and  six  miles. 
Between  the  last  two  opens  another  bay  or  inlet 
Cunning,  like  Booth  Bay,  back  to  the  base  of  the 
cliffs,  —  or  rather,  to  the  foot  of  their  sloping  debris. 
Into  this  bay  descends  a  small  glacier;  another  glac 
ier  rests  in  a  valley  opening  into  Booth  Bay.  These 
are  about  four  miles  apart,  and  they  seem  to  join, 
or  rather  to  originate,  in  the  same  mer  de  glace 
above. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  between  the  ocean  on 
the  one  side,  and  the  cliffs  on  the  other;  and  be 
tween  Booth  Bay  on  the  north,  and  the  other  bay  on 
the  south,  we  have  a  low  rocky  plain,  four  miles 
in  diameter,  rudely  estimated.  Its  surface  is  undu 
lating,  its  highest  point  being  about  thirty  feet  above 
tide;  and  it  is  covered  with  boulders  of  large  and 
small  sizes.  We  occupied  this  plain  ;  and  our  tent 
was  pitched  on  the  flat  surface  of  a  rock  about  thirty 
yards  from  the  sea,  and  midway  between  the  bays 
which  bound  the  plain  on  the  north  and  south.  A 
more  bleak  and  barren  spot  I  thought  could  not  be 
found  in  the  whole  world.  Here  we  were  to  strug 
gle  for  existence. 

It  was  not  until  the  morning  of  the  28th  of  Sep 
tember,  that  we  fully  made  up  our  minds  that  es 
cape  was  hopeless.  Without  wasting  time  in  use- 


SEARCHING  FOR  A  SITE.  141 

less  lamentation,  we  at  once  proceeded  to  secure  our 
equipment;  which  we  did  by  carrying  it,  piece  by 
piece,  to  a  ledge  on  a  rock  near  at  hand,  carefully 
keeping  tally  to  see  that  no  small  articles  were  miss 
ing.  Everything  being  thus  made  safe,  we  spread 
over  the  whole  our  sails,  and  fastened  them  down 
with  heavy  stones,  that  the  wind  might  not  carry 
them  away.  The  boats  were  then  capsized  to  pre 
vent  their  being  filled  with  snow;  and  the  oars  were 
stowed  under  them. 

This  being  done,  we  began  to  look  about  us  for  a 
place  to  build  a  hut;  as  we  could  not  live  in  our 
tent.  It  was  first  suggested  that  we  should  con 
struct  a  house  after  the  manner  of  the  Esquimaux; 
but  it  was  soon  concluded  that  we  could  not  in  a 
fortnight  collect  together  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
stones  for  such  purpose,  if  indeed  we  could  do  it  at 
all.  Accordingly  this  plan  was  abandoned  as,  under 
the  circumstances,  quite  impracticable.  While  we 
were  anxiously  considering  what  we  should  do,  wan 
dering  about  without  discovering  any  feasible  mode 
of  overcoming  our  difficulty,  one  of  the  party  acci 
dentally  found  a  crevice  in  the  rock,  not  far  from 
the  camp,  —  indeed  directly  opposite  to  the  landing, 
and  about  forty  yards  from  the  shore.  This  crevice 
which  ran  parallel  with  the  coast,  was  about  eight 
feet  in  width  and  quite  level  at  the  bottom.  On  the 
east  side  the  rock  was  six  feet  high,  smooth,  and 
vertical,  except  that  it  was  broken  in  two  places, 
forming  at  each  a  shelf.  The  other  side  was  lower, 
being  not  more  than  from  three  to  four  feet  high, 
and  was  round  and  sloping.  As  if  to  make  up  for 
this  defect  it  was,  however,  cut  by  a  lateral  cleft. 


142  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

We  at  once  determined  upon  this  place  for  fae 
hut.  The  rocks  would  save  us  the  labor  of  much 
carrying  of  stones  and  building,  and  the  little  break 
on  the  western  side  would  answer  for  a  door 
way. 

Having  now  fixed  upon  a  site,  the  next  thing  was 
to  obtain  materials  for  building.  Thus  far  we  had 
seen  none  whatever,  everything  being  covered  \vith 
snow.  We  now  found,  however,  that  there  were 
some  stones  scattered  about  ;  but  unfortunately 
they  were  all  frozen  tight,  so  that  we  could  not 
lift  them ;  and  here  the  ice-chisel,  which  we  had 
brought  from  the  Life-boat  depot,  and  for  which 
we  had  not  hitherto  found  use,  was  of  great  service. 
Indeed,  without  it  we  should  not  have  been  able  to 
effect  anything. 

An  ice-chisel  is  a  bar  of  iron  an  inch  in  diame 
ter  and  four  feet  long,  which  is  bent  at  one  end  in 
the  form  of  a  ring,  to  be  grasped  by  the  hand ; 
and  is  sharpened  and  tempered  at  the  other  end 
like  a  stone-quarrier's  drill.  With  this  instrument 
Mr.  Bon  sail  loosened  the  stones,  while  the  rest  of 
us  brought  them  together.  Some  were  carried  two 
hundred  yards,  and  all  of  them,  of  course  upon  our 
shoulders. 

Having  accumulated  a  considerable  pile,  the  ma 
sons  began  to  construct  walls;  but  here  another 
difficulty  arose.  We  had  nothing  with  which  to  fill 
up  the  cracks.  This  set  us  again  to  searching,  and 
at  length  a  bed  of  sand  was  discovered  near  the 
beach.  The  ice-chisel  was  now  called  in  requisi 
tion  as  a  pick ;  and  load  after  load  of  the  sand 
was  shovelled  with  one  of  our  tin  dinner-plates 


GATHERING  STONES.  113 

into  a  discarded  bread-bag,  and  thus  carried  up  to. 
the  builders. 

During  two  days  we  thus  worked,  and  had  then 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  area  of  the  hut  en 
closed.  The  walls  were  fourteen  feet  apart,  four  feet 
high,  and  three  feet  thick.  We  had  labored  hard 
and  almost  continuously  during  our  working-hours, 
reserving  only  a  short  time  for  our  scanty  meals. 

On  the  following  day  we  built  upon  the  rock, 
on  the  west  side,  a  gable,  of  which  the  apex  was 
six  feet  from  the  ground,  and  which  sloped  down 
on  each  side  to  the  walls.  Through  this  western 
side  opened  the  lateral  cleft,  which  was  spanned 
by  the  gable,  which  rested  at  this  place  on  the  rud 
der  of  the  Hope ;  leaving  an  orifice  three  feet  high 
and  two  feet  wide.  Next  day  Petersen  made  for 
this  opening  a  door,  which  was  hung  at  an  angle, 
so  as  to  close  by  its  own  weight,  when  it  had  been 
pushed  open  from  the  outside.  Not  having  a  piece 
of  board  wide  enough  for  the  purpose,  he  con 
structed  a  frame-work  of  narrow  strips,  and  cov 
ered  it  with  canvas.  The  cracks  around  the  door 
posts  were  filled  with  moss.  Above  the  doorway 
was  left  another  opening  for  a  window.  Across 
this  was  stretched  a  strip  of  an  old  muslin  shirt, 
greased  with  blubber  for  the  better  transmission  of 
light. 

Now  came  the  more  difficult  operation  of  roof 
ing.  One  of  the  boat's  masts  served  for  a  ridge 
pole  ;  and  on  this  and  the  walls  were  laid  the  oars, 
for  rafters.  Over  these  were  spread  the  boats'  sails, 
which  were  stretched  taut,  and  secured  by  heavy 
stones.  Then  we  collected  moss  to  thatch  the  can- 


144          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

vas.  This  was  even  a  more  laborious  task  than 
carrying  the  stones ;  for  we  were  compelled  to  scour 
the  country  in  all  directions,  and  as  the  snow  was 
almost  everywhere  a  foot  deep,  to  dig  for  each  piece 
of  moss  that  we  obtained.  Indeed,  four  times  out 
of  five,  we  were  unsuccessful  in  finding  a  single 
lump,  after  clearing  away  cart-loads  of  snow.  This 
labor  would  not  have  been  so  severe,  but  that  wTe 
had  no  shovel,  and  were  obliged  to  use  our  tin 
dinner-plates.  Our  carpenter  endeavored  to  supply 
this  defect  by  making  a  shovel  out  of  the  staves 
of  our  now  useless  molasses  keg,  tacking  them  to 
gether,  and  fastening  to  them  a  tent-pole  for  a  han 
dle;  but  as  this  contrivance  soon  came  to  pieces, 
it  failed  to  answer  our  purpose. 

The  moss  was  frozen  hard,  and  was  found  rarely 
in  larger  quantities  than  a  patch  two  or  three  feet 
in  diameter,  but  more  frequently  in  lumps  the  size 
of  one's  hand.  It  was  dug  up  with  the  ice-chisel, 
and  carried  on  our  backs  in  our  clothes-bags,  the 
contents  of  which  we  had  previously  emptied  into 
the  tent. 

We  made  excellent  progress  with  our  work ;  and 
on  the  fifth  day,  although  feeling  uncertain  as  to 
what  fortune  awaited  us,  yet  we  had  at  least  the 
comfortable  reflection  that,  on  the  next  day,  we 
should  have  a  house  to  shelter  us,  and  should  thus 
be  protected  against  some  of  the  terrors  of  our 
position.  On  that  day,  however,  just  before  night 
fall,  when  we  were  distant  three  miles  from  the 
camp,  the  clouds,  which  had  been  gathering  since 
morning,  suddenly  began  to  discharge  their  frozen 
vapor,  and  the  whole  heavens  soon  became  thick 


STORM-STAYED.  145 

with  falling  snow.  Everything  that  was  not  very 
near  to  us,  was  hidden  from  our  view ;  and,  fearful 
that  we  should  lose  our  way,  we  crowded  into 
our  bags  what  moss  we  had  dug,  and  trudged  back 
toward  the  tent. 

Our  outward  footmarks  were  almost  obliterated, 
even  before  we  set  out  to  return ;  and,  misled 
by  a  casual  track,  we  held  too  far  to  the  north, 
and  came  upon  the  sea  almost  two  miles  above 
the  camp.  By  this  time  a  light  southerly  wind 
was  blowing,  and,  being  compelled  to  face  it,  we 
reached  the  tent  much  chilled  and  exhausted. 
We  held  on  to  our -moss-bags,  however;  and,  after 
spreading  their  contents  upon  the  hut,  we  found 
that,  with  what  had  been  previously  collected,  there 
was  sufficient  to  cover  the  south  side  with  a  layer 
a  foot  thick. 

The  wind  continued  to  increase  with  the  dark 
ness,  and,  by  the  time  supper  was  over,  blew  strong 
from  the  south-southeast.  The  drift  was  whirling 
in  eddies  through  the  air,  and  a  gloomy  night  was 
coming  on,  as  we  drew  under  our  canvas  shelter. 

Thus  closed  Monday,  the  2d  of  October,  the  ninth 
day  of  our  stay  at  this  desolate  place,  and,  as  pre 
viously  stated,  the  fifth  of  our  hut-building.  Of  our 
labors  I  have  only  recorded  a  part,  for  the  building 
was  performed  chiefly  by  one  half  of  the  company, 
--the  other  half  being  necessarily  occupied  in  roam 
ing  about  in  search  of  game.  Petersen  was  our 
.general  mechanic  and  tinker,  and  %hen  anything 
was  required  of  him  in  either  capacity,  he  stayed  at 
home,  and  Bonsall  or  myself  took  the  gun  or  the  ri 
fle.  He  was  not  often  absolutely  needed,  and  was 

13 


146  AN  AECTIC  BOAT  JOURNET 

therefore  usually  out  hunting  during  the  day;  yet 
he  always  came  home  empty-handed,  except  on 
one  occasion,  when  he  brought  in  five  ptarmigans, 
all  of  which  he  shot  within  a  hundred  yards  of 
the  camp  on  his  return.  There  were  several  cracks 
in  the  ice  not  far  from  the  shore,  which  were  kept 
open  by  the  changing  tide ;  and  in  these  cracks 
were  frequently  seen  walrus  and  seal,  but  they 
were  too  timid  to  be  approached.  Petersen  fired 
at  them  several  times,  but  they  were  always  beyond 
his  range.  Along  the  shore,  to  the  south  of  our  po 
sition,  he  built  several  fox-traps,  which  he  visited 
dally ;  but  hitherto  no  foxes  had  been  caught. 

All  this  was  discouraging.  It  seemed  ominous 
of  starvation  at  a  very  early  day.  Our  provisions 
were  running  very  low ;  we  had  only  a  few  pounds 
of  pork  left,  and  of  bread  only  a  small  quantity 
beside  that  in  the  barrel  brought  from  the  Life 
boat  depot,  of  which  a  small  portion  had  been 
consumed.  There  remained  a  little  of  the  meat- 
biscuit  and  a  few  pounds  of  rice  and  flour.  Alto 
gether  we  had  not  enough  to  furnish  us  with  full 
rations  during  a  single  week,  and  we  were  trying 
to  make  our  stock  suffice  for  a  longer  period.  Al 
ready  we  were  upon  the  shortest  daily  allowance 
which  our  labors  permitted.  Men  working  during 
twelve  or  fourteen  hours  of  the  twenty-four,  in  a 
temperature  not  much  above  zero,  require  a  large 
amount  of  food  to  sustain  them.  We  were  be 
coming  thin  and  weak,  and  were  constantly  hun 
gry- 

To  appease  the  gnawing  pains  of  hunger  by  at 
least  filling  up  the  stomach,  we  resorted  to  an  ex- 


MOSS  FOOD.  147 

pedient  which  I  remembered  of  Sir  John  Franklin's, 
in  his  memorable  expedition  to  the  Copper-mine,  in 
1819.  This  was,  to  eat  the  rock-lichen,  (tripe  de 
roche,)  which  our  party  called  "  stone  moss."  When 
at  its  maximum  growth,  it  is  about  an  inch  in  diam 
eter,  and  of  the  thickness  of  a  wafer.  It  is  black 
externally,  but  when  broken  the  interior  appears 
white.  When  boiled  it  makes  a  glutinous  fluid, 
which  is  slightly  nutritious.  Although  in  some 
places  it  grows  very  abundantly,  yet  in  our  locality 
it,  like  the  game,  was  scarce.  Most  of  the  rocks 
had  none  upon  them ;  and  there  were  very  few 
from  which  we  could  collect  as  much  as  a  quart. 
The  difficulty  of  gathering  it  was  much  augmented 
by  its  crispness,  and  the  firmness  of  its  attachment. 

For  this  plant,  poor  though  it  was,  we  were  com 
pelled  to  dig.  The  rocks  in  every  case  were  to  be 
cleared  from  snow,  and  often  our  pains  went  un 
rewarded.  The  first  time  this  food  was  tried  it 
seemed  to  answer  well ;  it  at  least  filled  the  stom 
ach,  and  thus  kept  off  the  horrid  sensation  of  hunger 
until  wre  got  to  sleep;  but  it  was  found  to  produce 
afterward  a  painful  diarrhoea.  Beside  this  unpleas 
ant  effect,  fragments  of  gravel,  which  were  mixed 
with  the  moss,  tried  our  teeth.  We  picked  the, 
plants  from  the  rock  with  our  knives,  or  a  piece  of 
hoop-iron ;  and  we  could  not  avoid  breaking  off 
some  particles  of  the  stone. 

I  must  not  neglect  to  mention  a  most  important 
discovery   made   about    this   time.      I   allude   to    a 
little  fresh-water    (melted    snow)    lake,   which    was 
found  by  one  of  the  party  in  a  hollow,  three  quar 
ters  of  a  mile  east  from  the  camp.     This  lake  wag 


148  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

about  fifty  by  thirty  yards  in  diameter,  and  about 
five  feet  deep  in  the  centre.  When  it  was  first 
discovered,  the  ice  upon  it  was  only  a  foot  and  a 
half  thick.  By  breaking  through  this  crust  with  the 
ice-chisel,  we  obtained  an  excellent  supply  of  pure 
water.  This  enabled  us  greatly  to  economize  our 
fuel. 

Neither  should  I  neglect  to  mention  a  circum 
stance  which,  perhaps,  will  not  strike  the  reader 
as  of  great  importance,  but  which  occasioned  us 
for  several  days  not  a  little  suffering,  since  it  de 
prived  us  of  almost  our  only  comfort.  This  was 
the  failure  of  the  stock  of  roasted  coffee  which  we 
had  brought  with  us  from  the  ship.  There  still 
remained  to  us  a  good  supply  of  the  berries,  but  we 
had  no  means  of  roasting  them.  We  were,  there 
fore,  compelled  to  use  tea ;  and  having  of  this  only 
a  small  quantity,  we  were  reduced  to  a  meagre 
allowance  at  each  rneal.  The  luxury  of  hot,  strong 
coffee,  to  a  cold,  hungry,  tired,  and  dispirited  man, 
will,  I  am  sure,  be  appreciated.  Tea  was  less  grate 
ful  to  us.  I  do  not  know  how  we  could  have 
dispensed  with  a  hot  drink  in  the  morning  and 
evening,  when  everything  else  was  so  chill  and 
cheerless. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

HUT   BUILDING    CONTINUED. 

ruesday,  October  3d.  The  storm  which  set  in 
last  evening,  continued  through  the  night  and  dur 
ing  the  next  day ;  the  snow  fell  thick  and  fast ;  the 
wind  blew  fearfully,  and  the  air  was  filled  with 
drift.  We  could  scarcely  stir  out  of  the  tent  or 
do  anything  else  except  cook  the  necessary  food. 
This  service  was  performed  by  Godfrey  and  my 
self,  it  being  our  turn  to-day  at  the  galley. 

We  crawled  out  in  the  morning  at  eight  o'clock, 
amid  cries  of  "  Shut  the  door !  Shut  the  door ! " 
from  our  half-slumbering  comrades,  as  the  snow 
came  whirling  in  upon  their  faces;  and  after  dig 
ging  the  cooking  apparatus  out  of  a  deep  snow 
bank,  which  was  piled  up  alongside  of  and  against 
the  tent,  we  faced  the  storm,  and  carried  the  differ 
ent  articles  over  to  the  hut,  with  the  view  of  there 
obtaining  shelter.  The  hut  was  found  to  be  almost 
covered ;  on  the  south  side  the  drift  was  level  with 
the  comb  of  the  roof.  All  access  to  the  doorway 
was  obstructed,  and  we  could  gain  entrance  only 
by  tearing  up  the  canvas  on  the  northwest  corner. 
Through  the  orifice,  thus  made,  the  blubber-keg, 
lamp,  and  kettle  were  lowered. 

13* 


150  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

To  our  sorrow  the  hut  was  half  filled  with  snow, 
feathery  streams  of  which  came  pouring  in  through 
the  cracks  around  the  roof.  These  fine  particles 
filled  the  air,  and  made  everything  so  damp  that  it 
was  with  much  difficulty  that  the  fire  was  kindled. 
Leaving  Godfrey  engaged  in  this  delicate  operation, 
I  took  the  kettle,  determined  to  get  if  possible  some 
water  from  the  lake.  The  fuel  which  must  other 
wise  be  used  for  melting  snow,  might  thus  be  saved 
for  roasting  coffee,  the  want  of  which  was  greatly 
felt  by  all  of  us. 

Clambering  up  through  the  hole  in  the  roof,  I 
turned  to  the  right  around  the  base  of  a  pile  of 
rocks,  and  then  beat  up  diagonally  against  the 
gale.  The  drift  was  almost  blinding,  and  my  face 
grew  so  cold  that  I  was  frequently  forced  to  turn 
my  back  to  the  wind  to  recover  breath  and  warmth. 
It  was  with  great  difficulty  that  I  picked  a  pas 
sage  among  the  boulders  and  drifts;  but,  growing 
warmer  as  the  exercise  heated  my  blood,  I  at  length 
came  directly  upon  the  lake,  This  was  an  unex 
pected  piece  of  good  fortune ;  for,  as  I  had  guessed 
my  way,  I  could  not  have  even  hoped  to  come  ex 
actly  to  the  right  spot. 

Pieces  of  ice  which  lay  scattered  around  the 
well,  had  formed  a  centre  for  the  accumulation  of 
a  large  drift ;  and  I  was  therefore  compelled  to  dig 
another  hole.  Selecting  a  spot  which  the  wind 
had  swept  clear,  I  set  diligently  to  work  at  cutting 
the  crystal  sheet  with  the  dull  chisel.  This,  luckily, 
had  been  placed  upright  by  the  last  visitor,  or  I 
should  probably  not  have  found  it.  The  ice  was 
perfectly  transparent,  and  I  could  see  every  stone 


GETTING  WATER.  151 

and  pebble  on  the  bottom,  shining  very  brightly, 
and  seeming  to  nestle  there  in  warmth  and  quiet, — 
strikingly  in  contrast  with  the  confusion  and  cold 
which  reigned  above.  The  operation  of  cutting 
this  hole  was  a  most  tedious  one,  and  it  must 
have  occupied  me  at  least  three  quarters  of  an 
hour ;  but  at  length  the  iron  bar  plunged  through ; 
and  upon  withdrawing  it  a  crystal  fountain  gur 
gled  out  into  the  frost.  My  kettle  was  soon  filled, 
and  I  set  out  to  return. 

My  tracks  were  covered  over,  and  again  I  was 
obliged  to  steer  by  the  wind.  I  was  getting  on 
very  well,  having  now  the  storm  partially  on  my 
back ;  but  my  good  fortune  forsook  me  when  I 
had  reached  about  half-way.  In  the  act  of  climb 
ing  over  a  rock,  in  order  to  shorten  the  distance, 
I  missed  my  footing,  and  fell  upon  my  face.  The 
kettle  slipped  from  my  grasp,  and,  spilling  its  pre 
cious  contents,  went  flying  across  the  plain.  With 
a  philosophical  resignation  which  I  had  the  mod 
esty  afterwards  to  think  quite  commendable,  in  the 
circumstances,  I  followed  the  retreating  pot,  and, 
overtaking  it  at  length  where  it  had  brought  up 
against  an  elevation,  I  returned  to  the  lake  and  re 
filled.  This  time  I  was  more  careful,  and  I  reached 
the  camp  without  further  accident,  except  that  I 
came  upon  the  sea  some  distance  above  the  hut; 
thus  considerably  increasing  the  length  of  my  walk  ; 
and  that,  too,  in  the  very  teeth  of  the  storm. 

1  had  been  absent  two  hours.  Godfrey  had 
lighted  thn  lamp;  and,  after  roasting  in  the  sauce 
pan  a  sufficient  quantity  of  coffee  to  last  two  days, 
had  then  extinguished  the  flame.  I  found  him 


152  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

seated  on  the  keg  shivering  with  cold,  and  uneasy 
about  me.  He  was  black  all  over  with  soot,  and 
had  been  nearly  stifled  with  smoke. 

The  lamp  being  relighted,  the  coffee  was  cooked 
in  a  little  less  than  an  hour ;  and  having  warmed  up 
a  few  pieces  of  pork,  mixed  with  almost  the  last 
remnant  of  our  water-soaked  bread,  we  left  the 
suffocating  atmosphere  of  our  den,  and  carried  the 
breakfast  up  to  our  hungry  and  impatient  com 
rades.  After  shaking  from  our  clothes  the  snow 
which  had  not  been  thoroughly -ground  into  the 
fibres  of  the  cloth,  we  assisted  in  dispatching  the 
meagre  meal ;  and  were  then  glad  to  wrap  ourselves 
in  our  blankets  and  buflalo-robes,  to  sleep  and 
shiver  through  the  remainder  of  the  day  and  night. 
It  was  voted  that  we  should  do  without  supper. 
Those  who  were  least  unfavorably  affected  by  the 
stone-moss,  satisfied  with  some  uncooked  fragments 
of  rt  the  most  pressing  gna wings  of  hunger. 

Meanwhile  the  wind  hauled  to  the  southwest, 
and  continued  to  blow,  and  the  snow  to  fall,  with 
even  greater  vehemence.  The  cooks,  Mr.  Son n tag 
and  John,  turned  out  at  daybreak ;  and  they  had 
even  a  more  difficult  task  than  had  Godfrey  and 
myself  the  day  before.  The  temperature  was  sev 
eral  degrees  lower,  and  the  hut  more  incumbered 
with  drift.  The  lamp  and  other  fixtures  were 
completely  covered.  Persevering  however  through 
every  obstacle,  our  cooks,  in  about  three  hours, 
gave  us  a  refreshing  breakfast. 

I  do  not  wish  to  make  any  parade  of  our  priva 
tions ;  but  I  should  fail  to  convey  any  true  idea  of 
the  day  did  I  not  say  that  it  was  passed  in  un- 


THE  CANVAS  TENT.  153 

mitigated  misery.  Our  tent  was  made  of  thin 
hemp  canvas:  it  was  ten  feet  in  length  by  eight 
in  breadth ;  and  into  this  were  crowded  eight  per 
sons.  It  was  pitched  upon  a  rock,  and  it  faced 
the  storm.  We  could  not  shift  it  without  the  cer 
tainty  of  having  it  more  filled. with  snow  than  by 
leaving  it  standing  as  it  was,  with  the  door  (which 
could  not  be  closed  tightly)  exposed  to  the  full 
force  of  the  driving  wind  and  the  pelting  drift. 

Upon  the  bottom  of  the  tent  was  spread  one  of 
our  buffalo  robes,  and  over  this  the  other;  we  lay 
between  them,  each  person  having  one  foot  and 
three  inches  of  space.  In  order  to  economize  room, 
(and  without  this  economy  we  could  not  have  all 
crowded  together,)  wre  lay.  as  the  sailors  termed  it, 
"heads  and  points."  Each  man  was  wrapped  up 
in  his  own  private  blankets,  and  under  his  head 
were  placed  his  boots,  coat,  and  any  other  little 
articles  which  he  could  collect  together  for  a  pil 
low.  In  some  cases  a  stone  was  added  to  assist 
the  elevation.  The  station  of  the  cooks  was  next 
the  door. 

The  moisture  of  our  breath  was  condensed  upon 
the  cold  canvas,  and  hung  above  us  in  a  layer  an 
inch  thick  of  delicate  frost  crystals,  which  the  least 
touch  precipitated  down  our  necks  and  among  the 
bedding.  By  this  means  everything  had  become 
damp,  The  air  in  the  crowded  state  of  the  tent 
was  most  unpleasant ;  in  fact  we  had  a  cold  steam 
bath. 

All  sorts  of  expedients  were  tried  for  killing  time. 
First,  after  breakfast,  we  opened  the  bedding  to 
give  it  an  airing,  and  turned  out  to  stretch  our 


154          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

limbs ;  but  we  could  not  long  endure  the  cold  pierc 
ing  wind,  and  one  by  one  the  party  retreated  to  our 
shelter.  The  most  hardy  were  not  out  more  than 
two  hours;  and  these,  fearful  of  losing  their  way, 
did  not  go  far  from  the  camp.  Later  in  the  day 
we  spread  out  our  driest  blankets ;  and,  seated 
upon  them,  we  tried  to  beguile  ourselves  with  some 
rubbers  of  whist,  interspersed  with  other  games. 
Every  one,  except  Mr.  Sonntag,  smoked  his  pipe; 
and  those  who  kept  journals  embraced  the  oppor 
tunity  to  make  spasmodic  entries ;  —  for  the  fingers 
smd  the  pencil  could  not  long  keep  company.  Peter- 
sen  had  a  sly  joke  for  us  now  and  then  ;  and  Bonsall 
entertained  us  from  time  to  time  with  some  original 
drollery. 

Tliursday,  October  5th.  Our  condition  is  fast 
approaching  the  horrible.  The  storm  has  con 
tinued,  without  abating  for  a  single  moment,  since 
Monday  evening,  and  it  still  holds  on  with  a  steadi 
ness  that  is  most  disheartening.  Three  days  gone; 
three  days  away  from  the  hut  and  from  our  prep 
aration  for  the  winter ;  and,  worse  than  all,  the 
food  of  three  days  consumed;  —  and  nothing  done! 
Our  bedding,  bad  yesterday,  is  infinitely  worse 
to-day ;  and,  inactive  as  we  are,  we  have  a  hard 
task  to  keep  cheerful,  with  starvation  staring  us 
in  the  face.  Were  we  doing  something,  this  tor 
menting  ghost  could  be  frightened  off.  Bonsall 
has  a  copy  of  Ivanhoe,  with  which  I  spend  the 
morning. 

In  the  afternoon  there  is  a  lull  in  the  storm.  I 
have  been  out  with  Petersen  to  hunt;  but  it  blew 
again  harder  than  ever,  and  we  were  driven  back 


GATHERING  MOSS.  155 

We  came  upon  a  hare,  but  before  my  companion 
could  elevate  his  stiffened  arms"  the  ammal  was 
out  of  sight,  hidden  by  the  sheet  of  blinding  drift 
which  whirled  over  the  plain. 

Friday,  October  6th.  The  gale  broke  about 
midnight,  and  the  morning  dawned  upon  us  bright 
as  a  winter's  day  could  be.  Nature  looked  as  un 
concerned  as  if  her  face  had  never  been  ruffled. 
The  sun  carne  dragging  himself  slowly  up  from 
behind  the  silver-peaked  mountains,  and  the  tem 
perature  rose  to  20°. 

How  much  are  our  emotions  under  I  he  influence 
of  our  bodily '  comforts !  -Last  evening  our  faces 
were  gloomy,  and  our  jests  were  tinctured  with 
recklessness.  This  morning  all  is  gayety  and 
cheerfulness.  We  are  stirring  with  the  earliest 
daylight.  The  contents  of  the  tent  are  spread 
down  by  the  beach,  upon  some  large  rocks  from 
which  the  snow  has  all  been  blown  ;  and  the  frost 
and  ice  are  scraped  from  the  canvas. 

Meantime  others  of  the  party  tear  off  a  portion 
of  the  north  side  of  the  roof  of  the  hut,  and  then 
clear  out  the  snow.  This  is  a  tedious  and  painful 
operation  ;  for  the  shovelling,  as  befofe,  must  all 
be  done  with  tin  plates.  At  length  the  space  is 
clear;  the  canvas  is  replaced  and  tightly  bound 
down,  and  we  collect  moss  to  finish  the  thatching. 
More  tedious  still  is  this  work  than  the  snow  shovel 
ling;  for  the  snow  is  much  deeper  than  it  was  when 
we  were  driven  home  three  days  ago.  The  drifts 
are  deep,  and  the  walking  laborious.  We  cross  over 
the  south  bay,  and  find  on  the  opposite  shore,  four 
miles  distant  from  the  hut,  a  good  bed  of  turf. 


156  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

The  bags  are  filled,  and  the  men  go  and  come, 
one  by  one,  across  the  ice. 

While  we  were  busy  digging  moss,  a  northerly 
wind  sprang  up  very  suddenly,  and  before  any  of 
us  could  reach  the  camp,  the  bedding  was  covered 
with  fine  particles  of  drifted  snow.  The  different 
articles  were  hastily  crowded  into  the  tent  in 
a  worse  condition  than  ever. —  "Praise  the  fine 
ness  of  the  day  when  it  is  ended,  and  a  wo: nan 
when  you  have  known  her,"  says  the  Bible  of  the 
Vikings. 

Notwithstanding  the  wind,  we  continued  at  our 
work,  and  brought  in  a  considerable  quantity  of 
moss;  and,  although  less  than  half  the  quantity 
that  we  want,  we  determined,  in  view  of  the  com 
ing  storm,  to  make  it- suffice;  and  with  the  close  of 
the  clay  we  finished  our  work.  Petersen,  as-  usual, 
has  been  out  hunting,  and  brought  home  four 
ptarmigans. 

Saturday,  October  7th.  Still  blowing  heavily  from 
the  north.  We  cannot  expose  ourselves  long  at 
a  time;  and  after  taking  turns  in  clearing  out  the 
doorway  of  the  hut,  we  carry  stones  to  complete 
the  internal  arrangements.  Petersen  is  occupied 
during  the  day  in  making  a  sort  of  open  stove,  or 
fireplace,  of  the  tin  sheathing  which  we  have  torn 
from  the  Hope.  A  pipe  of  the  same  material  leads 
up  through  the  roof.  This  ingeniously-contrived 
ii replace  is  large  enough  to  hold  two  lamps,  our 
saucepan,  and  kettle. 

Sunday,  October  Sth.  A  gloomy  Sabbath  day  in 
a  gloomy  place.  We  are  kept  within  the  tent  by 
the  bad  weather.  The  wind  is  blowing  more  fiercely 


HOUSED.  157 

than  ever  from  the  northeast,  and  the  minimum 
temperature  during  the  day  has  been  six  degrees 
below  zero.  If  Wednesday  approached  the  horri 
ble,  the  climax  is  reached  to-day. 

Stephenson,  who  had  been  complaining  a  little 
during  several  days,  was  taken  sick  in  the  morning. 
His  old  heart  troubles,  which  were  brought  on  by 
scurvy,  and  which  endangered  his  life  on  many  occa 
sions  on  shipboard,  have  returned,  and  he  hao  had, 
during  the  day,  several  fearful  fits  of  dyspnoea.  Poor 
fellow !  I  can  do  very  little  either  to  relieve  or  com 
fort  him !  Damp  clothing  and  an  atmosphere  at 
zero  are  wretched  cheer  for  a  sick, —  very  sick  man  ; 
and  there  are  none  but  hard  hands  to  soothe  him. 
The  cook  makes  for  him  a  pot  of  tea,  and  I  give 
him  a  few  drops  of  tincture  of-colehicum. 

Monday,  October  9t/i.  Clear  and  calm.  We  have 
a  fine  day  for  work ;  and  although  the  temperature 
ranges  from  .four  to  ten  degrees  below  zero,  yet  we 
get  our  bedding  a  little  dried.  Even  at  the  lowest 
temperatures  a  slow  evaporation  takes  place,  if  the 
air  is  not  already  fully  charged  with  moisture.  We 
have  labored  diligently,  and  have  completed  the  hut 
before  night.  The  internal  arrangements  are  quite 
simple ;  but  their  construction  required  much  labor. 
On  the  south  side,  a  space  six  feet  wide  has  been 
elevated  about  eight  inches.  This  is  done  with 
stones  and  sand,  collected  in  the  manner  described 
in  the  last  chapter.  The  elevation,  which,  after 
the  Esquimaux,  we  call  a  "  breck,"  is  made  as 
smooth  as  possible;  and  over  it  are  spread  our 
skins  and  blankets.  Here  five  of  the  party  are  to 
sleep.  The  northwest  corner  of  the  hut  is  simi- 

14 


158          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

larly  elevated ;  and  this  space,  five  feet  by  six,  is  to 
hold  the  remaining  three. 

We  move  in  late  in  the  evening,  and  prepare 
to  spend  the  first  night  in  onr  new  abode.  Peter- 
sen,  Sonntag,  Bonsall,  Stephenson,  and  myself  oc 
cupy  the  south  ;  and  Godfrey,  Whipple,  and  John 
the  north  side. 

Petersen  comes  in  at  sundown  with  eight  ptar 
migans;  and  we  celebrate  our  entry  into  our  new 
quarters  with  a  good  stew  of  choice  game  and  an 
abundant  pot  of  coflee,  cooked  in  our  rickety  fire 
place  with  the  staves  of  our  blubber-keg,  which 
was  yesterday  emptied  of  its  contents.  We  have 
saved  a  small  quantity  of  oil,  and  Godfrey  rigs  up 
an  extempore  Esquimau  lamp.  The  hut  is  cold, 
but  so  much  more  comfortable  than  our  tent  that 
we  have  good  reason  to  rejoice  over  the  change. 
The  light  of  the  lamp  dimly  reveals  those  repre 
sentatives  of  civilized  comfort  —  beds,  stove,  walls, 
and  rafters. 

Long  after  the  embers  on  the  hearth  had  black 
ened,  we  smoked  and  talked  and  speculated  by  the 
dull  light  of  the  moss  taper.  Another  gale  wa^ 
howling  across  the  plain,  but  we  bade  it  defiance. 
We  were  absolutely  buried  in  a  great  snow-bank. 
The  drift  swept  wildly  above  our  heads,  ratlling 
over  the  moss  roof,  and  ringing  against  our  frail 
chimney. 

Although  accustomed  to  hardship,  yet  we  could 
not  feel  cheerful,  nor  wholly  forget  that  this  cold 
fireless;  damp,  vault-like  den,  promised  to  be  for 
a  little,  very  little  while,  our  dwelling-place,  and 
then  our  grave.  Jo.hn  summed  up  our  stores 


INVENTORY.  159 

"  There's  three  quarters  of  a  small  barrel  of  bread, 
a  capful  of  meat-biscuit,  half  as  much  rice  and 
flour,  a  double  handful  of  lard,  —  and  that's  all." 
We  had  less  than  a  pint  of  oil,  and  not  a  stick 
of  wood  except  the  staves  of  the  bread-barrel  and 
blubber-keg.  A  poor  outfit  for  a  winter  which  her 
alded  its  coming  with  such  days  as  we  had  lately 
passed  through.  Yet  courage  did  not  forsake  us, 
nor  was  there  one  word  of  lamentation.  Placing 
trust  where  the  heart  bade  us,  we  did  not  lose 
hope;  and  I  feel  sure  that  all  of  us  retired  to  rest 
thinking  of  the  future,  —  its  duties  and  its  trials,— 
prayerfully. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

THE   HUT   DISCOVERED    BY   ESQUIMAUX. 

THUS,  after  twelve  days  of  waiting  and  working, 
we  were  at  length  housed ;  but  what  should  we 
do  next?  Hitherto  all  our  efforts  in  hunting  had 
resulted  in  failure.  Only  seventeen  little  birds  re 
warded  our  constant  vigilance.  Two  or  three  foxes, 
and  one  hare,  had  been  seen,  but  not  a  single 
bear :  our  traps  had  not  been  entered.  Forty  miles 
up  the  coast  was  the  Esquimau  Colony  of  Net- 
lik.  By  going  thither  we  might  possibly  get  sup 
plies,  and  by  presents  induce  the  people  to  bring 
something  to  us ;  but  to  undertake,  in  this  stormy 
weather,  to  walk  that  distance,  without  protection 
or  shelter  of  any  kind,  without  the  certainty  even 
of  finding  the  sea  closed,  and  withal,  in  our  re 
duced  condition,  would  be  a  desperate  adventure. 
Indeed,  it  could  not  be  done..  There  did  not  seem 
to  be  any  hope  for  us  but  in  the  stone  moss;  and 
this,  poor  though  it  was,  some  of  us  had  not  been 
able  to  eat. 

These  matters  formed  the  subject  of  our  conver 
sation  during  the  first  day  of  our  stay  in  the  hut. 
The  storm  having  continued  unabated,  we  could 
not  stir  out  of  doors.  The  snow  was  banked  up 
against  the  window,  and  there  came  in  through  the 


STRANGE  NOISE.  161 

muslin  pane  only  the  faintest  glimmer  of  light, 
which  barely  enabled  us  to  see  each  other's  faces. 
We  could  not  afford  the  oil  necessary  to  keep  the 
lamp  burning. 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  as  John  was  breaking  up 
the  staves  of  our  blubber-keg,  preparatory  to  start 
ing  the  fire*  to  cook  us  some  coffee  and  a  cake  of 
meat-biscuit,  an  unusual  noise  was  heard,  coming 
from  the  direction  of  the  beach.  The  doorway  was 
filled  with  snow,  and  without  much  difficulty  we 
could  not  get  out;  so  we  listened  at  the  window 
for  some  minutes,  expecting  its  repetition ;  but-cloth 
ing  further  being  heard,  we  concluded  that  it  must 
have  been  the  wind ;  and  John  went  on  with  his 
work.  He  soon  had  a  cheerful-looking  fire  crack 
ling  on  the  hearth,  which  threw  out  a  little  warmth 
into  the  damp  apartment,  and  lighted  it  up  with  a 
strange  unearthly  glare.  Wreaths  of  smoke,  how 
ever,  poured  out  through  the  cracks  in-  the  rickety 
stove,  destroying  whatever  of  comfort  we  might 
else  have  extracted  from  it.  To  escape  this  smoke 
we  were  compelled  to  draw  our  heads  beneath  our 
blankets.  Our  chimney  needed  some  tinkering  to 
make  it  draw. 

To  turn  out  in  the  storm  and  bring  water  from 
the  lake,  could  not  be  attempted  without  too  great 
danger;  and  we  were  therefore  obliged  to  melt  snow, 
of  which  there  was  abundance  to  be  had  by  merely 
opening  the  door.  The  cook,  intent  upon  preparing 
the  supper,  and  we,  in  avoiding  the  smoke,  soon 
forgot  the  sound  which  had  startled  us.  Almost 
half  an  hour  had  elapsed,  and  probably  the  sub 
ject  had  passed  from  the  mind  of  every  one,  when 
u* 


1C2  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

the  sound  was  again  heard ;  and  this  time  in  a 
manner  which  left  no  doubt  that  it  proceeded  from 
something  living.  One  of  us  thought  that  it  was 
the  growling  of  a  bear,  and  another  that  it  was  the 
barking  of  a  fox ;  but  after  a  few  minutes  had 
passed,  without  its  being  repeated,  Whipple,  A  ho 
was  half  asleep  in  the  corner,  protested  that  it  was 
"just  nothing  at  all." 

Nothing  was  heard  for  full  five  minutes  more  but 
ihe  moaning  of  the  wind  and  the  rattling  of  the 
drifting  snow ;  but  our  curiosity  having  been  aroused, 
Ihe  door  was  opened,  and  the  snow  cleared  away 
by  dragging  it  down  into  the  hut,  until  at  length  a 
jinall  opening  was  made,  through  which  we  could 
«*ee  daylight.  With  the  -daylight  came  in  a  cold 
vinwt'lcome  blast  and  a  sheet-  of  feathery  snow ; 
and  directly,  too,  an  unmistakable  human  cry. 

There  were  evidently  two  men  calling  to  each 
other,  and  conversing  loudly.  The  wind,  however, 
made  so  nmch  noise  that  we  could  not  distinguish 
what  they  said.  Conjecturing  that  they  were  Es 
quimaux,  Petersen  called  loudly  to  them,  "  Huk ! 
huk!  huk!"  After  several  repetitions,  the  hailing 
was  heard  and  answered,  and  we  soon  distin 
guished  footsteps  approaching  ;  but  it  was  clear 
that  the  strangers  were  bewildered.  This  we  could 
not  at  the  time  understand;  but  the  cause  was  sub 
sequently  explained.  The  drift  had  left  nothing  to 
mark  the  position  of  our  hut,  except  a  slight  de 
pression  in  front,  in  the  cleft  by  which  we  i  p- 
prpached  the  door,  over  which  the  gable  was  so 
wreathed  in  snow  as  to  appear  like  a  bank  of  drift. 

"  Ma-ne !  ma-ne  ! "  ("  here !  here ! ")  shouted  Peter- 


ABfllVAL  OF   STK ANGERS.  163 

sen  at  the  top  of  his  voice.  The  strangers  were 
still  puzzled  ;  but  soon  their  ears  caught  the  direc 
tion  of  the  sound  as  it  was  repeated,  and  with 
many  expressions  of  surprise  and  gratification  they 
hastily  approached.  Upon  an  invitation  to  enter, 
they  threw  themselves  into  the  opening  and  crawled 
down,  feet  foremost,  dragging  along  with  them  great 
•|iiantities  of  snow. 

They  were  a  most  un-human  looking  pair.  Every 
thing  on  and  about  them  told  of  the  battle  they  had 
had  with  the  elements.  From  head  to  foot  they 
were  invested  in  a  coat  of  ice  and  snow.  Shape 
less  lumps  of  whiteness  that  they  were,  they  re 
minded  me  of  the  snow-kings  I  used  to  make  when 
a  boy,  which,  but  for  their  lack  of  motion,  would 
have  been  to  all  appearance  quite  as  human  as  our 
visitors.  Their  long,  heavy,  fox-skin  coats,  reaching 
nearly  to  the  knees,  and  surmounted  by  a  hood, 
covering,  like  a  round  lump,  all  of  the  head  but 
the  face,  the  bear-skin  pantaloons  and  boots  and 
mittens,  were  saturated  with  snow.  Their  long, 
black  hair,  which  fell  from  beneath  their  hoods  over 
their  eyes  and  cheeks ;  their  eyelashes ;  the  few  hairs 
which  grew  upon  their  chins;  the  rim  of  fur  around 
their  faces,  were  sparkling  with  white  frost,  —  the 
frozen  moisture  of  their  breath.  Each  carried  in 
his  right  hand  a  whip,  and  in  his  left  a  lump  of 
frozen  meat  and  blubber.  The  meat  was  thrown 
upon  the  floor;  and,  without  waiting  for  an  invita 
tion,  they  stuck  their  whipstocks  under  the  rafters; 
and  pulling  off  their  mittens  and  outer  garments, 
hung  them  thereon.  Underneath  these  frosty  coats 
they  wore  a  shirt  of  bird-skins. 


164  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

They  proved  to  be  friends  from  Netlik,  from  whom 
we  had  parted  nearly  three  weeks  before.  The 
sturdy,  good-natured,  and  voluble  Kalutunah,  was 
one  of  them ;  and  after  we  had  cleared  the  ice  away 
from  his  face,  he  hung  around  me,  as  he  had  done 
when  I  visited  him  in  his  hut,  crying,  "Doc-tee! 
doc-tee ! "  and  laughing  all  the  while  as  if  it  were 
great  fun. 

They  had  a  long  story  to  tell.  They  had  left 
Netlik  yesterday  morning,  each  with  a  team  of 
dogs  and  a  sledge ;  had  travelled  over  the  ice,  which 
they  found  good  down  to  Cape  Parry.  There  the 
water  was  open,  and  they  were  obliged  to  climb 
over  the  land.  Coming  down  again  to  the  sea 
they  ran  far  out  in  search  of  bears.  While  thus  en 
gaged  they  were  overtaken  by  the  storm  ;  and  after 
having  sheltered  themselves  in  a  snow-hut  through 
the  night,  they  became  fearful  that  the  ice  might 
break  up;  and  they  made  for  the  land,  which  they 
reached  at  a  short  distance  above  our  camp.  Run 
ning  down  the  coast,  with  the  design  to  seek  shel 
ter  in  the  bay  below  us,  they  had  discovered  our 
boats  and  tent  ;  and  landing,  immediately  com 
menced  seeking  for  us,  when  doubtless  they  were 
first  heard.  Not  finding  us,  they  went  back  to  the 
sledges,  picketed  their  dogs  behind  a  protecting 
rock,  and  then  travelled  up  and  down  the  shore, 
confident  that  we  must  be  somewhere  near  at 
hand. 

Hardy  fellows  though  they  were,  thirty-six  hours' 
exposure  had  told  upon  them ;  and  they  were 
hungry  and  fatigued.  Seeing  John  engaged  at 
the  fire,  they  requested  him  to  cook  for  them  one 


MJBSTANTIAL  MEAL.  165 

of  their  pieces  of  bear-meat;  and  being  greatly  an 
noyed  by  the  smoke  of   our  wood-fire  they   asked 
him  to   put  it  out  and  use  their  blubber.     This  hex 
was  glad  enough  to  do. 

It  was  not  very  long  before  we  were  rejoicing 
in  a  good  and  substantial  meal  at  the  expense  of 
our  guests.  We  were  too  nearly  famished  to  see, 
in  this  procedure,  any  infringement  of  the  delicacies 
of  hospitality,  —  if  such  it  can  be  considered  in  the 
circumstances.  The  presence  of  a  good  joint  of 
bear's  meat  silenced  all  doubts  on  the  subject. 
While  the  cook  was  preparing  the  stew  our  friends 
were  chipping  off  kernels  from  the  piece  which  re 
mained.  .  These  they  passed  in  turn  to  us;  and  we 
found  the  raw  meat  thus  frozen  quite  palatable. 
The  feast  was  enjoyed  by  all,  and  it  was  not 
ended  until  the  bones  were  picked  clean.  The  sav 
age  hunters  ate  the  raw  flesh  as  fast  as  they  could 
split  it  off,  until  John  served  up  his  stew;  when 
they  abandoned  the  bloody  joint  for  a  few  moments, 
to  return  to  it  again  after  they  had  consumed  their 
cooked  allowance. 

Supper  being  over,  we  made  for  our  guests  the 
most  comfortable  bed  we  could,  by  levelling  the 
pile  of  snow  which  was  heaped  up  in  the  middle 
of  the  floor.  Spreading  over  this  a  piece  of  india- 
rubber  cloth,  and  another  of  canvas,  we  gave  them 
a  pair  of  thick  blankets,  and  tucked  them  in  for 
the  night. 

In  order  to  leave  the  hut  next  morning  it  was 
found  necessary  to  dig  a  tunnel  through  the  drift, 
which  now  lay  deeper  than  ever  against  the  door. 
The  snow  was  of  course  all  drawn  into  the  hut ;  and 


166          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

by  this  time  so  great  was  the  quantity  which  had 
accumulated,  that  our  quarters  became  very  cold  and 
uncomfortable.  The  tunnel  when  completed  was 
about  six  feet  long.  The  Esquimaux  were  stirring 
early,  and,  anxious  to  be  off,  were  out  as  soon  as 
an  opening  had  been  made ;  but  the  storm  was  now 
even  worse  than  yesterday.  It  was  snowing  vio 
lently,  and  still  blowing  strongly  from  the  south.  I 
went  out  with  them,  to  prevent  their  pilfering  any 
of  our  small  articles,  at  the  depot ;  and  I  assisted 
them  in  stowing  under  the  boats  their  few  articles 
of  hunting  equipment,  —  for  since  they  intended  to 
loose  their  dogs,  every  line,  or  piece  of  skin,  or  ar 
ticle  of  food,  must  be  out  of  reach.  The  dogs  \vere 
fastened  by  their  long  traces  ;  each  team  being  tied 
to  a  separate  stake.  They  were  howling  piteously. 
Having  been  exposed  to  all  the  fury  of  the  storm, 
with  no  ability  to  run  about,  they  had  grown  cold; 
and  as  their  masters  told  us,  having  had  nothing 
to>eat  during  thirty-six  hours,  they  must  have  been 
savagely  hungry.  One  of  them  had  already  eaten 
his  trace;  but  we  came  out,  fortunately,  at  the 
proper  moment  to  prevent  an  attack  upon  the 
sledges. 

Leaving  the  hunters  to  look  after  their  teams,  I 
returned  to  the  hut.  The  blinding  snow  which 
battered  my  face,  made  me  insensible  to  everything 
except  the  idea  of  getting  out  of  it;  and  thinking 
of  no  danger,  I  was  in  the  act  of  stooping  to  en 
ter  the  doorway,  when  a  sudden  noise  behind  me 
caused  me  to  look  around,  and  there,  close  at  my 
heels,  was  the  whole  pack  of  thirteen  hungry  dogs, 
snarling,  snapping,  and  showing  their  sharp  teeth 


FIERCENESS   OF  DOGS.  167 

like  a  drove  of  ravenous  wolves.  It  was  fortunate 
that  I  had  not  got  down  upon  my  knees,  or  they 
would  have  been  upon  my  back.  In  fact^  so  im 
petuous  was  their  attack,  that  one  of  them  had 
already  sprung  when  I  faced  round.  I  caught  him 
on  my  arm  and  kicked  him  down  the  hill.  The 
others  were  for  the  moment  intimidated  by  the 
suidenness  of  my  movement,  and  at  seeing  the 
summary  manner  in  which  their  leader  had  been 
dealt  with  ;  and  they  were  in  the  act  of  sneaking 
away,  when  they  perceived  that  I  was  powerless 
to  do  them  any  harm,  having  nothing  in  my  hand. 
Again  they  assumed  the  offensive  ;  they  were  all 
around  me  ;  an  instant  more  and  I  should  be  torn 
to  pieces.  I  had  faced  death  in  several  shapes  be 
fore,  but  never  had  I  felt  as  then ;  my  blood  fairly 
curdled  in  my  veins.  Death  down  the  red  throats 
of  a  pack  of  wolfish  dogs  had  something  about 
it  peculiarly  unpleasant.  Conscious  of  my  weak 
ness,  they  were  preparing  for  a  spring ;  I  had  not 
time  even  to  halloo  for  help  —  to  run  would  be  the 
readiest  means  of  bringing  the  wretches  upon  me. 
My  eye  swept  round  the  group  and  caught  some 
thing  lying  half  buried  in  the  snow,  about  ten  feet 
distant.  Quick  as  a  flash  I  sprang,  as  I  never 
sprang  before  or  since,  over  the  back  of  a  huge  fel 
low  who  stood  before  me ;  and  the  next  instant  I 
was  whirling  about  me  the  lash  of  a  long  whip, 
cutting  to  right  and  left.  The  dogs  retreated  before 
my  blows  and  the  fury  of  my  onset,  and  then  sul 
lenly  skulked  behind  the  rocks.  The  whip  had 
clearly  saved  my  life ;  there  was  nothing  else  with 
in  my  reach  ;  and  it  had  been  (dropped  there  quite 


168  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

accidentally  by  Kalutunah  as  he  went  down  to  the 
sledges. 

My  principal  object  in  mentioning  this  little  inci 
dent  is,  to  show  the  savage  propensity  of  these  dogs, 
which  are  to  the  Esquimaux  more  than  the  horse 
to  us  or  the  camel  to  the  Arab.  Savage  they  arc, 
however,  only  when  hungry.  The  night  without 
food  had  developed  all  their  latent  wolfish  qualities. 
Reclaimed  wolves  they  doubtless  are ;  and,  as 
shown  by  the  boldness  of  their  attack  when  jny 
back  was  turned  and  when  I  had  nothing  in  my 
hand,  and  their  timidity  when  I  had  possession 
of  a  slender  whip,  they  have  all  of  a  wolf's  cow 
ardice.  Their  masters  keep  them  in  subjection 
only  by  intimidation  ;  they  will  do  nothing  for  a 
man  they  do  not  fear;  and  even  the  hunter  who 
has  been  accustomed  to  them  for  years,  and  has 
fed  them  and  driven  them,  has  to  watch  them 
closely  when  they  are  hungry.  His  whip  is  then 
his  constant  companion.  They  are  capable  of  no 
attachment  to  their  master,  be  he  never  so  kind, 
except  in  rare  cases ;  and  they  will  follow  the  man 
who  last  fed  them.  A  little  child  or  a  disabled 
person  is  never  safe  amongst  them  in  times  of 
scarcity.  A  story  was  once  told  me  at  Proven,  of 
a  little  boy,  grandson  of  the  governor,  who  started 
to  walk  from  one  house  to  another  separated  from 
it  by  about  twenty  yards,  and  who  falling  midway, 
was  immediately  pounced  upon  by  more  than  a 
hundred  dogs,  torn  to  pieces,  and  devoured  in  an 
instant,  under  the  eye  of  his  mother,  who  had 
scarcely  time  even  to  scream.  I  was  also  told  ul 
an  old  woman,  who  met  with  a  similar  fate. 


BARGAIN   FOR   SUPPLIES.  169 

When  Kalutunah  came  back  to  the  hut,  we  in 
quired  of  him  whether  his  people  would  undertake 
to  supply  us  with  some  food,  provided  we  would 
give  them  liberally  of  our  wood,  iron,  needles,  and 
knives.  To  this  question  he  would  not  for  a  time 
give  a  direct  answer.  It  was  clear  that  he  had 
something  running  in  his  head,  for  I  could  see  his 
bright  little  eyes  twinkling  with  mischief  beneath 
their  blubbery  lids.  There  was  no  difficulty  in  per 
ceiving  what  it  was ;  and  it  was  all  embraced  in  a 
few  short  questions  which  he  proposed,  instead  of 
answers  to  what  had  been  asked  of  him  by  our  in 
terpreter.  These  questions  were,  —  what  we  had 
killed  with  our  mighty  guns,  and  how  much  food 
we  had  brought  from  the  Oomeaksoak,  at  the  north. 

The  cunning  fellow  knew  well  what  he  was 
about,  and  our  suspicions  were  aroused.  I  saw 
at  once  that  it  would  not  do  to  trust  him.  He 
was  touching  a  subject  upon  which  we  were  es 
pecially  tender;  for  it  was  manifestly  to  our  inter 
est  to  exhibit  as  little  as  possible  our  deficiency  in 
supplies.  Although  we  had  hitherto  received  noth 
ing  but  kindness  from  these  people,  yet  we  had  no 
reason  to  suppose  that  poverty  would  receive  bet 
ter  treatment  at  the  hands  of  savages  than  it  fre 
quently  does  at  those  of  civilized  men. 

Especially  important  was  it  that  they  should 
be  kept  in  ignorance  of  our  want  of  fortune  in 
the  hunt;  for  they  imagined  that  with  our  guna 
we  could  always  command  abundant  supplies. 
When  at  Netlik  some  of  them  had  expressed  jeal 
ousy  lest  we  should  monopolize  their  hunting- 
grounds.  It  was  certainly  better  that  they  should 

15 


170  AN  AKCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

think  that  we  had  been  busy  building  our  hut,  and 
had  not  yet  had  time  to  hunt.  Petersen,  naturally 
shrewd,  and  understanding  well  the  character  of 
the  Esquimau,  was  quite  a  match  for  their  cun 
ning,  even  although  he  was  at  the  disadvantage 
of  having  nothing  to  show  when  Kalutunah  put 
the  question  squarely  to  him :  "  How  will  you 
live  7  »  —  «  Live  ?  shoot  bear  when  we  get  hungry ; 
sleep  when  we  get  tired;  Esquimaux  will  bring  us 
bear,  we  shall  give  them  presents,  and  sleep  all  the 
time.  White  man  easily  get  plenty  to  eat.  Al 
ways  plenty  to  eat,  plenty  of  sleep."  Such,  as 
nearly  as  could  be  interpreted,  were  the  spirit  and 
substarfce  of  Petersen's  reply. 

Thus  opened  our  negotiations.  Their  impor 
tance  will  be  appreciated  by  the  reader  just  in 
proportion  as  he  may  estimate  the  value  which  we 
placed  upon  our  lives.  As  will  have  been  seen, 
they  were  conducted  upon  this  basis,  namely :  that, 
since  with  an  Esquimau  eating  and  sleeping  and 
idling  embrace  the  sum  of  human  aspirations,  it 
was  in  the  circumstances  an  allowable  policy,  to 
encourage  the  belief  that  we  asked  for  food  only 
on  account  of  our  natural  desire  to  sleep  and  be 
idle,  and  not  from  any  want  of  ability  on  our  part 
to  capture  with  our  own  hands  whatever  we  chose, 
Petersen  managed  the  matter  quite  skilfully,  and 
proved  himself  a  very  Talleyrand  in  diplomacy. 

Plainly,  the  case  stood  thus.  The  hunt  having 
utterly  failed  to  supply  us,  we  must  get  our  food 
of  the  natives,  or  not  at  all;  at  least  there  seemed 
to  be  no  other  help  for  us  except,  as  already  ob 
served,  in  the  stone  moss,  —  upon  which  we  had 


DIPLOMACY.  171 

very  little  expectation  that  any  of  us  could  live 
long.  Kalutunah  and  his  people  coveted  (and  it 
was  very  natural  that  they  should)  our  posses 
sions  ;  and  they  would  take  the  shortest  and  safest 
road  to  get  them.  Although  not  generally  in 
clined  to  cruelty,  they  are  callous  to  suffering ;  and 
we  knew  very  well  that  if  the  idea  once  entered 
their  heads  that  we  were  dependent  upon  them, 
we  should  not  get  a  pound  of  meat,  and  our  hut 
would  never  receive  a  visit  until  they  thought  we 
had  all  starved  to  death.  On  the  other  hand,  if 
they  thought  that  we  were  lazy,  and  that  we  did 
not  catch  bears  simply  because  we  did  not  wish  to 
do  it ;  and  that  we  preferred  to  take  our  ease  and 
pay  for  what  we  wanted,  they  would  supply  us  for 
a  consideration.  With  them,  although  a  drone  is 
despised  and  often  murdered  to  be  gotten  rid  of, 
yet  a  great  man  is  always  a  lazy  man.  He  at 
least  is  the  great  man  among  them,  who  by  skill 
and  success  in  hunting,  earns  a  right  to  the  otium 
cum  dignitate.  Indolence  then  becomes  respecta 
ble,  as  it  does  under  like  conditions  everywhere. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

A    TWO    WEEKS    FAMINE. 

THE  result  of  the  negotiations  recorded  in  the  pre 
ceding  chapter  was  to  satisfy  the  Angekok  that  the 
Kablunet  were  not  as  poor  as  he  had  imagined  ;  and 
that  it  was  the  policy  of  the  tribe  to  cultivate  friendly 
relations  with  them.  Accordingly,  we  made  with 
him  a  sort  of  treaty  or  compact,  by  which  his  peo 
ple  were  to  furnish  us  with  as  much  food  as  we 
might  want ;  and  we,  in  return,  were  to  supply  them 
with  wood,  iron,  knives,  and  needles,  at  rates  subse 
quently  to  be  fixed  upon.  With  these  terms  both 
the  contracting  parties  appeared  to  be  well  pleased , 
and  the  Angekok  and  his  companion,  after  passing 
another  night  with  us  and  receiving  some  valuable 
presents,  took  their  departure  for  Saunders  Island, 
where  there  was  a  settlement  called  Akbat  (the 
Lumme  Hill).  They  left  with  us  enough  meat  (all 
they  had)  for  one  meal,  and  a  piece  of  blubber,  from 
whjgh  we  tried  out  three  pints  of  oil.  Petersen 
manufactured,  of  a  sheet  of  tin,  a  little  flat  lamp  to 
burn  with  a  cotton  wick ;  and  rigged  it  to  the  up 
right  post  which  stood  in  the  centre  of  the  room  as 
a  support  to  the  roof,  now  heavy  with  more  than 


DOORWAY  MADE.  173 

two  feet  of  snow.  This  lamp  gave  us  light  enough 
to  read  by,  and  made  the  apartment  look  more 
cheerful. 

It  was  almost  two  weeks  before  we  saw  the 
Esquimaux  again.  In  the  mean  time  our  worst 
suspicions  were  aroused  respecting  their  intentions 
towards  us,  and  we  began  to  entertain  serious 
doubts  of  our  own  safety.  This  period  is  full  of 
sad  memories.  It  was  a  long  interval  of  suffering ; 
and  to  call  up  all  the  harrowing  details  of  its  history 
would  give  no  more  pleasure  to  the  reader  than  to 
myself.  I  will  therefore  pass  briefly  over  the  record, 
giving  only  what  is  needful  to  complete  the  nar 
rative. 

Our  work  went  on.  The  snow  was  cleared  away 
from  the  doorway,  and  a  trench  nine  feet  long  and 
two  feet  wide  was  cut  through  the  drift  out  toward 
the  sea.  This  trench  was  covered  with  blocks  of 
snow  ?  and,  being  made  tight,  gave  us  additional 
security  against  the  winds.  At  its  outer  end  a  hole 
opened  upward  into  daylight;  and  through  this  we 
obtained  entrance  to,  and  exit  from  the  hut.  This 
orifice  was  covered  with  canvas  to  keep  out  the 
snow. 

That  this  rude  contrivance  for  a  doorway,  to 
gether  with  the  hut  itself,  may  be  better  understood, 
I  will  describe  it  more  in  detail. 

Let  the  reader  suppose  that  I  have  just  returned 
from  a  visit  to  the  traps.  First,  I  raise  the  flat  can 
vas  lid,  then  jump  down  four  feet,  then  draw  in 
my  head  and  drop  the  canvas.  I  now  crawl  on 
all  fours,  through  six  feet  of  darkness,  up  a  gentle 
slope,  then  three  feet  more  down  a  rapid  descent, 

15* 


174          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

when  I  come  against  the  door ;  this  I  push  open 
with  my  head ;  I  pass  through,  the  door  shuts  of  it 
self,  and  I  stand  upright,  taking  care  not  to  strike  my 
head  against  the  oar-rafters.  I  am  now  inside  the 
hut.  The  floor,  or  aisle,  on  which  I  stand  is  three 
feet  wide.  To  my  right  hand  is  the  "  breck," 
which  is  the  bed  and  seat  of  four  of  my  compan 
ions  ;  my  place  is  among  them.  To  my  left  is  the 
"  breck "  of  three  others.  If  this  entrance  is  sup 
posed  to  be  late  in  the  day,  they  are  lying  down 
side  by  side,  a  buffalo-skin  under  them,  blankets 
over  them,  their  heads  close  to  my  feet.  Mr.  Bon- 
sall  comes  first,  then  Mr.  Sonntag,  then  a  vacant 
place,  then  poor  sick  Stephenson,  and  last  comes  Mr. 
Petersen.  John,  Godfrey,  and  Whipple  lie  in  a  row 
on  the  other  side,  at  right  angles  to  the  direction  of 
the  four  previously  named.  Before  me  is  the  post 
which  sustains  the  roof,  and  supports  our  little  lamp 
which  has  one  feeble  flame.  Over  this  flame  is 
suspended  a  square  kettle,  which  we  have  made  of 
our  Borden's  meat-biscuit  can.  "We  have  aban 
doned  the  lake  ;  and  now,  with  this  lamp  and  kettle, 
we  melt  from  the  snow  all  the  water  that  we  require, 
—  at  least  all  that  we  can  afford.  Beyond  the  post 
stands  our  open  stove,  in  which  may  be  seen  the 
copper-kettle  and  the  saucepan ;  but  there  is  no  fire 
there.  We  have  fire  only  twice  a  day.  Close 
behind  the  stove  is  the  solid  rock,  which  forms  the 
eastern  side  of  our  hut.  In  a  recess,  in  the  further 
corner  to  the  left,  are  stowed  three  clothes-bags  ;  in 
the  corresponding  corner,  to  the  right,  are  five  more. 
Petersen's  head  is  close  to  the  stove ;  and  close  to 
Petersen's  head  stands  a  gun ;  the  others  are  hang- 


BOAT   BROKEN   UP.  175 

ing  outside  on  pegs,  in  the  passage.  The  canvas 
and  rafters  overhead,  and  the  walls  all  around,  are 
white  with  a  coating  of  frost  and  ice,  —  the  con 
densed  moisture  of  our  breath.  It  is  a  cold,  damp, 
dark,  cheerless  place.  The  temperature  is  not  be 
low  zero  at  the  floor,  nor  above  40°  in  the  centre. 
The  temperature  outside  ranges  from  zero  to  20° 
below  it.  It  is  early  winter  yet,  and  the  cold  has 
not  fully  set  in.  This  difference  between  the  out 
side  and  inside  record  is  owing  to  the  heat  radiated 
from  our  bodies.  The  warm  breath,  charged  with 
the  moisture  which  frescoes  the  walls  and  ceiling  of 
our  snow-palace  with  glittering  crystals,  heats  it  too. 
The  reader  will  more  readily  appreciate  this  when 
he  recalls  the  dimensions  of  the  apartment  into 
which  were  crowded  eight  men.  Its  average  length 
(for  the  walls  are  not  quite  parallel)  is  fourteen  feet, 
its  breadth  is  eight  feet,  and  its  mean  height  is  five 
feet. 

I  have  said  that  we  had  fire  only  twice  a  day. 
This  fire  was  not,  however,  intended  for  warmth, 
but  merely  for  the  purpose  of  boiling  a  pot  of  coffee, 
and  of  cooking  whatever  food  we  might  have. 
Whilst  we  had  fat  we  used  the  lamp  which  had 
served  us  in  the  field ;  but  this  failing,  we  burned 
whatever  wood  we  happened  to  possess.  I  have 
already  mentioned  that  we  were  using  the  staves  of 
our  bread-barrel  and  of  our  kegs.  These  could  not, 
of  course,  last  long ;  and,  at  length,  there  was  no 
resource  but  our  boats.  The  Hope  was,  accord 
ingly,  broken  to  pieces.  It  went  to  our  very  hearts 
to  destroy  this  gallant  companion  of  so  many  strug 
gles  ;  and  we  knew  not  how  far  the  act  might  affect 


176          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT-  JOURNEY. 

our  future  fortunes  ;  but  come  what  would,  and 
regret  the  destruction  as  we  might,  there  was  no 
alternative.  At  first  we  used  her  tenderly,  as  if 
to  prolong  the  actual  dissolution,  —  tearing  away 
such  pieces  only  as  did  not  affect  her  form ;  but, 
finally,  the  gunwale  had  to  be  sacrificed,  —  and  then 
the  Hope  lay  in  the  snow  a  hopeless  wreck.  We 
looked  upon  her  now  merely  as  a  mass  of  lumber, 
and  burned  her  up  without  compunction.  The  best 
pieces,  —  the  thwarts,  the  keel,  and  in  fact  all  that 
were  likely  to  be  of  any  service  to  the  Esquimaux, — 
were  saved,  and  carefully  stowed  away  in  one  corner 
of  the  hut  as  merchandise,  so  as  to  be  inaccessible 
to  the  thieving  fellows  whose  skill  and  acquisitive 
ness  were  now  to  be  our  only  dependence  for  the 
means  of  life. 

It  must  not  be  thought  that  this  insignificant 
supply  of  wood,  altogether  not  more  than  a  few 
arm-loads,  gave  us  much  fire.  At  most,  we  could 
use  only  a  mere  handful  of  splinters ;  and  even 
these  were  poor,  for  the  wood  was  water-soaked, 
and  a  large  part  of  it  could  not  be  made  to  burn 
without  constant  blowing.  In  consequence  of  this 
there  was  so  much  smoke  that  we  were  almost 
stifled  whenever  meal-time  came  round ;  sometimes 
we  were  absolutely  driven  from  the  hut. 

We  were  indefatigable  in  our  efforts  to  add  some 
thing  to  our  stock  of  food ;  but  day  after  day  went 
by,  and  still  it  was  the  same  monotonous  story, — • 
failure.  Fox-traps  were  built  along  the  shore,  to  the 
north  and  to  the  south,  chiefly  under  the  superin 
tendence  of  Petersen.  There  were,  I  think,  four 
teen,  and  they  ranged  over  nearly  ten  miles  of 


BUILDING  TRAPS.  «      177 

coast.  They  were  visited  daily,  when  the  weather 
would  permit ;  but,  except  in  a  single  instance,  none 
of  them  were  ever  found  to  contain  anything  but 
drifted  snow,  which  required  them  to  be  torn  down 
and  reconstructed.  Several  times  they  had  been  en 
tered  by  animals,  which  had  escaped  in  consequence 
of  some  defect  of  construction. 

These  traps  were  built  nearly  upon  the  same  prin 
ciple  as  a  boy's  rabbit-trap  at  home.  Selecting  a 
smooth,  level  rock,  we  arranged  some  flat  stones  of 
about  six  inches  thick,  so  as  to  inclose  on  three 
sides  an  area  six  inches  by  two  feet  and  a  half. 
Over  this  inclosure  were  laid  other  flat  stones  ;  and 
between  the  two  which  closed  up  one  of  the  ends, 
was  inserted  a  peg  projecting  'an  inch  within  the 
inclosure.  On  this  peg  was  loot*ely  hung,  by  a  loop, 
a  small  piece  of  meat ;  outside  of  this,  on  the  same 
peg,  was  placed  another  loop  made  at  the  end  of  a 
cord,  which  was  carried  up  through  the  rear  of  the 
trap,  and  over  the  top  to  the  front,  where  it  was  tied 
around  a  thin  flat  flag  of  slate  which  moved  freely 
up  and  down,  being  guided  and  held  by  two  large 
blocks  placed  one  on  either  side  of  the  entrance. 
The  operation  of  this  simple  machinery  will  be 
readily  understood.  The  fox  enters  under  the  slide 
or  trap-door,  advances  to  the  rear,  seizes  the  bait, 
and  attempts  to  back  out ;  the  bait  is  pulled  from  the 
peg,  and  with  it  the  loop  which  supports  the  door. 
This  support  being  removed  the  dpor  falls,  and 
the  animal  is  caught.  Everything  now  depends 
upon  the  cracks  being  tightly  closed ;  for  if  the 
animal  can  get  his  little  nose  between  two  &tones, 
he  is  .sure  to  make  his  way  out.  It  is  also  impor- 


178  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT   JOURNEY. 

tant  that  the  space  should  not  be  large  enough  to 
allow  him  to  turn  round j  for,  in  that  case,  the  tiap 
must  be  very  perfect  if  he  does  not  loosen  the  door 
and  escape.  This  accident  happened  to  us  several 
times,  —  no  doubt,  to  the  great  joy  of  the  fox,  but 
much  to  our  discomfiture. 

Not  a  day  passed  that  we  were  not  out  with  our 
guns  and  rifles.  Petersen,  accompanied  by  different 
members-  of  the  party  in  turn,  watched  the  open 
cracks  in  the  ice  for  a  seal  or  a  walrus ;  while  others 
were  scouring  the  land  in  search  of  hares  and  foxes. 
Of  the  former  we  discovered  not  one,  although 
tracks  were  sometimes  observed,  and  our  search  was 
most  diligent.  The  animals  being  purely  white, 
with  only  a  few  black  hairs  on  the  tips  of  then- 
ears,  could  not  be  easily  detected.  They  frequent 
the  rocky  places  where  they  find  shelter,  and  come 
down  to  the  plain  to  feed  on  grass,  moss,  and  lichen, 
which  they  dig  up  from  beneath  the  snow.  We 
hunted  around  and  around  the  rocks  at  the  base 
of  the  cliffs,  where  it  seemed  most  probable  that 
hares  would  be  found,  but  to  no  purpose ;  we  could 
never  start  one.  The  foxes  (both  the  blue  and  white 
varieties)  were  repeatedly  seen  ;  but  they  were  very 
timid,  and  could  not  be  approached  within  a  shorter 
range  than  two  or  three  hundred  yards.  On  one 
occasion  Mr.  Bonsall  and  myself  had  a  tedious  run 
for  fully  three  hours  after  one,  without  success. 
Each  of  us  had  a  gun,  and  we  tried  every  art  and 
stratagem.  The  little  fellow  was  seen  one  moment 
far  up  the  hill-side,  seated  upon  a  rock;  and  being 
thence  pursued,  he  would  leap  down,  and  clamber 
ing  around  the  face  of  the  hill,  would  be  next  seen 


FOX  HUNTING.  179 

on  the  plain  •,  where,  again  pursued,  he  would  play 
fully  circle  about  us,  as  if  the  subject  of  slaughter 
ing  him  was  to  us  not  the  most  serious  business 
in  the  world.  Bonsall  hid  behind  a  rock  while  I 
chased ;  and  again  I  hid  and  Bonsall  chased ;  but, 
although  several  times  the  secreted  party  seemed  to 
be  directly  in  the  fox's  path,  yet  he  always  turned  at 
the  proper  moment  to  insure  the  safety  of  his  neck, 
trotting  gracefully  away,  snuffing  the  air,  —  the  pret 
tiest  and  most  provoking  of  living  creatures.  He 
was  about  the  size  of  a  domestic  cat,  round  and 
plump,  white  as  the  snow,  with  a  long,  pointed 
nose,  and  a  long,  trailing,  bushy  tail,  which  seemed 
to  be  his  especial  pride.  It  was  quite  evident  that 
he  was  amusing  himself;  and  he  appeared  to  be 
conscious  that  he  was  doing  it  at  our  expense.  He 
rolled  and  tossed  himself  about  among  the  loose 
drift,  now  springing  into  the  air,  now  bounding 
away,  now  stopping  short,  cocking  his  head  to  one 
side  and  elevating  one  foot,  as  if  listening,  seeming 
all  the  time  to  be  showing  off  his  "  points  "  to  ene 
mies,  for  whom  he  cared  not  the  value  of  the  very 
smallest  part  of  his  very  pretty  tail.  Tired  and  ex 
hausted  we  gave  up  the  pursuit  and  returned  home. 
The  fox  followed  us,  always  at  a  safe  distance ;  and 
when  we  last  saw  him,  as  we  looked  back  from  the 
rocks  above  the  hut,  he  was  mounted  on  an  eleva 
tion,  uttering  his  shrill,  sharp  cry,  which  sounded 
much  like  mockery  of  our  defeat. 

Petersen  had  no  better  success  at  sea.  He  ob 
served  several  seals,  but  all  of  them  at  a  distance. 
One  was  fired  at  by  him  at  the  long  range  of  two 
hundred  yards,  and  was  wounded  ;  another  was 


180  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

killed,  or  supposed  to  be,  at  a  shorter  distance ;  but 
the  wounded  one  escaped  and  the  other  sank. 

The  place  is  barren  and  desolate  beyond  descrip 
tion.  Kalutunah  told  us  that  the  coast,  from  a  little 
way  below  Cape  Parry  to  the  mouth  of  Wolsten- 
holme  Sound,  is  called  "the  barren  ground."  Even 
the  poor  pittance  of  -stone-moss  that  we  get,  comes 
not  without  hard  labor  and  much  searching.  Some 
of  us  are  in  pursuit  of  it  almost  every  day.  This 
service  generally  falls  to  the  lot  of  Sonntag,  Bonsall, 
and  myself.  Stephenson  is  an  invalid,  but  when  he 
can  crawl  out  of  doors  we  may  count  upon  him,  for 
he  is  full  of  spirit.  The  moss  does  not  agree  with 
John,  Godfrey,  and  Whipple,  as  well  as  with  the  rest 
of  us,  and  we  seldom  have  their  help ;  we  therefore 
put  them  on  watch  alternately  at  the  hut,  and  let  one 
of  them  go  with  Petersen,  and  the  other  to  the  traps 
at  Booth  Bay,  when  they  are  able.  The  poor  fel 
lows,  however,  are  mostly  sick,  and  they  seldom  stir 
abroad. 

We  (the  moss-gatherers)  go  out  in  the  morning  as 
soon  as  it  is  light.  Each  carries  a  tin-plate,  a  piece 
of  hoop-iron  (a  relic  of  our  kegs)  bent  in  the  shape 
of  a  horse-shoe,  and  a  little  bag,  —  which  is  a  shirt 
with  the  neck  and  sleeves  tied  up.  The  plate  is  to 
clear  away  the  snow,  which  is  often  more  than  two 
feet  deep  ;  the  iron  is  to  scrape  off  the  moss.  We 
travel  always  over  much  ground.  Once  we  crossed 
the  bay  to  the  south  of  us,  and  were  distant  from  the 
hut  six  miles.  Sometimes  our  labor  is  rewarded 
with  a  good  supply,  —  enough  to  last  two  or  three 
days ;  sometimes  we  do  not  collect  enough  in  five  or 
six  hours  to  give  us  a  single  meal.  I  have  sought 


SHORT  ALLOWANCE.  181 

alone,  for  a  whole  day,  without  getting  a  pint.  The 
greater  number  of  the  rocks  have  nothing  on  them, 
and  the  hard  labor  of  clearing  away  the  deep  snow 
is  unrecompensed. 

We  boil  the  moss  with  a  handful  or  two  of  meat- 
biscuit,  flour,  or  bread-dust,  and  thus  eke  out  our 
supplies.  It  is  disgusting  at  best,  and  is  scarcely 
more  nutritious  than  paper.  When  the  Esquimaux 
left  us,  we  had  each  thirty-six  biscuits,  besides  three 
pints  of  bread-dust.  The  allowance  to  each  man 
was  one  biscuit  a  day ;  but  the  temperature  is  so  low, 
and  our  labor  so  hard,  that  this  small  quantity  of 
food  is  not  sufficient  for  our  need.  We  vote  to  live 
better,  and  -then  starve  if  we  must,  —  and  so  we 
double  the  ration. 

Every  day  of  this  sort  of  life  tells  its  tale  in  fur 
rows  in  our  cheeks  ;  the  stone-moss  has  given  some 
of  us  violent  diarrhoea  and  gastritis.  We  are  all 
frightfully  weak.  Godfrey  has  fainted,  in  trying  to 
raise  himself;  and  falling,  he  would  have  seriously 
injured  himself  against  the  wall,  had  he  not  been 
caught  by  John.  The  latter  is  scarcely  able  to  walk ; 
and  besides  he  suffers  much  from  hemorrhoids. 
Whipple  is  no  stronger.  Stephenson  lies  beside  me, 
gasping  for  breath.  His  heart  troubles  have  come 
back  ;  and  I  never  go  out  without  expecting  to  find 
him,  upon  my  return,  a  corpse. 

What  shall  we  do  ?  Will  the  Esquimaux  never 
come  ?  — 

Yes!  here  they  are  at  last!  Their  merry  voices 
sound  loudly  through  the  darkness  of  the  night ; 
and  we  are  saved, —  at  least  from  our  present  periL 

16 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

SCHEMES   FOR    MOVING    SOUTHWARD. 

October  26th.  THE  Esquimaux  have  come  and 
gone  again ;  and  we,  having  gone  through  the  nat 
ural  ravenous  assaults  of  starving  men  upon  their 
supplies,  are  now  fattening  on  the  juicy  bear's  meat 
they  left  us.  They  had  gone  down  to  Cape  York  on 
a  visit  to  their  brethren  there,  stopping  on  the  way 
at  Akbat,  and  hunting  in  the  interval.  Cape  York 
is  the  most  southern  settlement  of  this  people.  The 
place  is  called -by  them  Imnanak  (the  cliffs).  They 
had  upon  their  sledges  the  skins  of  three  bears,  and 
the  greater  part  of  the  meat  of  the  animals ;  but  they 
were  very  chary  of  it,  and  we  obtained  only  enough 
to  suffice  us  for  a  few  days. 

We  ate  of  our  newly  acquired  food  no  more  than 
was  necessary  to  restore  our  strength.  The  defi 
ciency  of  bulk  we  supplied,  as  before,  with  stone- 
moss.  This  moss,  however,  during  forty-eight  hours 
after  the  arrival  of  the  sledges,  was  voted  a  nuisance ; 
and  we  devoured  the  rich  and  wholesome  food  as 
only  famished  men  could.  These  two  days  wrought 
a  wonderful  change  in  us.  Our  cheeks  filled  out; 
the  dizziness  with  which  we  had  all  been  affected 


A  CHEERFUL  EVENING.  183 

vanished ;  and  our  normal  strength  was  in  a  measure 
regained.  The  ghastly,  haggard  expression  which 
our  faces  wore  gave  place  to  one  of  cheerfulness. 

The  evening  after  our  savage  benefactors  left  us 
figures  in  my  memory  as  one  of  the  pleasantest  of 
my  life ;  pleasant  because  it  was  cheerful,  because  all 
care  was  forgotten,  and  the  moment  was  enjoyed  for 
its  own  sake,  without  thought  for  the  morrow,  or  fear 
of  what  was  to  come  in  the  more  distant  future. 
We  felt  hopeful,  strong,  and  self-reliant ;  and,  more 
than  all,  we  felt  thankful  in  our  very  heart  of  hearts 
for  the  Providential  gifts  so  timely  sent  us,  teaching 
us  our  dependence  upon  the  Great  Universal  Father, 
who,  as  he  "  suffers  not  a  sparrow  to  fall  to  the 
ground  without  his  notice,"  forsakes  not  even  the 
weakest  of  his  children  in  the  solitude  of  the  desert. 

It  was  irideed  a  gladsome  time.  How  curiously 
dependent  is  our  spiritual  upon  our  physical  nature ! 
Now  that  we  had  enough  to  eat,  past  and  future 
perils  and  sufferings  were  alike  forgotten,  and  we 
signalized  our  repast  by  doubling  our  ration  of  cof 
fee.  Petersen,  ever  careful,  thoughtful,  and  generous, 
brought  out  from  the  middle  of  his  bag  a  small  pack 
age  of  cigars,  —  a  present  from  Dr.  Kane ;  and  our 
senses  inhaled  new  life  with  the  rich  flavor  of  a  gen 
uine  "  Havana."  The  men  smoothed  the  bedclothes 
on  the  north  side  of  the  hut ;  and  Sonntag,  Bonsall, 
and  myself  took  turns  with  them  in  a  game  of  whist, 
and  in  reading  some  chapters  from  "  The  Fair  Maid 
of  Perth."  The  genial  warmth  of  Scott  was  felt  in 
that  snow-imbedded  hut,  and  our  faces  expressed  the 
interest  excited  by  his  tale.  The  temperature  was 
unusually  warm,  having  risen  to  44°  ;  and  it  was  far 


184  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

into  the  "  wee  sma'  hours  ayant  the  twa',"  when  we 
retired  to  rest. 

The  following  days  dragged  their  slow  length 
along,  and  the  same  routine  of  duties  and  em 
ployments  marked  their  progress.  The  Esquimaux 
came  again,  and  brought  to  us  a  few  small  pieces 
of  meat  and  blubber ;  and  they  went  away  prom 
ising  to  return  with  more.  Other  incidents  oc 
curred  to  occupy  our  attention.  We  caught  two 
foxes ;  and  as  we  owed  one  of  them  to  one  of  the 
traps,  we  considered  ourselves  well  paid  for  all  our 
trouble  in  constructing,  visiting,  and  reconstructing 
these.  The  prisoner  so  taken  was  small,  and  of  a 
blue,  or  rather  blueish-gray  color;  and  his  flesh  made 
for  us  two  scanty  meals.  Except  in  color,  he  ap 
peared  to  resemble  closely  the  white  specimen  already 
described.  The  other  of  the  two  just*  mentioned 
was  shot  by  me  in  the  night.  I  heard  him  running 
over  the  roof  as  I  lay  revolving  schemes  for  the  fu 
ture  ;  and,  without  stopping  to  dress,  I  hurried  out 
of  the  hut  with  a  gun.  The  night  was  so  dark  that 
the  sight  was  not  discernible,  and  I  therefore  fired 
almost  at  random.  The  first  barrel  missed  its  mark, 
but  the  second  was  more  successful;  and  I  could  see 
the  fox,  badly  wounded,  hobbling  down  the  hill  over 
the  snow.  Fearful  that  the  prize  would  escape,  I 
gave  chase,  and  overtook  him  after  running  about 
fifty  yards ;  but  the  experiment  had  come  near  to 
costing  me  dearly.  Having  no  boots,  and  only  a 
pair  of  light  stockings  on  my  feet,  these  were.found, 
upon  my  return. to  the  hut,  to  be  frozen,  —  their  color 
resembling  that  of  a  tallow  candle.  The  frost,  how 
ever,  had  not  penetrated  very  deeply ;  and,  by  the 


THOUGHTS  OF  HOME/  181 

timely  application  of  ice-cold  water,  of  which  there 
was  fortunately  a  supply  in  the  kettle,  and  light  fric 
tion  afterwards  with  the  feathery  side  of  a  bird-skin, 
I  escaped  with  a  few  blisters.  This  plan  of  treat 
ment  I  learned  from  the  Esquimaux  ;  and  on  this,  as 
well  as  many  subsequent  occasions,  I  had  opportu 
nity  to  test  its  efficiency. 

Sunday,  October  29th.  I  spent  this  day  with  Bon- 
sail  in  wandering  over  the  plain,  searching  for  stone- 
IDOSS  ;  dedicating  our  thoughts  to  the  absent.  We 
knew  how  our  friends  at  home  were  keeping  the  day, 
and  we  wondered  whether  or  not  they  were  remem 
bering  us  in  their  devotions.  We  knew,  too,  that 
they  must  have  been  anxiously  looking  for  us  ;  and 
that,  in  a  few  days,  they  would  begin  to  fear  for  our 
safety. 

The  temperature  when  we  went  out  in  the  morn 
ing  was  thirty-two  degrees  below  zero,  and  scraping 
off  the  snow  was  so  cold  a  work  that  we  obtained 
little  moss. 

At  noon  we  halted  nearly  at  the  head  of  the  south 
bay,  where  there  is  a  pile  of  rocks  above  a  low  preci 
pice  from  which  we  commanded  a  good  view.  Here 
we  found  Petersen,  who  had  torn  down  a  trap  to 
clear  it  of  snow ;  and  who  was  just  commencing 
to  reconstruct  it.  He  had  visited  all  his  traps,  and 
rebuilt  and  rebaited  them. 

Petersen  too  had  his  thoughts  in  the  south.  His 
wife,  his  daughter,  and  his  boy  were  engrossing  his 
soul,  while  his  body  grew  chilly  at  his  unwelcome 
work.  His  face  was  sad  and  thoughtful ;  and  as  I 
came  up  beside  him  and  lifted  a  stone  for  him,  he 

16* 


186  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

said,  sorrowfully,  "  I  was  thinking  of  Paul."  Ah . 
pretty,  gallant  little  Paul !  it  was  well  that  you  did 
not  know  that  on  your  father's  furrowed  cheek  lay  a 
frozen  tear. 

We  finished  the  trap,  and  involuntarily  turned  our 
eyes  in  the  direction  in  which  our  thoughts  had  been 
flying.  The  sun,  low  upon  the  horizon,  shone  through 
a  gray  mist,  with  no  more  appearance  of  warmth 
than  the  rocks  and  ice  and  snow  about  us. 

Far  behind  that  dreary  mist  lay  our  home-world, 
gladdened  by  a  genial  sun  —  glowing  in  the  gold 
and  crimson  of  its  autumn.  The  pictures  which  our 
fancy  drew  made  such'  contrast  with  the  realities  of 
our  situation,  that  we  fell  to  scheming  again  for  our 
deliverance. 

I  had  a  project  which  possessed  at  least  the 
merit  of  'tending  in  the  direction  of  our  duty :  it 
was  .to  hire  the  Esquimaux  to  carry  us  on  their 
sledges  to  Upernavik.  We  would  wait  through 
November  and  set  out  by  the  moonlight  of  De 
cember,  when,  in  all  probability,  the  sea  would  be 
closed.  Petersen  declared  this  to  be  impracticable  ; 
but  we  agreed  to  renew  its  discussion  in  the  hut,  in 
our  way  toward  which  other  plans  were  proposed ; 
but  none  of  them  brought  us  to  any  conclusion, 
other  than  that  it  was  necessary  to  do  something 
soon. 

We  reached  the  hut,  to  find  there  an  Esquimau 
just  arrived  from  Akbat.  It  is  two  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  and  the  temperature  has  come  up  to  twenty- 
seven  degrees  below  zero. 

Our  new  visitor  is  a  sprightly  little  fellow ;  drives 
an  excellent  dog-team,  of  which  he  seems  to  be  very 


A  YOUNG  LOVER.  187 

proud ;  and  is  the  most  promising  looking  young 
hunter  we  have  seen.  He  is  dressed  in  the  usual 
suit  of  bear  and  fox-pelts ;  but  they  are  all  new, 
and  show  evidence  of  care.  He  is  evidently  some 
body's  pet.  Even  among  these  poor  savages  the 
kindly  care  of  female  hands  is  manifest  upon  the 
favorite  young  fellows.  He  confesses  his  having 
a  sweetheart  in  Netlik,  and  thither  he  is  bound. 
Love's  tokens  pass  everywhere  —  our  Esquimau  has 
a  bundle  of  bird-skins  to  make  an  under-garment 
for  his  fair  one. 

We  presented  him  with  a  small  pocket-knife,  and 
a  piece  of  wood ;  both  of  which  pleased  him  greatly. 
With  the  latter  he  at  once  spliced  his  whipstock.  I 
gave  him  a  couple  of  needles  for  his  intended  bride ; 
and  Sonntag  added  a  string  of  beads  for  her.  These 
attentions  put  him  almost  beside  himself  with  joy  j 
but  he  afterward  seemed  pained  that  he  could  offer  to 
us  no  suitable  return.  He  had  nothing  on  his  sledge 
(his  hunting  equipment  of  course  excepted)  but  two 
small  pieces  of  blubber,  four  birds,  about  a  pound  of 
bear's  meat,  a  piece  of  bear's  skin,  and  that  insepa 
rable  companion  of  every  Esquimau  hunter,  a  small 
lamp.  All  these  he  laid  at  our  feet ;  and  soon  he  was 
dashing  up  the  coast  apparently  unable  to  contain  his 
impatience  to  show  his  treasures  to  the  eyes  whose 
approval  he  valued  more  than  that  of  all  the  world 
beside. 

October  20th.  We  have  given  up  all  thought  of 
capturing  seals  ;  and  we  rely  upon  supplies  from  the 
Esquimaux,  upon  game  from  our  traps,  and  upon  the 
stone-moss.  Mr.  Sonntag,  Mr.  Bonsall,  and  William 
Godfrey  are  out  after  the  last.  I  go  with  John  to  the 
north. 


188  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

"We  have  made  two  more  traps.  Petersen  has  gone 
as  usual  to  the  south.  George  Whipple  has  kept 
watch  at  the  hut ;  he  is  not  well.  Stephenson  has 
another  relapse  :  but  this  is  not  as  bad  as  his  former 
attacks.  The  weather  is  fine.  The  air  is  calm,  and 
the  sky  clear.  The  temperature  at  ten  o'clock  in  the 
morning  was  at  thirty,  at  twelve  o'clock  it  rose  to 
eighteen,  and  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  it 
stood  at  thirty -one  degrees  below  zero  ;  yet  our  hut 
is  not  uncomfortable. 

One  of  my  little  household  gods  is  "  David  Cop- 
perfield ; "  and  I  spent  the  evening  reading  aloud 
of  the  early  struggles  of  the  widow's  son. 

October  31st.  The  day  differs  from  yesterday  only 
in  a  slight  change  in  the  arrangement  of  the  dramatis 
persons.  Petersen  stayed  at  home  to  do  some  tink 
ering ; —  making  of  hoop-iron  some  knives  for  the 
Esquimaux.  Bonsall  and  myself  took  his  place. 
We  found  that  one  of  the  traps  had  been  entered, 
but  that  the  door  had  been  caught  in  falling,  and  the 
animal  had  escaped.  A  fox  had  been  sitting  on 
another  trap ;  but  he  was  too  cunning  to  venture 
inside.  Mr.  Sonntag  visited  the  traps  at  the  north, 
all  of  which  he  found  empty.  He  built  a  new  one 
and  collected  some  stone-moss. 

The  temperature  to-day  has  been  almost  the  same 
as  that  of  yesterday.  At  the  same  hours  at  which 
the  thermometer  was  then  noted,  it  has  stood  to-day 
at  27°,  26°,  and  31°  below  zero. 

Some  fleecy  clouds  hang  around  the  horizon ;  and 
they  have  been  beautifully  illuminated,  for  many 
hours,  by  the  sun,  only  a  small  part  of  whose  disk 
was  seen  above  the  ice  at  noonday.  We  could,  of 


DOUBTFUL   PLANS.  189 

course,  see  even  that  part  of  it  only  by  refraction.. 
The  god  of  day  has  gone  to  the  south,  and  the 
long  winter  night  is  at  length  upon  us. 

Thus  far  we  have  avoided  talking  much  of  our 
prospects,  for  none  of  us  had  matured  any  plans. 
Indeed,  whatever  we  might  have  projected,  noth 
ing  could  have  been  done  hitherto,  except  what 
has  already  been  accomplished  ;  but,  now  that  the 
sea  is  for  the  most  part  closed,  a  movement  hence 
may  be  practicable. 

The  first  proposal  made,  was  that  above  men 
tioned,  namely :  to  endeavor  to  live  by  whatever 
available  means,  during  four  weeks  longer,  and  then 
to  continue  our  journey  over  the  ice  southward. 
Many  phases  of  this  scheme  were  considered  in 
turn.  The  alacrity  manifested  during  our  discus 
sion  was  most  gratifying.  If  the  Esquimaux 
would  not  undertake  to  carry  us  southward  on  their 
sledges,  it  was  proposed  that  we  should  purchase 
their  teams ;  and  if  they  would  not  sell  as  many 
as  would  be  required  to  convey  our  entire  party, 
that  we  should  trade  with  them  for  dogs  enough 
to  transport  one  half  of  us,  —  the  other  half  remain 
ing,  either  to  live  with  the  natives  until  the  former 
should  bring  succor,  or  to  find  their  way  to  the  brig. 

A  little  calm  reflection,  and  a  few  words  from 
practical  Petersen,  showed  that  of  all  of  our  sugges 
tions,  the  execution  was  too  doubtful.  In  the  first 
place,  the  distance  to  Upernavik  is  fully  seven  hun 
dred  miles  by  the  tortuous  route  we  must  follow. 
We  could  make  one  journey  to  Akbat,  thirty  miles ; 
a  second  to  Cape  York,  from  seventy  to  a  hundred 
miles  further;  but  then  we  should  reach  Melville 


190  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

Bay,  of  which  as  it  is  in  winter  no  one  knew  any 
thing  except  that  its  shores  were  wholly  uninhabited ; 
it  was,  probably,  not  entirely  closed,  and  the  ice 
upon  it  must  be  rough  ;  we  should  not  be  cer 
tain  of  finding  game;  and  for  so  many  persons 
the  sledges  could  not  carry  a  sufficiency  of  food. 

If  one  half  of  our  party  should  be  left  behind, 
they  would  probably  be  destroyed  by  the  Esqui 
maux,  as  the  force  would  not  be  strong  enough  to 
resist  attack.  It  seemed  too  unpromising  to  un 
dertake,  in  the  dead  of  winter,  to  cross  an  icy  des 
ert  of  six  hundred  miles,  with  no  other  shelter  than 
a  snow-hut,  and  with  no  other  resource  for  food 
than  the  precarious  hunt.  That  the  Esquimaux 
would  not  go  with  us  appeared  certain ;  and  it 
was  not  probable  that  they  would  sell  their  teams. 
Nevertheless  the  plan  is  a  favorite  one  with  the 
party,  and  it  is  not  easily  abandoned.  If  it  could 
be  carried  out  in  any  shape,  all  of  our  objects  would 
be  attained.  We  should  be  in  Upernavik  more 
than  six  months  before  the  arrival  of  the  whalers 
on  their  way  northward,  in  the  summer.  We  dis 
miss  the  subject  for  the  present,  intending  to  talk 
of  it  to  the  Esquimaux  when  they  shall  come  to 
us  again. 

All  of  our  party  are  agreed  that,  come  what 
may,  we  must  endeavor  to  open  communication 
with  Rensselaer  Harbor,  and  obtain  a  supply  of 
food  from  the  abundant  stock  of  pork  and  bread 
of  the  Advance.  If  we  can  accomplish  such  a 
reinforcement  of  our  stores  as  will  sustain  us  dur 
ing  the  winter,  we  may,  in  case  our  December 
scheme  shall  prove  abortive,  go  to  Cape  York,  and 


COMMUNICATION   WITH  THE  BRIG.  191 

there  await  the  arrival  of  the  whalers,  who  al 
ways  pass  in  July  within  hailing  distance  of  that 
point. 

Every  day  makes  us  feel  more  and  more  how 
dependent  we  are  upon  the  Esquimaux ;  yet  our 
confidence  in  them,  never  great,  was  shaken  dur 
ing  the  last  visit  but  one  we  have  received  from 
them,  and  we  must  in  some  way  speedily  render 
ourselves  independent  of  them. 

The  only  conclusion  upon  which  we  agree,  is 
that  we  must,  in  the  first  place,  establish  com 
munication  with  the  brig  at  Rensselaer  Harbor. 
This  is  recognized  by  all  of  us  as  a  necessity ;  but 
how  it  is  to  be  effected  we  do  not  see.  The  dan 
ger  of  the  attempt  would  be  second  only  to  that 
of  our  proposed  southern  journey.  We  are  three 
hundred  miles  from  the  brig,  and  to  travel  that 
distance  over  the  ice  at  this  season  of  the  year,  is 
truly  a  grave  enterprise.  What  shall  we  do  ? 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

PLANS    FOR    OBTAINING    SUPPLIES. 

THE  subject  of  our  miserable  condition  was  re 
sumed  the  following  evening.  Petersen  volunteered 
to  go,  at  the  earliest  opportunity,  to  Netlik,  and  to 
endeavor  there  to  organize  a  caravan  of  sledges 
to  proceed  to  the  brig  for  provisions.  I  believe  that 
there  was  not  a  member  of  the  party  who  would 
not  willingly  have  undertaken  the  dangerous  task ; 
but  Petersen  was  clearly  the  best  fitted  by  his  ex 
perience  for  the  service.  Indeed,  he  was  the  only 
one  of  us  who  could  talk  with  the  natives. 

Kalutunah,  the  very  man  whom  we  wished  most 
to  see,  came  next  day,  accompanied  by  a  young 
hunter  of  Netlik,  and  by  a  woman  with  a  child, 
which  she  carried  in  a  hood  upon  her  back.  The 
little  creature  was  not  six  months  old ;  and  yet, 
wrapped  up  in  fox-skins,  and  lying  close  to  its 
mother's  back,  its  fur-covered  head  peeping  above 
her  left  shoulder,  it  did  not  seem  to  suffer  from  the 
long  exposure. 

I  was  never  more  struck  with  the  hardihood  and 
indifference  to  cold,  manifested  by  these  people, 
than  on  this  occasion.  This  woman  had  subjected 
herself  to  a  temperature  of  thirty-five  degrees  below 


VISITORS.  193 

zero,  with  the  liability  to  be  caught  in  a  gale ;  had 
travelled  forty  miles  over  a  track  the  roughness  of 
which  frequently  compelled  her  to  dismount  from 
the  sledge  and  walk;  she  had  carried  her  child  all 
the  way  ;  her  sole  motive  being  her  curiosity  to  see 
the  white  men,  their  igloe  (hut),  and  their  strange 
treasures.  We  must  at  least  concede  that  she  mani 
fested  extraordinary  courage  and  endurance  in  the 
gratifying  of  her  desire. 

Kalutunah  and  his  companion  had  each  a  sledge; 
and  each  brought  some  pieces  of  walrus-beef  and 
blubber,  for  which  we  paid  them  liberally  with 
wood  from  the  Hope. 

Petersen  was  soon  in  conversation  with  them,  with 
respect  to  our  contemplated  journey  to  the  south. 
Kalutunah  had  heard  before  of  Upernavik,  and  he 
was  greatly  pleased  with  Petersen's  description  of  its 
riches;  its  abundant  wood  andiron  ;  its  never-ending 
supply  of  seal,  and  walrus,  and  narwhal,  and  fox, 
and  reindeer.  He  would  like  to  live  there ;  would 
like  to  take  his  family  and  all  his  people  there ;  but 
it  was  impossible.  No  one  could  cross  the  great 
frozen  sea  —  the  "  Melville  Bay  ice." 

Kalutunah  did  not  know  when  his  people  had 
communicated  with  the  south  ;  but  there  is  a  tradi 
tion  to  the  effect  that  Innuit,  (men,)  that  is,  Esqui 
maux,  live  there  ;  and  that  they  once  had  intercourse 
with  his  own  immediate  tribe. 

This  fact  has  an  important  bearing  upon  the  cli 
matology  of  the  region,  and  upon  the  physical  aspects 
of  Greenland  and  its  adjacent  waters.  If  the  Esqui 
maux  of  the  coasts  bordering  Baffin  Bay  on  the 
north  and  south  once  held  intercourse  with  each 

17 


194  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

other,  as  is  asserted  by  this  tradition,  then  the 
intervening  space  (Melville  Bay)  was  in  a  differ 
ent  condition  from  that  in  which  we  found  it  —  that 
is,  so  completely  ice-locked  that  no  human  being 
could  live  there.  Kalutunah  declared  that  unless 
there  were  on  the  way  good  hunting-grounds  none 
of  his  people  would  undertake  to  cross  the  bay. 

The  Esquimaux,  doubtless,  once  inhabited  the 
whole  coast  from  Cape  Farewell  to  the  extreme 
north  point  of  Greenland :  now,  an  unsurveyed  ice 
coast-line  sweeps  around  the  head  of  the  bay,  for  two 
hundred  miles,  being  broken  only  at  a  few  intervals 
by  lofty  capes  —  at  least  such  is  its  appearance  when 
observed  from  the  sea  at  the  distance  of  twenty  miles, 
the  nearest  at  which  ships  are  able  to  approach. 

This  ice  coast-line  is  formed  by  the  edges  of  the 
great  glacier  masses  which  come  slowly  gliding 
down  the  valleys  from  the  icy  reservoir  of  the  inte 
rior,  the  vast  mer  de  glace  of  the  continent.  From 
it  are  discharged  in  this  way  into  the  bay  enormous 
icebergs,  which  clog  it,  and  make  it  what  it  now  is, — 
an  immense,  impenetrable  wilderness,  which  grows 
worse  and  worse,  as  it  chills  the  air  and  extends  into 
the  water  more  and  more  with  the  lapse  of  each 
year  and  century. 

The  idea  of  passing  this  natural  barrier  seemed  to 
Kalutunah  as  absurd  as  a  scheme  for  flying  to  the 
moon  would  appear  to  us.  It  was  a  subject  not 
to  be  seriously  entertained  for  a  moment.  When 
reminded  that  his  forefathers  had  done  it,  he  merely 
replied,  that  then  there  was  much  less  ice  there,  and 
that  they  had  kayaks  (canoes),  and  that  the  journey 
was  performed  in  the  Upernak,  the  midsummer,  or 


ATTEMPTED   BARGAIN.  195 

season  of  thaw.  The  "  Frozen  Sea  "  is  to  his  people 
what  the  tropics  were  to  the  Europeans  before  the 
days  of  De  Gama,  a  place  of  death  and  destruc 
tion  to  all  who  should  have  the  audacity  to  enter 
it.  The  fiery  heat  of  the  equatorial  sun  could  not 
have  been  endued  with  more  imaginary  terrors  than 
those  with  which  the  mind  of  this  hardy  son  of  the 
frost  invested  the  ice-desert  which  lay  bordering  hi» 
hunting-grounds  on  the  south. 

He  laughed  outright  when  it  was  proposed  that  he 
should  sell  to  us  dogs  with  which  to  make  the  jour 
ney.  He  would  not  sell  dogs  for  any  purpose,  or  at 
any  price  ;  and  for  the  best  of  reasons,  namely,  that 
they  had  none  which  they  could  spare.  This  I  did 
not  believe ;  for  there  were  in  the  settlement  more 
dogs  than  the  owners  had  any  possible  use  for,  ex 
cept  to  eat ;  and  with  a  little  additional  exertion, 
they  could  seldom  be  reduced  to  such  an  extremity 
as  to  be  obliged  to  kill  their  teams  for  such  a  pur 
pose.  We  had,  however,  made  up  our  minds  to  p,os- 
sess  ourselves  of  a  team  if  possible ;  for  in  any  case 
it  would  be  found  useful.  "  Would  not  his  people 
sell  us  as  many  dogs  as  we  wanted  if  we  would  give 
them  our  boat,  and  all  the  wood  and  iron  we  had  ?  " 
—  "  No  !  "  —  «  They  could  not  spare  their  dogs ! " 
The  truth  lay  in  quite  another  direction,  and  was 
revealed  by  his  tell-tale  eyes,  which  said  as  plainly 
as  so  many  words,  "  We  are  in  a  fair  way  to  get 
all  we  want  without  troubling  ourselves ; "  and  he 
sucked  in  his  cheeks  in  imitation  of  our  lank  faces, 
and  then  looked  knowingly  at  the  woman,  who  re 
turned  the  salute  with  an  expressive  nod. 

We  were  now  unwillingly  compelled  io  acknovvl- 


196  AN   ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

edge,  as  Petersen  had  told  us  at  first  would  be  the 
case,  that  it  was  idle  to  think  of  making  a  mid 
winter  journey  to  Upernavik ;  and  we  settled  down 
upon  another  scheme  which,  if  it  could  be  carried 
out,  would  accomplish  our  object.  This  was,  to  live 
through  the  winter  by  whatever  means  we  could,  and 
early  in  the  spring  go  to  Cape  York,  carrying  our 
boat  over  the  ice,  and  there  await  the  arrival  of  the 
whaling  fleet  on  their  way  northward.  This  plan  in 
volved  many  risks,  but  nothing  else  appeared  possible 
for  us.  Not  least  among  these  risks  was  the  liability 
to  failure  of  our  stores  ;  and  we  must,  therefore,  pro 
cure  for  ourselves  a  sufficiency  of  food  to  insure  us 
against  starvation  while  our  plans  and  the  means 
of  executing  them  were  maturing.  Accordingly  the 
subject  of  continuing  our  journey  was  dropped,  and 
one  of  more  immediate  importance  was  substituted. 
The  Esquimaux  seemed  to  receive  favorably  the 
proposition  of  going  to  the  ship ;  and  said  that,  at  least 
four  sledges  should  accompany  Petersen,  provided 
we  would  give  to  each  driver  a  fine  knife  and  some 
wood.  To  this  we  readily  agreed ;  and  Petersen 
awaited  only  the  arrival  of  the  morning  to  start. 
To  the  woman  and  her  baby  was  given  a  place  in 
the  corner  ;  and  what  we  now  learned  to  know  as  the 
"  Hosky's  bed "  (the  whalers  nickname  the  natives 
in  the  South,  Hosky)  was  spread  upon  the  floor  for 
the  men.  Hitherto  we  had  tried  to  keep  them  away 
from  our  own  proper  bedding,  on  account  of  certain 
uncompanionable  little  representatives  of  natural  his 
tory  which  roam  in  droves  over  their  persons ;  but 
our  gallantry  was  now  put  to  the  test,  as  it  would 
never  do  to  turn  a  woman  out  upon  the  floor  to 


PREPARATIONS*  FOR  A  JOURNEY.        197 

sleep,  —especially,  since  she  had  done  us  the  honor 
to  come  forty  miles  to  see  us.  We  therefore  sacri 
ficed  a  blanket  to  the  mother  and  her  child,  and 
crowded  away  from  them  as  far  as  our  limited  quar 
ters  would  allow.  The  tongues  which  had  seemed 
never  to  tire  of  running  were  soon  silenced  by  sleep. 

This  sudden,  and  I  may  also  say,  unexpected  as 
sent  to  our  proposition  was  received  with  great  joy 
on  our  part ;  and  preparations  were  at  once  busily 
made  for  getting  Petersen  ready  for  his  hard  journey. 
The  hunters  told  us  what  we  had  scarcely  expected, 
that  the  sea  at  the  north  was  closed,  even  at  Cape 
Alexander ; .  and,  as  if  to  prove  this,  they  stated  that 
a  sledge  had  come  from  the  village  of  Etah,  which 
is  fifteen  miles  northeast  from  that  cape,  bringing 
intelligence  from  Rensselaer  Harbor.  Some  of  the 
people  of  Etah  had  been  to  the  Oomeaksoak.  Our 
comrades  at  the  Advance  were  very  sick,  (and  here 
Kalutunah  laid  his  head  on  his  arm,  and  tried  to 
make  a  sad  face,)  and  Hans  had  had  his  hand  injured 
by  the  explosion  of  a  powder-flask.  The  relation  of 
this  last  incident  convinced  us  that  what  they  said 
was  true,  since  they  could  hardly  cook  up  such  a 
story. 

We  were  aroused  in  the  middle  of  the  night  by 
voices  calling  loudly  down  by  the  beach.  We  were 
used  to  such  sounds  now,  and  upon  going  out  found 
there  the  young  lover  who  had  passed  up  the  coast  a 
few  days  before.  He  was  accompanied  by  a  widow, 
neither  young  nor  beautiful,  one  of  two  women 
who  had  returned  northward  with  Kalutunah  after 
his  first  southern  visit. 

The  new  comers  were  invited  into  the  hut,  and 

17* 


198  AN  AKCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

treated  with  the  consideration  due  to  them  as  guests. 
The  facilities  for  the  display  of  hospitality  in  the 
"  Wanderer's  House,"  as  our  den  was  fitly  called  con 
sidering  who  lived  in  it  and  who  visited  it,  were  poor 
enough.  All  who  came  seemed  to  have  learned 
this,  for  they  brought  their  own  provisions.  The 
widow  carried  in  her  arms  a  load  of  frozen  birds, 
and  the  boy  a  chunk  of  walrus-meat.  They  did 
not  seem  fatigued  nor  cold,  although  they  must  have 
been  exposed  fully  ten  hours ;  and  they  were  scarcely 
seated  before  they  began  to  eat.  They  of  course 
threw  the  hut  into  confusion,  much  to  the  annoy 
ance  of  Petersen,  who  wanted  to  get  some  sleep  pre 
paratory  to  starting;  but  it  was  soon  evident  that 
sleep  was  out  of  "the, question,  for  several  hours  at 
least.  The  woman  with  the  baby  was  asking  ques 
tion  upon  question,  which  the  widow  was  doing  her 
best  to  answer.  The  two  hunters  on  the  floor  were 
sitting  up,  rubbing  their  greasy  eyes,  and  trying  to 
find  space  for  a  few  words ;  while  the  young  lover, 
who  was  a  general  favorite,  was  laughing  and  play 
ing  with  Godfrey,  who  was  indulging  in  some  of 
his  negro  burlesques. 

We  tendered  to  the  widow  the  use  of  our  cook 
ing  apparatus ;  but  she  seemed  disinclined  to  be 
troubled  with  it,  and  the  food  was  eaten  raw.  The 
man,  her  companion,  broke  off  piece  after  piece  o£ 
his  frozen  walrus,  and  the  widow  skinned  and  de: 
voured  her  birds  with  no  less  rapidity.  Four  lumme 
of  respectable  size  disappeared  in  an  astonishingly 
short  space  of  time.  She  very  kindly  offered  to 
share  with  us ;  and,  singling  out  the  astronomer  who 
occupied  the  seat  next  to  her,  she  made  him  the 


THE   WIDOW.  199 

special  object  .of  her  regard,  chewing  up  for  him  a 
large  lump  of  bird  flesh ;  but  Sonntag  was  com 
pelled  to  plead  a  full  stomach.  So  great  a  courtesy 
she  did  not  expect  would  be  declined  under  any  pre 
tence,  and  she  seemed  quite  mortified ;  but  nothing 
daunted,  she  passed  the  lump  over  to  me ;  but  no, 
I  could  not  oblige  her.  With  quite  a  desponding 
face  she  crossed  the  floor  and  tried  Whipple.  Not 
meeting  with  success  in  that  quarter  she  came  back 
to  Mr.  Bonsall,  who  was  already  quite  a  philosopher 
in  making  his  tastes  subservient  to  his  physical 
wants.  "  Now  for  it,  Bonsall !  "  cried  Petersen. 
These  words  of  encouragement  had  the  effect  to 
call  forth -a  hearty  laugh  on  all  sides;  which,  being 
misunderstood  by  the  widow,  sire  hastily  withdrew 
her  offering  of  friendship,  bolted  it  herself,  and  in 
offended  silence  went  on  with  her  work  of  skinning 
birds  and  swallowing  them.  We  all  felt  that  hence 
forth  we  should  have  an  enemy  in  the  widow. 

This  widow  greatly  interested  me.  She  ate  birds 
for  conscience'  sake.  Her  husband's  soul  had  passed 
into  the  body  of  a  walrus  as  a  temporary  habita 
tion,  and  the  Angekok  had  prescribed,  that,  for  a  cer 
tain  period,  she  should  not  eat  the  flesh  of  this  ani 
mal;  and  since  at  this  time  of  year  bear  and  seal 
were  scarce,  she  was  compelled  to  fall  back  upon  a 
small  stock  of  birds  which  had  been  collected  during 
the  previous  summer. 

This  penance  was  of  a  kind  which  every  Esqui 
mau  undergoes  upon  the  death  of  a  near  relation. 
The  Angekok  announces  to  the  mourners  into  what 
animal  the  soul  of  the  departed  has  passed ;  and 
henceforth;  until  the  spirit  has  shifted  its  quarters, 


200  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

they  are  not  to  partake  of  the  flesh  of  that  animal. 
This  may  be  a  bear,  a  seal,  a  walrus,  a  lumme,  a 
burgomaster-gull,  or  any  other  embraced  within  their 
limited  bill  of  fare. 

The  widow  had  one  practice  which,  notwithstand* 
ing  that  it  related  to  the  same  serious  subject,  caused 
us  not  a  little  amusement.  Her  late  husband,  for 
whose  sake  she  refrained  from  eating  walrus,  met 
with  his  death  last  Upernak,  (summer,)  by  being 
carried  out  to  sea  on  a  loose  cake  of  ice  to  which 
he  had  imprudently  gone  to  watch  for  seal.  The 
tide  having  changed,  the  floating  raft  was  disen 
gaged  from  the  land ;  and,  in  full  view  of  his  family 
and  friends,  the  poor  hunter  drifted  out  into  the 
middle  of  Baffin  Bay,  never  to  be  heard  of  more. 
It  happened  that,  during  the  evening,  the  name  of 
this  hunter  was  mentioned  several  times,  always  in 
terms  of  warm  praise,  and  each  time  his  widow 
shed  a  copious  flood  of  tears.  Petersen  told  us  that 
all  strangers  were  expected  to  join  in  this  ceremony. 
Our  first  attempt,  I  fear,  made  a  poor  show  of  sor 
row  ;  but  the  second  was  perfect  of  its  kind.  The 
motions  could  not  have  been  surpassed,  even  had 
the  cause  of  grief  been  a  rich  banker,  and  the 
mourners  his  heirs.  The  tears  were  hardest  to  man 
age  ;  but  a  sufficient  quantity  found  their  way  to 
the  surface  to  satisfy  the  bereaved  one  that  her  grief 
was  appreciated  by  us,  and  she  resumed  her  lively 
manner,  so  far  forgetting  our  former  discourtesy  in 
our  present  respect  for  her  sorrow,  that  she  tried 
again  to  treat  us  to  munched  meat. 

At  length,  to  the  great  joy  of  Petersen,  these  cere 
monies  were  ended  ;  and  when  told  that  we  wished 


DEPARTURE  OF  PETERSEN.          201 

to  sleep,  with  an  instinctive  politeness  which  was  as 
well  appreciated  as  it  was  delicate,  our  savage  guests 
crawled  into  their  respective  places,  and  in  a  few 
moments  the  hut  was  quiet. 

November  3d.  Petersen  was  off  with  the  early 
morn,  under  the  special  charge  of  Kalutunah;  on 
whose  sledge  rode,  also,  the  woman  and  the  baby. 
Godfrey  went  with  him,  and  was  carried  on  the  other 
sledge. 

We  did  not  part  from  Petersen  without  many 
misgivings.  He  has  a  journey  before  him  of  three 
hundred  miles ;  and  he  is  in  the  hands  of  men  in 
whom  we  have  very  little  confidence  ;  yet  the  great 
bribes  that  we  have  offered  may  be  sufficient  to 
purchase  fidelity.  He  carries  a  letter  from  me  to 
Dr.  Kane  informing  him  of  our  condition  and 
wants. 

Godfrey  has  gone  mainly  at  his  own  request,  and 
may  be  of  service.  In  case  the  Esquimaux  should 
fail  to  make  the  promised  journey  to  the  ship,  then 
Petersen  is  to  endeavor  to  purchase  a  team,  and  go 
with  Godfrey  alone.  Failing  this,  he  will  try  to 
make  some  arrangement  by  which  we  can  join  the 
natives  in  the  hunt.  Our  chief  difficulty  is  the  want 
of  dogs,  without  which  the  bears  cannot  be  success 
fully  pursued.  It  has  long  been  one  of  our  schemes 
to  add  our  rifles  to  the  sledge  parties  of  the  Esqui 
maux  for  mutual  aid.  This,  however,  would  involve 
the  giving  up  of  our  purpose  to  go  southward,  and 
the  complete  destruction  of  all  our  equipment ;  for, 
in  order  to  carry  out  such  a  plan,  we  should  be 
obliged  to  abandon  our  hut  and  take  up  our  quar- 


202  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

ters  at  Netlik,  or  at  Northumberland  Island.  Not 
being  able  to  take  with  us  our  boat  or  any  impor 
tant  part  of  our  property,  we  should  be  left  entirely 
dependent  on  the  Esquimaux.  The  means  now  in 
our  hands  for  advancing  or  retreating  must  be  finally 
abandoned,  for  the  moment  we  should  be  out  of  the 
hut  it  would  be  pillaged  and  torn  to  pieces. 

In  consequence  of  a  light  breeze  from  the  south 
the  boy  and  the  widow  remained  with  us.  It  grew 
calm  in  the  afternoon  ;  and  the  moon  being  full,  and 
the  air  clear,  they  could  travel  as  well  by  night  as  by 
day.  They  left  us  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening. 

Mr.  Sonntag  and  John  have  gone  with  them,  carry 
ing  many  presents,  with  the  hope  of  securing  thereby 
a  supply  of  meat,  which  would  not  otherwise  be 
brought  to  us. 

The  weather  is  very  fine,  the  temperature  30°  below 
zero ;  and  everything  looks  promising  except  in  our 
poor  hut.  Stephenson  is  very  sick,  and  I  fear  to 
leave  him  for  an  hour.  The  apartment  has  grown 
cold ;  the  temperature  is  not  above  20°  anywhere ; 
and  at  the  floor  it  is  below  zero. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

PETERSEN. 

OUR  expectations  with  respect  to  our  own  personal 
safety  and  the  success  of  our  Cape  York  project 
were  now  centred  in  Petersen.  If  he  should  fail, 
there  was  no  hope  of  carrying  out,  at  the  opening 
of  spring,  our  recently  formed  resolution.  Our  con 
fidence  in  him  was  great ;  and,  for  my  own  part,  I 
entertained  no  doubt  that  if  the  object  of  his  journey 
could  be  accomplished  through  human  endurance 
and  perseverance,  it  would  be  by  him.  Danger  and 
exposure  had  long  been  familiar  to  him,  and  I  felt 
well  assured  that  one  who  had  never  before  quailed 
would  not  be  found  wanting  now.  For  this  his 
whole  life  was  a  guaranty. 

John  Carl  Christian  Petersen  was  born  in  Copen 
hagen  about  forty-five  years  ago.  Early  in  life  he 
was  apprenticed  to  a  coo.per ;  but  growing  tired  of 
the  restraints  to  which  this  situation  subjected  him, 
he  shipped  on  board  an  Icelandic  packet,  and 
went  in  search  of  freedom  and  fortune. 

Iceland  pleased  him  less  than  Denmark  ;  and,  after 
a  short  stay,  he  returned  home  to  engage  himself  soon 
after  as  cooper  for  the  colony  of  Disco  in  North 
Greenland.  At  Disco  and  the  adjacent  settlements 


204  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

he  lived  during  several  years,  marrying  in  that  time 
a  resident  of  the  country,  who  made  him  an  excellent 
and  devoted  wife,  and  by  whom  he  had  two  children, 
a  girl  and  a  boy. 

While  at  Disco,  he  met  with  a  serious  accident. 
On  "  King  Christian's  day,"  whilst  engaged  in  re 
loading  a  cannon  which  had  been  fired  in  honor  of 
the  occasion,  he  was  badly  injured  by  a  premature 
discharge  of  the  piece.  By  this  misfortune  his  hand 
and  wrist  were  permanently  stiffened  to  such  an  ex 
tent  that  he  was  no  longer  able  to  fulfil  the  duties  of 
his  station.  He  was  therefore  promoted  to  the  post 
of  vice-governor  or  assistant-manager  of  the  settle 
ment  of  Upernavik,  the  most  northern  of  Danish  sta 
tions  in  Greenland.  To  this  place  he  removed  with 
his  family,  and  remained  there  until  1850,  when  Cap 
tain  Penny,  with  the  two  ships  "  Lady  Franklin  " 
and  "  Sophia,"  bound  for  Lancaster  Sound  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Franklin,  came  into  the  harbor  and 
offered  to  the  vice-governor  the  post  of  interpreter. 

Years  of  hard  service  had  not  destroyed  his  love 
of  adventure,  and  the  proffered  appointment  was 
promptly  accepted.  His  qualifications  for  its  duties 
were  good.  He  had  lived  during  nearly  twenty  years 
in  daily  intercourse  with  the  Esquimaux,  and  was 
thoroughly  master  of  their  language.  He  was  known 
on  board  every  whale-ship  that  came  to  Baffin  Bay ; 
and  having  availed  himself  of  the  opportunities 
which  his  visits  to  them  afforded,  he  had  picked  up 
from  time  to  time  a  sufficient  knowledge  of  English 
to  enable  him  to  act,  during  several  years,  as  inter 
preter  between  his  Danish  comrades  and  the  whale 
men. 


PETERSEN.  205 

Those  who  are  familiar  with  the  history  of  the 
search  for  Franklin  are  acquainted  with  the  services 
rendered  by  Petersen  to  the  English  expedition. 
The  fleet  returned  home  in  the  autumn  of  1851,  and 
he  found  his  way  from  London  to  his  native  city, 
and  thence,  during  the  following  summer,  in  the. 
company's  vessel,  to  Upernavik. 

A  few  days  after  he  reached  home,  Captain  In- 
glefield,  R.  N.,  in  the  steamer  Isabella,  put  into  the 
port  of  Upernavik  purposely  to  secure  his  services 
in  the  capacity  in  which  he  had  proved  so  useful. 
Although  gratified  by  this  manifestation  of  the  satis 
faction  which  he  had  given  to  the  Admiralty,  his  em 
ployers  during  the  previous  voyage,  yet,  having  been 
for  two  years  separated  from  his  family,  he  was  un 
willing  so  soon  to  leave  them  again ;  and  the  tempt 
ing  offer  was  declined. 

After  the  lapse  of  a  year,  a  similar  proposal  was 
made  to  him  by  Dr.  Kane,  and  was  accepted.  He 
came  on  board  of  the  Advance  July  24th,  1853.  His 
great  familiarity  with  the  climate  and  the  movements 
of  the  ice,  coupled  with  that  quickness  of  perception 
which  men  often  attain  whose  senses  have  been 
sharpened  by  necessity,  made  him  a  valuable  auxil 
iary  to  our  small  force.  His  services  as  interpreter 
were  often  called  into  requisition  during  our  stay  at 
Rensselaer  Harbor;  and  his  genius  for  tinkering 
served  us  profitably  in  fitting  out  the  sledge  parties, 
The  lamps,  and  other  cooking  apparatus  used  on 
these  occasions,  —  which  were  so  compact  and  sim 
ple,  yet  so  serviceable,  —  were  mainly  of  his  inven 
tion  and  manufacture.  He  was,  moreover,  a  good 
hunter ;  and  he  added,  from  time  to  time,  something 

18 


206  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

to  our  fresh  rations,  either  by  his  gun  or  rifle,  or  from 
his  traps. 

He  accompanied,  the  disastrous  northern  sledge 
party  of  March,  1854,  and  was  in  consequence  for 
a  time  broken  down  by  scurvy  and  rheumatism ; 
and  when  the  autumn  came,  he  was  still  an  invalid. 
Yet,  when  Dr.  Kane  announced  to  the  ship's  com 
pany  his  determination  to  remain  at  Rensselaer  Har 
bor,  there  to  try  the  contingencies  of  another  winter, 
Petersen  was  among  the  first  to  volunteer  to  go  to 
the  south,  and  attempt  to  carry  to  the  nearest  out 
posts  of  the  civilized  world  news  of  the  ill-starred 
fortunes  of  the  Advance. 

When  the  party  whose  history  this  book  records 
was  organized,  he  was  ch*osen  to  pilot  it  through  the 
ice-encumbered  waters. 

Long  accustomed  to  every  phase  of  arctic  life,  the 
various  exigences  of  his  perilous  career  had  made 
him  habitually  cautious ;  but  he  was  brave,  as  well 
as  cool  and  prudent.  I  never  saw  in  him  any  mani 
festation  from  which  it  could  be  inferred  that  he 
knew  the  emotion  of  fear  in  the  face  of  danger.  He 
was  faithful  as  a  friend,  generous  as  a  comrade, 
but  with  somewhat  of  the  persistence  of  a  frontier- 
man's  recollection  of  wrongs  done  to  him.  His 
general  character  ;  his  knowledge  of  the  region  ;  his 
expertness  as  a  boatman,  hunter,  and  traveller;  his 
acquaintance  with  the  Esquimaux  and  their  lan 
guage  ;  and  his  age,  which  was  almost  twice  that  of 
the  oldest  officer  of  the  party,  all  conjoined  to  unite 
our  suffrages  upon  him  as  leader  and  guide.  With 
his  devotion  to  the  interests  of  our  little  party,  for 
which  he  felt  himself  in  a  great  measure  responsible, 


PETEKSEN.  207 

the  reader  is  already  somewhat  familiar.  It  would  be 
impossible,  however,  for  me  to  do  full  justice  to  his 
constant  vigilance,  or  sufficiently  to  thank  him  for  his 
services  in  the  time  of  our  need.  It  is  with  pleasure 
that  I  render  to  him  now  a  portion  of  the  tribute 
which  is  his  due. 

There  were  two  things  in  the  world  which  to  him 
were  the  embodiment  of  all  that  was  good  and 
great :  these  were  his  native  land  arid  his  boy.  Den 
mark  represented  all  that  could  be  possibly  wished 
for  in  a  country  or  a  government,  and  Paul  every 
virtue  possible  in  a  son.  Hour  after  hour,  during  the 
long  winter  nights,  have  I  listened  to  his  descriptions 
of  the  -beauties  of  Copenhagen,  the  independent 
habits  of  King  Frederick,  the  noble  virtues  of  King 
Christian,  and  the  glorious  memories  of  his  race 
and  people.  Many  a  long  walk  over  desolate  plains 
of  ice  and  snow  has  been  enlivened  by  his  eulo 
gies  of  the  gallantry,  intelligence,  and  beauty  of  his 
child. 

Such  was  the  man  upon  whom  our  faith  rested  in 
the  crisis  the  issue  of  which  we  were  awaiting.* 

.*  Since  the  above  was  written  Mr.  Petersen  has  returned  from  a  third 
Arctic  voyage, —  he  having  accompanied,  as  interpreter,  the  late  expedi 
tion  of  Captain  M'Clintock. 


CHAPTER  XXL 

INTERCOURSE     WITH     THE     ESQUIMAUX. 

THE  three  days  which  followed  the  departure  of 
one  half  of  our  number  were  the  most  gloomy  and 
uncomfortable  that  we  had  yet  experienced.  As 
already*,  observed,  the  thermometer  sank  suddenly 
with  the  diminished  sources  of  heat,  and  the  mean 
temperature  of  the  apartment  was  reduced  nearly 
to  zero.  The  walls  and  roof  became  more  thickly 
coated  with  frost  and  ice  ;  and  by  the  feeble  glim 
mer  of  the  lamp  we  could  see  dense  clouds  of  vapor 
streaming  from  our  mouths  and  nostrils.  We  could 
not  expose  ourselves  outside  of  our  blankets  with 
out  mittens  on  our  hands,  fur  stockings  on  our  feet,, 
and  all  the  clothing  on  our  bodies  which  would  be 
required  for  our  out-door  work. 

Our  previous  routine  of  duties  continued  to  mark 
the  progress  of  the  days  ;  and  the  same  fortune 
attended  them.  The  traps  were  always  empty ; 
and  we  found  little  moss.  The  meat  which  we  had 
obtained  from  the  Esquimaux  was  nearly  all  con 
sumed  when  Petersen  left  us ;  and  we  had  only 
a  mere  mouthful  for  each  of  our  two  daily  meals. 
Once  more  we  were  relying  upon  the  stone-moss; 
and  were,  in  consequence,  growing  again  weak  and 


VALUE  OF  BOOKS.  209 

sickly.  The  hours  hung  wearily  on  our  hands. 
Our  usual  joint  resources  failed  us.  With  our  mit- 
tened  fingers  we  could  not  manage  the  cards  which 
had,  heretofore,  been  one  of  our  sure  means  of  di 
version.  The  circumstances  were  too  depressing  for 
us  to  feel  our  ordinary  interest  in  reading  aloud,  or 
in  listening  ;  and  the  time  was  passed  mostly  in 
silence.  Yet  never  had  I  appreciated  the  value  of 
books  as  I  then  did.  Bonsall's  copy  of  "  Waverley* 
was  an  unfailing  friend.  Upon  leaving  the  brig  I 
had  selected  from  the  narrow  shelf  which  held  the 
little  library  that  I  had  learned  to  love  so  well  dur 
ing  the  last  long  winter,  three  small  books,  which  I 
thrust  into  my  already  crowded  clothes-bag.  They 
were  the  before-mentioned  volume  of  Dickens,  the 
"  In  Memoriam,"  and  a  small  pocket-Bible  •  all  part 
ing  gifts  from  kind  friends  to  me  when^  leaving 
home ;  and  all  doubly  precious,  —  for  themselves, 
and  for  the  memories  which  they  recalled.  They  had 
become  thoroughly  water-soaked  when  the  Ironsides 
filled  off  Cape  Alexander ;  but  I  had  dried  them  in 
the  sun;  and  although  they  were  torn,  and  their 
backs  were  loose,  there  was  no  part  lost.  I  kept 
them  under  my  head  as  helps  for  a  pillow,  and  for 
their  companionship. 

I  had  brought,  beside,  two  volumes  of  "  Anat 
omy  "  and  one  of  "  Practice,"  as  the  most  conven 
ient  form  in  which  to  carry  waste  paper  for  lighting 
fires.  Nearly  all  of  the  "  Anatomy  "  had  been  con 
sumed  during  the  journey  down  the  coast ;  but  I 
had  saved  the  "  nerves  "  and  the  "  muscles  ; "  and, 
in  retracing  the  ramifications  of  the  one,  and  the 
attachments  of  the  other,  I  passed  cheerfully  many 

18* 


210  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

an  hour  that  would  otherwise  have  weighed  heavily 
upon  me.  The  "  Practice  "  was  now  being  fast  sac 
rificed  ;  but  I  got  a  start  of  the  cooks,  and  kept 
ahead  of  them. 

My  great  luxury  during  all  this  time  was  a  short 
clay  pipe,  which  I  smoked  almost  continually.  I 
had  learned  so  to  do,  in  self-defence,  early  in  the 
cruise ;  for,  without  smoking  myself,  I  found  it  al 
most  impossible  to  bear  the  atmosphere  of  our  tents 
or  snow-houses ;  and  being  unwilling  to  occasion 
any  feeling  of  restraint  among  my  companions,  I 
fought  through  the  preliminary  sickness,  and  could 
now  smoke  crumbled  "  pig-tail"  with  the  veriest  tar 
on  earth. 

On  the  evening  of  the  sixth  of  November,  Mr. 
Sonntag  and  John  came  back  to  us.  Their  arrival 
was  most  opportune,  for  we  had  eaten  every  ounce 
of  meat  which  was  on  hand  when  they  left  us.  They 
were  brought  by  two  Esquimaux,  whose  sledges 
carried  a  supply  of  food  sufficient  to  last  us  for 
several  days.  They  had  a  part  of  two  bears'  legs, 
several  other  small  pieces  of  meat,  and  a  bear's  liver. 
This  last  the  Esquimaux  will  not  eat,  but  we  were 
glad  enough  to  get  it.  There  were,  besides,  some 
pieces  of  blubber,  about  two  dozens  of  lumme  and 
burgomaster-gulls,  and  as  many  dried  auks.  All 
this  provision  had  been  purchased  for  fifty  needles 
and  a  sheath-knife,  —  a  small  price  where  these 
implements  are  abundant,  but  an  exorbitant  one 'in 
the  estimation  of  our  Esquimaux.  These  native 
friends  were  getting  to  be  very  Jews  in  their  bar 
gainings.  Heaven  knows  we  did  not  grudge  the 
poor  creatures  the  few  paltry  things  of  which  they 


RETURN  OF  MR.   SONNTAfc.  211 

stand  so  much  in  need ;  but,  with  us,  the  case  was 
one  of  life  and  death ;  and,  by  keeping  up  the  price, 
we  prevented  the  market  from  being  overstocked. 
A  needle  was  worth  to  them  more  than  a  hundred 
times  its  weight  in  gold.  Ours  had  become  quite 
notorious,  and  by  this  time  every  woman  in  the 
tribe  had  at  least  one  of  them.  Some  of  the 
women  had  nearly  a  dozen  api6ce.  They  were  a 
wonderful  improvement  over  the  coarse  bone  in 
struments  which  they  had  hitherto  used. 

Mr.  Sonntag  and  John  had  a  hard  journey.  The 
track  was  rough.  High  ridges  of  hummocked  ice 
lay  across  the  mouth  of  Wolstenholme  Sound,  and 
through'  these  they  were  compelled  to  '  pick  a  tor 
tuous*  passage.  On  their  way  down  they-  were 
obliged  to  walk  a  large  portion  of  the  time,  because 
partly  of  the  roughness  of  the  road,  and  partly  of 
the  fact  that  there  were  four  persons  to  one  sledge. 
They  were  quartered  in  a  double  hut,  one  in  each 
division  of  it,  and  were  treated  with  great  kindness 
and  civility.  They  returned  to  us  looking  hale  and 
hearty,  and  made  our  mouths  fairly  water  with 
glowing  descriptions  of  unstinted  feasts.  They  had 
been  living  on  the  fat  of  the  land,  —  upon  bear,  fox, 
and  puppy,  the  best  dishes  in  the  Esquimau  larder 
at  this  time  of  year.  Yet  food  was  scarce  at  Akbat, 
and  hence  they  brought  little. 

The  hunters,  who  returned  with  them,  remained 
with  us  during  the  night ;  and  next  morning,  after 
having  received  a  few  trifling  presents,  they  started 
off  to  the  westward  to  hunt.  I  asked  them  to  take 
Mr.  Bonsall  and  myself,  to  aid  them  with  our 
guns,  but  they  refused  us.  They  were  going  in 


212  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

pursuit  of  the  bear,  and  must  have  their  sledges  as 
light  as  possible. 

I  went  down  with  them  to  the  beach  when  they 
started,  and  I  thus  obtained  a  better  opportunity 
than  I  had  hitherto  enjoyed  of  examining  the  travel 
ling  gear  and  hunting  equipment  of  this  singular 
people. 

First,  were  the  dogs.  These  were  picketed,  each 
team  separately,  on  a  level  space  between  the  pile 
of  rocks  below  our  tent  and  the  shore ;  and  as  we 
approached  them  from  above,  they  sprang  up  from 
the  knotted  heap  in  which  they  had  been  lying 
through  the  night,  and  greeted  us  with  a  wild, 
savage  yell,  which  died  away  into  a  low  whine  and 
impatient  snarl.  They  evidently  wanted  their  break 
fast,  and  it  seemed  to  be  their  masters'  intention  to 
gratify  them  ;  for,  going  to  their  sledges,  each  one 
brought  up  a  flat  piece  of  something  which  looked 
more  like  plate-iron  than  anything  else ;  but  which, 
upon  examination,  I  found  to  be  walrus  hide.  It  was 
three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  and  was  frozen  in 
tensely  hard.  Throwing  it  upon  the  snow  a  few 
feet  in  advance  of  their  respective  teams,  they  drew 
their  knives  from  their  boots  and  attempted  to  cut 
the  skin  into  pieces  ;  but  the  frost  had  been  more 
severe  than  they  had  counted  on,  and  the  dogs 
seemed  likely  to  come  off  badly,  when,  discovering 
the  dilemma,  I  ran  up  for  our  hatchet  and  saw. 
With  the  aid  of  these  instruments  they  reduced  the 
skin  to  fragments,  which  were  scattered  among  the 
teams,  to  be  scrambled  for  with  a  greedy  ferocity 
quite  characteristic  of  an  Esquimau  dog. 

During  the  ten  minutes  occupied  with  this  opera- 


ESQUIMAU  DOGS.  213 

tion  the  animals  had  become  almost  frantic.  They 
tried  hard  to  break  loose  ;  pulling  on  their  traces, 
running  back  and  springing  forward,  straining  and 
choking  themselves  until  their  eyes  glared  and  the 
foam  flew  from  their  mouths.  I  remembered  my  ex 
perience  with  two  such  teams  four  weeks  before, 
and  once  more  congratulated  myself  upon  having 
escaped  their  wolfish  fangs.  The  sight  of  food  had 
loosened  their  wild  passions,  and  they  seemed  to  be 
ready  to  eat  each  other.  Not  a  moment  passed  that 
two  or  more  of  then?  were  not  flying  at  each  other's 
throats,  and,  clinched  together,  rolling,  tossing,  and 
tumbling  over  the  snow.  The  masters  seemed  quite 
unconcerned,  except  when  one  of  them  would  ap 
pear  to  be  in  danger  of  being  injured,  when  an  angry, 
nasal  "  Ay !  Ay !  "  would  for  a  moment  restore  dis 
cipline.  A  more  fierce  exhibition  of  animal  passion 
I  think  I  never  saw.  When  at  length  the  food  was 
thrown  to  them,  they  uttered  a  greedy  scream, 
which  was  followed  by  an  instant  of  silence  while 
the  pieces  were  falling,  then  by  a  scuffle,  and  the 
hard  stony  chunks  were  gone.  How  they  were  swal 
lowed  or  digested  was  to  me  inexplicable.  The  an 
imals  now  became  gentle  enough,  and  lay  quietly 
down. 

The  Esquimau  dog  is  of  medium  size,  squarely 
built  ;  and,  as  was  observed  in  a  former  chapter,  is 
a  reclaimed  wolf,  and  exhibits  the  variety  of  color 
which,  after  a  few  generations,  generally  characterizes 
tame  animals.  Gray  is  often  seen,  and  it  was  proba 
bly  once  the  prevailing  color.  Some  of  the  dogs  are 
black,  with  white  breasts  ;  some  are  entirely  white  ; 
others  are  reddish  or  yellowish  ;  and  indeed,  there 


214          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

may  be  seen  among  them  almost  every  shade.  Their 
skin  is  covered  with  coarse,  compact  fur,  and  is 
greatly  prized  by  the  natives  for  clothing.  There 
is  much  variety  in  form,  but  the  general  type  has 
a  pointed  nose,  short  ears,  a  cowardly,  treacherous 
eye,  and  a  hanging  tail.  To  this  there  are  some 
exceptions ;  and  most  striking  among  those  that  I 
have  seen,  was  a  specimen  brought  home  by  Dr. 
Kane. 

This  dog,  named  by  the  sailors  "  Toodlamik," 
shortened  into  "  Toodla,"  was  taken  from  Uper- 
navik,  and  survived  all  the  disasters  of  the  cruise  to 
fall,  at  last,  a  victim  to  a  Philadelphia  summer. 
His  skin,  stuffed  and  set  up  with  lifelike  expression, 
now  graces  the  gallery  of  the  excellent  museum  of 
the  Philadelphia  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences.  He 
differed  from  his  kind  in  having  a  more  compact 
head,  a  less  pointed  nose,  an  eye  denoting  affection 
and  reliance,  and  an  erect,  bold,  fearless  carriage. 
I  must  express  a  doubt,  however,  as  to  his  purity  of 
blood.  From  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  the  cruise, 
he  was  master  of  all  the  dogs  that  were  brought  to 
the  ship.  In  this  connection  it  is  worthy  of  remark, 
that,  in  every  pack,  there  is  one  who  is  master  of  the 
whole,  —  a  sort  of  Major-General ;  and  in  each  team, 
one  who  is  master  of  his  comrades,  —  a  General  of 
Brigade.  Once  master,  always  master  ;  but  the 
post  of  honor  is  gained  at  the  expense  of  many  a 
lame  leg  and  ghastly  wound,  and  is  only  held  by 
daily  doing  battle  with  rivals.  These  could  easily 
gain  the  ascendency  in  every  case,  but  for  their 
own  petty  jealousies,  which  often  prevent  their 
union  for  such  a  purpose.  If  a  combination  does 


DESCRIPTION  OF  A  SLEDGE.  215 

take  place  and  the  leader  is  hopelessly  beaten,  he 
is  never  worth  anything  afterward  ;  his  spirit  is 
gone  forever,  and  the  poor  fellow  pines  away  and 
finally  dies  of  a  broken  heart. 

Toodla  was  a  character  in  his  way.  He  was  a 
tyrant  of  no  mean  pretension.  He  seemed  to  con 
sider  it  his  especial  duty  to  trounce  every  dog,  great 
or  small  that  was  added  to  our  pack,  —  if  the  animal 
was  a  large  one,  in  order,  probably,  that  he  might  afc 
once  be  made  aware  that  he  had  a  master;  if  a 
small  one,  in  order  that  the  others  might  hold  him  in 
the  greater  awe.  It  was  sometimes  quite  amusing 
to  see  him  leave  the  ship's  side,  in  pursuit  of  a 
strange  dog,  his  head  erect,  his  tail  gracefully  curled 
over  his  back,  going  slowly  and  deliberately  at  his 
mark,  with  the  confident,  defiant  air  of  one  who 
feels  his  power  and  the  importance  of  his  office. 
There  were  often  combinations  against  him,  no 
doubt  induced  by  the  very  desperate  nature  of  the 
circumstances  ;  but  he  always  succeeded  in  breaking 
the  cabal ;  not,  however,  I  am  bound  to  say,  al 
ways  without  assistance ;  for  the  sailors,  who  were 
very  fond  of  him,  sometimes  took  his  part,  when  he 
was  unusually  hard  pressed.  A  brave  dog  was 
Toodla ! 

Leaving  the  dogs,  we  went  to  the  sledges  to 
get  them  ready  for  starting.  While  the  preparations 
were  being  made,  I  examined  one  of  them  minutely. 
It  was,  almost  without  exception,  the  most  ingen 
iously  contrived  specimen  of  the  mechanic  art  that  I 
have  ever  seen.  It  was  made  wholly  of  bone  and 
leather.  The  runners,  which  were  square  behind 
and  rounded  upward  in  front,  and  about  five  feet 


216  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

long,  seven  inches  high,  and  three  fourths  of  an  inch 
thick,  were  slabs  of  bone ;  not  solid,  but  composed 
of  a  number  of  pieces,  of  various  shapes  and  sizes, 
cunningly  fitted  and  tightly  lashed  together.  Some 
of  these  were  not  larger  than  one's  two  fingers ; 
some  were  three  or  four  inches  square ;  others  were 
triangular,  the  size  of  one's  hand  ;  while  others,  again, 
were  several  inches  long  and  two  or  three  broad. 
These  pieces  were  all  fitted  together  as  neatly  as  the 
blocks  of  a  Chinese  puzzle.  Near  their  margins 
were  rows  of  little  holes,  through  which  were  run 
strings  of  seal-skins,  by  which  the  blocks  were  fast 
ened  together,  making  a  slab  almost  as  firm  as  a 
board. 

These  bones  are  flattened  and  cut  into  the  re 
quired  shape  with  stones.  The  grinding  needed  to 
make  a  single  runner  must  be  a  work  of  months; 
but  the  construction  of  an  entire  new  sledge,  I  was 
afterwards  informed,  was  unheard  of  in  the  present 
generation.  Repairs  are  made  as  any  part  becomes 
broken  or  decayed  ;  but  a  vehicle  of  this  kind  is  a 
family  heirloom,  and  is  handed  down  from  genera 
tion  to  generation.  The  origin  of  some  of  the 
Esquimau  sledges  dates  back  beyond  tradition. 

Upon  turning  over  the  specimen  before  me,  I  found 
that  the  runners  were  shod  with  ivory  from  the 
tusk  of  the  walrus.  This"  also  had  been  ground 
flat  and  its  corners  squared  with  stones;  and  it 
was  fastened  to  the  runner  by  a  string  which  was 
looped  through  two  counter-sunk  holes.  This  sole 
was  composed  of  a  number  of  pieces,  but  the  sur 
face  was  uniform  and  as  smooth  as  glass. 

The   runners   stood  about  fourteen  inches  apart, 


PROVISION  FOR  A  JOURNEY.  217 

and  were  fastened  together  by  bones,  tightly  lashed 
to  them.  These  cross  pieces  were  the  femur  of  the 
bear,  the  antlers  of  the  reindeer,  and  the  ribs  of  the 
narwhal.  Two  walrus  ribs  were  lashed,  one  to  the 
after -end  of  each  runner,  for  upstanders,  and  were 
braced  by  a  piece  of  reindeer  antler,  secured  across 
the  top. 

On  this  rude  yet  complicated  and  difficult  contriv 
ance  was  to  be  stowed  an  equally  rude  equipment. 
This,  such  as  it  was,  had  been  placed  under  our 
boat,  in  security  against  the  dogs  in  case  they  should 
gnaw  themselves  loose  during  the  night.  First,  one 
of  the  hunters  drew  out  a  piece  of  seal-skin,  which 
he  spread  over  the  sledge,  and  fastened  tightly  by 
little  strings  attached  to  its  margin.  On  this  he 
placed  a  small  piece  of  walrus  skin,  (another  meal 
for  the  dogs,)  a  piece  of  blubber,  and  another  of 
meat.  This  last  was  his  lunch  ;  and,  although  he 
was  bound  upon  a  hunt  which  might  last  during 
several  days,  it  was  all  that  he  would  get  until  he 
should  capture  fresh  provision.  If  this  good  fortune 
should  not  happen  to  him,  he  would  not  return  home 
until  on  the  eve  of  starving. 

During  his  absence  he  would  not  cook  any  food ; 
but  he  would  want  water.  He  therefore  carried  a 
small  stone  dish  which  was  his  "  kotluk  "  or  lamp, 
a  lump  of  "  mannek  "  or  dried  moss,  to  be  used  for 
wick,  and  some  willow  blossoms  (na-owinak)  for  tin 
der.  These  last  were  carefully  wrapped  up  in  a 
bird-skin  to  keep  them  dry.  He  had  also  a  piece 
of  iron-stone  (ujarak-saviminilik)  and  a  small  sharp 
fragment  of  flint.  These  were  his  means  for  strik 
ing  a  spark. 

19 


218  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

Let  us  follow  him  in  his  future  proceedings:  h< 
grows  thirsty ;  he  will  halt,  scrape  away  the  snov 
until  he  comes  down  to  the  solid  ice,  in  which  hi 
will  scoop  a  small  cavity.  Then  he  will  get  a  bloc! 
of  fresh  ice  from  a  neighboring  berg,  and,  starting 
his  lamp,  (using  the  blubber  for  fuel,)  he  will  placi 
this  block  close  beside  the  flame,  having  previously 
set  the  lamp  beside  the  cavity.  It  is  a  slow  oper 
ation ;  but  by  and  by  the  water  will  begin  to  trickL 
down  into  the  hole,  and  when  he  thinks  there  i 
enough  melted  to  satisfy  his  thirst,  he  will  remov< 
the  fixtures,  and,  kneeling  down,  will  drink  the  soot 
stained  fluid.  If  he  grows  hungry  he  will  break  ofl 
some  chips  from  his  lump  of  frozen  walrus-beef,  aru 
cut  a  few  slices  from  the  blubber,  and  make  of  thesi 
his  uncooked  meal ;  but  he  will  not  have  any  fire  t< 
warm  himself.  No  people  in  the  world  have  less  oi 
this  than  these  children  of  the  ice-deserts. 

Each  of  our  visitors  carries  with  him  an  extn 
pair  of  boots,  another  of  stockings,  (dog-skin,)  am 
another  of  mittens.  These  he  will  use  if  he  shouk 
have  the  misfortune  to  get  on  thin  ice  and  breal 
through. 

Having  placed*  all  the  above-mentioned  article; 
upon  the  sledge,  the  owner  threw  over  them  a  piec< 
of  bear-skin,  which  was  doubled  so  that  when  openec 
it  would  be  just  large  enough  to  keep  his  body  fron 
the  snow,  if  he  should  wish  to  lie  down  to  rest.  H< 
then  drew  out  a  long  line,  fastened  one  end  of  i 
through  a  hole  in  the  forward  part  of  one  of  the  run 
ners,  ran  it  across  diagonally  to  the  opposite  runner 
passed  it  through  a  hole  there,  and  so  on  to  and  fro 
from  side  to  side,  until  he  reached  the  other  end  of 


DOG  HARNESS.  219 

the  sledge,  where  the  line  was  made  fast,  and  the 
cargo  was  thus  secured  against  all  danger  of  loss  by 
an  upset.  He  then  hung  to  one  upstander  a  coil  of 
heavy  line,  and  to  the  other  a  lighter  one  ;  and  tied 
them  fast  with  a  small  string.  The  former  of  these 
coils  was  his  harpoon  line  for  catching  walrus,  the 
latter,  that  for  catching  seal.  His  harpoon  staff  was 
a  heavy  piece  of  ivory,  —  the  horn,  or  rather  tooth, 
of  the  narwhal.  It  was  five  feet  long,  two  inches  in 
diameter  at  one  end,  tapering  to  a  point  at  the 
other. 

All  being  ready,  the  dogs,  seven  in  number,  were 
next  brought  up,  led  by  their  traces.  The  harness 
on  them  was  no  less  simple  than  the  cargo  they  had 
to  draw.  It  consisted  of  two  doubled  strips  of  bear 
skin,  one  of  which  was  placed  on  either  side  of  the 
body  of  the  animal,  the  two  being  fastened  together 
on  the  top  of  the  neck  and  at  the  breast,  thus  form 
ing  a  collar.  Thence  they  passed  inside  of  the  dog's 
fore-legs,  and  up  along  the  sides  to  the  rurnp,  where 
the  four  ends  meeting  together  were  fastened  to  a 
trace  eighteen  feet  in  length.  This  was  connected 
with  the  sledge  by  a  line  four  feet  long,  the  ends  of 
which  were  attached  one  to  each  runner.  To  the 
middle  of  this  line  was  tied  a  strong  string  which 
was  run  through  bone  rings  at  the  ends  of  the  traces, 
and  secured  by  a  slipknot,  easily  untied.  This  ar 
rangement  was  to  insure  safety  in  bear-hunting. 
The  bear  is  chased  until  the  sledge  is  within  fifty 
yards  of  the  prey,  when  the  hunter  leans  forward 
and  slips  the  knot,  an^l  the  dogs,  now  loose  from 
the  sledge,  quickly  bring  the  bear  to  bay.  Serious 
accidents  sometimes  happen  in  consequence  of  the 


220  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

knot  getting  foul.  The  hunter  tries  in  vain  to  untie 
it,  and  before  he  can  draw  his  knife  and  cut  it,  (if 
indeed  he  should  be  fortunate  enough  to  have  a 
knife,)  man,  dogs,  sledge  and  all  are  among  the 
bear's  legs,  tangled  inextricably,  and  at  the  mercy 
of  the  infuriated  monster. 

The  dogs  were  cold  and  eager  to  be  off.  They 
were  hitched  to  the  sledge  in  a  moment ;  the  hunter 
with  his  right  hand  threw  out  the  coils  of  his  long 
whiplash,  with  his  left  he  seized  an  upstander,  and 
pushing  the  sledge  forward  a  few  paces,  he  at  the 
same  moment  shrilly  sounded  the  familiar  starting- 
cry  «  Ka !  Ka ! "  —  «  Ka !  Ka ! "  which  sent  the  dogs 
bounding  to  their  places,  and  dashing  down  over  the 
rough  ice-foot.  The  hunter  guided  his  sledge  among 
the  hummocks,  restraining  the  impetuosity  of  his 
team  with  the  nasal  "  Ay !  Ay ! "  which  they  well 
understand.  Having  reached  the  smooth  ice,  he 
dropped  upon  the  sledge,  let  fall  his  whiplash  upon 
the  snow  to  trail  after  him,  shouted  "  Ka  !  Ka  !  "  — 
"  Ka !  Ka ! "  to  his  wolfish  team,  and  was  off  at  a 
wild  gallop. 

I  watched  the  sledges  from  the  rocks  below  the 
hut  until  I  grew  cold.  They  moved  gracefully  over 
the  heavy  drifts,  and  wound  skilfully  among  the 
hummocks.  Sometimes  they  were  lost  to  view  for 
a  moment  in  a  valley  or  behind  a  wall  of  broken  ice. 
At  length  they  appeared  only  as  dark  specks  upon 
the  white  horizon.  Even  when  they  were  almost 
lost  to  sight,  a  cheerful  voice  reached  me  through  the 
clear  air;  and  as  I  turned  away,  "  Ka!  Ka!"  — 
n  Ka !  Ka !  "  rung  in  my  ears.  —  Happy,  care-defying 
creatures ! 


HAPPINESS.  221 

I  dropped  through  the  door  of  our  wretched  hut ; 
crawled  through  the  dark  passage  and  rolled  myself 
up  in  my  blankets  to  get  warm  ;  half  wishing,  all  the 
while,  that  I  were  a  savage ;  and  thinking  for  the 
moment  how  happy  I  would  be  to  exchange  places 
with  the  men  whom  I  had  just  watched.  They 
were  going  out  into  the  desert,  laughing  at  and 
defying  cold,  wind,  and  storm ;  caring  for  nothing, 
lamenting  nothing,  fearing  nothing;  in  their  own 
minds,  creatures  of  a  predetermined  fate 


id* 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

FAILURE    OF    OUR   PLANS. 

THE  Esquimaux  left  us  at  eight  o'clock  in  the 
morning ;  at  one  in  the  afternoon  we  had  made  the 
round  of  the  traps  and  were  all  again  assembled  to 
gether.  Visiting  the  traps  had  by  this  time  become 
almost  a  merely  mechanical  operation,  performed 
with  only  a  vague  hope  that  something  .night  possi 
bly  be  found ;  and  it  was  useful  chiefly  for  exercise. 
So  accustomed  had  we  become  to  disappointment, 
that  we  went  from  trap  to  trap,  re-baiting  and  re-set 
ting,  and  often  re-constructing  them,  as  if  it  were  a 
part  of  our  duty  to  do  these  things  for  their  own 
sake,  without  expectation  of  reward. 

To-day  Mr.  Sonntag  and  John  rested.  Whipple 
was  still  unwell,  and  did  not  venture  out.  Stephen- 
son  had  recovered  from  his  late  attack  of  sickness, 
and  was  able  to  sit  up,  but  not  to  go  abroad.  This 
left  now  upon  the  active  list  only  Mr.  Bonsall  and 
myself.  Bonsall  visited  the  north  and  I  the  south 
traps  with  the  usual  fortune. 

Upon  our  return,  a  cheerful  cup  of  coffee  with 
some  tender  steaks  of  young  bear's  meat,  tempo 
rarily  dispelled  the  gloom  which  had  for  several  days 
reigned  in  our  hut.  The  temperature  of  the  apart- 


EETURN   OF  MR.  PETERSEJ?.  223 

ment  came  up  to  the  freezing-point ;  and  we  were  in 
the  midst  of  a  joyous  feast,  talking  cheerfully  of  our 
future  prospects,  and  looking  hopefully  to  the  time 
at  which  our  absent  comrades  should  come  back  to 
us,  with  the  wished-for  relief,  when  we  were  startled 
by  the  unmistakable  crunch  of  human  footsteps  upon 
the  snow, 

We  listened.  A  slow  and  measured  tread,  which 
was  unaccompanied  by  any  other  sound,  told  us  that 
some  one  was  approaching.  Who  could  it  be  ? 
The  Esquimaux  did  not  so  come.  Their  voices 
always  first  announced  their  presence.  I  looked 
around  upon  the  faces  of  my  companions,  and  read 
there  a  confirmation  of  my  own  fearful  suspicion,  — 
«  It  must  be  Petersen  ! " 

Yet  it  might  not  be ;  and,  willing  to  catch  at  the 
faintest  ray  of  hope,  I  hailed  in  Esquimau,  "  Kina  ?  " 
— «Kina-una?"  («  Who?  —  Who's  there?")  There 
was  no  answer  save  the  solemn  footfall. 

The  man,  whoever  it  was,  halted  close  to  the  hut. 
A  moment,  and  the  sharp  creak  of  the  canvas  cover 
over  the  doorway  was  heard  ;  then  the  man  dropped 
through  the  orifice,  uttering  a  deep  moan.  I  opened 
the  door  ;  and  there  in  the  dimly  lighted  passage  lay 
Petersen.  He  crawled  slowly  in  ;  and,  staggering 
across  the  hut,  sank  exhausted  on  the  breck.  God 
frey  was  only  a  few  paces  behind  him,  and  came  in 
immediately  afterward,  even  more  broken.  Their 
first  utterance  was  a  cry  for  "  water !  —  water  !  " 

I  asked  Petersen,  "  Are  you  frozen  ?  "  —  "  No  ! "  — 
«  Godfrey  are  you  ?"  —  «  No!  but  dreadful  cold,  and 
almost  dead."  Poor  fellow  !  he  looked  so. 

They  were  in  no  condition  to  answer  questions  \ 


224  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

but  they  rather  needed  our  immediate  good  offices. 
Their  clothing  was  stiff,  and  in  front,  was  coated 
with  ice.  From  their  beards  hung  great  lumps  of  it  j 
and  their  hair,  eyebrows,  and  eyelashes  were  white 
with  the  condensed  moisture  of  their  breath.  We 
aided  them  in  stripping  off  their  frozen  garments ; 
and  then  rolled  them  up  in  their  blankets. 

Long  exposure  to  the  intense  cold,  fatigue,  and 
hunger,  had  benumbed  their  sensibilities  ;  and  with 
the  reaction  which  followed  came  a  correspond 
ing  excitement.  We  gave  them  to  drink  of  our 
hot  coffee,  and  this  combined  with  the  warmth  of 
the  hut  soon  revived  them ;  but  the  violence  of 
the  change  produced  a  temporary  bewilderment  of 
mind,  and  the  sleep  which  followed  was  troubled  and 
restless.  Their  frequent  starts,  groans,  cries,  and 
mutter  ings,  told  of  the  fearful  dreams  of  cold, 
starvation,  thirst,  and  murder  by  which  they  were 
distressed. 

It  was  not  until  the  following  morning  that  we 
obtained  the  full  particulars  of  their  journey ;  but 
Petersen  told  us,  while  he  drank  his  coffee,  what  it 
was  necessary  that  we  should  know  at  once.-  They 
had  walked  all  the  way  from  Netlik,  where  an  at 
tempt  had  been  made  to  murder  them.  The  Esqui 
maux  were  in  pursuit,  and  if  not  watched  would 
attack  our  hut. 

So  the  Esquimaux  had  at  length  shown  their 
colors  !  Growing  impatient,  they  had  resolved  upon 
getting  possession  of  our  property  by  the  shortest 
means.  What  could  be  their  scheme  ?  They  would 
surely  not  venture  to  attack  eight  of  us,  armed  as 
they  knew  we  were  with  guns;  yet  it  was  impossible 


KEEPING  GUARD.  225 

for  us  to  know  how  numerous  they  were,  or  how  much 
they  might  rely  upon  their  superiority  in  this  respect. 
The  idea  at  once  suggested  itself,  that,  with  a  com 
bination  of  forty  or  fifty  persons,  and  an  effort  well 
directed,  they  might  surprise  us ;  and,  dashing  in  a 
body  from  the  rocks  above  upon  the  slender  roof  of 
our  hut,  they  might  bury  us  beneath  the  ruins,  and 
harpoon  us  if  we  should  attempt  to  escape.  We 
did  not  fear  a  direct  attack. 

A  watch  was  accordingly  set  and  kept  up  during 
the  night.  The  sentinel  was  armed  with  Bonsall's 
rifle,  and  was  relieved  every  hour.  The  remainder 
of  our  fire-arms  were  hung  upon  their  usual  pegs, 
in  the  passage,  having  been  previously  discharged 
and  carefully  reloaded.  The  iron  boat  was  drawn 
up  in  front  of  the  hut. 

The  night  wore  away.  Mr.  Petersen  and  God 
frey  awoke,  ate  again,  and  fell  back  into  their 
sleep.  The  sentry  marched  to  and  fro  along  the 
level  plain,  a  few  rods  to  the  eastward  of  the  hut ; 
and  the  creak,  creak  of  his  footsteps  wras  distinctly 
heard  as  he  trod  over  the  frozen  snow.  Inside 
the  hut  all  was  quiet,  save  now  and  then  a  low 
whisper,  the  heavy  breathing  and  occasional  de 
lirious  outcries  of  the  returned  travellers,  and  the 
noise  made  by  the  periodical  changing  of  the 
watch.  Scarcely  an  eye  except  those  of  Petersen 
and  Godfrey  was  closed  in  sleep.  We  were  all 
too  busy  with  our  thoughts,  and  too  much  agi 
tated  by  our  anxieties. 

As  I  took  my  turn  at  the  sentry's  post,  I  was 
impressed  with  the  strangeness  of  my  situation,  — 
keeping  guard  over  the  lives  of  eight  poor,  starv- 


226  AN   ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

ing,  shivering  men ;  and  against  what  ?  Not  wild 
beasts,  for  in  the  whole  region  around  there  was 
no  evidence  of  their  existence ;  indeed,  it  did 
not  seem  possible  that  any  such  things  could  live 
in  the  desolation  about  me  :  not  against  tempest 
and  storm,  for  the  sky  was  without  a  cloud,  and 
the  air  was  hushed  in  the  profoundest  silence  ;  but 
against  creatures  human  like  ourselves !  As  I 
looked  around  upon  the  bleak  rocks,  and  out  upon 
the  frozen  desert  —  all  wrapt  in  night  and  still  as 
death,  —  and  thought  of  the  thronged  world  at  the 
south ;  and  reflected,  that  "  here  where  men  are 
few,  as  well  as  there  where  they  are  many,  the 
common  wants  and  common  sufferings  of  poor 
humanity  are  made  to  serve  the  purposes  of  cruel 
rivalries  and  selfish  greed,"  I  could  not  suppress 
a  sigh  over  the  hopelessness  of  attempting  to  find 
anywhere  "on  earth,  peace." 

At  intervals,  during  the  middle  hours  of  the 
night,  noises  were  distinctly  heard  in  the  direc 
tion  of  Fitzclarence  Rock ;  and  although  we  could 
not  at  any  time  discover  the  speakers,  yet  it  was 
evident '  that  we  we^e  closely  watched.  The  sav 
ages  were  hovering  around  us  ;  and,  hiding  behind 
the  bergs  and  rocks,  along  the  coast,  and  down  in 
Booth  Bay,  were  awaiting  their  opportunity ;  but 
they  never  came  within  view.  They  doubtless  saw 
our  sentry,  and,  growing  cold  with  watching,  they 
sneaked  homeward.  A  party  went  to  Booth  Bay 
next  morning,  and  discovered  there  numerous  fresh 
tracks. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

PETERSEN'S  ADVENTURES  AMONG  THE  ESQUIMAUX. 

WE  took  the  earliest  opportunity  to  get  from 
Mr.  Petersen  and  Godfrey  a  full  account  of  the 
journey  which  had  resulted  so  disastrously  to  all 
our  hopes. 

It  will  be  remembered  by  the  reader,  that  they 
left  us  on  the  morning  of  the  third  of  Novem 
ber  ;  and  were,  therefore,  absent  four  days.  They 
reached  Netlik  in  about  nine  hours  from  the  time 
of  starting;  and  were  there  comfortably  quartered, 
one  in  each  of  the  two  huts.  Everything  went 
"  merry  as  the  marriage-bell "  during  the  day  fol 
lowing  ;  and  the  travellers  were  well-fed  and  well- 
treated.  The  very  best  food  was  given  to  them, 
the  choicest  cuts  of  young  bear,  the  most  juicy  lobes 
of  liver,  and  the  tenderest  puppy  chops.  The  hunt 
ers  all  went  away  early  in  the  morning,  as  Kalutu- 
nah  said,  to  hunt,  in  order  that  they  might  have  a 
better  stock  of  food  to  leave  with  their  families,  as 
well  as  to  take  on  the  journey  to  the  brig.  This 
excuse  for  delay  seemed  reasonable  enough. 

Very  few  of  them  however  came  back  at  the 
close  of  the  day ;  and  of  those  who  did  return, 
Kalutunah  was  not  one. 


228  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

The  next  day  passed,  and  still  he  did  not  show 
himself.  Petersen  grew  uneasy.  The  moon  was 
one  dayjpast  its  full,  and  there  was  no  time  to  lose. 
Everything  else  which  happened  was  calculated  to 
inspire  him  with  confidence.  Many  hunters  came 
in,  mostly  strangers  to  the  settlement ;  and  all  was 
bustle  and  activity.  Sledges  were  coming  and  go 
ing  continually;  dogs  were  howling,  snarling,  and 
fighting;  some  of  the  women  were  running  to  and 
fro,  between  their  huts  and  their  stone  houses,  or 
rather  their  stone  meat-graves ;  others  were  ac 
tively  sewing  boots  and  mittens.  Petersen  flat 
tered  himself  that  he  was  to  have  a  caravan  in 
earnest,  and  that  the  whole  tribe  was  to  accom 
pany  him. 

Kalutunah  did  not  return  until  toward  the  even 
ing  of  the  sixth.  He  was  accompanied  by  several 
sledges ;  and  among  the  drivers  was  a  man  named 
"  Sip-su."  This  fellow  had  been  at  our  hut.  He 
was  the  largest  and  best  built  man  of  the  tribe 
that  we  had  seen ;  but  his  face  wore  a  fierce  ex 
pression,  foreign  to  the  countenances  of  his  compan 
ions.  While  they  always  appeared  to-be  in  a  good- 
humor,  ever  laughing  and  gay,  he  was  seldom  seen 
even  to  smile  ;  and  on  all  occasions  he  maintained 
the  most  dignified  reserve.  A  few  stiff  hairs  grow 
ing  on  his  lip  and  chin,  coupled  with  an  unusually 
heavy  pair  of  eyebrows,  heightened  the  savage 
effect  of  his  face.  Sip-su  was  a  genuine  bar 
barian. 

He  made  it  his  boast  that  he  had  killed  two  men, 
members  of  his  own  tribe.  They  were  unsuccessful 
hunters ;  and,  being  a  burden  upon  his  people,  he 


SUSPICIONS  OF  TREACHERY.  229 

took  it  upon  himself  to  rid  the  settlement  of  the 
nuisance.  He  waylaid  them  among  the  hummocks, 
and  mercilessly  harpooned  them. 

There  were  now  collected  together  about  a  dozen 
sledges,  and  the  huts  were  crowded  with  people. 
Petersen's  patience  was,  by  this  time,  well-nigh  ex 
hausted  ;  but  he  knew  that  the  Esquimaux  usually 
do  their  work  in  their  own  way.  He  had  made  up 
his  mind  that  they  intended  to  go  in  the  morning; 
but  as  the  moon  was  very  bright  he  thought  that  he 
might  venture  an  attempt  to  hasten  the  departure 
by  a  few  hours ;  but,  to  his  surprise,  his  request  was 
answered  with  a  surly  statement  that  they  did  not 
wish  to  go  with  him  at  all,  and  that  they  had  never 
had  any  intention  to  go.  At  this  announcement 
the  people  in  the  hut  laughed  heartily. 

This  was  too  much  for  human  patience;  and 
Petersen  demanded,  with  something  of  indignation 
in  his  tone,  to  know  what  they  meant  by  thus  cheat 
ing  him  with  false  promises  ;  but  they  deigned  no 
other  reply,  than  that  they  could  not  pass  Cape 
Alexander,  —  as  they  called  it,  "  the  blowing  place." 

All  these  proceedings,  so  different  from  anything 
that  he  had  before  seen,  were  calculated  to  excite 
suspicion  that  they  foreboded  mischief;  but  Peter- 
sen  was  not  a  man  to  be  frightened  at  shadows. 
He  went  at  once  over  to  the  other  hut,  and  tell 
ing  Godfrey' what  had  happened,  cautioned  him  to 
be  on  his  guard.  He  then  returned,  resolved  to  put 
on  a  bold  front  and  to  make  a  strong  effort.  As 
he  came  into  the  hut  its  inmates  set 'up  &  fiendish 
laugh.  This  excited  less  his  fear  than  his  anger. 
He  told  them  that  they  were  a  set  of  lying  knaves ; 

20 


230  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

and  that,  if  they  did  not  keep  their  promises,  his 
people  would  come  with  their  guns  and  kill  them 
all,  and  destroy  their  dwellings*.  His  threats  were, 
however,  thrown  away,  for  they  only  laughed  the 
more. 

Seeing  all  his  schemes  thus  imperilled,  he  de 
manded  that  they  should  sell  him  a  team  of  dogs, 
since  they  had  more  than  they  wanted,  —  he  would 
pay  them  well.  No  direct  answer  was  made  to  this 
demand ;'  but  Sip-su  put  to  Kalutunah  a  question, 
which  was,  in  effect,  "  Don't  you  think  we  can  get 
his  things  in  a  cheaper  way  ?  " 

Petersen  no  longer  doubted  as  to  their  evil  inten 
tions  toward  him,  more  especially  as  they  all  impor 
tuned  him  to  lie  down  and  sleep.  He  knew,  how 
ever,  that  they  were  of  opinion  that  he  carried, 
somewhere  about  his  person,  a  pistol ;  and  he  felt 
confident  that  he  could  use  this  opinion  as  a  talis 
man  to  keep  him  from  harm,  at  least  for  a  time. 
They  thought,  indeed,  that  each  one  of  the  white 
men  carried  one  of  these  instruments;  and  having 
seen  some  of  their  marvellous  effects  on  former 
occasions,  they  had  settled  down  into  the  belief 
that  they  were  magical  wands,  with  which  the 
"  Kablunet "  thrust  danger  aside.  This  idea  we  had 
always  endeavored  to  strengthen  ;  and,  although 
Petersen  had  no  pistol  about  him  at  this  tirrje,  yet, 
as  the  Esquimaux  did  not  know  the  fact,  he  might 
rely  upon  their  fears. 

He  had  left  his  rifle  outside ;  for,  if  brought  into 
the  hut  the  'moisture  of  the  warm  air  would  be 
condensed  by  the  cold  iron,  and  the  powder  being 
thereby  dampened,  the  weapon  would  not  be  ser- 


CONSPIRACY  DISCOVERED.  231 

viceable.  In  order  to  keep  the  natives  from  handling 
it,  he  had  told  them  that  the  instant  they  touched  it 
they  would  be  killed ;  and  thus  far  his  warning  had 
been  respected. 

How  long  he  would  be  able  to  hold  these  imag 
inary  terrors  over  them,  he  did  not  know;  but  he 
was  determined  to  push  the  matter  just  far  enough 
to  find  out,  if  possible,  what  was  the  nature  of  the 
conspiracy  which  he  had  reason  to  believe  was 
directed,  not  only  against  Godfrey  and  himself,  but 
also  against  their  comrades  at  Booth  Bay. 

He  accordingly  seated  himself  carelessly  upon  the 
breck.  His  whole  demeanor  thus  far  had  been  such, 
that  none  of  his  suspicions  were  revealed;  and  he 
felt  that  they  looked  upon  him  as  a  cat  looks  upon 
a  wounded  mouse,  with  only  the  difference  that  he 
must  be  disarmed.  This  task  was  undertaken  by 
Sip-su.  Satisfied  that  this  was  their  object  in  try 
ing  to  get  him  to  lie  down,  he  threw  himself  upon 
the  breck  and  feigned  asleep.  This  procedure  re 
quired  presence  of  mind ;  but  it  did  not  seem  to 
him  to  augment  greatly  his  risks,  since  he  knew  that 
they  would  hardly  venture  to  attack  him  until  they 
had  exhausted  aU  their  arts  in  endeavoring  to  get 
the  pistol  which  they  supposed  him  to  carry. 

The  Esquimaux,  like  many  other  people,  find  it 
difficult  to  keep  their  tongues  tied,  or  to  practice 
prudence;  and  scarcely  had  Petersen  shown  the 
first  symptom  of  being  asleep  before  all  their  voices 
broke  loose  at  once,  and  in  an  instant  the  story  was 
told.  Men  and  women,  boys  and  girls,  were  dis 
cussing  it.  Petersen  and  Godfrey  were  to  be  killed 
on  the  spot,  and  the  hut  at  Tessuisak  (Booth  Bay) 


232  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

was  to  be  surprised  before  Mr.  Sonntag  and  John 
could  return  from  Akbat.  In  both  cases  Sip-su  was 
to  lead  the  assault,  and  Kalutunah  was  to  act  as  his 
second  in  command. 

Sip-su  was  just  beginning  to  put  into  execution 
the  first  part  of  the  plan  of  operations,  by  instituting 
a  search  for  Petersen's  pistol,  when  Godfrey  came  to 
the  window  and  hallooed  to  his  chief,  to  know  if  he 
was  alive.  He  was  satisfied,  from  what  he  had  seen 
and  heard  in  the  other  hut,  that  foul  play  was  in 
tended. 

Petersen  awoke  from  his  sham  sleep,  and,  having 
exchanged  words  with  Godfrey,  made  some  excuse 
and  went  out.  He  found  a  crowd  of  men,  women, 
and  boys  around  his  rifle.  It  was  fortunate  that  he 
had  impressed  upon  them  the  idea  that  it  was  dan 
gerous  to  touch  it.  Seeing  them  assembled  about 
the  gun,  he  called  to  them  to  know  why  they  were 
not  afraid  to  go  so  near ;  and  they  all  withdrew. 

Having  secured  his  rifle,  he  told  them  that  he  in 
tended  to  go  in  hunt  of  bears  (Nannook) ;  and  draw 
ing  from  his  pocket  a  handful  of  balls,  he  remarked, 
as  he  dropped  them  one  by  one  into  his  other  hand, 
that  each  of  them  was  sufficient  to  kill  a  bear,  or  a 
man,  or  any  other  animal.  They  would  have  per 
suaded  him  to  stay ;  but  he  had  already  had  enough 
of  their  treachery,  and  he  resolved  to  walk  to  Booth 
Bay.  This,  although  a  dangerous  experiment,  was 
clearly  more  safe  than  to  remain. 

Conscious  that  their  guilty  intentions  were  rightly 
interpreted,  the  Esquimaux  clustered  around  him,  de 
claring,  with  suspicious  eagerness,  that  they  "  would 
not  hurt  him,"  that  "  nobody  meant  him  any  harm." 


FLIGHT  AND  PURSUIT.  233 

It  '/vas  late  when,  with  Godfrey,  he  started  toward 
our  party.  The  night  was  clear  and  calm,  but  the 
cold  was  terribly  intense.  At  our  hut  the  tempera 
ture  was  forty-two  degrees  below  zero.  The  dis 
tance  to  be  travelled  by  them  would  have  been,  by 
the  most  direct  line,  forty  miles ;  but  more  nearly  fifty 
by  the  crooked  path  which  they  must  follow.  Even 
the  three  days  of  feasting  at  the  Esquimau  settle 
ment  had  not  restored  the  physical  strength  of  which 
they  had  been  deprived  by  their  course  of  life  at  the 
hut ;  and,  reduced  as  they  were  in  flesh,  it  seemed  to 
them  scarcely  probable  that  they  could  make  the  ex 
ertion  necessary  to  enable  them  to  rejoin  us. 

The  Esquimaux  sullenly  watched  them  from  the 
shore  as  they  moved  off;  and  when  they  had  gone 
about  two  miles,  the  former  hitched  their  teams,  and, 
leaving  the  settlement,  were  soon  in  full  pursuit. 
The  wild,  savage  cries  of  the  men,  and  the  sharp 
snarl  of  the  dogs,  sounded  upon  the  ears  of  our  poor 
comrades  like  a  death-knell.  In  their  previous  anx 
ieties,  they  had  not  looked  forward  to  this  new  dan 
ger.  The  ice-plain  was  everywhere  smooth ;  there 
was  not  in  sight,  for  their  encouragement,  a  single 
hummock  behind  which  they  might  hope  to  shelter 
themselves. 

On  came  the  noisy  pack,  —  half  a  hundred  wolfish 
dogs.  Against  such  an  onset,  what  could  be  done 
by  two  weak  men,  armed  with  a  single  rifle  ?  The 
dogs  and  the  harpoons  of  their  drivers  must  soon 
finish  the  murderous  work.  Petersen  was,  however, 
resolved  that  Sip-su  or  Kalutunah  should  pay  the 
penalty  of  his  treachery,  if  at  any  moment  within 
range  of  the  rifle.  At  this  stage  of  desperate  expec- 

20  * 


234  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

tation,  the  sledges,  at  the  distance  of  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  fugitives,  suddenly  turned  to  the  right, 
and  were  driven  seaward. 

It  was  now  evident  that  the  Esquimaux  were  not 
bold  enough  to  meet^he  chances  of  an  encounter,  in 
which  one  of  them  must  become  a  victim  of  the 
dreaded  rifle ;  and  consequently,  that  in  an  open 
field  there  was  no  reason  to  fear  their  close  assault ; 
but  it  might  be  their  intention  to  lie  in  wait  among 
the  hummocks  or  behind  a  berg,  and  thus  to  gain  the 
advantage  of  an  ambush.  The  rough  ice  was  there 
fore  avoided  as  much  as  possible  by  the  travellers, 
although  by  this  course  their  journey  was  seriously 
prolonged.  Still,  it  was  not  always  practicable  to 
keep  away  from  the  hummocks  ;  and  Petersen's  suf 
ferings  were  augmented  by  the  exposure  of  his  hand, 
which  he  was  obliged  frequently  to  bare,  in  order  to 
be  prepared  to  use  his  rifle  at  any  moment  of  need. 
Whatever  the  purpose  of  the  savages,  however,  they 
did  not  show  themselves. 

Upon  reaching  Cape  Parry,  both  Petersen  and 
Godfrey  were  so  far  exhausted  that  they  could 
scarcely  walk ;  and  there  remained  nearly  one  half 
of  their  journey  to  be  accomplished.  At  times  they 
felt  drowsy,  and  almost  lost  consciousness;  but  to 
halt  would  in  all  probability  be  fatal  to  them.  Sus 
taining  each  "other,  they  slowly  and  steadily  contin 
ued  down  the  coast. 

The  morning  twilight  at  length  appeared  in  the 
southeast;  and  after  weary,  painful  hours,  the  sun's 
rays,  shooting  from  beneath  the  horizon,  showed 
them  that  noon  had  arrived ;  yet  there  stih1  lay  miles 
between  them  and  the  hut.  Benumbed  by  cold, 


PEESEVERANCE.  235 

exhausted  by  fatigue  and  hunger,  and  parched  by 
thirst,  they  might  have  yielded  to  despair ;  but  their 
faces  were  toward  the  south  ;  the  warm  hues  of  the 
sky  re-inspired  them  with  thoughts  of  home,  and 
these  brought  hope  and  courage  to  their  hearts. 

After  an  uninterrupted  walk  of  twenty -four  hours, 
their  heroic  energy  triumphed.  I  have  already  told 
the  reader  of  their  sad  condition  when  they  came 
upon  us  in  the  night 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

SUPPLIES     OBTAINED     WHEN     LEAST    EXPECTED. 

November  8th.  WE  built,  this  day,  a  wall  in 
front  of  our  hut.  The  blocks,  of  which  it  was  com 
posed,  were  cut  with  our  little  saw  from  a  solidified 
snow-drift. 

As  the  wall  had  a  degree  of  resemblance  to  a 
military  defence,  our  poor  snow  residence  bore  some-^ 
what  the  aspect  of  a  baby  fort.  Bonsall  called  it 
Fort  Desolation ;  John  grumblingly  declared  that 
Fort  Starvation  would  sound  much  better. 

The  hut  and  the  locality  had  already  several 
names.  The  Esquimaux  called  it  "  Tessuisak," 
meaning  "  The  place  where  there  is  a  bay."  Those 
which  our  people  gave  it  from  time  to  time,  some 
seriously,  some  playfully,  express  the  fluctuations  of 
our  spirits.  We  christened  it  "  Hopes  Checked,'* 
when  we  were  first  driven  ashore.  "  The  Wan 
derer's  Home  "  followed  soon  afterward,  when  the 
Esquimaux  began  to  come  to  us.  When  they 
stopped  with  us  more  frequently,  on  their  way  to 
and  fro  between  Netlik  and  Akbat,  we  changed  it 
to  "  The  Half- Way  House."  Once,  when  we  were 
talking  of  home,  and  the  hut  was  warm  and  cheer 
ful,  and  we  were  praising  our  country  and  our 
country's  great  men,  we  named  our  dwelling  "  The 


DESOLATION.  237 

Everett  House."  Then,  again,  we  had  bright  dreams 
of  moving  on  in  our  course,  when  the  spring-time 
should  return,  and  the  sun  should  come  to  gladden 
the  eye  and  to  guide  us  southward,  and  we  called 
the  place  "  Hopes  Deferred."  "  Desolation  "  and 
"  Starvation  "  were  fitting  names  with  which  to 
close  the  series,  for  we  really  seemed  now  to  be  at 
the  lowest  ebb  of  our  fortunes.  We  were  at  the 
end  of  our  pla»s,  and,  in  two  days  more,  we  should 
be  at  the  end  of  our  provisions.  We  saw  nothing 
further. 

We  were  destitute  —  helpless.  The  only  human 
beings  within  three  hundred  miles  were  seeking 
our  lives.'  Of  what  value,  now,  was  the  question, 
What  shall  we  do  ?  The  damp  and  chilly  air ;  the 
blackened  embers  on  the  hearth ;  the  frost-coated 
rafters  overhead  ;  the  ice-covered  walls  around  ;  the 
feeble  flicker  of  our  lamp,  going  out  for  want  of 
fuel ;  the  almost  empty  shelf,  where  we  kept  our 
food,  —  all  took  up  the  question  for  us,  and  sent  to 
our  hearts  the  scarce  unwelcome  answer,  "  Die  !  "  — 
Why  not  ?  Life  was  not  then  of  so  much  worth 
that  we  should  plot  and  plan  to  save  it,  when  all  its 
purposes  had  been  destroyed,  —  Upernavik,  Cape 
York,  the  whalers,  all  were  beyond  our  reach. 

The  reader  will  readily  appreciate  our  condition 
at  this  time,  morally,  as  well  as  physically,  better 
than  I  can  describe  it.  We  had  been  so  long 
hoping  almost  against  hope ;  so  long  living  in  a 
state  of  uncertainty,  neither  being  able  to  die,  nor 
yet  foreseeing  how  we  should  live ;  so  often  tor 
tured  almost  to  starvation  by  that  mocking  substi 
tute  for  food,  stone-moss;  and  now  we  were  at 


238  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

last  so  beset  by  crafty  savages  that  our  feelings 
very  naturally,  and  perhaps  not  inexcusably,  as 
sumed  somewhat  the  character  of  recklessness.  Yet 
in  our  calmer  moments  we  felt  that  we  were  not 
forsaken.  More  than  once  succor  had  come  to  us 
when  we  had  least  reason  to  expect  it,  and  we 
could  not  deny  ourselves  the  satisfaction  of  believ 
ing  that  it  was  sent  to  us  by  the  direction  of  a 
higher  than  human  hand. 

We  labored  diligently,  during  the  8th  and  9th, 
to  get  our  hut  in  a  condition  to  guard  us  against  the 
possibility  of  surprise  by  the  Esquimaux,  for  whom 
a  sharp  look-out  was  incessantly  kept.  We  also 
set  to  work  again  to  gather  stone-moss. 

The  sun  was  now  so  far  beneath  the  horizon  that 
we  had  twilight  at  noonday  ;  and,  at  that  time,  stars 
of  the  first  and  second  magnitudes  were  seen  dimly 
twinkling  in  the  gray  sky. 

The  wall  which  we  built  about  our  hut  was  in 
tended  as  a  protection  more  against  the  wind  than 
against  the  Esquimaux;  for  even  the  least  breath 
of  air,  at  the  low  temperature  then  prevailing,  made 
it  impossible  for  a  sentry  to  hold  his  place  upon  the 
plain.  Inside  of  this  wall  were  brought  the  last 
remains  of  the  Hope,  which  hitherto  had  lain,  half 
buried  in  the  drift,  down  by  the  beach.  The  pieces 
were  broken  into  convenient  size  ;  and  were  buried 
under  the  loose  snow.  We  also  secured  our  tent. 

November  Wth.  Again  the  Esquimaux  appear  to 
us  more  as  our  good  angels  than  as  our  enemies. 
Under  extraordinary  temptation,  and,  doubtless,  at 


RECONCILIATION.  239 

the  evil  instigation  of  a  bad  leader,  these  poor  sav 
ages  had  proposed  the  death  of  Petersen  and  his 
companion;  but  this  day  two  of  them,  Kalutunah 
and  another  hunter,  came  to  us,  and  threw  at  our 
feet  a  large  piece  of  walrus-beef  and  a  piece  of 
liver.  The  latter  was  not  yet  frozen  ;  and  the  an 
imal  from  which  it  was  taken  had,  therefore,  been 
recently  caught. 

We  were  talking  about  them,  in  no  spirit  of  love, 
when  they  arrived ;  and,  as  they  came  up  the  hill, 
various  were  the  expressions  of  opinion  as  to  what 
ought  to  be  done  with  them.  One  said  that  we 
should  detain  them,  and  hold  them  as  hostages 
until  their  people  should  have  performed  their  prom 
ises  ;  and  that  their  dogs  should  be  seized,  and  used 
in  the  interval ;  but,  apart  from  any  consideration 
of  justice,  such  a  proceeding  would  scarcely  have 
been  safe.  Another  hinted  that  fourteen  dogs  would 
save  us  from  starvation  ;  for,  if  we  should  not  suc 
ceed  with  them  in  the  hunt,  we  could  kill  and  eat 
them.  Again,  apart  from  any  question  how  far  our 
necessities  overruled  the  old  law  of  meum  and  tuum, 
it  was  certain  that  such  a  step,  whatever  its  imme 
diate  advantages,  would  bring  us  ultimately  into 
open,  and  probably,  to  our  party,  fatal  hostility  with 
the  entire  tribe.  Perhaps,  as  the  present  of  food 
seemed  to  indicate,  we  had  not  exhausted  all  of  our 
means  of  negotiation  ;  and,  until  driven  to  the  last 
resort,  we  could  not  justifiably  use  the  strong  hand 
upon  our  neighbors'  property.  Great  allowances 
were  obviously  to  be  made  for  the  tribe,  upon  whom 
we  had  no  claims  except  upon  grounds  of  humanity 
too  general  for  their  uninstructed  mind?.  The  sue- 


240  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

cess  or  failure  of  our  schemes  could  be  of  no  conse 
quence  to  them ;  and  there  remained  no  principle 
upon  which  to  sustain  the  seizure  of  the  men  and 
teams,  unless  it  should  be  one  which  would  warrant 
this  act  as  a  measure  of  precaution  for  our  present 
safety,  which  was  not  in  peril  from  the  visitors  ;  or 
as  a  measure  of  confiscation  and  bodily  punishment, 
which  we  were  not  in  a  position  to  enforce. 

At  first  Kalutunah  was  shy ;  and  he  brought  his 
harpoon  into  the  hut  with  him,  which  he  had  never 
before  done.  Although  evidently  relying  mainly 
upon  his  gifts  and  smiles  to  conciliate  us,  he  was 
yet  unwilling  to  trust  himself  unarmed  in  our  midst. 
Desirous  to  reassure  him,  we  gave  to  him  presents, 
and  jested  with  him  as  though  our  relations  were 
undisturbed ;  but  although  apparently  his  apprehen 
sions  were  greatly  relieved,  he  did  not  for  a  moment 
lay  aside  his  harpoon.  After  remaining  an  hour  he 
left  us  at  about  nine  o'clock,  and  dashed  off  seaward 
upon  the  ice,  on  a  moonlight  hunt  for  bears. 

Petersen  spent  the  day  in  making  knives  for  the 
Esquimaux,  in  order  to  be  prepared  for  the  amicable 
relations  which  seemed  about  to  be  reestablished, 
and  for  the  promotion  of  our  endeavors  to  obtain 
a  team  of  dogs.  The  knives  were  made  of  hoop- 
iron,  a  relic  of  our  kegs.  The  pattern  was  that  of 
an  ordinary  sheath  or  butcher's  knife.  The  handle 
was  of  wood  from  the  keel  of  the  Hope,  and  cop 
per  nails  from  the  same  source  furnished  the  rivets. 
Through  the  skill  of  the  workman  the  result  was 
very  creditable,  although  his  only  tools  were  an  old 
file,  one  end  of  which  was  used  as  a  punr.h,  u 
hatchet,  a  small  saw,  and  a  pocket-knife. 


THE  WIDOW.  241 

November  11th.  There  came  to  us  this  day,  with 
four  sledges,  six  Esquimaux,  of  whom  three  were 
residents  of  Akbat.  They  were  all  on  their  way 
to  Netlik.  One  of  them  was  our  old  friend  of 
sentimental  memory,  the  widow,  who  carried,  as 
usual,  a  bundle  of  frozen  birds  under  her  arm.,  She 
was  as  voluble  as  ever,  had  much  to  tell,  and  many 
questions  to  ask.  We  were  compelled  to  cry  with 
her  only  once. 

All  of  the  visitors  were  at  first  shy ;  which  proved 
that  if  they  had  not  shared  the  late  conspiracy,  it 
was,  at  least,  known  to  them.  Finding  themselves, 
however,  treated  in  the  accustomed  manner,  they 
were  soon  at' their  ease.  Each  of  them  had  brought 
something  for  barter ;  and  in  a  short  time  there  was 
piled  in  one  corner  of  our  hut  such  a  supply  of 
food  and  fuel  as  we  had  not  seen  for  many  a  long 
day.  The  aggregate  was  about  one  hundred  pounds, 
of  which  three  fourths  were  flesh.  We  had  walrus, 
bear,  seal,  and  birds ;  and  with  economy  this  store 
would  be  sufficient  for  us  during  five  or  six  days 
But  one  meal  was  necessarily  devoted  to  our  guests, 
who  consumed  as  much  as  would  have  served  our 
selves  during  one  third  of  that  time.  We  witnessed 
most  reluctantly  such  excess  of  indulgence  at  our 
expense ;  but  it  would  have  been  no  less  impolitic 
than  uncivil  to  check  it. 

At  the  end  of  three  hours  the  party  set  off  north 
ward,  apparently  well  pleased  with  the  share  which 
they  had  received  of  our  riches ;  Jbut  they  would 
not  sell  any  dogs. 

November   12th.      Esquimaux    are    coming   from 
every  quarter,  and  are  flying  about  in  every  direc- 
21 


242  AN   ARCTIC   BOAT  JOUENEY. 

tion.  We  have  a  new  arrival  from  Northumberland 
Island,  —  a  man  whom  we  have  not  before  seen. 
He  appeared  at  about  noon,  and  added  to  our  stores 
a  walrus  flipper,  about  fifty  little  auks,  and  some 
pieces  of  blubber.  In  return,  he  demanded  a  staff 
for  a  harpoon,  a  knife,  and  three  needles.  He  is  the 
first  of  these  people  who  has  not  stipulated  for  pay 
ment  upon  delivery  of  his  goods. 

Regard  to  our  health  and  strength  induced  us  to 
profit  by  this  sudden  accession  to  our  stock  of  pro 
visions  ;  and  we  ate  three  substantial  meals :  a  de 
gree  of  luxury  which  we  had  not  enjoyed  since 
leaving  Rensselaer  Harbor. 

Our  new  friend,  named  Kingiktok,  (the  Rock,) 
is  a  sober,  civil  fellow,  who  says  very  little  except 
when  questioned.  We  fancied  him  immediately, 
and  sought  his  friendly  confidence  by  the  gift  of  a 
few  needles  for  his  wife,  a  pocket-knife  for  his  son, 
and  a  whipstock  for  himself.  As  if  to  express  his 
gratitude  he  said  that  he  was  our  friend.  This  he 
repeated  several  times  with  so  peculiar  an  emphasis, 
that  we  began  to  doubt  whether  his  object  was  to 
cover  a  treacherous  purpose,  or  to  intimate  that  he 
desired  to  distinguish  himself  from  others  who  were 
hostile  to  us,  and  whose  inimical  designs  he  could 
disclose.  Petersen,  who  had  not  previously  given 
much  attention  to  him,  now  endeavored  to  elicit 
from  him  whatever  information  he  was  disposed  to 
impart ;  and  thus  we  obtained  the  statement  that 
himself  and  his  brother  Amalatok  (with  whom  the 
reader  has  already  been  made  acquainted  on  page 
104),  were  the  only  persons  in  the  whole  tribe 
who  were  not  hostile  to  us.  No  circumstance  of 


THE   WITCH-WIFE.  243 

this  communication  surprised  us  as  much  as,  that 
an  Esquimau  should  be  the  bearer  of  it. 

To  enable  the  reader  to  see  more  of  the  workings 
of  the  uncivilized  people  with  whom  we  were  in 
contact,  I  will  give  briefly  a  part  of  what  we  learned 
from  Kingiktok. 

The  wife  of  his  brother  Amalatok  is  believed  by 
the  tribe  to  be  a  witch,  a  reputation  which  is  not 
belied  by  her  looks.  What  has  caused  this  stigma 
upon  her,  Kingiktok  refused  to  tell ;  but  he  said  that 
she  had  been  condemned  to  death,  and  that  Sip-su 
had  declared  himself  her  executioner. 

The  style  of  execution  in  vogue,  is  not  more  cred 
itable  to  the  tribe  than  it  is  comfortable  for  the 
victim.  The  executioner  awaits  an  opportunity, 
creeps  behind  a  lump  of  ice,  and  plants  his  harpoon 
in  the  back  of  the  condemned,  when  the  latter  is 
least  expecting  it.  The  prospect  of  such  a  fate  for 
Mrs.  Amalatok,  added  to  the  reproach  cast  upon  her, 
had  naturally  aroused  the  watchfulness  and  vindic- 
tiveness  of  her  lord  and  his  brother,  who  were  not 
altogether  without  courage.  Their  national  habits 
had  trained  them  to  the  vigilance  and  readiness 
needful  to  such  an  exigence.  Feuds  are  apparently, 
in  many  cases,  not  only  irreconcilable  between  the 
original  parties,  but  hereditary.  Forgiveness  of  in 
juries  is  certainly  not  a  virtue  which  stands  very 
high  in  their  estimation ;  and  thus  it  happens  that 
the  lying  in  wait  for  an  adversary  is  a  long  estab 
lished  practice,  upon  which  the  settlement  of  private 
quarrels  must  often  depend.  Unfortunately  for 
Amalatok  and  his  brother,  and  for  the  witch-wife, 
who  watches  for  herself  as  closely  as  she  is  watched, 


244  AN   ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

Sip-su  carries  with  him  the  voices  of  the  greater 
number  of  his  tribe;  and,  consequently,  the  broth 
ers  never  venture  to  sleep  in  the  villages ;  though 
visits  are  interchanged  with  the  inhabitants,  who  do 
not  hesitate  to  call  at  the  hut  of  Amalatok  on  their 
way  to  the  outer  hunting-grounds.  On  all  such 
occasions  the  parties  are  very  civil  to  each  other, 
and  the  visitors  are  hospitably  feasted. 

An  Esquimau  seems  to  have  a  repugnance  to 
killing  even  an  enemy,  unless  he  can  do  it  by  stealth. 
I  have  often  been  amazed  that  these  men  should 
have  the  courage  to  attack,  with  their  slender  har 
poons,  the  huge  and  fierce  polar  bear ;  and  yet  that, 
according  to  their  standard,  Amalatok  and  Sip-su, 
who  feared  to  meet  each  other  in  open  fight,  but 
sought  every  day  to  take  a  mean  advantage  of  each 
other,  were  far  from  being  cowards. 

The  feud  with  Sip-su  unlocked  the  speech  of 
Kingiktok,  who  told  us  that,  from  the  beginning,  the 
former  had  done  all  that  he  could  to  persuade  the 
tribe  that  the  white  men  were  unable  to  catch  the 
bear,  the  walrus,  and  the  seal ;  and  that,  if  left  to 
their  fate,  they  must  die  ;  in  which  case  the  tribe 
would  get  all  their  wood  and  iron.  This  view  of 
the  case  was  for  a  time  opposed  by  Kalutunah,  who 
insisted  that  the  white  men  could  kill  anything  with 
their  auleit  (guns)  or  boom,  as  they  more  commonly 
called  our  weapons,  in  imitation  of  the  sound  made 
by  their  discharge.  The  public  judgment,  however, 
sided  with  Sip-su ;  and,  accordingly,  the  Esquimaux 
waited  and  waited,  and  were  surprised  upon  visiting 
our  hut,  to  find  us  alive.  They  grew  impatient ;  but 
their  jealousies  interfered  in  our  behalf.  When  Ka- 


THE   RIVALS.  245 

lutunah  returned  from  us  with  a  new  harpoon,  a 
whipstock  and  a  knife,  and  some  needles  for  his 
wife,  domestic  rivalry  stimulated  the  visits  of  others 
of  the  village.  Provisions  came  to  us,  and  prizes 
were  carried  off.  Kalutunah  himself  was  deter 
mined  not  to  be  outdone,  as  he  plumed  himself  not 
only  upon  his  reputation  as  a  hunter,  but  also  upon 
his  equipment  which,  in  fact,  was  the  best  we  had 
seen.  Thus  this  rivalry  fed  us. 

Sip-su  continued  to  abstain  from  this  compe 
tition,  until  his  wife,  envious  of  her  neighbors,  left 
him  no  alternative  but  domestic  rupture;  to  avoid 
which  he  condescended  to  make  a  visit  to  us.  He 
brought, 'however,  only  a  trifling  supply,  for  which 
he  demanded  a  large  price ;  and  as  we  could  make 
no  distinctions  without  disturbing  our  standards  of 
trade,  he  carried  home  with  him  only  a  single  needle 
and  a  very  small  piece  of  wood.  He  had  yielded  his 
principle  and  his  dignity,  and  had  gained  no  thanks 
from  his  wife.  It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  his  pre 
vious  inclinations  respecting  us  were  rendered  more 
amiable. 

When  Petersen  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Esqui 
maux,  Kalutunah  went  to  inform  his  rival,  Sip-su, 
who  lived  near  Cape  Robertson,  at  Karsooit,  which 
was  fifty  miles  away.  It  was  this  journey  which 
occasioned  the  delay  already  mentioned.  In  the 
mean  time,  the  news  was  spread  by  other  hunters, 
and  there  was  a  general  assemblage  of  the  people. 
A.  plan  was  arranged  substantially,  as  recorded  in  a 
previous  chapter ;  but  Sip-su  was  timid  in  the  pres 
ence  of  the  magical  "  auleit ;"  and  he  deferred  the 
execution  of  his  design,  until  it  was  frustrated  by  the 

21* 


246  AH  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

awakened  suspicions  of  our  comrades.  Incensed  at 
their  escape,  the  disappointed  savage  led  the  pursuit 
with  the  hope  of  setting  the  dogs  upon  them ;  but 
again  his  courage  failed  at  the  critical  moment. 

With  every  allowance  due  to  the  inventions  and 
exaggerations  of  an  enemy,  we  found  this  narrative 
too  nearly  in  accordance  with  the  results  of  Peter- 
sen's  observations  to  admit  of  our  doubting  its  sub 
stantial  truth. 

From  Kalutunah  we  had  received  numerous  ben 
efits  and  manifestations  of  friendliness  ;  and  it  is  on 
that  account  gratifying  to  know  that  when  he  con 
curred  with  others  for  our  destruction,  he  yielded  only 
to. what  was  to  him  extraordinary  temptation.  He 
was  young  in  authority ;  the  majority  of  his  people 
were  against  him ;  his  rival  had  the  popular  side ; 
and  it  might  even  have  seemed  a  duty  to  secure  to 
the  tribe,  at  what  he  was  accustomed  to  regard  as  a 
trifling  price,  the  vast  treasure  of  wood,  iron,  and 
needles  possessed  by  strangers  of  another  race,  be 
tween  whom  and  himself  there  was  no  formally 
recognized  tie  but  that  of  interest. 

The  time,  we  hope,  is  not  very  remote,  when, 
through  the  fraternal  aid  of  Christian  men,  he  and  his 
benighted  kindred  shall  learn  not  only  to  encourage 
the  feeble  virtues  which  they  now  possess,  but  also 
to  resist  successfully  the  promptings  of  those  savage 
passions  of  which  we  had  so  perilous  a  demonstra 
tion.  Perhaps  in  the  diplomacy  and  the  wars  of 
civilized  people,  there  may  be  found  motives  for 
looking  charitably  upon  the  wrong-doings  of  the 
ignorant  and  undisciplined  Esquimaux.14 


CHAPTER   XXV. 

GOOD    CHEEK. 

KINGIKTOK  left  us  early  the  following  morning; 
and  in  the  evening  eleven  other  members  of  the  tribe 
came  up  from  Akbat,  on 'their  way  to  Netlik.  This 
was  the  most  lively  as  well  as  the  largest  party  that 
had  yet  visited  us.  Kalutunah  was  one  of  the  num 
ber,  and  was  as  good-natured  and  voluble  as  usual. 
He  brought  to  us  the  quarter  of  a  young  bear,  and 
received  in  payment  one  of  Petersen's  hoop-iron 
knives  ;  but  the  shrewd  fellow  had  learned  to  distin 
guish  iron  from  steel ;  and  he  did  not  seem  to  prize 
his  present  very  highly.  He  had  before  seen  one  of 
this  kind  of  knives ;  and,  having  used  it  in  trying  to 
chip  off  some  kernels  from  a  piece  of  frozen  liver,  he 
had  bent  the  instrument  double.  He  at  once  sus 
pected  the  quality  of  our  gift.  He  tried  to  cut  with 
it,  but  the  result  was  not  satisfactory.  He  then  de 
liberately  bent  it  in  the  form  of  a  letter  U;  and, 
throwing  it  on  the  ground,  he  pronounced  it,  with  a 
characteristic  grunt  of  indignation,  "  no  good."  He 
was  contented  when  we  gave  him  a  piece  of  wood 
with  which  to  patch  his  sledge. 

The  bear's  leg,  which  we  thus  added  to  our  stores, 
was  Kaluiunah's  share  of  a  hunt  from  which  the 


248  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

people  of  Akbat  had  returned  the  day  before.  Kalu- 
tunah  was  a  guest  on  the  occasion,  and,  as  such,  was 
entitled,  by  Esquimau  rule,  to  the  choice  of  pieces 
when  the  animal  was  caught. 

Our  visitors  were  four  men,  three  women,  and  four 
children.  Two  of  the  women  were  the  two  widows 
who  have  previously  figured  in  this  narrative.  Each 
of  thsm  was  accompanied  by  a  child,  —  one  of  whom 
was  about  four,  and  the  other  about  three  years  old. 
The  latter  belonged  to  the  sentimental  widow ;  and 
its  name,  being  interpreted,  signifies  "  a  mother's 
only  child."  The  mother's  fondness  for  this  stay  of 
her  old  age,  was  quite  touching ;  but  it  took  much 
from  the  poetry  of  the  scene  when  we  saw  her  strip 
off  its  furs  and  turn  it  loose  to  root  among  our  bed 
ding,  with  the  accumulated  blubber  and  soot  of  three 
years  sticking  to  its  skin. 

One  of  the  hunters  had  with  him  his  wife  and  two 
children.  He  was  "  moving ;  "  and  he  carried  all  of 
his  domestic  utensils,  together  with  his  entire  family, 
upon  his  sledge.  The  utensils  were  not  very  compli 
cated.  He  was  going  to  Netlik,  where  he  intended 
temporarily  to  quarter  in  Kalutunah's  hut,  if  he 
should  find  room  there ;  and,  if  not,  in  a  snow-house. 
One  of  his  children  was  a  girl  three  or  four  years  of 
age,  the  other  a  boy  of  about  seven.  He  informed 
us  that  one  had  died  not  long  before,  of  a  disease 
which,  from  his  description,  I  judged  to  be  pneumo 
nia,  —  a  very  common  and  very  fatal  complaint 
among  the  Esquimaux  in  the  spring  and  autumn. 

Our  hut  was  very  much  crowded,  there  being  nine 
teen  persons  within  it ;  but  we  made  it  a  point  never 
to  turn  strangers  away  from  our  door.  •  Kalutunah 


HIGH  TEMPERATURE.  249 

said,  on  his  arrival,  that  his  party  could  build  a 
snow-hut  and  sleep  in  it;  but  this  we  would  not 
permit  them  to  do. 

Two  Esquimau  lamps  were  burning  cheerily  all 
the  evening  ;  two  Esquimau  pots  hung  over  them, 
suspended  each  from  a  rafter,  and  sent  up  wreaths 
of  warm  steam ;  and  our  own  lamp  was  for  two 
hours  in  full  blast  in  the  fireplace.  These  together 
made  much  heat;  and,  added  to  this,  we  had  the 
warmth  given  off  by  our  nineteen  bodies.  The  re 
sult  was  to  elevate  the  temperature  from  29°  to  60°. 
The  hut  was  warmer  than  it  had  ever  been  before ; 
but  it  was,  altogether,  less  pleasant  than  when  the 
temperature  was  below  the  freezing-point.  When 
the  thermometer  stood  at  28°,  we  were  most  com 
fortable.  We  had  grown  so  used  to  low  tempera 
tures  that  60°  was  much  too  warm  for  us  ;  but  this 
was,  in  itself,  a  comparatively  trifling  discomfort. 
The  air  had  become  very  impure.  We  had  no  ven 
tilation  except  through  our  small  chimney,  which, 
although  sufficient  to  purify  the  atmosphere  on  ordi 
nary  occasions,  was  now  quite  inadequate  for  that 
purpose.  To  make  matters  worse  there  was  a  gen 
eral  thaw.  The  frost  overhead  melted,  and,  after 
hanging  in  long  rows  of  soot-stained  beads  on  the 
under  side  of  the  rafters,  fell,  drop  by  drop,  into  our 
faces  and  upon  our  clothing.  A  clammy  sweat  cov 
ered  the  walls,  and  here  and  there  trickled  to  the 
ground  in  spasmodic  streamlets.  We  ought  to  have 
called  the  place  Fort  Misery,  —  for  it  was  a  miser 
able  place  at  the  best  of  times. 

At  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  interior  of 
our  hut  presented  an  unusually  cheerful  scene 


250  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNE1. 

We  were  in  the  midst  of  a  plentiful  feast;  this 
time  not  at  our  expense,  —  at  least,  not  at  the 
expense  of  our  provision  stores.  Kalutunah  had 
brought  in  a  huge  chunk  of  walrus-meat  —  a  flip 
per  weighing  in  the  neighborhood  of  fifty  pounds. 
It  was  frozen  hard,  and  was  covered  with  snow. 
He  threw  it  on  the  floor  in  the  middle  of  the  hut ; 
and,  around  it,  were  soon  grouped  the  inmates. 
On  the  edge  of  the  brecks  two  women  had  in 
stalled  themselves, —  one  on  each  side  of  the  door. 
These  were  watching  their  lamps  and  kettles.  By 
the  side  of  each  lay  a  cake  of  frozen  snow;  from 
which,  from  time  to  time,  for  the  last  hour,  she 
had  been  breaking  off  pieces  and  depositing  them 
in  her  kettle,  —  melting  them  into  water  for  her 
people  to  drink.  Having  satisfied  their  thirst,  she 
then  attempted  to  heat  the  portion  which  re 
mained.  This  she  could  not  boil  by  the  feeble 
flame  of  her  lamp,  but  she  had  its  temperature,  in 
a  little  while,  elevated  to  about  190°,  which  would 
answer  to  cook  with.  The  hunters  splintered  off, 
with  our  hatchet,  some  pieces  of  meat,  and  passed 
them  to  the  women,  through  whose  management 
they  were  soon  stewing  finely,  and  smelling  lus 
ciously.  Kalutunah  was  very  fond  of  soup ;  and 
the  sentimental  widow  was  doing  her  best  to 
gratify  his  taste.  The  woman  who  attended  to 
the  other  pot  was  in  like  manner  serving  her  lord 
who  sat  near  her. 

If  the  reader  will  follow  me  into  the  hut  he  will 
see  there  a  succession  of  tableaux  which  may  be 
novel  to  him.  The  two  above-mentioned  hunters 
sit  facing  each  other,  and  facing  the  lump  of  frozen 


A  FEAST.  251 

Deef,  which  lies  upon  the  ground.  Kalutunah  has 
the  sentimental  widow  at  his  left,  and  the  other 
hunter  has  his  wife  at  his  right.  Godfrey  kneels 
in  front  of  the  fireplace,  attending  to  our  lamps, 
which  burn  there.  He  is  cooking  some  coffee,  and 
frying  some  steaks  of  bear-ham.  The  hum  of  the 
kettle  and  the  crackle  of  the  blubber  in  the  pan 
are  cheerful  sounds.  Petersen  sits  in  his  corner  by 
the  stove.  He  looks  very  demure ;  and,  although 
he  talks  nearly  all  the  time,  it  is  easy  to  see  that 
he  is  doing  it  against  his  will,  and  that  he  would 
much  prefer  to  be  quiet.  The  Esquimaux  are 
continually  asking  questions,  and  he  has  to  an 
swer  for  all  of  us ;  and  since  he  has  found  that 
the  Esquimaux  will  not  sell  us  any  dogs,  nor  go 
to  the  ship,  nor  hire  their  teams  to  us  for  that 
purpose,  he  is  not  inclined  to  be  communicative 
with  them.  The  children  are  crawling  about  over 
the  brecks ;  the  rest  of  us  are  mixed  up  indis 
criminately,  white  men  and  red  men ;  some  sitting 
on  the  edge  of  the  breck ;  some  lying  at  full  length 
upon  it ;  all  leisurely  eating ;  —  leisurely,  I  say,  for 
the  meart  is  so  icy  that  it  is  chipped  off  with  diffi 
culty,  and  we  obtain  it  only  in.  little  ^ crisp  pieces 
which  make  the  teeth  fairly  ache  with  cold.  The 
writer  of  this  sits  behind  Kalutunah,  from  whom 
he  receives  alternate  mouthfuls. 

An  hour  later  and  the  soup  has  been  drunk ; 
the  coffee  has  passed  around ;  the  stew  and  the 
fry  have  disappeared ;  but  the  feast  is  far  from 
ended.  Scarcely  an  impression  has  yet  been  made 
upon  the  walrus  flipper ;  but  the  warmth  of  the 
hut  has  partially  thawed  it,  and  the  knives  pene 


252  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

trate  it  more  readily,  and  strips  can  be  cut  off. 
These  now  fly  about  in  all  directions.  Everybody 
has  one.  The  strip  may  be  three  inches,  or  it 
may  be  a  foot  in  length ;  its  width  two  inches, 
and  its  thickness  one  inch.  The  feeder  takes  one 
end  of  it  in  his  mouth,  and  seizing,  between  his 
teeth,  a  convenient  portion,  he  cuts  it  off  close  to 
his  lips,  and  then  swallows  it  as  quickly  as  possi 
ble,  and  repeats  the  process.  Having  taken  two  or 
three  bites  of  meat  he  then  takes  one  of  blubber. 
The  red  men  have  taught  the  white  men  how  to 
flourish  the  knife,  and  what  is  the  proper  motion 
to  insure  safety  to  the  lips.  The  walrus-meat  is 
very  juicy,  and  is  also  very  dark.  The  faces  and 
hands  of  all  of  us  are  covered  with  blood;  and 
but  for  the  beards  on  the  faces  of  some  of  us,  it 
would  be  difficult  to  distinguish  the  civilized  men 
from  the  savages.  The  children  have  each  a  strip 
of  beef  and  blubber,  and  are  disposing  of  these 
equally  with  the  best  of  us.  The  seven-year-old 
stands  with  his  back  against  the  post,  straddling 
-'across  one  corner  of  the  flipper,  rapidly  shortening 
a  slice  which  his  father  has  given  him.  His  body 
is  naked  to  the  waist,  as  indeed  are  the  bodies  of 
all  our  guests.  His  face  and  his  hands  are  red 
with  the  thick  fluid  which  he  squeezes  from  the 
spongy  meat,  and  which  streams  down  his  arms, 
and  drops  from  his  chin  upon  his  distended  abdo 
men,  over  the  hemispherical  surface  of  which  it 
courses,  leaving  crimson  stains  behind. 

Still  an  hour  later  and  there  is  nothing  left 
upon  the  floor  but  a  well-picked  bone ;  and  we 
have  wiped  our  hands  with  the  bird-skins  which 


LEARNING  TO   COUNT.  253 

the  widow  has  torn  from  the  lumme  of  which 
she  has  made  her  supper.  As  usual,  she  had  her 
feast  alone ;  and  with  little  assistance  she  has  con 
sumed  six  birds,  each  as  large  as  a  young  pullet. 

We  have  now  established  the  most  friendly  rela 
tions.  When  does  not  good  cheer  make  good  spir 
its  ?  Mr.  Sonntag  sits  behind  me ;  and,  true  to 
his  profession,  is  questioning  one  of  the  hunters 
about  their  astronomy.  Godfrey  is  amusing  the 
women  and  children  with  a  negro  song,  keeping 
time  with  an  imaginary  banjo.  I  am  seated  be 
side  Kalutunah,  and  we  are  teaching  each  other 
scraps  of  our  widely  different  languages.  Bonsall 
is  at  my  side,  looking  on,  and  helping.  I  try  to 
get  the  savage  to  articulate  YES  and  NO,  and  to 
teach  him  of  what  Esquimau  words  they  are  equiv 
alents.  He  pronounces  "ees"  and  "  noe,"  after 
several  efforts,  and  says,  inquiringly,  "  tyma  ? " 
(right?).  I  nod  my  head  and  say  "tyma,"  to  en 
courage  him ;  whereupon  he  laughs  heartily  at  my 
bad  pronunciation  of  his  word. 

We  make  an  effort  to  count.  He  gets  "  une  "  for 
ONE,  and  an  immensely  hard  "  too  "  for  TWO  ;  but 
he  cannot  manage  the  th,  of  THREE.  In  return  he 
teaches  me  to  count  in  his  language.  I  cannot  quite 
pronounce  as  he  does ;  but  he  pats  me  on  the  back 
in  a  very  encouraging  manner,  as  much  as  to  say 
"well  done,"  and  repeats  "tyma"  to  me  over  and 
over  again.  We  go  on  through  the  series  with 
much  laughing  and  many  tymas  ;  with  thumps  on 
my  back  from  him,  and  from  me  reproachful  punches 
in  his  ribs,  and  encouraging  twitches  of  his  left  ear ; 
until,  at  length,  we  have  reached  ten.  His  people 

22 


254  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT   TOURNEY. 

do  not  count  further,  and  Petersen  tells  me  that  any 
number  beyond  ten,  whether  much  or  little,  is  called 
by  a  general  name. 

Sonntag's  investigations  in  astronomy  show  some 
curious  results.  He  and  Petersen  have  been  asking 
questions  about  the  sun,  moon,  and  stars.  It  appears 
that  these  heavenly  bodies  are  spirits  of  departed 
Esquimaux,  or  of  some  of  the  lower  animals.  The 
sun  and  moon  are,  brother  and  sister.  The  story  of 
their  origin  is  this  :  — 

In  a  distant  country  there  once  lived  an  unmarried 
woman  who  had  several  brothers.  Being  once  at  a 
festive  gathering,  she  felt  herself  suddenly  and  vio 
lently  seized  by  the  shoulders.  This  she  well  knew 
was  a  declaration  of  love,  for  such  is  the  custom  of 
her  people ;  but  who  the  man  was  she  could  not  dis 
cover,  since  the  hut  was  quite  dark.  There  being  to 
her  knowledge  no  men  in  the  village,  beside  her 
brothers,  she  at  once  suspected  that  it  must  be  one 
of  these.  She  broke  from  him,  and,  running  away, 
smeared  her  hand  with  soot  and  oil.  Upon  return 
ing  to  the  hut  she  was  seized  again,  and  this  time 
she  blackened  one  side  of  the  face  of  her  unknown 
lover.  A  lighted  taper  being  brought  soon  afterward, 
her  suspicions  were  confirmed.  She  then  cut  off  her 
breasts,  and,  throwing  them  at  him,  exclaimed  "  if 
thou  holdest  rightly  eat  that."  Seizing  the  taper  she 
now  ran  out  of  the  hut,  and  bounded  over  the  rocks 
with  the  fleetness  of  a  deer.  Her  brother  lighted 
a  taper  and  pursued  her,  but  his  light  soon  went 
out,  yet  he  still  continued  the  chase,  and,  without 
having  overtaken  her,  they  came  to  the  end  of  the 
earth.  Determined  not  to  be  caught,  the  girl  then 


ASTRONOMICAL   FABLES.  255 

sprang  out  into  the  heavens.  Her  brother  followed 
her ;  but  he  stumbled  while  in  the  act  of  springing, 
and,  before  he  could  recover  himself,  the  object  of 
his  pursuit  was  far  away  from  him.  Still  bent  upon 
gaining  the  prize,  he  continued  the  race  ;  and, 'from 
that  time  until  this,  the  sun  has  been  going  around 
and  around,  and  the  moon  around  and  around  after 
her  trying  still  to  catch  her.  The  bright  light  of  the 
sun  is  caused  by  the  taper  which  the  maiden  carries ; 
while  the  moon,  having  lost  his  taper,  is  cold,  and 
could  not  be  seen  but  for  his  sister's  light.  One  side 
of  his  face,  being  smeared  with  soot,  is  therefore 
black,  while  the  other  side  is  clean ;  and  he  turns 
one  side  or  the  other  towards  the  earth  as  suits  his 
pleasure. 

That  cluster  of  stars  in  "  Ursa  Major,"  which  we 
designate  as  "  the  dipper,"  they  call  a  herd  of  ^ look- 
took^  (reindeer).  The  stars  of  "  Orion's  belt,"  seen 
far  away  in  the  south,  are  seal-hunters  who  have  lost 
their  way.  The  "  Pleiades  "  are  a  pack  of  dogs  in 
pursuit  of  a  bear.  Other  clusters  and  other  stars 
have  other  names.  The  aurora  borealis  is  caused  by 
the  spirits  at  play  with  one  another.  Rain  is  the 
overflowing  of  the  heavenly  lakes  on  the  ever-green 
banks  of  which  live  the  happy  spirits  who  have  taken 
up  their  abode  in  the  skies,  where  sunshine  and  sum 
mer  are  eternal.  These  happy  spirits  have  abun 
dance  to  eat  without  the  trouble  of  catching  it. 

The  Esquimaux  are  close  observers  of  the  move 
ments  of  the  stars.  We  went  out  toward  midnight 
to  look  after  the  dogs,  and  Petersen  asked  Kalutunah 
when  his  party  intended  to  go.  He  pointed  to  a  star 
which  stood  almost  directly  over  Saunders  Island,  in 


256  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

the  south ;  and,  carrying  his  finger  around  to  the 
west,  he  pointed  to  another  star,  saying,  "  when  that 
star  gets  where  that  one  is  we  will  start." 

Our  guests  being  tired,  we  fitted  up  for  them  such 
accommodations  as  were  within  our  power,  and  they 
were  soon  asleep.  With  so  many  to  provide  for  we 
were  obliged  to  remit  somewhat  of  our  fastidious 
ness  ;  yet  we  would  not  allow  them  to  touch  the  in 
side  of  our  blankets ;  nor  could  we  lie  down  with 
them ;  and  we  therefore  passed  the  night  awake, 
solaced  by  an  extra  cup  of  coffee,  and  a  fresh  supply 
from  Bonsall's  tobacco-box.  Refreshed  by  our  recent 
meal,  and  encouraged  by  the  sight  of  materials  upon 
the  shelf  for  a  dozen  more,  we  experienced  new  life 
and  resolution. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

FURTHER  PLANS. 

I  TAKE  up  the  narrative  again  on  the  16th  of  No 
vember.  Two  eventless  days  have  passed  since  the 
Esquimaux  left  us.  We  have  in  the  interval  grown 
much  stronger.  Our  daily  ration  per  man  has  been 
about  two  pounds.  This  has  not  been  sufficient  to 
satisfy  our  appetites,  which  have  craved  vegetable 
food  ;  but  it  is  ample  to  sustain  us  in  health,  and  to 
slowly  recuperate  our  lost  energies. 

The  absence  of  all  vegetable  food  is  a  source  of 
suffering  to  us  which  can  hardly  be  appreciated  by 
those  who  have  not  had  a  somewhat  similar  experi 
ence.  Our  stomachs,  hitherto  used  to  a  more  bulky 
diet,  do  not  readily  become  accustomed  to  the  new 
order  of  things  ;  so  that,  while  eating  enough  for 
health  and  strength,  we  are  always  hungry. 

The  natives  live  upon  an  exclusively  animal  diet ; 
but  they  consume  it  in  larger  quantities  than  could 
be  afforded  by  us.  Their  daily  allowance  of  food  I 
should  estimate  at  from  twelve  to  fifteen  pounds ; 
about  one  third  of  it  being  fat,  —  the  blubber  mainly 
of  the  walrus,  the  seal>  and  the  narwhal.  In  times  of 
plenty,  they  eat  more  than  that  quantity ;  in  times 
of  scarcity,  less.  Being  exceedingly  improvident, 

22* 


258  AN   ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

and  having  rarely  stores  reserved  sufficient  to  sup 
ply  them  during  two  weeks,  they  are  often  in  want. 
At  such  times,  however,  it  must  be  conceded  that 
they  exhibit  a  commendable  spirit  of  cheerfulness 
and  philosophical  resignation ;  and  when  they  are 
again  successful  in  the  hunt,  they  make  up  for  lost 
time  by  a  series  of  stupefying  feasts.  I  have  seen 
an  Esquimau,  upon  returning  from  a  long  and  ex 
posed  hunt,  or  when  about  to  commence  a  difficult 
journey,  eat  at  a  single  meal,  prolonged  through 
several  hours,  fully  ten  pounds  of  walrus-flesh  and 
blubber. 

It  is  in  his  generally  large  consumption  of  food 
that  the  Esquimau  hunter  finds  his  shield  against 
the  cold.  I  do  not  believe  that  he  could  live  upon  a 
vegetable  diet.  JTaste,  with  the  pleasures  which  it 
brings,  has  very  little  to  do  with  his  meal ;  and  he 
takes  food  through  his  capacious  jaws  with  much 
the  same  passiveness  as  that  of  a  locomotive  when 
receiving  coal  from  the  shovel  of  a  fireman  ;  and  the 
cases  are  parallel.  In  the  latter,  the  carbonaceous 
coal  is  burned  up  in  the  furnace  to  make  heat,  to 
make  steam  to  start  the  wheels.  In  the  former,  the 
carbonaceous  blubber  and  flesh  are  burned  up  in 
the  lungs  to  make  heat,  to  make  steam,  to  start  the 
hunt.  Feed  the  locomotive  on  willow-twigs,  and  on 
a  frosty  morning  it  will  be  very  likely  to  cease  its 
operations ;  feed  the  Esquimau  hunter  on  wheat 
bread  or  maccaroni,  and  he  will  quickly  freeze  to 
death. 

The  same  laws  govern  the  Esquimaux   and  the 
white  men ;  and  exposed  as  we  were  to  tempera 
tures  so  low,  living  chiefly  in  an  atmosphere  vary- 
l 


ANIMAL  FOOD.  259 

ing  from  zero  to  the  freezing-point,  and  subjected 
during  a  part  of  the  day  to  a  temperature  ranging 
from  zero  to  sixty  degrees  below  it,  we  found  our 
selves  continually  craving  a  strong  animal  diet,  and 
especially  fatty  substances.  The  blubber  of  the  wal 
rus,  the  seal,  and  the  narwhal  was  always  grateful  to 
us ;  and  in  its  frozen  condition  it  was  far  from  un 
pleasant  to  the  taste.  I  have  frequently  seen  mem 
bers  of  the  party  drink  the  contents  of  our  oil-kettle 
with  evident  relish.  One  of  our  number  was  es 
pecially  notorious  for  his  depredations  in  this  quar 
ter  ;  and,  as  the  manufacture  of  oil  from  blubber 
was  attended  with  the  consumption  of  an  amount 
of  fuel  which  we  could  ill  spare,  we  were  compelled 
to  pass  a  formal  vote,  guarding  the  oil-kettle  by  ex 
cluding  it  from  the  cuisine. 

At  the  time  of  which  I  write  we  were  all  in  good 
health,  except  Stephenson  ;  and  his  troubles  were 
not  immediately  caused  by  our  mode  of  life,  although 
they  were  greatly  aggravated  thereby.  I  have  ex 
plained  in  a  former  chapter  that  his  disease,  which 
was  a  functional  derangement  of  the  heart,  (peri- 
cardial  effusion,)  was  originally  the  result  of  re 
peated  attacks  of  scurvy,  from  which  he  suffered 
while  on  board  the  Advance.  Although  the  cause 
was  entirely  removed,  the  return  of  its  unpleasant 
consequences  was  from  time  to  time  threatened  ; 
sometimes  with  fearful  results.  The  remaining 
members  of  the  party  had  all,  like  him,  been  more 
or  less  affected  by  the  scurvy  while  on  shipboard  ; 
but  every  trace  of  the  disease  had  by  this  time  dis 
appeared  from  our  systems,  and  we  were  in  as  good 
condition  as  men  could  well  be  who  were  living  so 


260  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

irregularly ;  subsisting  upon  a  diet  varying  so  much 
from  week  to  week  and  from  day  to  day  in  quantity 
and  quality. 

In  view  of  this  fact,  I  think  T  hazard  nothing  in 
saying,  that  probably  no  climate  in  the  world  has 
less  tendency  to  develop  scurvy  than  that  of  the 
Arctic  regions,  provided  that  the  proper  kind  of 
food  is  used  by  the  residents  in  it.  This  food  must 
be  chiefly  animal,  largely  fat,  abundant  in  quantity, 
and  mainly  free  from  salt.  The  Esquimaux  are  ex 
empt  from  the  disease,  although  they  disregard  all 
of  our  ordinary  hygienic  laws ;  and  I  arn  satisfied 
that,  with  our  present  knowledge  and  experience, 
scurvy  need  not  be  the  formidable  scourge  which  it 
was  in  former  times,  —  if,  indeed,  it  need  be  known 
at  all  on  board  of  vessels  wintering  in  the  Arctic 
seas.  Altogether  the  climate  is  one  of  remarkable 
healthfulness ;  for,  were  it  otherwise,  living  as  we 
did  in  our  close  hut,  we  must  have  been  attacked 
by  disease. 

Our  newly  acquired  physical  energies  fitted  us 
for  again  attempting  something,  either  for  the  suc 
cess  of  our  southern  scheme,  or  for  our  deliverance. 
Petersen  again  proposed  to  renew  the  attempt  to  go 
to  the  ship,  provided  that  we  could  obtain  a  team  of 
dogs.  His  plan  was,  to  start  when  the  moon  should 
have  returned,  and,  avoiding  Netlik,  go  directly  to 
Northumberland  Island,  where  there  was  reason  to 
believe  Kingiktok  or  Amalatok  would  join  him ; 
thence  proceeding  northward,  with  all  dispatch,  he 
would  reach  the  Advance,  and  return  before  the  moon 
should  have  set.  He  would  need  one  companion,  and 
would  go  well  armed ;  and  he  thought  that  he  could 


ESQUIMAU   BEARDS.  261 

make  the  journey  to  and  fro  in  twelve  days.  His 
proposition  was  favorably  received,  and  BonsalPs 
offer  to  accompany  him  was  accepted.  There  were 
several  reasons  to  make  this  satisfactory ;  the  most 
prominent  being  the  facts  that  he  was,  Petersen  per 
haps  excepted,  the  most  'hardy  man  of  the  party  ; 
and  that,  to  as  great  a  degree  as  any  member  of 
it,  he  possessed  those  necessary  qualities  for  such  an 
emergency,  —  courage,  caution,  and  energy. 

An  old  man  whom  we  had  not  before  seen,  arrived 
the  next  day,  from  one  of  the  settlements  far  up 
Whale  Sound.  He  brought  us  a  small  addition  to 
our  store  of  provisions ;  and  he  received  from  us 
some  presents.  He  had  been  hunting  bears,  and 
had  a  long  story  to  tell,  which  he  did  with  the  usual 
accompaniment  of  violent  gesticulation,  about  his 
having  followed  the  track  of  a  Nanooksoak  (large 
bear)  down  into  Booth  Bay,  where  he  lost  it  on  ac 
count  of  the  darkness.  He  asked  to  be  allowed  to 
remain  until  it  grew  lighter,  when  he  would  continue 
the  pursuit.  The  request  was  of  course  granted ;  and, 
having  given  him  a  supper,  which,  as  to  quantity,  is 
best  described  by  saying  that  it  was  an  Esquimau 
one,  we  put  him  to  bed. 

This  man  was  the  only  member  of  the  tribe  that  I 
had  seen  who  possessed  what  could  properly  be  called 
a  beard.  He  had  upon  his  chin  and  upper  lip  a  re 
spectable  growth  of  hairs,  which  were  silvered  with 
age.  They  probably  did  not  show  themselves  until 
long  after  the  man  had  arrived  at  years  of  maturity ; 
for  the  faces  of  the  young  men,  and  indeed  of  the 
greater  number  of  the  middle-aged  who  visited  us, 
were  as  innocent  of  beard  as  a  woman's. 


262  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

Shunghu  (for  such  was  the  name  of  our  visit 
or)  had  scarcely  fallen  asleep,  when  there  was  an 
other  arrival  —  a  man,  a  woman,  and  a  child.  The 
man  called  himself  "  Tattarat,"  ( Kitty  wake-gull ;)  he 
came  from  Imnanak  (Cape  York),  and  was  moving 
northward  with  his  family.  He  told  us  that  the 
people  of  Akbat,  and  the  only  family  besides  his 
own  then  living  at  his  settlement,  were  preparing  to 
do  likewise.  This  was  in  consequence  of  the  failure 
of  the  southern  hunting-grounds.  The  sea  to  the 
westward  of  Cape  York  was  completely  closed  ;  and 
the  unusual  severity  of  the  season  was  likely  to  render 
a  residence  south  of  Netlik,  during,  the  winter,  ex 
tremely  hazardous.  They  had  not,  for  many  years, 
known  such  a  winter.  It  had  set  in  a  "  half-moon  " 
earlier  than  usual.  This  report  confirmed  our.  own 
conclusions,  and  our  residence  at  Booth  Bay  was 
clearly  the  result  of  this  freak  of  nature.  Had  the 
season  remained  open  two  weeks  longer,  we  should, 
in  all  probability,  have  reached  Upernavik ! 

The  favorite  hunting-grounds  of  the  Esquimaux 
of  this  coast,  are  about  Cape  Alexander;  at  which 
place,  and  immediately  south,  southwest,  and  west 
of  it,  the  sea  is  always  more  or  less  free  from  ice. 
When  the  distance  from  their  permanent  residences, 
such  as  Netlik,  Akbat,  &c.,  to  this  water,  becomes 
inconveniently  great,  in  consequence  of  the  grad 
ual  widening  of  the  land-belt,  they  move  up  toward 
this  cape,  and  camp  in  snow-houses,  which  they 
build  at  some  eligible  spot  upon  the  land,  or  upon 
the  ice,  within  a  few  hours  travel  of  the  usual  resorts 
of  game.  It  does  not  often  happen  that  they  are 
compelled  .to  do  this ;  although  for  the  sake  of  the 


PURCHASE  OF  DOGS.  263 

interchange  of  friendly  greetings,  the  inhabitants  of 
the  southern  settlements  generally  move  northward 
for  a  short  portion  of  the  winter  season.  They  re 
turn  before  the  ice  breaks  up,  and  while  they  can 
still  travel. 

This  early  moving  up  from  Cape  York  looked 
unpromising  for  us,  and  the  knowledge  of  the  fact 
did  much  to  shake  our  faith  in  the  practicability  of 
our  resolution  to  go  thither. 

Our  visitors  remained  with  us  through  the  night ; 
and,  at  eight  o'clock  next  morning,  at  which  time 
there  was  a  little  increase  of  light,  they  went  out  in 
search. of  the  bear  whose  tracks  Shunghu  had  discov 
ered  the  evening  before.  They  returned,  unsuccess 
ful,  after  an  absence  of  about  two  hours.  A  light 
wind  had  covered  the  tracks  with  drift. 

We  now  made  a  proposal  for  the  purchase  of 
dogs;  but  for  a  time  we  despaired  of  having  bet 
ter  fortune  than  on  former  occasions.  At  length, 
the  exhibition  of  an  old  harpoon  and  Bonsall's  shin 
ing  hunting-knife  was  effective,  and  the  hunters 
promptly  offered,  each,  two  dogs.  Tattarat  received 
the  harpoon,  and  Shunghu  the  knife,  and  both  par 
ties  were  well  pleased  with  the  bargain.  Tattarat 
would  have  sold  us  another  animal,  but  he  had  only 
four  left,  and  had  a  heavily  laden  sledge  to  drag  to 
Netlik.  Shunghu  also  would  have  disposed  of  two 
more,  but  the  remainder  of  the  team  belonged  to 
his  son,  and  he  could  not  part  with  any  of  them 
without  first  consulting  the  boy.  Our  visitors  left 
us  at  noon. 

The  history  of  the  next  few  days  will  have  little 
interest  for  the  reader,  except  a?  it  points  to  our 


264  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

future  plans  and  proceedings,  and  I  therefore  resort 
again  to  the  more  condensed  diary  form. 

November  19^/i.  A  southerly  gale  kept  us  within 
doors  this  day.  The  wind  was  accompanied  by 
light  squalls  of  snow  and  heavy  drift.  The  outside 
temperature  reached  as  high  as  twelve  degrees  below 
zero;  and  a  sensible  effect  was  soon  produced  upon 
the  atmosphere  of  the  hut. 

Petersen  commenced  the  manufacture  of  a  sledge 
for  his  contemplated  journey ;  such  of  us  as  could, 
helping  him. 

The  dogs  did  not  seem  to  be  satisfied  with  their 
change  of  quarters.  They  were  howling  piteously 
all  day,  and  trying  to  break  loose.  We  fed  them  on 
walrus-hide. 

November  20th.  The  sledge  was  nearly  finished 
this  evening.  The  runners  were  made  of  the 
thwarts  of  the  Hope,  and  the  cross-pieces  of  wood 
from  the  same  source.  There  remains  only  to  put 
soles  on  the  runners,  and  to  lash  the  whole  together. 
This  last  is  the  work  of  an  hour,  and  is  not  required 
immediately.  The  soles  involve  greater  difficulty ; 
we  have  nothing  suitable  for  them.  Hoop-iron  and 
a  piece  of  moderately  hard  wood  are  all  that  can  be 
made  available. 

We  are  again  getting  short  of  provisions,  and 
look  anxiously  for  the  Esquimaux. 

November  21st.  Breakfasted  on  our  last  piece 
of  walrus-beef.  Petersen  brought  from  the  traps  a 
fox  which  served  us  for  supper.  This  was  a  piece 


SCANTY  FOOD.  265 

of  unlooked-for  good  fortune,  for  we  had  given  up 
all  hope  of  getting  anything  from  that  source.  Ste- 
phenson,  who  has  been  cheered  and  comforted  by 
our  tea,  received  to-day  the  last  of  it. 

November  22d.  Light  snow  and  a  southerly 
wind.  The  thermometer  stands  outside  of  the 
hut  at  zero,  and  inside  of  it  at  40°.  The  tem 
perature  has  been  gradually  rising  during  the  past 
three  days. 

Toward  evening  it  began  to  snow  violently,  and 
soon  afterward  a  furious  gale  howled  across  the  ice 
fields.  The  wind  brought  in  an  unusually  high  flood- 
tide,  which,  together  with  the  increased  warmth,  in 
dicate  the  existence  of  a  large  body  of  open  water 
not  far  away. 

We  had  for  breakfast  this  day  one  bird,  which 
was  cut  into  four  pieces.  The  half  of  one  of  these 
would  scarcely  give  a  mouthful  to  each  person,  so 
we  tossed  up  for  the  quarters.  The  unlucky  four 
contented  themselves  with  their  coffee.  Another  un 
expected  fox  furnished  us  a  supper. 

November  23d.  Breakfasted  this  morning  on 
a  soup  made  of  some  rejected  bones.  Afterward 
the  traps  were  visited,  but  there  was  no  fox  to 
day. 

The  snow  was  knee-deep  over  the  plain,  and 
the  traps  were  filled  with  drift.  It  was  a  tedious 
task  to  put  them  in  order  again.  This  cold  work 
gave  us  an  appetite  to  attack  a  piece  of  spoiled 
meat,  which  some  cunning  savage  had  palmed 
upon  us  for  fresh.  Being  frozen,  its  condition  did 

28 


266  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

not  affect  our  olfactories  ;  and  its  bad  taste  was  pai- 
tially  destroyed  by  some  citric  acid,  a  small  vial  of 
which  I  had  brought  with  me,  to  use,  if  occasion  re 
quired,  as  an  antiscorbutic. 

November  24th.  Breakfasted  on  a  cup  of  coffee. 
Later  in  the  day  we  boiled  together  some  blubber 
and  stone-moss,  which  made  us  all  sick. 

In  the  afternoon  two  Esquimau  hunters  arrived 
from  Akbat.  We  bought  of  them  three  birds,  upon 
which  we  supped.  They  had  nothing  else  upon 
their  sleds.  They  would  not  sell  any  dogs,  and 
they  remained  but  a  short  time.  One  of  them  said 
that  he  had  a  sledge  at  home  which  he  would  gladly 
trade  for  ours,  and  promised  to  return  with  it  the 
following  day ;  but  we  have  become  so  well  accus 
tomed  to  Esquimau  promises  that  we  have  very 
little  faith  in  them. 

Petersen  shod,  with  some  strips  of  hard  wood,  the 
runners  which  he  had  made. 


CHAPTER    XXVII. 

PREPARATIONS  FOR,  ABANDONING  THE  HUT. 

THE  reader  will  fail  to  appreciate  the  events 
which  have  been  narrated,  and  the  apparently 
shifting  purposes  of  our  party,  unless  he  recalls 
from  time  to  time  the  motives  and  circumstances 
which  were  explained  in  the  opening  chapter  of 
this  history.  After  full  deliberation,  and  with  the 
advice  of  the  person  most  experienced  in  arctic  ice, 
we  had  set  out  in  the  belief  that  the  separation 
of  the  brig's  company  was  important  to  the  pres 
ervation  of  its  members.  To  secure  the  main  ob 
ject  of  our  journey  we  had  constantly  striven ;  and 
our  hope  was  not  suffered  to  relax  while  there 
remained  apparent  the  slightest  possibility  of  its 
accomplishment.  When  forced  to  think  of  replen 
ishing  our  stores  from  the  brig,  in  which  there  was 
abundance  of  salt  food  for  her  entire  company,  we 
still  avoided  a  re-union  of  the  parties,  trusting  to 
our  ability  to  complete  the  execution  of  our  princi 
pal  design.  It  was  no  time  for  judgment  upon  the 
abstract  prudence  of  such  ventures  as  we  were  mak 
ing.  Our  undertaking  was,  from  its  first  step,  con 
fessedly  a  desperate  one,  the  result  of  desperate 
circumstances ;  and  it  must  be  prosecuted  while 


268  AN   ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY, 

we  could  flatter  ourselves  with  the  least  ray  of 
promise  on  the  side  of  its  ultimate  success.  We 
promoted  every  favorable  suggestion,  keeping  up 
our  spirits  by  mutual  encouragement,  until  perse 
verance  ceased  to  be  justifiable. 

During  the  progress  of  Petersen's  labors  upon 
the  sledge,  we  reviewed  our  means  of  judgment ; 
and  endeavoring  of  course  to  avoid  the  extreme 
of  rashness,  we  estimated  anew  the  force  of  the 
various  considerations  proper  to  our  situation.  We 
were  entirely  out  of  food,  and  the  movements  pf 
the-  Esquimaux  warned  us  of  harder  times  coming. 
When  we  arranged  our  plans  for  going  to  Cape 
York,  we  had  relied  for  assistance  upon  the  natives 
at  that  place ;  but  they  had  now  all  gone  away,  or 
were  about  to  go.  The  conclusion  was  forced  upon 
us,  that  we  could  not  winter  at  Booth  Bay ;  and 
this  last  .resort  failing,  we  were  compelled  to  accept 
the  consequence,  that  our  ultimate  object  was  hope 
less.  A  return  to  the  brig  upon  one  side  —  inevi 
table  death  upon  the  other  —  were  now,  beyond 
all  question,  the  only  alternatives. 

The  return  to  our  comrades  at  Rensselaer  Har 
bor  was  first  proposed  while  we  were  picking 
bones  for  breakfast  on  the  23d ;  and  the  wisdom 
of  that  proposal  was  confirmed  in  our  minds  next 
morning,  when  it  was  discussed  over  our  coffee, 
and  moss  and  blubber  soup. 

Our  plan  was  to  set  out  as  soon  as  the  moon 
should  give  light  enough  to  guide  us  on  the  way, 
it  being  now  almost  as  dark  at  noon-day  as  at 
midnight.  We  would  obtain  two  more  dogs,  thus 
completing  a  team  of  six,  which  it  was  thought 


INSUFFICIENT   CLOTHING.  269 

would  readily  drag  our  sledge  laden  with  the  very 
trifling  cargo  required,  and  with  Stephenson  who 
was  unable  to  walk.  We  would  make  directly 
for  Northumberland  Island,  stopping  once  on  the 
way  and  camping  in  a  snow-house.  For  each  per 
son,  therefore,  a  pair  of  blankets  would  be  needed. 

This  plan  was  of  course  to  take  precedence  of 
In  at  previously  arranged,  by  which  Petersen  and 
Bonsall  were  to  be  the  principal  actors  ;  but,  like 
that,  its  execution  was  dependent  upon  the  Esqui 
maux.  We  could  do  nothing  without  more  dogs. 

Preparations  for  departure  were  immediately  com 
menced.  That  all  of  us  would  live  to  reach  Rens- 
selaer  Harbor  seemed'  highly  improbable  ;  yet  there 
was  some  comfort  in  looking  forward  to  a  strug 
gle  which  would  relieve  us  from  our  present  uncer 
tainty,  and  speedily  decide  our  fortunes. 

Our  real  wants  were  many ;  but  it  is  scarcely 
necessary  to  say  that  these  could  be  only  meagrely 
supplied.  Our  clothing  was  wholly  insufficient  for 
such  a  journey  as  was  contemplated.  Only  three 
of  our  number  possessed  complete  suits  of  fur. 
Each  of  us  had,  fortunately,  a  coat  or  "  Jumper " 
as  we  called  it,  (the  Esquimau  hooded  Kapetak,) 
of  seal  or  reindeer-pelts  ;  and  three  of  us  had 
pantaloons  of  the  same  material;  but  the  panta 
loons  of  the  other  five  were  of  cloth  or  canvas, 
now  well  worn.  Only  skin  clothing  is  adequate 
to  resist  the  intense  cold  and  piercing  winds  of 
the  arctic  deserts! 

We  had  no  effective  resource  but  our  buffalo 
robes.  It  will  be  remembered  by  the  reader  that 
when  we  first  took  up  our  quarters  in  the  hut,  these 

23  * 


270  AN  AKCT1C  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

were  spread  upon  the  "  brecks ; "  and  there  they 
had  remained  ever  since.  For  nearly  two  months 
they  had  served  as  a  thin  pad  ta  cover  the  stones 
and  gravel  on  which  we  slept.  To  these  they  were 
found  to  be  in  places  tightly  frozen ;  and  their 
edges  were  glued  by  ice  to  the  walls,  so  that  it 
was  not  without  some  difficulty  that  they  were 
removed.  We  were  obliged  to  cut  away  several 
kettles  full  of  ice  before  they  would  let  go  their 
hold  upon  the  stones.  This  ice  was  formed  by  the 
vapor  which  had  been  condensed  upon  the  walls, 
and  which,  melting  from  time  to  time  as  the  tem 
perature  of  the  hut  became  elevated,  trickled  down 
to  a  lower  and  colder  level  where  it  was  again 
frozen.  A  large  lump  had  thus  accumulated  close 
behind  Mr.  Bonsall,  and  one  corner  of  his  blanket 
had  become  imbedded  in  it.  We  called  it  by  way 
of  distinction,  "  BonsalPs  glacier."  We  had  also 
a  "  Petersen's  glacier,"  and  a  "  John's  glacier." 
Petersen's  was  at  his  feet,  and  John's  was  at  his 
head. 

When  taken  up,  the  robes  were  found  to  be  coat 
ed  on  the  under-side  with  frost,  in  consequence  of 
which  many  pebbles  adhered  to  them.  It  was, 
therefore,  necessary  to  suspend  them  from  the  raf 
ters  for  a  few  hours  before  they  were  in  a  suitable 
condition  to  be  worked  upon. 

We  slept  now  with  two  thicknesses  of  blanket 
between  our  bodies  and  the  stones  and  pebbles,  and 
we  were  not  much  benefited  or  refreshed  thereby. 

The  "  buffaloes "  being  partially  dried,  we  com 
menced  our  tailoring  operations  on  the  twenty-fifth, 
after  a  breakfast  of  strong  coffee.  John  was  master- 


TAILOKING.  271 

workman.  The  skins  were  spread  over  a  breck,  and 
he  cut  out  the  garments  after  a  style  peculiarly  his 
own,  —  a  mixture  of  the  fashions  which  prevail  at 
Paris  and  at  Netlik.  The  pieces  a?  they  were  cut 
out  were  taken  by  different  members  of  the  party, 
and  we  were  all  soon  engaged,  with  "  palm  and 
needle,"  sewing  up  the  seams  of  stockings,  panta 
loons,  and  mittens.  It  was  cold  work,  but  we 
should  not  so  much  have  minded  this  had  we  not 
been  gnawed  by  a  merciless  hunger. 

Three  of  the  party  whose  education  in  this  de 
partment  of  useful  art  had  been  sadly  neglected, 
were  put  under  the  tutorage  of  Petersen.  One  of 
these  got  on  well  enough,  for  he  had  had  a  little 
previous  experience  ;  but  the  two  others  had  a  sorry 
time  of  it.  If  their  fingers  had  not  been  so  stiff 
and  benumbed  they  would,  doubtless,  have  succeed 
ed  better ;  but,  as  it  was,  they  could  never  get  the 
awkward  "palm"  in  proper  contact  with  the  but- 
end  of  the  needle ;  in  consequence  of  which  the 
latter  frequently  slipped  from  its  thimble,  and  made 
ugly  holes  in  their  hands.  By  common  consent,  a 
less  difficult  task  was  assigned  to  them,  that  of 
scorching  coffee  for  the  journey.  As  the  browned 
beans  were  poured  out  of  the  saucepan,  they  were 
ground  in  a  canvas  bag  by  pounding  with  the 
hatchet. 

As  the  temperature  of  our  hut  was  25°,  the  sew 
ers  were  often  obliged  to  stop  in  their  work,  and 
strike  their  hands  upon  their  backs  to  maintain  the 
requisite  degree  of  suppleness. 

Coffee  was  now  even  a  greater  luxury  to  us  than 
it  had  been  before ;  and  we  drank  it  from  time  to 


272  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

time  through  the  day.  Fortunately  we  had  plenty 
of  it ;  and  now  that  we  were  about  to  abandon  the 
hut,  much  more  than  we  should  need.  It  had  all 
been  well  soaked  in  the  sea,  and  was  a  little  brack 
ish  ;  but  we  had  become  used  to  that.  It  did  much 
to  supply  the  place  of  food  ;  and,  although  possess 
ing  no  nutritive  qualities  itself,  yet  its  well-known 
power  of  arresting  the  wasting  processes  of  the  ani 
mal  economy,  aided  greatly  to  support  our  strength. 
Its  stimulating  qualities  were  also  useful.  Our  ex 
perience  at  this  period  convinces  me  that,  to  men 
living  on  short  allowance  of  food,  in  a  cold  climate, 
where  special  stimuli  are  required,  there  is  nothing 
as  valuable  as  coffee.  To  arctic  travellers,  spirits, 
in  any  form,  are  in  almost  every  case  worse  than 
useless  ;  while  coffee  is  always  grateful,  and  always 
beneficial. 

At  the  close  of  our  first  day's  tailoring  we  supped 
on  walrus-hide  fried  in  oil.  Before  retiring  to  rest 
Petersen  astonished  us  by  producing  from  his  bag  a 
'*  ship's  biscuit,"  which  he  divided  into  eight  parts, 
giving  one  to  each  of  us.  It  was  chiefly  useful  in 
reviving  past  recollections,  and  in  exhibiting  a  char 
acteristic  trait  of  our  kind-hearted  guide.  It  soft 
ened  the  expression  of  more  than  one  very  long  and 
very  wrinkled  face ;  and  Petersen  was,  by  acclama 
tion,  voted  a  "  good  fellow."  The  biscuit  was  the 
half  of  a  daily  allowance,  in  times  when  such  evi 
dences  of  civilization  were  less  strange  to  us  than 
now. 

Next  morning,  for  breakfast,  we  boiled,  instead 
of  frying,  our  walrus-hide,  and  found  the  process  a 
decided  gain  over  the  latter  method.  The  skin  was 


PURCHASE  OF  FOOD  AND  DOGS.        273 

from  a  half  to  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  and 
tough  beyond  conception.  To  chew  it  was  quite 
impossible  ;  and  in  order  to  eat  it  we  were  obliged 
to  cut  it  into  thin  slices,  like  chipped  beef,  and  swal 
low  it  as  we  best  could.  It  was  heavy  food. 

Shortly  after  the  completion  of  this  wretched  meal, 
four  sledges,  with  four  hunters,  five  women,  and  sev 
en  children,  arrived  from  Akbat.  The  children  were 
of  all  ages  and  sizes,  from  the  babe  at  the  breast  to 
a  chattering  girl  of  fourteen  years.  Our  hut  was 
more  crowded  than  it  had  ever  been  before,  there 
being  in  all  twenty-two  persons,  having  five  square 
feet  to  each.  We  could  not  all  have  lain  down  at 
one  time.  The  annoyance  of  packing  we  could 
easily  pardon,  for  we  obtained  from  the  party  four 
dozens  of'lumme,  a  few  pieces  of  dried  seal  meat, 
and  some  strips  of  dried  seal  intestine  imperfectly 
cleansed.  Better  almost  than  the  food  were  two 
dogs,  which  we  purchased  of  the  party.  We  had 
now  a  team  of  six. 

These  Esquimaux  were  moving  northward.  One 
of  the  hunters  was  the  old  man  from  Cape  York,  of 
whom  Tattarat  had  spoken  ;  the  others  were  of 
Akbat,  at  which  place  only  two  families  now  re 
mained.  They  told  us  that  the  hunting-grounds  at 
the  south  were  closed  up  ;  that  they  were  on  their 
way  first  to  Netlik;  and  that  thence  they  would  prob 
ably  continue  up  the  coast  toward  Peteravik,  a  place 
which  we  understood  from  their  account  to  be  near 
Cape  Alexander.  The  young  hunter  who  promised 
us  the  sledge  was  one  of  the  number ;  but  he  had 
changed  his  mind.  Being  afterward  further  ques 
tioned,  it  turned  out  that  he  owned  no  sledge  at 


274  AN   ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

all,  and  that  even  the  one  which  he  drove  was 
borrowed ! 

Much  to  our  gratification  our  visitors  remained 
'only  a  few  hours.  The  women  and  children,  how 
ever,  took  a  short  nap ;  and  all  partook  of  a  hearty 
meal  before  setting  out  on  their  journey. 

The  four  hunters  came  back  next  day.  It  was  at 
once  evident  that  they  were  bent  on  mischief;  for 
they  not  only  attempted  every  moment  to  pilfer 
from  us,  but  they  seemed  glad  when  they  dis 
covered  that  they  were  annoying  us.  Soon  after 
their  arrival  there  came  another  party  from  the 
south.  These  also  were  moving ;  and  they  entered 
at  once  into  the  spirit  of  mischief  which  possessed 
their  predecessors.  Among  the  last  arrivals  was  a 
very  ugly  and  disagreeable  woman  whose  thieving 
propensities  exceeded  anything  of  the  sort  that  we 
had  yet  seen.  Nothing  was  too  small  to  escape  her 
notice ;  and  upon  going  down  to  her  sledge  when 
her  party  were  about  to  leave,  we  found  a  most 
heterogeneous  collection  of  odds  and  ends,  most  of 
which  seemed  to  be  of  no  possible  use.  Prior  to 
this  we  had  missed  two  of  our  tin  drinking-cups. 
She  was  charged  with  the  theft ;  but  she  strenu 
ously  denied  having  taken  them,  until  we  threat 
ened  to  search  her  sledge,  when  she  ran  off  and 
brought  them  to  us ;  and,  as  if  for  a  peace-ofFer- 
ing  she  threw  at  our  feet  three  birds.  She  had 
evidently,  with  her  woman's  instinct,  penetrated  our 
special  weakness.  We  were  always  open  to  bribes 
of  that  sort. 

The  whole  party  became  at  length  so  troublesome 
that  we  were  compelled  to  drive  them  away,  in  order 


DOG  STOLEN.  275 

that  we  might  get  on  with  our  preparations  ;  for  we 
were  losing  much  valuable  time.  They  did  not,  how 
ever,  leave  us  ;  but  they  continued  to  hover  in  the 
vicinity.  We  suspected  them  of  designs  upon  our 
dogs  ;  two  of  which  it  will  be  remembered  we  had 
purchased  of  them  on  their  former  visit.  Our  first 
four  purchases  had  become  reconciled  to  their  new 
quarters ;  but  the  last  two  seemed  to  prefer  going 
with  the  teams  to  which  they  had  belonged.  They 
tried  hard  to  break  loose ;  and  this  their  owners 
seemed  to  be  doing  all  they  could  to  encourage. 
A  watch  was  accordingly  set,  and  kept  up  until 
all  was  quiet ;  when  our  sentry,  believing  that  the 
rogues  had  gone,  came  inside.  No  sooner  was  he 
within  the  door  than  the  dogs  set  up  a  cry,  and  in 
an  instant  footsteps  were  heard.  We  rushed  out  as 
quickly  as  possible,  but  not  in  time  to  save  both  of 
the  dogs.  One  of  them  and  his  captor  were  bound 
ing  away.  Luckily  for  the  man  he  was  almost  im 
mediately  hidden  by  the  rocks ;  for  BonsalPs  English 
rifle  was  going  quickly  out  at  the  door- way,  and  in  a 
moment  more  an  ounce  ball  and  the  thief  would 
have  had  a  race  for  speed.  The  Esquimau  ideas  of 
honesty  are  of  the  Spartan  order.  They  never  steal 
from  one  another ;  but  he  is  the  best  fellow  who  can 
contrive  to  take  most  from  the  pale-faces. 

Everything  was  ready  by  the  evening  of  the  28th ; 
but  the  sky  had  looked  threatening  all  day,  and  a 
storm  fell  upon  us  a  little  before  midnight,  the  time* 
we  had  fixed  upon  for  starting. 

The  air  became  calm  on  the  following  day ;  and, 
as  soon  as  we  were  satisfied  that  the  storm  was 
broken,  we  began  our  final  preparations.  Our  equip-  ' 


276  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

ment  consisted  of  eight  blankets,  our  field  lamp 
and  kettle,  two  tin  drinking-cups,  ten  days'  coffee  ra 
tions,  a  small  bag  of  blubber,  (about  eight  pounds,) 
and  another  bag  containing  two  days'  food.  This 
ast  was  two  dozens  of  birds  which  had  been  pre 
viously  boiled,  boned,  and  cut  into  small  pieces. 
These  were  now  frozen  into  a  solid  lump.  We  had 
no  more.  Our  expectation  was  to  reach  in  two 
days  Northumberland  Island,  and  there  to  obtain 
fresh  supplies. 

In  consequence  of  the  severity  of  the  cold,  the 
sled  was  lashed  together  in  the  hut,  and  then  taken 
out  through  a  hole  cut  for  the  purpose  in  the  roof. 
A  few  minutes  sufficed  for  the  packing,  and  our 
five  dogs  were  then  harnessed.  Stephenson  was 
assisted  out  of  the  hut,  and  down  over  the  rough 
ice-foot  to  the  smooth  field,  where  he  took  the  place 
assigned  to  him  on  the  top  of  the  cargo.  Then  slowly 
and  silently  we  moved  away  from  the  scene  of  so 
many  days  of  weary  waiting,  suffering,  and  disap 
pointment. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

DARKNESS    AHEAD ! 

OUR  movements  were  like  those  of  men  returning 
from  a  long  journey  rather  than  beginning  one. 
The  insufficient  food  upon  which  we  had  been  sub 
sisting  during  the  last  few  days,  had  so  much 
reduced  us  that,  at  the  end  of  the  first  hour,  many 
of  us  were  more  fatigued  than  we  had  been,  on  for 
mer  occasions  of  similar  labor,  at  the  end  of  a  day. 
Our  progress,  slow  at  the  beginning,  became  slower 
every  moment.  The  exercise  did  not  warm  us  as  it 
had  done  when  we  were  in  more  vigorous  health ; 
and  we  grew  chilly  in  spite  of  our  exertions.  Face, 
hands,  and  feet  seemed  to  be  pierced  by  a  multitude 
of  torturing  needles.  The  frost  penetrated  our  bod 
ies  as  if  .they  had  been  inanimate  4.  and  the  blood 
which  coursed  through  our  veins  felt  almost  as  if  it 
were  half  congealed.  Against  the  intense  cold  our 
imperfect  clothing  offered  a  very  inadequate  shield. 
The  thermometer,  when  we  left  the  hut,  indicated 
forty-four  degrees  below  zero.  The  air  was  fortu 
nately  quite  calm ;  and  the  moon,  shining  with  an 
intensity  which  it  can  exhibit  only  in  an  arctic  at 
mosphere,  gave  us  sufficient  light.  The  snow- 
crowned  mountains  of  Northumberland  Island  were 

24 


278  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

dimly  visible  above  the  northern  horizon.  These 
were  the  distant,  uninviting  landmarks  towards 
which  our  steps  were  directed. 

We  should  have  made  much  better  headway  had 
we  possessed  a  better  sledge.  The  wooden  sole  was 
so  rough  and  soft,  and  made  therefore  so  much  fric 
tion,  that  the  dogs  could  not  drag  the  load  without 
our  assistance.  Having  no  ropes  with  which  to 
attach  ourselves,  we  took  turns,  two  at  a  time,  at 
pushing  against  the  upstanders. 

In  this  manner  we  had  made  about  eight  miles 
when  Stephen  son,  seeing  the  difficulty  which  beset 
us,  insisted  on  being  allowed  to  dismount  and  walk. 
This  it  did  not  seem  possible  that  he  could  do,  and 
his  request  was  not  granted  ;  but  shortly  after,  when 
not  observed,  he  rolled  from  the  sledge,  and  declared 
that  if  he  could  not  walk  he  would  go  no  farther.  I 
raised  him  up,  and  gave  him  the  support  of  my  arm. 
We  proceeded  thus  together  for  about  a  mile,  when 
he  suddenly  fell  by  rny  side  and  fainted  away. 

We  were  at  the  moment  close  beside  a  small  ice 
berg,  which,  on  its  eastern  side,  was  hollowed  out  in 
the  form  of  a  crescent.  Across  in  front,  from  wing 
to  wing,  lay  a  heavy  snow-drift  inclosing  a  small 
area.  Into  this  protected  place  we  carried  our  sick 
comrade  ;  and,  after  wrapping  him  in  our  blankets, 
we  built  about  him  a  rude  shelter  with  blocks  of 
snow,  which  were  cut  from  the  hard  drift.  Godfrey 
started  the  lamp  to  cook  for  him  some  coffee.  He 
did  not  speak  for  several  minutes.  His  first  words 
were  :  "  Leave  me  and  save  yourselves.  I  can  never 
reach  the  ship,  and  had  better  die  at  once." 

We  were  in  a  dilemma.     Go  on  without  Stephen- 


DIFFICULTIES  AND  DANGERS.  279 

son  we  would  not ;  and  go  on  with  him  it  seemed 
that  we  could  not.  What  should  we  do  ? 

The  difficulty  resolved  itself.  Although  we  had 
not  made,  on  this  our  first  march,  more  than  one 
half  of  the  distance  we  expected,  being  only  half 
way  to  Cape  Parry,  and  less  than  one  fourth  of  the 
way  to  Northumberland  Island,  yet  we  were  all 
thoroughly  exhausted ;  and  without  rest  it  did  not 
seem-  possible  that  we  could  go  much  farther.  We 
determined,  therefore,  to  camp ;  and  accordingly 
such  a  snow  shelter  was  constructed  as,  on  former 
occasions  of  similar  exposure,  we  had  found  to 
afford  a  safe  protection  ;  but  we  soon  discovered  that 
we  could  prevent  ourselves  from  freezing  only  by 
constant  activity. 

It  was  clear  that  we  must  move  on ;  for  to  run 
about  with  the  view  of  keeping  warm,  or  rather  I 
should  say,  with  the  view  of  keeping  alive,  w^ould  be 
only  to  wear  ourselves  out  without  accomplishing 
anything  in  the  direction  of  our  purpose. 

I  proposed  to  my  comrades  that  Stephenson 
should  be  left  in  my  care.  I  would  undertake  to 
get  him  back  to  the  hut ;  and  would  rely  upon  their 
reaching  Northumberland  Island,  and  sending  sup 
plies  to  us,  through  our  friends  Amalatok  or  Kingik- 
tok.  The  necessity  for  the  adoption  of  such  a 
course  was  evident,  if  the  journey  was  to  be  con 
tinued  ;  and  I  was  anxious,  at  whatever  hazard,  to 
avoid  turning  the  party  back.  I  saw  nothing  better 
for  poor  Stephenson,  and  at  the  same  time  for  the 
success  of  our  undertaking. 

My  proposal  had  scarcely  been  made  before  the 
party  declared,  that,  with  even  the  reduced  cargo,  it 


280  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

would  be  impossible  ever  to  reach  Northumberland 
Island  without  rest;  and  rest  it  was  clear  could  not 
be  obtained  in  the  interval.  In  view  of  this  fact  it 
was  decided,  without  much  delay,  that  we  should 
return  in  a  body  to  the  hut,  and  fall  back  upon  our 
original  plan  of  sending  Petersen  and  Bonsall  with 
the  sledge.  Several  of  us  were  already  severely 
nipped  by  the  frost ;  and  all  felt  themselves  to  be 
losing  rapidly  what  little  strength  they  had. 

The  cargo  was  re-stowed  ;  the  invalid,  wrapped  in 
blankets,  was  placed  upon  it ;  and  our  melancholy 
faces  were  turned  southward,  toward  our  only  shel 
ter.  Poor  as  this  refuge  had  always  been,  it  was 
now  worse  than  ever.  A  pile  of  frozen  sods  and 
snow  was  heaped  upon  the  floor,  and  the  cold  air 
was  streaming  in  through  the  orifice  from  which 
these  had  been  taken. 

We  reached  it  —  how  or  when  I  doubt  if  any  one 
of  us  distinctly  remembers.  I  have  often  tried  to 
bring  to  recollection  some  phenomenon  which  would 
indicate  the  period  of  the  day.  I  cannot  even  re 
member  the  direction  of  the  shadows  which  our 
bodies  cast  upon  the  moon-lit  snow.  I  know  that 
we  did  not  all  arrive  together.  As  we  moved  slowly 
forward,  first  one,  and  then  another,  and  another  of 
the  party  fell  behind ;  and  it  was  at  least  an  hour 
after  the-  sledge  had  reached  the  hut  before  the  last 
one,  no  longer  able  to  stand  upright,  came  crawling 
over  the  plain,  upon  his  hands  and  knees.  More 
than  one  of  us  thus  finished  the  journey  ;  and  it 
has  always  appeared  to  me  as  a  remarkable  exhibi 
tion  of  the  instinct  of  life  that  we  toiled  on  in  our 
stupefied  unconsciousness  even  of  danger.  Ste- 


STUPEFIED  BY  COLD.  281 

phenson's  fainting  fit  evidently  saved  us ;  for,  had 
we  gone  two  miles  farther  and  then  turned  back,  or 
had  we  still  gone  forward,  there  was  perhaps  not 
one  of  us  who  would  not,  unconscious  of  the  risk, 
have  stopped  by  the  way  for  a  short  nap,  through 
which  he  would  have  passed  into  the  sleep  which 
knows  no  waking. 

We  had  just  sense  enough  left  to  enable  us  to 
appreciate  each  other's  wants,  and  to  give  assist 
ance,  the  stronger  to  the  weaker ;  to  close  up  tem 
porarily  the  hole  in  the  roof;  to  carry  in  our  frosted 
blankets,  and  to  spread  them  upon  the  breck  under 
neath  those  which  we  had  left  behind.  We  knew 
when  we  awoke  next  day  that  these  things  had  been 
done ;  but  none  of  us  retained  more  than  the  most 
vague  impression  as  to  the  manner  of  their  execu 
tion.  The  intense  cold,  operating  upon  our  feeble 
and  overtaxed  bodies,  had  made  wild  work  with  our 
mental  faculties. 

We  lay  down  in  the  darkness ;  and,  through  hours 
uncounted,  slept  and  shivered  away  the  effects  of 
our  unfortunate  journey. 

When  we  awoke  we  had  lost  our  reckoning. 
Whether  it  was  the  first  or  the  second  day  of  De 
cember  we  could  not  agree ;  but,  since  the  majority 
were  in  favor  of  the  first,  it  was  so  declared.  The 
stars  told  us  the  time  of  day.  It  was  nearly  noori. 

Although  stiffened  and  sore  with  the  cold  and  our 
severe  exertions,  we  were  rejoiced  to  find  that  none 
of  us  were  seriously  injured  by  the  frost.  ,  I  had 
slightly  frozen  both  my  hands  and  feet  while  en 
gaged  in  trying  to  restore  life*  to  Stephenson.  We 
were  very  hungry ;  and,  above  all,  feverish  and 

24* 


282  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOUKNEY. 

thirsty.  Our  first  duty  was  to  make  a  fire  and 
melt  some  water.  The  little  that  we  had  left  in 
the  kettle  was  of  course  now  frozen  into  a  solid 
lump. 

Fire  was  not  produced  without  difficulty  and 
serious  alarm.  The  person  to  w^hom  had  been  in 
trusted  the  box  containing  our  tinder,  brimstone 
matches,  and  flint  and  steel,  had  no  recollection  of 
the  place  where  he  had  put  them.  Godfrey  had 
us6d  them  at  the  berg  where  we  camped,  but  what 
had  become  of  them  since,  no  one  could  tell.  That 
the  box  was  out  upon  the  ice,  seemed  highly  proba 
ble.  I  do  not  remember  to  have  heard,  at  any  other 
time,  such  expressions  of  despair  as  followed  the 
dawning  of  this  conviction.  We  had  nothing  else 
with  which  to  make  a  spark,  for  it  was  hopeless  to 
think  of  producing  such  a  result  at  so  low  a  temper 
ature  by  the  friction  of  two  pieces  of  wood.  Our 
alarm  was,  however,  unnecessary ;  for  the  box  was 
found  upon  the  floor.  Some  one  struck  it  with  his 
foot,  and  we  knew  it  by  its  rattle.  Godfrey  now 
remembered  having  rolled  it  up  in  the  blankets 
when  we  stowed  the  sledge,  and  it  had  fallen  un 
noticed  upon  the  ground  when  these  were  brought 
inside  the  hut. 

The  lamp  was  soon  lighted  ;  and,  having  col 
lected  together  the  few  remaining  splinters  of  the 
Hope,  we  made  a  fire,  and  for  breakfast  cooked  some 
strong  coffee,  and  warmed  one  half  of  what  re 
mained  of  the  provision  which  we  had  taken  with 
us  on  our  journey.  The  other  half  was  reserved 
for  Petersen  and  Bonsall,  who  left  us  immediately 
after  our  repast  was  finished.  I  went  with  them 


DEPARTURE   OF  PETERSEN  AND   BONSALL.          283 

down  to- the  beach  in  company  with  Mr.  Sonntag; 
and,  after  bidding  them  God-speed,  watched  them 
as  they  moved  slowly  up  the  coast.  They  both 
walked  at  first ;  but  after  they  had  gone  about  a 
mile  one  of  them  dropped  upon  the  sledge.  Soon 
afterward  they  were  hidden  from  view  behind  the 
hummocks ;  and  I  turned  toward  the  hut  with  Peter- 
sen's  last  words  ringing  in  my  ears :  "  If  we  ever 
reach  the  ship  we  will  come  back  to  you,  or  perish 
in  the  attempt,  as  sure  as  there  is  a  God  in  heaven." 

If  they  ever  reached  the  ship ! 

The  four  following  days  were  the  most  wretched 
of  our  hut-life.  We  could  not  elevate  the  tempera 
ture  above  zero.  The  roof  could  not  be  made 
as  tight  as  it  was  before.  We  had  not  strength 
enough  to  remove  the  pile  of  sods  and  snow  which 
lay  in  the  middle  of  the  floor.  We  were,  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  time,  in  darkness,  not  hav 
ing  oil  sufficient  to  keep  our  lamp  burning  more 
than  two  hours  of  each  day.  The  wood  of  the 
Hope  was  all  consumed,  and  we  had  no  fuel  but 
the  thwarts  of  the  Ironsides.  Our  food  was  walrus- 
hide. 

There  was  not,  in  such  a  place,  under  such  cir 
cumstances,  much  to  encourage  hope  ;  and  the  trav 
ellers  were  scarcely  out  of  sight  before  all  manner 
of  speculations,  respecting  their  probable  fate  and 
ours,  were  passing  from  mouth  to  mouth.  One 
was  fearful  that  they  would  be  waylaid  by  the 
Esquimaux ;  another  thought  that  they  would  freeze 
on  their  way  to  Northumberland  ;  and  all  were 
agreed  that,  if  they  should  reach  the  brig,  there  was 
scarcely  a  probability  that  they  would  be  able  to 


284  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

return  ;  and  from  what  the  Esquimaux  had  told  us, 
and  from  what  we  had  every  reason  to  expect,  the 
party  who  had  remained  in  the  vessel  must  be  too 
much  broken  down  by  scurvy  to  send  us  aid.  For 
my  own  part  I  could  give  little  substantial  encour 
agement  to  anybody,  for  the  reason  that  I  could  find 
little  for  myself.  Even  if  our  two  comrades  should 
return  to  us,  should  we  be  alive  to  profit  by  their 
devotion  ?  Yet  we  were  still  six  living  men,  and 
there  was  the  old  proverb. 

The  traps  were  visited  as  they  had  been  formerly, 
and  on  the  second  day  after  the  departure  of  the 
sledge  Mr.  Sonntag  brought  in  a  fox.  which  he  had 
found  dead  in  one  of  them.  This  trap  was  one  of 
the  farthest  from  .the  hut,  and  not  having  been  vis 
ited  before  during  several  days,  the  animal  had 
frozen.  Its  skin  was  torn  from  it  in  an  instant, 
and  it  was  devoured  before  it  was  half  cooked. 

We  grew  weaker  each  day.  Happily,  Stephen- 
son  improved.  Although,  like  the  rest  of  us,  he 
lost  strength,  yet  he  had  less  palpitation  of  the 
heart;  and  he  recovered  so  far  as  to  be  able  to 
move  about. 

The  pieces  of  young  walrus-skin  which  we  had 
been  using  for  food  were  consumed  on  the  third  day ; 
and  we  were  forced  to  resort  to  some  scraps  of  old 
hide,  which  were  so  tough  that  they  could  scarcely 
be  cut,  and  on  this  account  had  been  rejected  by  our 
dogs. 

The  traps  were  examined  in  the  afternoon,  but 
this  time  there  was  no  fox. 

On  the  day  after,  the  fourth  since  our  friends  had 
left  us, 'I  made  as  much  of  the  circuit  as  my  strength 


THOUGHTS   OF  HOME.  285 

would  permit,  and  with  the  same  fortune.  I  reached 
the  spot  where,  with  Petersen  and  Bonsall,  I  had,  a 
few  weeks  before,  talked  of  our  homes  in  the  south, 
and  schemed  for  our  deliverance ;  but  the  sun  was 
no  longer  in  sight  to  warm  the  sky,  and  to  put  a 
glow  into  my  heart.  The  moon  had  usurped  his 
place  ;  and  her  silver  face  seemed  to  reflect  nothing 
but  the  coldness  of  the  ice-fields  which  lay  beneath 
her. 

I  looked  on  every  side  with  a  yearning  for  some 
thing  outward  to  lighten  the  heavy  weight  which 
oppressed  my  spirits  ;  for  darker  times,  and  times  of 
greater  responsibility,  I  knew  were  near  at  hand ; 
but  desolation  and  the  silence  of  death  were  every 
where  around  me  ;  and  better  than  ever  before,  bet 
ter  probably  than  ever  again,  I  felt  what  it  was  to 
depend  upon  one's  self  and  God. 

Then  came  a  reaction  which  will  be  readily  ui\- 
derstood  by  the  intelligent  reader.  I  arose  from 
the  rock  upon  which  I  had  been  seated,  and  again 
fixed  my  eyes  upon  the  sea.  The  stern  silence  which 
had  been  almost  maddening,  became  now  a  source 
of  inspiration.  In  the  reflux  of  thought  which  fol 
lowed,  I  forgot  the  cold  moon,  the  leaden  stars,  the 
frowning  cliffs,  the  desolate  waste,  the  chilly  glacier ; 
forgot  my  loneliness  ;  and  I  was  back  again  in  the 
world  of  life  and  power  and  action.  The  frozen  sea 
grew  into  a  fertile  plain  ;  the  hummocked  ridges 
were  resolved  into  walls  and  hedges ;  and  a  southern 
panorama  of  sunny  fields  spread  itself  before  me.  A 
crack  which  meandered  to  the  southwest,  which  had 
recently  opened  with  the  tide,  and  from  which  were 
curling  up  wreaths  of  "  frost-smoke,"  favored  the 


2.  »6  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

illusion.  Clusters  of  little  hummocks  suggested 
herds  of  cattle  and  flocks  of  sheep.  Larger  masses 
were  converted  into  trees  ;  and  a  long  bank  of  snow, 
whose  vertical  wall  threw  a  dark  shadow  on  the 
plain,  was  the  margin  of  a  dense  forest.  Farther 
away,  a  pinnacled  berg  became  a  church  with  spire 
and  belfry  ;  another  wore  the  appearance  of  a  ruined 
castle ;  while  still  farther  to  the  southwest,  where 
the  stream  seemed  to  discharge  itself  into  the  ocean, 
stood  a  giant  fort,  under  whose  bristling  guns  lay  a 
fleet  of  stately  ships. 

Around  all  that  I  saw  were  clustered  home  asso 
ciations,  and  objects  which,  years  before,  had  sug 
gested  to  my  boyish  mind  the  serious  purposes  of 
life ;  and  I  turned  away  with  renewed  strength  to 
fight  the  battle  through,  and  with  renewed  determi 
nation  to  behold  again  those  scenes  which  my  imag 
ination  had  grouped  together  on  the  desolate  sea. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

PLOTS   AND    COUNTER-PLOTS. 

I  HAD  not  returned  from  my  walk  more  than  two 
hours,  before  three  Esquimau  hunters,  with  as  many 
sledges,  arrived  from  Netlik.  One  of  them  was  Ka- 
lutunah.  Their  visit  seemed  to  have  been  prompted 
by  curiosity,  for  they  brought  nothing  to  trade ;  and 
they  came  into  the  hut  with  only  two  small  pieces 
of  meat,  which  were  scarcely  more  than  sufficient  to 
furnish  to  themselves  a  moderate  meal.  One  of 
these  pieces  was  appropriated  without  ceremony  to 
the  use  of  our  party,  notwithstanding  that  the  pro 
ceeding  was  protested  against  by  the  hunters,  with  a 
multitude  of  sullen  "  Na !  na !  na-miks  ! "  Men  in 
our  condition  were  not  likely  to  be  deterred  by  a 
mere  verbal  negative.  An  equivalent  for  the  meat 
was  afterward  given  to  them,  and  they  appeared  to 
be  satisfied.  Both  pieces  were  soon  cooking. 

I  now  repeated  to  Kalutunah  a  request  which  had 
been  made  on  previous  occasions,  viz :  that  his  peo 
ple  should  take  us  upon  their  sledges  and  carry  us 
northward  to  the  Oomeaksoak.  His  answer  was 
the  same  as  it  had  been  hitherto.  It  was  then  pro 
posed  to  him  and  his  companions  that  they  should 
hire  to  us  their  teams ;  but  this  also  they  declined  to 


288  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

do.  No  offers  which  we  could  make  seemed  to  pro 
duce  the  slightest  impression  upon  them  ;  and  it  was 
clear  that  nothing  would  induce  them  to  comply 
with  our  wishes,  nor  even  to  give  us  any  reason  for 
their  refusal.  In  fact  they  thoroughly  understood 
our  situation  ;  and  we  now  entertained  no  doubt 
that  they  had  made  up  their  minds,  with  a  unanim 
ity  which  at  an  earlier  period  seemed  improbable,  to 
abandon  us  to  our  fate  and  to  profit  by  it.  In  this 
view  we  were  confirmed  by  a  discovery  which  one 
of  our  men  made  upon  going  down  to  their  sledges. 
They  had  brought  with  them  several  large  pieces  of 
bear  and  walrus  meat,  which  they  were  evidently 
determined  that  we  should  not  obtain ;  and  to  in 
sure  this  they  had  buried  the  pieces  in  the  snow. 
For  this  procedure  they  might  well  have  had  motives 
which  it  was  not  for  us  to  question ;  for  example, 
provisions  might  be  scarce  at  their  settlement. 
Upon  inquiring  of  Kalutunah  if  such  was  the  case, 
he  informed  us  that  they  had,  the  day  before,  cap 
tured  a  bear,  three  seals,  and  a  walrus.  They  had, 
then,  plenty,  and  could  not  possibly  have  been  actu 
ated  by  the  necessary  selfish  prudence  which  I  had- 
in  charity  attributed  to  them. 

The  question  to  be  decided  became  a  very  plain 
one.  Here  were  six  civilized  men,  who  had  no 
resort  for  the  preservation  of  their  lives,  their  useful 
ness,  and  the  happiness  of  their  families,  except  in 
the  aid  of  sledges  and  teams  which  the  savage  own 
ers  obstinately  refused  to  sell  or  to  hire.  The  expec 
tation  of  seizing,  after  we  should  have  starved 
or  frozen  to  death,  our  remaining  effects,  was  the 
only  motive  of  the  refusal.  The  savages  were  with- 


PLOT   AGAIKST   THE   ESQUIMAUX.  289 

in  easy  reach  of  their  friends,  and  could  suffer  little 
by  a  short  delay  of  their  return.  For  their  property 
compensation  could  be  made  after  our  arrival  at  the 
brig.  For  my  own  part,  before  attempting  to  ne 
gotiate  with  Kalutunah,  I  had  determined  that  his 
party  should  not  escape  us  in  case  of  failure  in  our 
application  to  them  for  aid. 

My  comrades  were  not  behind  me  in  their  inclina 
tions.  Indeed,  it  is  to  their  credit  that  in  so  des 
perate  an  extremity,  they  were  willing  to  restrain 
themselves  from  measures  of  a  kind  to  give  us,  at 
the  time,  far  less  trouble  than  those  which  I  sug 
gested.  Being  unwilling  that  any  unnecessary 
harm  should  come  to  the  Esquimaux,  I  proposed 
to  put  them  to  sleep  with  opium ;  then,  taking 
possession  of  their  dogs  and  sledges,  to  push  north 
ward  as  rapidly  as  possible ;  and  leaving  them  to 
awaken  at  their  leisure,  to  stop  for  a  few  hours  of 
rest  among  our  friends  at  Northumberland  Island ; 
then  to  make  directly  for  Cape  Alexander,  with  the 
hope  of  getting  so  far  the  start  of  Kalutunah  and 
his  companions,  that  before  they  could  arrive  at 
Netlik  and  spread  the  alarm,  we  should  be  beyond 
their  reach. 

This  plan  met  with  the  unanimous  sanction  of 
the  party ;  and  we  prepared  to  put  it  into  immedi 
ate  execution. 

In  the  way  of  this  there  were  some  difficulties. 
Our  guests  were  manifesting  great  uneasiness,  and 
a  decided  disinclination  to  remain.  Many  threat 
ening  glances  and  very  few  kind  words  had  been 
bestowed  upon  them  ;  and  they  were  evidently  be 
ginning  to  feel  that  they  were  not  in  a  safe  place. 

25 


290  AN   ARCTIC   BOAT  JOtJRNEY. 

It  became  now  our  first  duty  to  reassure  them  ;  and 
accordingly,  the  angry  looks  gave  place  to  friendly 
smiles.  The  old,  familiar  habits  of  our  people  were 
resumed.  Many  presents  were  given  to  them.  I 
tore  the  remaining  pictures  from  my  "  Anatomy, " 
and  the  picture  of  the  poor  foot-sore  boy  who 
wanted  washing,  from  "  Copperfield, "  and  gave 
them  to  Kalutunah  for  his  children.  Such  pieces 
of  wood  as  remained  to  us,  were  distributed  amongst 
them.  Each  received  a  comb.  This  last  they  had 
sometimes  seen  us  use,  and  they  proceeded  imme 
diately  to  comb  out  their  matted  hair,  or  rather,  to 
attempt  that  work  ;  but  forty  years  of  neglect,  blub 
ber,  and  filth  had  so  glued  their  locks  together,  tha\ 
there  was  no  possibility  of  getting  a  comb  through 
them.  The  jests  excited  by  these  attempts  to  imi 
tate  our  practices  did  more  to  restore  confidence 
than  anything  else. 

At  length  was  reached  the  climax  of  our  hospital 
ities.  The  stew  which  we  had  been  preparing  for 
our  guests  was  ready,  and  was  placed  before  them  ; 
and  they  were  soon  greedily  devouring  it.  This  pro 
ceeding  was  watched  by  us  with  mingled  anxiety 
and  satisfaction  ;  for,  while  the  pot  was  over  the 
fire,  I  had  turned  into  it,  unobserved,  the  contents  of 
a  small  vial  of  laudanum.  The  soup  of  course 
contained  the  larger  part  of  the  opium;  but  being 
small  in  quantity  it  had  been  made  so  bitter  that 
they  would  not  eat  more  than  the  half  of  it.  In 
order  to  prevent  either  of  them  from  getting  an 
overdose  we  divided  the  .fluid  into  three  equal  por 
tions  ;  and  then  with  intense  interest  awaited  the 
result,  apprehensive  that  the  narcotic  had  not  been 


ESQUIMAUX  DRUGGED.  291 

administered  in  sufficiently  large  quantity  to  insure 
the  desired  effect. 

After  an  interval  of  painful  watchfulness  on  the 
part  of  my  companions,  the  hunters  began  to  droop 
their  eyelids,  and  asked  to  be  allowed  to  lie  down 
and  sleep.  We  were  not  long  in  granting  their  wish, 
and  never  before  had  we  manifested  more  kindly 
dispositions  toward  them.  We  assisted  them  in 
taking  off  their  coats  and  boots,  and  then  wrapped 
them  up  in  our  blankets,  about  which  we  were  no 
longer  fastidious. 

Our  guests  were  in  a  few  minutes  asleep ;  but  I 
did  not  know  how  much  of  their  drowsiness  was 
due  to  fatigue,  (for  they  had  been  hunting,)  and  how 
much  to  the  opium ;  nor  were  we  by  any  means 
assured  that  their  sleep  was  sound ;  for  they  exhib 
ited  signs  of  restlessness  which  greatly  alarmed  us. 
Every  movement  had  therefore  to  be  conducted  with 
the  utmost  circumspection. 

To -prepare  for  starting  was  the  work  of  a  few 
minutes.  We  were  in  full  travelling  dress,  coats, 
boots,  and  mittens,  and  some  of  us  wore  masks ; 
the  hunters'  whips  were  in  our  hands,  and  nothing 
remained  to  be  done  but  to  get  a  cup  from  the 
shelf.  The  moment  was  a  critical  one,  for,  if  the 
sleepers  should  awake,  our  scheme  must  be  revealed. 
Godfrey  reached  up  for  the  desired  cup,  and  down 
came  the  whole  contents  of  the  shelf,  rattling  to  the 
ground.  I  saw  the  sleepers  start ;  and  anticipating 
the  result,  instantly  sprang  to  the  light  and  extin 
guished  it  with  a  blow  of  my  mittened  hand.  As 
was  to  be  expected  the  hunters  were  aroused.  Ka- 
lutunah  gave  a  grunt  and  inquired  what  was  the 


292  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

matter.  I  answered  him  by  throwing  myself  upon 
the  breck,  and  crawling  to  his  side,  hugged  him 
close,  and  cried,  "  Singikpok,"  (sleep).  He  laughed, 
muttered  something  which  I  could  not  understand, 
and  without  having  suspected  that  anything  was 
wrong,  again  fell  asleep. 

This  incident  convinced  us  that  we  could  not 
much  rely  upon  either  the  soundness  or  the  long 
continuance  of  the  slumbers  which  we  had  secured, 
and  that  in  order  to  prevent  our  guests  from  getting 
to  Netlik  before  we  should  be  beyond  their  reach,  we 
must  resort  to  other  expedients.  They  must  be 
confined  within  the  hut,  and  the  possibility  of 
their  escape  prevented  until  relief  could  corne  to 
them  from  their  companions  at  the  settlement. 
This  could  only  be  accomplished  by  carrying  off 
their  clothing. 

I  slipped  from  the  side  of  the  sleeping  savage, 
and  sought  for  a  little  package  which  had  dropped 
from  my  hand  in  the  excitement  of  extinguishing 
the  lamp.  This  package  contained  some  of  my 
journal-entries,  some  scientific  notes,  some  records 
respecting  the  Esquimaux,  and  other  important  pa 
pers,  and  I  could  ill  afford  to  lose  it ;  but  nowhere 
could  it  be  found,  nor  was  it  safe  to  seek  long. 
Everything  was  ready ;  my  companions  were  impa 
tient  to  be  off;  the  cups  thrown  from  the  shelf  were 
scattered  about  the  hut,  endangering  every  move 
ment.  If  the  savages  should  detect  us  in  the  act 
of  leaving,  I  knew  that  their  fate  was  sealed.  The 
risks  were  too  great,  the  moment  was  too  critical, 
to  admit  of  delay.  I  abandoned  the  search. 

We   crawled  noiselessly  out  of  the  hut,  carrying 


THE  HUT  ABANDONED.  293 

with  us  the  boots,  coats,  and  mittens  of  the  sleep 
ers.  Stephenson  was  fortunately  better  than  he 
had  been  for  weeks.  I  gave  to  him  the  rifle,  and 
stationed  him  with  it  on  one  side  of  the  door.  I 
took  the  double-barrelled  shot-gun  and  occupied  the 
side  opposite.  All  of  the  fire-arms  being  now  under 
my  control,  it  was  my  intention,  in  case  the  Es 
quimaux  should  discover  us,  to  await  then:  coming 
out  of  the  hut,  and,  under  cover  of  our  guns,  com 
pel  them  to  mount  the  sledges  and  drive  us  north 
ward. 

Mr.  Sonntag  went  down  with  the  other  men  and 
prepared  the  sledges  for  starting.  The  dogs  were 
greatly  frightened  by  the  sudden  and  novel  treat 
ment  to  which  the  strangers  subjected  them;  and 
it  was  not  without  much  trouble  that  they  were  har 
nessed.  Meanwhile  one  of  the  men  brought  up  the 
greater  portion  of  the  meat  which  was  found  buried 
in  the  snow ;  and  having  placed  it  in  the  passage, 
(it  was  sufficient,  with  economy,  to  last  the  prison 
ers  five  or  six  days,)  we  tore  down  the  snow  wall  in 
front  of  the  hut ;  and,  with  the  frozen  blocks,  barri 
caded  the  doorway.  Sonntag  cried  to  us  that  all 
was- ready.  Leaving  the  sentinel's  post  I  took  Ste 
phenson  by  the  arm,  and  supported  him  to  my 
sledge.  Mr.  Sonntag  and  John  had  one,  and  Whip- 
pie  and  Godfrey  the  other,  of  the  remaining  two. 
The  poor  dogs,  howling  in  terror,  dashed  off  at  the 
first  crack  of  the  whip,  and  once  more  Fort  Deso 
lation  was"  at  our  backs. 

25* 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

MOVING   NORTHWARD. 

THE  dogs  gave  us  much  trouble.  Unaccustomed 
to  us,  or  to  our  voices,  and  startled  by  our  sudden 
appearance  among  them,  they  seemed  to  be  too 
much  frightened  to  submit  to  control ;  and,  setting 
off  at  a  furious  pace,  they  dashed  helter-skelter  over 
the  plain,  some  running  one  way,  some  another, 
their  tails  down,  their  ears  up,  —  all  uttering  their 
peculiar  wild  cry,  and  all,  seemingly  possessed  with 
the  one  idea  of  breaking  away  from  their  strange- 
looking  drivers.  My  team  twice  took  me  back 
nearly  to  the  hut,  before  I  succeeded  in  getting  any 
mastery  of  them ;  and,  weak  as  I  was,  they  had  by 
that  time  nearly  mastered  me.  Meantime  John 
and  Godfrey  were  having  a  similar  contest  with 
their  respective  teams,  which  had  carried  them  out 
among  the  rough  ice  half  a  mile  from  the  coast. 

At  length  my  brutes'  heads  were  turned  from  the 
hut,  and  we  wrere  dashing  at  a  ten-knot  speed  after 
the  other  sledges.  I  thought  now  that  my  trouble 
was  over;  but  no  sooner  had  I  overtaken*  my  com 
panions  than  my  wolfish  herd  flew  past  them ;  and 
then  wheeling  short  around,  some  to  the  right,  some 
to  the  left,  they  turned  the  sledge  over  backward, 


HALT  IN  A  CAVE.  295 

rolled  Stephenson  and  myself  into  a  snow-drift,  and 
beat  a  hasty  retreat.  I  caught  the  up-stander  as  I 
tumbled  off',  and  was  dragged  several  yards  before 
I  could  regain  rny  feet,  and  throw  myself  upon  the 
sledge.  At  this  moment  the  dogs  were  plunging 
through  a  ridge  of  hummocks.  The  point  of  one 
of  the  runners  caught  a  block  of  ice.  All  but  two 
of  the  traces  snapped  off;  and  away  went  the 
dogs  back  toward  their  narcotized  masters.  To  se 
cure  them  again  was  of  course  impossible.  The 
two  animals  which  remained  were  hastily  attached, 
one  to  each  of  the  other  sledges ;  and  leaving  the 
third  sledge  jammed  in  the  ice  we  continued  our 
course. 

As  we  proceeded  the  dogs  became  more  accus 
tomed  to  our  voices,  and  we  made  good  headway. 
Cape  Parry  was  reached  without  further  accident. 
Here  we  halted,  in  a  cave  on  the  southern  side  of 
the  point,  for  the  purpose  of  making  some  repairs, 
and  refreshing  ourselves  with  a  little  rest  and  a  pot 
of  coffee.  « 

The  cave  gave  us  a  good  protection  against  a 
light  wind  which  had  sprung  up  during  our  jour 
ney.  It  was  about  forty  feet  in  depth,  and  twelve  in 
height ;  and  being  on  a  level  with  the  sea  it  had 
a  smooth,  glassy  floor.  The  dogs  were  picketed 
near  its  mouth ;  and,  after  being  fed,  they  huddled 
quietly  together ;  and,  well  reconciled  to  their  new 
masters,  they  gave  themselves  no  more  uneasiness. 
Godfrey  had  broken  his  whipstock  in  his  efforts  to 
control  their  refractory  tempers,  and  John  had  whip 
ped  his  lash  half  away.  Without  repairing  these, 
it  was  impossible  to  proceed  with  the  teams,  and 


296  AN  AECTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

fully  two  hours  had  elapsed  before  we  were  ready  to 
continue  our  journey. 

I  was  preparing  to  start  with  Mr.  Sonntag  to 
pick  a  track  through  the  hummocks  which  lay  across 
the  little  bight  into  which  we  had  come,  when  three 
men  with  a  sledge  hove  in  sight  around  a  point 
of  land,  about  a  hundred  yards  from  our  camp. 
They  were  at  once  recognized  as  our  late  prisoners. 
They  had  been  able  to  extricate  from  the  ice  the 
sledge  which  we  had  been  forced  to  abandon  ;  and, 
refreshed  by  their  food  and  sleep,  they  had  quickly 
attached  our  fugitive  dogs  and  started  on  our  trail. 

Each  party  discovered  the  other  at  the  same  mo 
ment,  and  both  were  equally  surprised.  The  Esqui 
maux  were  of  course  in  our  power ;  but  the  surest 
way  to  guard  against  the  hostility  of  the  tribe,  in 
consequence  of  our  act  of  aggression,  seemed  to  be 
to  strike  terror  into  these  men  ;  for  a  savage  despises 
nothing  as  much  as  weakness,  and  respects  nothing 
as  much  as  strength. 

Seizing  the  rifle,  I  sprang  over  the  ice-foot  and 
ran  out  to  meet  them.  Sonntag  was  at  my  side 
with  the  gun.  The  Esquimaux  stopped  when  they 
saw  us  approaching,  and  held  their  ground  until  we 
came  within  thirty  yards  of  them,  when,  halting,  I 
brought  the  rifle  to  my  shoulder  and  aimed  toward 
them.  They  turned  away  and,  throwing  their  arms 
wildly  about  their  heads,  called  loudly  to  us  not  to 
shoot.  —  "  Na-mik  !  na-mik  !  na-mik !  "  I  lowered 
my  rifle  and  beckoned  to  them  to  advance.  This 
they  did  cautiously,  assuring  us  at  every  step  that 
they  were  friends. 

By  this  time  Whipple  had  come  up,  and  each  of 


SUBJECTION   OF  THE  ESQUIMAUX.  297 

us  seized  a  prisoner.  I  took  Kalutunah  by  the  collar, 
and,  after  giving  him  a  hearty  shake,  in  token  of  my 
displeasure,  I  marched  him  before  me  to  the  mouth 
of  the  cave;  then  facing  him  around  toward  his 
sledge,  I  pointed  to  it  with  my  gun ;  and,  turning 
toward  "the  north,  I  told  him,  of  course  chiefly  by 
signs,  that  if  he  took  the  whip  which  lay  on  the 
snow  at  his  feet  and  drove  us  to  the  Oomeaksoak,  I 
would  give  him  back  his  dogs,  sledge,  coat,  boots, 
and  mittens,  but  that  if  he  did  not  do  this,  he  and 
his  companions  should  be  shot  forthwith  ;  and,  suit 
ing  the  action  to  the  word,  I  pushed  him  from  me, 
and  made  a  feint  to  level  my  gun.  He  sidled  away 
a  few  paces,  crying,  "  Na !  na  !  —  Na-mik  !  na-mik ! " 
over  and  over  again,  as  fast  as  his  tongue  could 
utter  the  words,  making  gestures  all  the  time  with 
his  right  hand,  in  imitation  of  driving  dogs ;  and 
with  his  left  pointing  northward.  It  being  now  evi 
dent  that  he  understood  both  my  demand  and  the 
penalty  in  case  of  non-compliance,  I  rested  the  stock 
of  my  gun  upon  the  ice  and  nodded  my  approval  of 
his  decision.  I  then  beckoned  him  toward  me,  and, 
pointing  to  the  dogs,  sledges,  &c.,  I  gave  him  to 
understand  that  we  would  consider  all  those  things 
as  ours  until  the  terms  of  the  contract  were  com 
plied  with  on  his  part.  He  approached  with  his  old- 
fashioned  familiarity,  and  expressed  his  satisfaction 
by  an  overwhelming  volley  of  "  tyma,"  (good  or 
right).  He  was  evidently  convinced  that  the*  tables 
had  turned,  and  that  I  was  doing  him  a  great  favor, 
in  negotiating  instead  of  using  the  dreaded  weapon. 
Our  prisoners  were  a  sorry  looking  party.  They 
had  arrayed  themselves  in  our  blankets,  cutting 


298  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

holes  in  the  middle  of  them  for  their  heads.  If  not 
the  original  inventors  of  the  Spanish  poncho  tley  are 
none  the  less  entitled  to  credit  for  their  ingenuity. 
One  was  dressed  in  red,  another  in  white,  and  an 
other  in  blue.  One  of  them  had  discovered  and 
appropriated  an  old  pair  of  discarded  boots ;  the 
others  had  wrapped  their  feet  in  pieces  of  our  blank 
ets.  None  of  them  seemed  to  have  suffered  from 
the  cold.  They  had  been  awakened  by  the  dog» 
running  over  the  roof,  as  we  had  feared  would  be 
the  case.  The  opium  did  not  seem  to  have  had 
more  than  a  brief  effect. 

The  cunning  fellows  had  found  means  to  light  the 
lamp  ;  and  discovering  that  we  had  taken  their 
sledges  and  had  abandoned  the  hut,  they  had  evi 
dently  resolved  not  to  be  altogether  losers  by  the 
operation;  and,  in  a  business-like  manner,  they 
had  proceeded  to  collect  whatever  they  could  carry 
away.  In  addition  to  the  presents  which  we  had 
made  them,  they  had  upon  their  sledge  several  tin- 
cups  and  tin-plates,  a  spoon,  an  old  russia  cap, 
a  part  of  my  lost  manuscript  records,  and  some 
other  small  articles ;  the  useful  and  the  useless  all 
piled  together.  These  things  had  been  carried  under 
their  arms  until  they  found  the  sledge.  They  had 
left  the  hut  expecting  to  walk  to  Netlik  or  they 
would  doubtless  have  taken  more. 

As  a  proof  of  our  disposition  to  trust  them  we 
restored  their  clothing ;  and  as  they  slipped  into 
their  jumpers,  and  tied  on  their  moccasins,  I  could 
not  but  reflect  that  this  was  a  strange  way  to 
make  people  happy.  A  more  grateful  set  of  fellows 
I  had  never  seen.  Our  plan  had  succeeded  better 


AREIVAL  AT  NETLIK.  299 

than  was  anticipated ;  for  they  did  not  attempt  to 
touch  dogs,  sledge,  or  even  a  whip  until  they  were 
bidden. 

We  were  soon  under  way ;  and,  running  around 
the  cape,  we  headed  in  for  Netlik.  The  time  occu 
pied  in  re'aching  it  was  greatly  protracted  in  conse 
quence  of  our  being  obliged  to  walk  or  run  during 
at  least  one  third  of  the  time,  in  order  to  prevent  our 
selves  from  freezing. 

"We  were  first  made  aware  that  we  approached 
the  village  by  the  howling  of  an  immense  pack  of 
dogs,  which  grouped  themselves  together  on  the 
white  hill-side,  and  set  up  their  wild  concert,  that 
could  be  heard  at  the  distance  of  several  miles.  As 
we  neared  the  shore,  a  crowd  of  men,  women,  and 
children  came  down  over  the  ice-foot  to  meet  us. 

The  savages,  to  the  number  of  about  fifty,  assem 
bled  around  us  the  moment  we  came  to  a  halt. 
Among  them  I  recognized  many  familiar  faces. 
Everybody  seemed  greatly  surprised  to  see  us,  espe 
cially  under  such  auspices.  They  were  all  eager  for 
news, — why  we  came,  and  why  we  had  been 
brought,  seemed  to  be  the  prevailing  questions. 

Feeling  that  it  was  still  necessary  to  maintain 
the  tone  of  authority  with  which  we  had  com 
menced  the  adventure,  we  met  all  their  advances 
with  reserve.  Without  giving  time  for  an  invita 
tion,  we  told  Kalutunah  that  three  of  us  would  go 
to  each  of  the  two  huts ;  and,  having  stopped  there 
long  enough  to  eat  and  sleep,  we  would  continue 
our  journey.  For  the  benefit  of  the  assembled  mul 
titude,  just  so  much  of  the  Cape  Parry  pantomime 
was  repeated  as  was  necessary  to  draw  from  Kalu- 


300  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

tunah  and  his  two  companions  a  renewal  of  their 
pledges,  with  which  they  were  no  less  prompt  than 
on  the  previous  occasion.* 

Our  situation  required  the  use  of  whatever  ad 
vantage  could  be  drawn  from  the  superstitious  fear 
which  the  savages  had  of  our  weapons.  The  Es 
quimaux  outnumbered  us  as  eight  to  one ;  we  were 
half  dead  with  cold,  hunger,  and  fatigue  ;  we  could 
not  even  feel  assured  that  our  guns  were  in  a  con 
dition  to  be  discharged  ;  and  with  much  of  our 
prestige  destroyed  by  preceding  events,  we  had 
good  reason  to  doubt  our  ability  to  maintain  our 
selves  in  case  of  any  general  excitement  of  the 
people  into  whose  midst  we  had  been  thrown. 

The  dogs  were  given  in  charge  of  the  boys,  and 
we  proceeded  to  the  village.  Mr.  Sonntag,  taking 
with  him  John  and  "Whipple,  was  conducted  to  the 
hut  of  the  chief,  while  I,  with  Stephenson  and 
Godfrey,  was  taken  by  Kalutunah  to  his  own  man 
sion. 

The  settlement  was  now  greatly  enlarged  by  the 
people  who  had  come  from  the  south ;  and  as  I 
Walked  up  from  the  beach  I  observed  several  snow- 
houses  grouped  around  the  two  stone  hovels  which 
constituted  the  permanent  portion  of  the  village. 

*  In  relation  to  the  knowledge  of  fire-arms,  the  reader  will  observe  a 
great  difference  between  the  Esquimaux  of  Smith  Strait  and  those  men 
tioned  in  the  reports  of  the  later  English  Expeditions  to  the  north  coasts 
of  America.  The  former  had,  with  a  few  exceptions  in  cases  where 
communication  had  been  held  with  the  whale  and  discovery  ships  about 
Cape  York,  no  practical  acquaintance  whatever  with  the  terrible  weapons 
of  the  white  men,  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  Advance;  and  although  a 
vague  account  of  our  guns  must  have  spread  through  the  settlements,  yet 
we  owed  our  safety  to  the  fact  that  the  "  charm  "  of  novelty  had  not  been 
dispelled  before  we  were  thrown  among  the  savages  without  other  pro 
tection  than  the  threats  narrated  in  the  text. 


KALUTUNAH'S  HUT.  301 

In  these  snow-houses  the  moving  families  which 
we  had  recently  entertained  in  our  hut  at  Booth 
Bay  were  temporarily  sojourning. 

Kalutunah,  in  order  the  better  to  keep  out  the 
wind,  had  lengthened  with  snow  the  covered  en 
trance  to  his  hut,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  crawl 
fully  twenty  feet  before  we  emerged  into  the  dirnly 
lighted  apartment.  It  was  completely  deserted,  the 
inmates  having  gone  down  to  meet  the  sledges ; 
but  they  were  close  behind  us  with  others  drawn 
by  curiosity,  and  all  came  pouring  in  until  the  place 
seemed  likely  to  be  more 'tightly  packed  than  it  was 
when  I  visited  it  in  September.  The  discomfort 
which  would  thus  be  caused,  and  the  embarrass 
ment  to  be  anticipated  in  case  any  hostile  feeling 
toward  us  should  spring  up,  induced  me  to  request 
Kalutunah  not  to  admit  any  other  persons  than  the 
ordinary  inmates.  He  hesitated,  manifestly  regard 
ing  my  procedure  as  an  invasion  of  his  authority, 
and  he  looked  for  a  moment  as  though  he  would 
ask  "  is  not  my  house  my  own  ?  "  The  exigence, 
however,  appeared  to  justify  a  little  forwardness  on 
my  part,  which  being  clearly  expressed  with  the 
aid  of  a  hint  towards  the  "  boom,"  the  intruders 
retired  from  the  hut  and  from  the  passage,  leaving 
only  about  a  dozen  persons  within.  Fortunately 
several  of  these  were  small  children. 

Oh  the  luxury  of  that  savage  den  !  Ten  weeks 
before,  when  I  visited  it,  it  was  to  me  the  embodi 
ment  of  all  that  was  most  repulsive  ;  now  it  was 
a  real  "  weary  man's  rest."  Our  enfeebled  bodies 
had  just  been  exposed  during  fifteen  consecutive 
hours,  in  travelling  between  forty  and  fifty  miles. 

26 


802  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

So  great  was  the  exhaustion  of  one  of  the  party  that 
he  fell  from  debility  alone  the  moment  he  went 
into  the  cold  air.  We  were  in  a  fit  condition  to 
appreciate  the  blessings  of  a  place  where  we  could 
lie  down  without  the  certainty  of  freezing ;  and  we 
indulged  in  no  close  criticism  of  our  surroundings. 

We  received  all  manner  of  kind  attentions  from 
our  host.  The  women  pulled  off  our  boots,  mittens, 
coats,  and  stockings,  and  hung  them  up  to  dry. 
My  beard  was  frozen  fast  to  the  fur  of  my  coat ; 
and  it  was  the  warm  hand  of  Kalutunah's  wife 
that  thawed  away  the  ice.  Meats  of  different 
kinds  were  brought  in  and  offered  to  us  in  the  only 
styles  known  to  the  Esquimau  cuisine,  that  is,  par 
boiled  and  raw ;  or  as  Stephenson  more  elegantly 
expressed  it,  "  cooked  with  fire,"  and  "  cooked  with 
frost ; "  but  our  fatigue  had  destroyed  our  appe 
tites,  and  the  warmth  of  the  hut  soon  so  overcame 
us  that  we  fell  asleep  in  the  very  act  of  taking  food 
from  the  hand  of  our  hostess.  Now  that  the  stimu 
lus  under  which  we  had  been  acting  was  removed, 
scarcely  anything  could  have  prevented  us  from 
sleeping  at  the  end  of  the  first  half-hour  of  our 
stay  in  that  close,  warm  place.  The  hut  was 
warmer  by  120°  than  the  atmosphere  to  which  we 
had  been  so  long  exposed. 

I  lay  down  among  a  promiscuous  collection  of 
half-clad  and  un-clad  men,  women,  and  children ; 
and  my  first  consciousness  was  of  some  one  pull 
ing  at  my  feet.  It  was  the  mistress  of  the  estab 
lishment,  who  had  prepared  for  us  a  plentiful  meal ; 
and  we  were  soon  doing  such  justice  to  the  boiled 
steaks  of  bear,  and  the  frozen  steaks  of  seal,  as 


DEPARTURE  FROM  NETLIK.  303 

need  not  have  shamed  an  Esquimau  hunter.  An 
other  long  nap  followed  this  feast ;  another  feast 
followed  the  nap;  and  so  on  alternately  through 
greater  or  less  stages,  until  we  had  recovered  from 
our  fatigue  and  were  strengthened  by  our  good 
fare.  We  then  signified  to  Kalutunah  that  we 
were  prepared  to  start;  and  in  a  few  minutes  he 
had  everything  ready  for  us.  The  stars  told  us 
that  we  had  been  resting  about  twenty-seven  hours. 
Taking  leave  of  the  good  people  of  Netlik,  we 
clambered  down  over  the  ice-foot,  and  then  mount 
ing  the  sledges,  we  followed  the  path  among  the 
hummocks  which  Kalutunah's  son  picked  for  us, 
until  we  were  clear  of,  the  bay,  when,  waving  adieu 
to  the  young  Esquimaux  who  had  followed  us,  we 
continued  our  journey  over  the  frozen  sea. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

OVER   THE    FROZEN    SEA. 

OUR  course  was  toward  Northumberland  Island, 
which,  as  the  crow  flies,  is  about  twenty  miles  from 
Netlik ;  but  as  we  were  obliged  to  make  several 
detours,  in  order  to  avoid  the  extensive  ridges  of 
broken  ice  which  lay  parallel  with  the  axis  of  the 
channel,  the  distance  actually  travelled  by  us  was 
nearly  thirty  miles. 

Our  destination  was  reached  in  about  six  hours. 
The  natives  of  the  island  came  out  to  meet  us. 
We  found  here,  as  at  Netlik,  two  substantial  stone- 
huts  ;  to  each  of  which  three  of  us  were  conducted, 
and  placed  in  charge  of  the  mistress  of  the  estab 
lishment. 

These  two  huts  belonged  to  the  before-mentioned 
brothers,  Amalatok  and  Kingiktok ;  and  each  hut 
being  occupied  by  only  one  family,  our  quarters 
were  neither  as  distressingly  close,  nor  as  uncom- 
foiiably  warm  as  the  huts  of  Netlik.  Kingiktok 
fulfilled  graciously  his  duties  as  host ;  and  his  wife 
in  concert  with  the  witch-wife  of  Amalatok  exerted 
herself  to  make  us  comfortable.  Our  boots,  stock 
ings,  coats,  and  mittens  were  hung  to  dry ;  and  then 
food  and  water  were  given  to  us.  The  food  was 


FROZEN  BIRDS.  305 

the  flesh  of  birds  and  was  abundant  in  quantity ; 
and,  although  served  as  usual,  namely,  parboiled 
and  frozen,  it  was  very  acceptable.  The  water 
was  melted  snow ;  and,  having  been  prepared  in 
a  pot  which  had  probably  never  been  cleansed,  and 
being  drunk  from  a  seal-skin  dish  which  could  not 
be  cleansed,  was  not,  on  the  other  hand,  to  be  com 
mended. 

Northumberland  Island  is,  during  the  breeding 
season,  a  favorite  resort  of  the  little  auk ;  and  with 
a  providence  which  I  had  not  seen  among  the  Es 
quimaux  in  other  places,  the  people  here  seem  to 
have  collected  the  birds  in  great  numbers.  Soon 
after  our  arrival  one  of  the  women  brought  into  the 
hut  a  solid  cube  of  them,  a  foot  in  diameter.  This 
was  the  contents  of  one  of  their  caches,  made  during 
the  last  summer.  The  birds  had  been  thrown  in  as 
they  were  caught,  and  they  were  now  all  frozen  to 
gether  en  masse.  We  were  at  liberty  to  break  them 
off  with  a  stone,  one  at  a  time,  and,  after  removing 
the  skin,  to  eat  them  in  their  actual  condition,  —  or  to 
wait  until  the  women  should  have  cooked  them.  We 
practised  both  -alternatives.  The  pot  would  not  hold 
more  than  half  a  dozen  birds  at  one  time,  and  it  was 
replenished  as  fast  as  emptied.  Our  stay  was  pro 
longed  in  consequence  of  a  light  wind  which  had 
sprung  up  from  the  northeast. 

This  halt  and  abundant  feeding  did  much  to  re 
store  our  strength,  and  we  were  in  no  haste  to  start, 
for  every  hour  added  to  our  gain  of  physical  energy. 
Knowing  that  we  should  be  compelled,  either  to 
camp  in  a  snow-house  upon  the  ice-fields,  or  to 
perform  a  long  journey  to  reach  again  an  Esqui- 

26* 


S06  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

man  hut,  we  had  reason  to  be  thankful  that  the 
wind  had  come  to  detain  us  ;  for,  although  our  drivers 
were  as  much  as  ever  disposed  to  obey  us,  yet  it 
would  have  been  highly  impolitic  to  restrain  their 
eagerness  to  push  forward. 

We  learned  at  this  place  that  our  friends  Petersen 
and  Bonsall  had  been  there  before  us ;  and,  having 
made  a  long  halt,  had  gone  northward  under  the 
guidance  of  Amalatok. 

We  parted  from  our  savage  hosts  as  soon  as  the 
wind  had  died  away ;  and  we  headed  up  the  strait 
which  separates  Northumberland  from  Herbert  Isl 
and  ;  but  our  progress  in  this  direction  was  arrested 
by  an  impenetrable  barrier  of  hummocks,  which 
obliged  us  to  alter  our  course  to  the  eastward.  The 
light  was  not  sufficient  to  enable  us  to  see  the  con 
dition  of  the  track  far  in  advance,  and  after  pro 
ceeding  a  short  distance  on  our  new  route  we  found 
ourselves  in  a  sort  of  cul  de  sac^  almost  completely 
surrounded  by  rough  ice.  In  every  direction  there 
was  to  be  seen  only  a  succession  of  apparently  end 
less  ridges  of  crushed  tables,  piled  up  in  many  places 
to  the  height  of  thirty  or  forty  feet. 

The  Esquimaux  have  a  great  horror  of  these  rugged 
barriers,  and  always  avoid  them  where  it  is  possible 
to  do  so,  even  at  the  expense  of  greatly  increasing 
their  distance  ;  but  there  was  clearly  now  no  course 
for  us  but  to  attempt  to  penetrate  through  the  wil 
derness  in  the  direction  of  Herbert  Island,  which  ap 
peared  to  be  about  seven  or  eight  miles  from  us. 
Retreating  a  few  paces  we  discovered  a  narrow  lead, 
which  was  entered  ;  and  we  followed  its  numerous 
tortuosities  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  Here  it 


AMONG  THE  HUMMOCKS.  307 

was  found  to  end,  and  we  were  all  compelled  to  dis 
mount  and  clamber  over  a  jagged  pile  of  ice,  beyond 
which  we  were  disappointed  in  not  again  finding  a 
lead.  For  several  hours  we  toiled  on,  winding  in  all 
directions,  seeking  the  smoothest,  or  rather  I  should 
say  the  least  rough,  places.  Of  course  we  could  not 
ride. 

At  length,  after  having  travelled,  as  we  supposed, 
about  ten  miles,  and  having  made  in  linear  distance 
about  three,  we  came  upon  a  moderately  level  plain, 
and  resumed  our  place?  upon  the  sledges.  By  hold 
ing  a  northeast  course,  to  avoid  the  rough  barrier 
which  we  had  passed,  we  reached,  at  length,  the 
island  for  which  we  had  been  steering.  During  this 
trying  journey  across  the  channel  Stephenson  bore 
up  bravely,  and  astonished  all  of  us  by  his  en 
durance. 

Upon  meeting  the  shore  we  mounted  to  the  land- 
ice,  and  ran  at  good  speed  over  its  level  surface, 
along  the  base  of  the  sloping  debris  which  lay  un 
der  the  weather-worn  cliffs.  An  hour's  comfortable 
travelling  brought  us  to  the  north  side  of  the  island, 
where,  descending  again  to  the  field-ice,  we  struck 
out  across  the  north  arm  of  Whale  Sound, •  directly 
for  the  main  land,  the  distant  mountains  of  which, 
dimly  illuminated  by  the  moon,  loomed  up  in  the 
north  and  northeast.  The  landmark  toward  which 
our  drivers  were  steering  was  Cape  Robertson. 
Near  this  cape  we  knew  that  the  village  of  Karsooit 
was  situated  ;  but  we  feared  that  it  was  so  far  to  the 
eastward  that  it  could  not  be  reached  by  us  without 
going  too  much  out  of  our  way,  and  we  therefore 
looked  forward,  with  no  little  disrelish,  to  camping 


308  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

in  a  snow-hut.  It  soon  became  evident  to  us,  how 
ever,  that  our  drivers  were  leading  us  toward  the 
village ;  and,  seeing  that  we  were  growing  cold, 
they  gave  us  the  encouraging  assurance  that  igloe 
(huts)  and  koona  (women)  were  before  us. 

Our  track  was  now  almost  as  smooth  and  level  as 
a  floor,  except  that  here  and  there  it  was  made  gently 
undulating  by  the  unequal  snow-drifts.  Our  dogs 
galloped  swiftly  over  it.  The  islands  sank  rapidly 
behind  us,  and  the  land  in  front  grew  more  distinct. 
We  were  encircled  by  an  ice-horizon,  and  there  was 
not  within  sight  a  single  object  to  break  the  uniform 
smoothness  of  the  white  field,  except  an  occasional 
berg  which  threw  its  long  dark  shadow  upon  the 
glistening  plain. 

I  was  struck  with  the  character  of  the  snow. 
The  temperature  was  lower  than  it  had  been  on  any 
previous  occasion  of  our  exposure,  and  the  intense 
cold  had  so  hardened  the  crystals  that  we  seemed  to 
be  travelling  over  a  bed  of  sand.  The  sledges  did 
not  move  with  their  accustomed  freedom.  To  over 
come  the  friction  which  retarded  our  progress,  our 
drivers  resorted  to  an  ingenious,  though  simple,  ex 
pedient.  Halting  at  short  intervals,  they  capsized 
their  sledges,  and,  dissolving  in  their  mouths  a  piece 
of  ice  or  snow,  they  moistened  their  fingers  and 
applied  them  to  the  under  surface  of  the  runner. 
Thus  was  instantly  formed  a  thin  film  of  ice. 

We  halted  once  for  a  meal.  One  of  the  sledges 
was  unlashed,  and  a  piece  of  bear-meat  and  another 
of  narwhal-blubber  were  produced.  The  latter  of 
these  was  of  the  consistency  of  well-hardened  butter, 
and  was  pared  off  in  delicate  slices ;  but  the  meat 


SLEDGE-TRAVELLIHG.  309 

was  so  solid  that  we  could  not  without  difficulty 
break  it  to  pieces.  We  made,  nevertheless,  a  good 
repast,  and  being  thereby  greatly  refreshed  we  pro 
ceeded  on  our  way.  It  is  astonishing  how  soon  one 
grows  hungry  in  those  low  temperatures. 

Our  progress  was  also  much  retarded  in  conse 
quence  of  our  being  obliged  frequently  to  dismount 
and  walk,  or  rather  to  run,  in  order  to  keep  ourselves 
from  freezing.  Although  at  such  times  we  were 
supported  by  the  up-standers,  which  we  grasped  with 
our  hands ;  yet,  even  with  this  assistance,  it  was 
sometimes  found  necessary  to  check  the  dogs,  in 
order  to  accommodate  their  movements  to  our 
ability. 

Towards  the  latter  part  of  the  journey  we  became 
seriously  alarmed,  in  consequence  of  a  light  wind 
springing  up  from  the  northeast.  To  face  a  strong 
breeze  in  such  a  temperature  was  quite  impossible. 
The  first  puffs  which  came  cut  our  faces  severely, 
and  chilled  us  through  and  through  ;  but  fortunately 
we  were  soon  under  the  shelter  of  the  high  cliffs  of 
the  main-land. 

The  coast  reached,  we  headed  up  a  narrow  inlet 
toward  the  village.  As  heretofore,  our  coming  was 
proclaimed  by  the  howling  of  dogs,  and  very  soon  a 
bright  light  was  seen  glimmering  on  the  white  hill. 
Never  did  light  glow  with  a  brighter  welcome.  A 
faint  cheer  broke  from  our  party  as  it  burst  into 
view.  We  had  travelled  at  least  fifty  miles. 

The  sledges  halted  close  to  the  beach,  and  three 
of  the  party  were  immediately  conducted  into  the 
hut  where  the  light  had  been  discovered.  The  rest 
of  us  were  taken  about  half  a  mile  further,  to  a 


310  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOUBNEY. 

similar  shelter.  These  dens  were  the  very  counter 
part  of  those  in  which  we  had  been  quartered  at 
Netlik.  They  were  packed  full  of  human  beings, 
and  were  hot,  close,  and  foul.  The  comforts,  how 
ever,  far  outweighed  the  discomforts,  and  we  were 
duly  thankful  for  the  change.  We  suffered  most 
annoyance  from  the  heat.  Passing  from  a  tem 
perature  of  50°  below  zero  to  one  of  75°  above  it 
was  a  severe  trial  to  the  animal  economy ;  and  we 
could  do  nothing  else  than  accept  the  good  offices 
of  our  hosts,  who  proposed  immediately  to  divest  us 
of  our  clothing.  To  their  astonishment,  however, 
we  persisted  in  retaining  some  portions  of  our  arti 
ficial  covering. 

A  large  seal,  which  had  been  recently  caught,  lay 
in  the  middle  of  the  floor  when  we  entered.  And 
to  it  we  did  ample  justice.  Our  drivers  came  in, 
each  writh  a  seal-skin  tub,  and  carried  off  the  refuse 
portions  for  their  dogs ;  but  soon  afterward  joined 
us  in  the  feast. 

After  finishing  the  meal,  and  taking  a  short  nap,  I 
paid  a  visit  to  the  other  hut.  It  belonged  to  our 
old  enemy,  Sip-su.  The  gruff  savage  had  not  re 
lented  in  the  least,  and  he  showed  no  disposition  to 
oblige  his  uninvited  and  unwelcome  guests.  Al 
though  he  had  evidently  been  astonished  and  in 
timidated  by  the  unceremonious  manner  in  which  he 
had  been  treated  by  his  visitors,  it  was  clear  that 
he  was  not  mollified. 

Our  halt  here  was  not  as  long  as  our  two  former 
ones ;  and,  when  well  refreshed,  we  started  again  on 
our  journey.  Our  route  lay  along  the  crooked  coast, 
and  passing  in  quick  succession  dark  capes,  white 


AN  EXHILARATING  RIDE.  311 

glaciers,  broad  bays,  and  narrow  inlets,  we  brought 
up,  at  the  end  of  five  hours,  in  a  double  hut  which 
stands  on  the  shore  of  a  small  bay  to  the  south  of 
Cape  Saumarez. 

The  ride  was  exhilarating,  and  in  all  respects 
pleasant.  We  were  not  exposed  long  enough  to 
grow  either  tired  or  cold.  We  had  four  sledges,  — 
an  old  hunter  named  Ootinah  having  joined  us  at 
Karsooit.  The  track  was  quite  smooth,  and  the 
dogs,  as  fresh  at  the  end  as  at  the  beginning  of  the 
journey,  kept  up  a  constant  gallop.  Encouraged  by 
the  familiar  cries  of  their  masters,  they  would  now 
and  then  dash  off  at  a  furious  pace,  each  team  striv 
ing  to  outstrip  the  Others.  We  averaged  in  speed 
about  six  miles  an  hour,  and  must  have  made  some 
times,  for  a  short  distance,  fully  ten.  The  snarling 
of  the  dogs  as  one  team  after  another  shot  ahead, 
the  crack  of  the  whips,  the  merry  laughs  and  the 
encouraging  "  Ka !  ka !  —  Ka !  ka  !  "  of  the  drivers, 
and  the  creaking  of  the  sledges,  still  ring  in  my 
ears  ;  and  they  are  the  more  pleasantly  remembered, 
because  they  bring  this  day  into  striking  .contrast 
with  that  which  followed. 

We  quitted  the  double  hut  after  a  few  hours. 
The  Esquimaux  told  us,  before  starting,  that  our 
next  halt  would  be  at  Etah,  which  we  knew  to  be 
the  most  northern  of  the  native  villages.  To  reach 
that  village  we  must  pass  "the  blowing  place/' 
(Cape  Alexander.)  We  therefore  had  before  us  a 
day's  journey  of  sixty  miles,  which  we  had  some 
reason  to  dread  ;  for  the  Esquimaux,  whenever 
alluding  to  Cape  Alexander,  did  it  with  a  shrug 
and  a  shiver.  Besides,  our  experience  of  thn  cape 


312  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

in  September,  when  our  boats  were  nearly  swamped, 
was  fresh  in  our  recollection.  We  had  grown  so 
inured  to  *the  cold  that  we  did  not  fear  exposure, 
during  any  reasonable  period,  to  any  temperature, 
especially  now  that  we  had  recovered  so  much 
strength  ;  but  neither  we  nor  our  drivers  could  live 
long  in  a  December  wind.  The  Esquimaux  of  the 
arctic  wastes  are  as  fearful  of  a  gale  as  are  the 
Bedouins  in  their  desert.  It  pelts  the  one  with  a 
cloud  of  snow,  and  it  buries  the  other  in  a  cloud  of 
sand ;  and  both  of  these  make  frequent  victims 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

ROUNDING    CAPE   ALEXANDER   AGAIN. 

THE  first  twenty  miles  of  the  distance  were 
passed  rapidly  and  comfortably,  and  the  monotony 
was  most  pleasingly  broken  by  a  chase  after  a  bear, 
and  by  another  after  a  fox.  The  fox  escaped  to 
the  shore,  and  the  bear  to  some  rough  ice.  Our 
drivers  were  anxious  to  continue  the  pursuit,  and 
it  was  not  without  some  difficulty  that  we  prevailed 
upon  them  to  relinquish  it.  Although  the  chase 
was  pleasant  and  exciting  while  we  were  on  smooth 
ice,  we  had  no  taste  for  bouncing  over  the  hum 
mocks  at  the  speed  of  a  pack  of  wild  dogs  in 
pursuit  of  prey. 

As  we  neared  Cape  Alexander  we  had  a  foretaste 
of  what  was  in  store  for  us.  When  many  miles 
to  the  south  of  it  we  were  overtaken  by  a  light 
southerly  wind,  which  increased  as  we  advanced  ; 
and  almost  at  the  very  moment  when  we  caught, 
through  the  thick  atmosphere,  the  first  faint  glimpse 
of  the  great  vertical  rock  which  as  a  monster  for 
tress  seemed  to  guard  the  entrance  to  the  Polar 
Ocean,  a  squall  struck  us.  It  gave  us  a  cheerless 
salute ;  and  being  mixed  with  a  cloud  of  fine  drift, 
and  coming  directly  into  our  faces,  it  cut  us  terribly. 

27 


814  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

Unable  to  bear  up  against  it  we  hauled  close  ttndei 
the  coast,  where  we  were  sheltered  during  our  pas 
sage  around  the  head  of  a  small  bay. 

The  cold  gust  which  came  down  upon  us  from 
the  cape  was  only  an  eddy ;  for,  when  outside  of 
the  little  bay  and  away  from  its  protecting  ice 
bergs  and  islands,  the  wind  was  found,  as  before, 
to  be  blowing  steadily  from  the  southward.  There 
was  something  cheering  in  this,  for  the  storm  was, 
at  least  partially,  at  our  backs. 

The  wind  soon  rose  to  a  moderate  gale.  The 
irregular  coast  eddied  it  back  into  our  faces ;  and 
to  escape  the  suffering  occasioned  by  these  fre 
quent  blasts  we  drew  further  away  from  the  land. 
The  ice,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  shore,  was 
found  to  have  been  in  places  bared  of  snow  by 
the  almost  constantly  prevailing  winds ;  and  over 
the  glassy  sheet  we  were  absolutely  driven  before 
the  gale.  The  dogs,  seldom  stretching  their  traces, 
ran  howling  from  the  sledges,  which  crowded  upon 
their  heels. 

It  was  a  wild  scene.  The  night  was  dark.  The 
moon  had  gone  far  down  behind  the  mountains, 
and  we  had  no  other  light  to  guide  us  than  the 
pale  glimmer  of  the  stars.  The  shadows  of  the 
cliffs,  whose  mighty  crests  towered  a  thousand  feet 
above  our  heads,  lay  coldly  upon  us,  and  intensi 
fied  the  midnight  gloom.  The  patches  of  snow 
which  hung  upon  the  abrupt  angles  of  the  giant 
wall  ;  the  white  sheet  which  lay  upon  its  lofty 
summit ;  the  glaciers  which  here  and  there  pro 
truded  through  its  clefts,  brought  out  in  bold  relief 
the  blackness  of  its  deep  recesses.  Tho  air  was  filled 


OPEN   WATER.  315 

with  clouds  of  drift,  which  sometimes  wholly  ob 
scured  the  land,  and  which  swept  fiercely  before  us 
over  the  icy  plain. 

At  length  a  dark  line  was  seen  to  cross  our  path ; 
wreaths  of  "  frost  smoke  "  were  curling  over  it,  and 
these  revealed  its  character.  "  Emerk  !  emerk  !  " 
(water!  water!)  was  the  cry  which  simultaneously 
broke  from  the  drivers.  The  headway  of  the  sledges 
was  stopped  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  we  brought 
up  at  only  a  few  yards  from  a  recently  opened  and 
rapidly  widening  crack.  Already  it  was  twenty 
feet  across. 

We  mounted  to  the  top  of  a  pile  of  hummocks 
and  peered  into  the.  darkness.  Cape  Alexander  was 
only  a  few  miles  in  advance.  The  ice  in  the  shal 
low  bay  on  its  southern  side  was  severed  by  numer 
ous  cracks ;  while  beyond,  starting  from  the  foot  of 
the  cape,  a  broad  sheet  of  water  spread  itself  to 
the  westward.  Its  dark  surface,  agitated  by  the 
wind,  was  covered  with  white  caps ;  and  here  and 
there  a  frosty  surf  was  breaking  over  a  small  berg 
or  vagrant  floe.  The  pieces  of  ice  which  lay  along 
its  margin  were  in  motion,  and  their  hard  faces 
were  grinding  tumultuously  together.  The  clamor 
made  by  these,  the  ceaseless  beating  of  the  surf, 
the  moaning  of  the  wind,  the  rattling  of  the  drift, 
the  piteous  wailing  of  the  dogs,  were  so  loud  that 
we  could  scarcely  hear  each  other  speak  ;  and  the 
force  of  the  gale  was  so  great  that  we  were  almost 
blown  from  the  pinnacle  to  which  we  had  climbed. 

Our  situation  seemed  almost  desperate.  To  cross 
over  the  land  was  impossible,  for  there  was  no  break 
in  the  cliffs  by  which  we  could  ascend.  To  turn 


316  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

about  and  hunt  for  a  land-passage,  would  have  been 
certain  death,  for  we  could  not  face  the  storm.  Our 
drivers,  more  hardy  than  we,  were  for  going  back. 
Rendered  almost  frantic  by  suffering,  we  were  in  no 
condition  to  hear  such  a  proposition,  and  again  the 
pistol  did  its  work  of  intimidation.  We  had  caught 
a  glimpse  of  the  white  ice-foot  hanging  above  the 
water  at  the  base  of  the  cliffs ;  and  by  this  we  were 
determined  to  attempt  a  passage. 

Returning  to  the  land,  we  ascended  the  ice-foot 
by  a  ladder  made  with  our  sledges,  and  then  ran 
rapidly  along  its  level  surface.  In  a  few  minutes 
we  were  beyond  the  crack  which  had  baffled  us; 
but  coming  soon  afterward  to  a  small  hanging 
glacier  we  were  obliged  to  return  to  the  field-ice. 
We  had  gone  only  a  short  distance  over  this  before 
we  met  another  chasm.  Running  along  its  margin, 
eagerly  seeking  an  opportunity  to  cross  it,  we  came 
at  length  opposite  to  a  point  of  ice,  which,  project 
ing  beyond  the  general  line  of  fracture,  narrowed 
the  chasm  to  about  four  feet.  It  was  impossible 
to  ascertain  in  the  darkness  whether  or  not  this 
projection  was  fast.  There  was  not  a  moment  to 
lose.  Every  instant  diminished  our  chances  of  a 
passage ;  for  the  floe  was  moving  off,  and  the  crack 
was  widening.  Already  we  had  consumed  much 
time  in  fruitless  searching.  Resolved  to  takfc  the 
risk,  I  sprang  upon  the  supposed  tongue ;  but  when 
too  late  I  discovered  that  it  was  loose.  The  treach 
erous  raft  sank  beneath  my  weight,  and  I  went  down 
into  the  cold  sea. 

I  struggled  to  gain  the  opposite  side.  In  the 
effort  the  lump  of  ice  which  was  still  under  my 


'WINDING  ALONG  THE  ICE-FOOT.  317 

feet  tilted,  and  losing  my  equilibrium  I  {ell  back 
ward,  and  should  have  gone  completely  under  had 
not  Stephenson  been  standing  close  to  the  spot 
whence  I  had  sprung.  Reaching  forward  as  I  in 
clined  toward  him,  he  caught  me  under  the  arms 
and  drew  me  out. 

I  owe  my  preservation  to  the  timely  aid  of  my 
former  patient ;  for  although  there  was  but  little 
danger  of  my  drowning,  with  so  many  persons  at 
hand  to  render  assistance,  my  life  would  not  have 
been  worth  an  hour's  purchase,  if  I  had  remained 
long  enough  in  the  water  to  become  thoroughly  wet 
ted,  and  had  then  been  landed  on  the  ice,  in  a  gale 
of  wind,  with  the  "temperature  below  the  freezing- 
point  of  mercury.  As  it  was,  my  skin-clothing 
turned  the  water,  and  only  a  little  penetrated 
through  the  opening  between  my  pantaloons  and 
boots.  Falling  upon  my  knees,  and  elevating  my 
feet,  I  drained  this  out  as  well  as  I  could ;  and  Mr. 
Sonntag  having  in  the  mean  time  found  a  better 
crossing,  I  joined  the  sledges  as  the  last  resisting 
dog  was  thrown  over  the  crack. 

Our  faces  were  once  more  turned  toward  the 
coast.  My  clothing  was  soon  so  stiffened  with  ice 
that  I  could  scarcely  run,  and  the  water  which  had 
trickled  down  into  my  boots  burned  like  melted 
lead. 

We  were  soon  back  upon  the  ice-foot;  and  fol 
lowing  its  numerous  windings  we  reached  at  length 
the  open  water.  Here  we  were  rejoiced  to  find  a 
smooth  surface  and  abundant  room  for  a  passage. 
In  occasional  places  the  "  foot "  was  ten  yards  in 
width,  but  more  frequently  from  one  to  two  yards ; 

27* 


818  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

and  sometimes  where  there  was  an  unusual  pro 
trusion  of  the  cliff  it  was  scarcely  wider  than  the 
sleds. 

We  continued  to  wind  along  this  varying  ledge 
without  interruption  until  we  came  to  the  outer 
extremity  of  the  cape,  where  a  sharp  rock  pro 
jected  into  the  water.  Here  for  the  space  of  sev 
eral  feet  the  belt  was  not  more  than  fifteen  inches 
wide,  and  it  was  sloping.  The  word  "halt"  was 
passed  along  the  line,  and  men  and  dogs  crouched 
behind  the  rocks  for  shelter.  The  wind  was"  still 
blowing  furiously,  lashing  the  waves  against  the 
frozen  shore  at  our  feet,  whirling  great  sheets  of 
snow  down  upon  us  from  the  overhanging  cliffs, 
and  howling  like  an  army  of  demons.  We  could 
not  face  the  storm  of  drift,  which  pelted  mercilessly 
upon  our  backs,  and  to  go  forward  appeared  to  be 
impossible ;  yet  this  we  must  try.  Advancing  to 
the  point,  I  discarded  my  mittens,  and,  clinging 
with  my  bare  hands  to  the  crevices  in  the  rock,  I 
moved  cautiously  along  the  sloping  shelf.  Twenty 
feet  vertically  below  me,  the  water,  black  as  ink, 
except  where  it  was  breaking  into  surf,  yawned  to 
receive  any  victim  whom  an  inadvertent  step  might 
precipitate  into  it.  I  shall  not  soon  forget  the  emo 
tions  of  joy  and  thankfulness  with  which  I  found 
myself  safely  landed  upon  the  broad  belt  at  the 
further  side  of  the  dangerous  place. 

Now  came  the  troublesome  operation  of  getting 
over  the  dogs.  These  were  driven  forward  by  their 
masters,  and  being  seized  by  their  collars,  were  one 
by  one  dragged  around  the  point.  Then  the  sledges 
were  pushed  along  the  shelf,  and  were  there  held 


ARRIVAL   AT   ETAH.  319 

on  one  runner  until  the  dogs  could  stretch  their 
traces,  when,  bounding  forward  in  obedience  to  a 
fierce  "  ka !  ka ! "  the  animals  whirled  them  into 
safety  before  they  could  topple  over  the  precipice. 
The  teams,  each  accompanied  by  its  driver,  having 
all  been  thus  brought  over,  the  remainder  of  the 
party  followed.  Except  some  frost-bites  upon  our 
fingers,  the  scars  of  which  we  will  carry  with  us 
to  our  graves,  the  passage  was  made  without  an 
accident. 

Continuing  on  our  course,  tortured  at  every  turn 
with  anxiety  lest  we  should  ultimately  reach  a  spot 
where  the  ice-foot  was  gone  altogether,  we  were  at 
length  gladdened  by  a  glimpse  of  the  broad  ice 
field  of  Etah  Bay,  and  by  the  discovery  that  this 
limited  the  open  water. 

Since  first  coming  within  view  of  Cape  Alex 
ander  we  had  travelled  fully  fifteen  miles,  at  least 
one  third  of  which  distance  was  upon  this  unsafe 
shelf  above  a  foaming  sea.  All  of  us  had  been 
more  or  less  frozen  in  the  interval. 

The  ice-foot  grew  wider  as  we  advanced  ;  and 
at  length  we  were  opposite  to  the  before-mentioned 
plain.  To  this  we  descended,  and  then  headed  for 
the  native  village  of  Etah,  which  was  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  miles  distant.  The  track  was  smooth, 
the  wind  greatly  lightened  the  draught,  the  whips 
were  not  spared,  and  after  a  rapid  run  we  reached 
our  destination,  more  dead  tHan  alive. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

REACHING    THE    BRIG. 

WE  found  Amalatok  at  Etah,  and  we  were  told 
by  him  that  Petersen  and  Bonsall  had,  as  at  our 
other  halting-places,  preceded  us ;  that  they  were 
accompanied  by  several  sledges  ;  that  they  had 
passed  Cape  Alexander  over  land ;  *  that  after  hav 
ing  rested  they  had  continued  their  journey,  and 
had  reached  the  brig  in  safety  ;  but  that  being 
broken  down  and  unable  to  return,  and  the  crew 
of  the  Advance  being  sick,  Dr.  Kane  had  intrusted 
to  the  Esquimaux  some  provisions  which  they  were 
then  bringing  to  us. 

We  could  readily  credit  all  of  this  story  except 
the  latter  part  of  it;  for  some  partially  consumed 
pieces  of  pork  lay  strewn  about  the  hut,  proving 
conclusively  that  the  savages  had  been  false  to 
their  promises,  and  that  they  had  not  intended  to 
come  near  us.  We  afterward  learned  that  Dr. 
Kane,  had  promptly  loaded  four  sledges  with  pork 
and  bread,  and  that,  as  the  drivers  of  them  had  re 
ceived  many  valuable  presents,  it  was  thought  that 
their  faithfulness  had  been  secured ;  but  that  the 

*  Our  guides   did  not  know  of  the   mountain-pass    through   which 
Amalatok  had  led  Petersen  and  Bonsall. 


FROST-BITE.  321 

bread  had  been  thrown  away  before  they  were  fairly 
out  of  sight  of  the  brig,  and  the  pork  had  been 
appropriated  to  their  own  uses. 

The  wisdom  of  our  course  in  leaving  Booth  Bay 
was  now  clearly  evident,  although  our  journey  was 
yet  far  from  finished.  The  distance  from  Etah  to 
Rensselaer  Harbor  was  much  greater  than  any 
single  march  that  we  had  yet  accomplished.  Dr. 
Kane  estimates  it  at  ninety-one  miles ;  and  adopt 
ing  his  allowance  for  the  necessary  deviations  from 
a  straight  line  of  travel,  this  estimate  is  probably 
not  excessive. 

I  showed  my  frosted  feet  to  the  wise  doctors  of 
the  tribe ;  but  they  only  shook  their  heads.  Such 
rude  restoratives  as  I  could  command  were  applied, 
but  without  avail.  Wherever  the  water  had  touched 
the  skin  the  frost  had  gone  in  deeply,  and  life  could 
not  be  restored.  The  pain  was  very  severe ;  and  it 
was  evident  that  if  I  staid  in  the  warm  hut  long 
enough  to  allow  the  frozen  parts  to  become  thawed, 
I  should  not  be  able  to  finish  the  journey  to  the  brig. 
Tired  and  exhausted  as  I  was  by  so  long  an  ex 
posure,  my  suffering  was  .too  great  for  sleep ;  and 
after  we  had  been  housed  four:  hours,  I  awoke  Mr. 
Sonntag,  and  giving  up  to  him  the  charge  which 
hitherto  we  had  shared,  I  apprised  him  of  my  deter 
mination  to  start  immediately  for  the  vessel,  and 
requested  that  he  would  not  mention  my  absence 
to  the  party  until  they  had  thoroughly  rested. 

Taking  Ootinah  with  me  I  crawled  noiselessly 
out  of  the  hut,  and  then  explained  to  him  my  de 
sire  to  go  on  at  once.  He  quickly  comprehended 
both  my  situation  and  my  wants ;  and  with  a  dis- 


322  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

interestedness  which  I  never  saw  in  any  other  mem 
ber  of  his  tribe,  (for  he  did  not  ask  for  pay,)  he 
promptly  signified  his  disposition  to  accede  to  my 
request,  and  proceeded  to  harness  his  team.  This 
man  had  been  my  driver  since  leaving  Karsooit, 
and  he  seemed  to  have  formed  an  attachment  to 
me.  He  had,  during  the  last  hour  of  our  last  march, 
rendered  me  important  aid  by  pounding  my  stiffened 
limbs  with  his  whipstock.  I  remember  his  services 
with  gratitude. 

We  were  soon  under  way,  but  we  had  not  gone 
far  when  voices  were  heard  behind  us;  and  long 
before  reaching  Cape  Ohlsen  I  was  overtaken  by 
my  comrades,  each  one  having  now  a  separate 
sledge.  Appreciating  the  motive  which  had  in 
duced  them  to  follow,  I  nevertheless  regretted  their 
promptness ;  for  with  so  short  a  rest  after  so  hard 
a  journey,  I  felt  sure  that  they  were  running  a 
useless  risk. 

After  crossing  the  narrow  channel  which  lies  off 
Cape  Ohlsen,  we  rounded  the  north  cape  of  Lit 
tleton  Island,  and  held  off  from  the  coast  of  the 
main  land,  in  order  to  avoid  as  much  as  possible 
the  heavy  hummocks  which  lay  near  it.  Cape 
Hatherton  and  Refuge  Harbor  were  soon  at  our 
backs,  and  we  arrived  at  length  opposite  Anoatok. 
Here,  contrary  to  our  wishes,  we  were  detained  for 
some  time.  Passing  close  alongside  of  a  grounded 
ice-berg,  the  sharp  senses  of  the  dogs  discovered  a 
walrus  which  was  blowing  in  the  crack  at  its  base. 
Halting  their  teams,  the  hunters  seized  their  weap 
ons  and  watched  for  his  reappearance  ;  but  the 
animal  had  been  frightened  away,  and  did  not  again 


HUMMOCKS  AND   DARKNESS.  323 

show  himself.  While  the  Esquimaux  were  thus 
engaged,  we  crouched  into  a  recess  of  the  berg  for 
.shelter,  (for  the  wind  was  still  blowing  from  the 
south,)  and  we  availed  ourselves  of  'this  opportu 
nity  to  strengthen  ourselves  with  a  meal  of  frozen 
meat  and  blubber.  Prior  to  this  halt,  a  dash  after  a 
bear,  the  trail  of  which  fortunately  ran  for  several 
miles  directly  in  our  course,  gained  for  us  almost  as 
much  as  was  here  lost. 

We  were  now  about  ten  miles  from  the  coast,  to 
make  which  was  an  absolute  necessity ;  since  by 
following  the  outer  line  of  the  hummocked  ridges 
we  were  getting  further  and  further  from  the  land. 
We  had  all  good  reason  to  dread  the  effort  which 
it  must  cost  to  reach  the  shore,  for  nowhere  could 
we  detect  any  level  ice,  and  we  must  therefore  walk. 

One  of  the  party,  a  young  hunter  named  Myouk, 
pointed  out  to  us  a  track  by  which  he  had  passed 
on  his  way  to  the  brig,  and  which  had  been  se 
lected  by  daylight.  I  undertook  to  act  as  guide, 
and  for  a  time  experienced  no  difficulty  in  follow 
ing  the  track ;  but  coming  at  length  to  the  end 
of  everything  like  an  opening,  I  was  compelled 
to  rely  upon  an  attempt  to  follow  by  sight  the 
sledge-marks.  In  this  I  failed,  for  it  was  so  dark 
that  sometimes  even  when  upon  my  hands  and 
knees  I  could  scarcely  discover  the  impressions  of 
the  runners.  Fearful  that  I  should  lead  the  party 
into  an  impassable  labyrinth,  I  called  Myouk  to 
me.  Godfrey  took  his  whip.  The  superiority  of 
the  long  practised  sense  of  the  savage  over  mine 
was  at  once  seen ;  for  the  lines  which  I  could  not 
trace,  except  when  stooping,  he  followed,  for  •  the 


324  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

most  part,  in  an  erect  attitude.  Occasionally  he 
was  compelled  to  grope  about  upon  his  hands  and 
knees;  and  twice  he  led  us  off  upon  a  false  trail, 
once  obliging  us  to  retrace  our  steps  for  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile.  Except  that  there  was  no  moon, 
that  we  were  much  fatigued  at  starting,  and  that 
the  distance  was  twice  as  great,  this  journey  through 
the  mass  of  impacted  ice  was  much  like  the  passage 
already  described  from  Northumberland  to  Herbert 
Island. 

The  dilapidated  hut  at  Anoatok  was  at  length 
reached ;  and  the  party,  twelve  in  number,  crowded 
in  through  its  broken  doorway.  It  was  partially 
filled  with  drift,  and  offered  only  a  sorry  shelter. 
We  blocked  up  the  entrance  with  snow  from  the 
inside  to  keep  out  the  wind,  and  we  endeavored  to 
light  our  lamps  ;  but  in  some  unaccountable  man 
ner  both  our  tinder  and  that  of  the  Esquimaux  had 
become  damaged ;  and  after  many  fruitless  trials  we 
gave  up  the  attempt.  Without  fire,  and  without 
skins  in  which  to  wrap  ourselves,  we  could  not  long 
remain  in  this  place.  We  were  freezing,  and  must 
renew  our  activity,  or  speedily  succumb  to  the  cold. 

Our  failure  to  obtain  rest  at  the  hut  was  a  serious 
disappointment  to  all  of  us;  and  it  really  seemed 
impossible  that  we  could,  without  it,  finish  the 
march,  —  forty-one  miles  yet !  As  I  thought  of 
this,  I  confess  that  I  did  not  see  how  the  party  were 
to  bear  up  through  the  hours  of  exposure  which  the 
journey  must  require. 

Down  over  the  ice-foot  dashed  the  sledges ;  across 
a  little  bay;  up  the  ice-foot  on  the  further  side; 
across  Esquimau  point;  over  the  ice-foot  again  to 


ARRIVAL  AT   THE  BRIG.  325 

the  level  field  of  Bedevilled  Reach !     All  still  safe, 
—  the  most  rugged  part  of  our  journey  is  over! 

Whipple  now  alarmed  us  by  saying  that  he  did 
not  suffer  ;  —  he  was  becoming  stupefied  by  the  cold, 
and  others  of  us  were  rapidly  approaching  the  same 
condition.  As  we  passed  God-send  Island  he  fell 
from  the  sledge,  and  being  at  the  rear  his  absence 
was  not  noticed,  even  by  his  driver,  until  he  was  a 
hundred  yards  behind.  The  sledge  returned  for 
him,  and  the  teams  again  rushed  on.  The  track 
was  smooth,  though  de\ious,  and  we  rapidly  neared 
the  northern  shore  of  the  bay. 

.  We  were  soon  upon  the  land-ice  under  Cape 
Grinnell.  The  dogs,  excited  by  the  unceasing  crack 
ing  of  the  merciless  whips,  galloped  at  the  top  of 
their  speed.  It  was  a  race  of  life  and  death. 

The  hull  of  the  dismantled  brig  at  length  burst 
into  view;  and  a  few  minutes  afterward  we  were 
at  its  side.  So  much  were  my  senses  blunted  by 
the  cold  that  I  remember  scarcely  any  incident  of 
our  going  on  board,  except  that  Dr.  Kane  met  us 
at  the  gangway,  and,  grasping  me  warmly  by  the 
hand,  led  us  into  the  fireless,  frost-coated  cabin. 
It  was  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  and  all  hands 
except  the  watch  were  sleeping.  Ohlsen  was  "he 
first  to  catch  the  sound  of  our  coming ;  and  spring 
ing  from  his  cot  as  I  entered  the  door,  he  folded 
me  in  his  arms ;  and,  after  kissing  me  with  Scan 
dinavian  heartiness,  he  threw  me  into  the  warm 
bed  which  he  had  just  vacated. 

The  fire  was  kindled,  and  coffee  and  food  were 
served  to  us.  Such  necessary  attentions  as  men  in 
our  condition  required,  were  bestowed  upon  us  to 

28 


326  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

the  best  of  the  ability  of  the  sickly  crew.  Restora 
tives  were  applied  by  Dr.  Kane  to  the  frozen.  These 
things  done,  we  were  put  to  bed,  to  sleep  away  the 
weariness  caused  by  almost  continual  exposure  dur 
ing  forty  hours ;  in  which  time  we  had  travelled 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  in  a  temperature  eighty 
degfees  below  freezing. 


There  remains  little  more  to  be  said.  The  Esqui 
mau  hunters  who  had  served  us  so  well  remained  at 
the  vessel  during  the  following  day ;  and  having 
received  many  useful  presents,  and  their  dogs  and 
sledges  having  been  returned  to  them,  they  left  us 
well  pleased. 

Petersen  and  Bonsall  had,  for  the  most  part,  been 
confined  to  their  beds  since  their  arrival  at  the  brig. 
They  had  been  thoroughly  broken  down  by  their 
journey,  and  they  had  just  begun  to  move  about 
when  we  surprised  them  by  our  sudden  appearance. 
It  was  their  intention  to  go  back  to  Booth  Bay 
when  their  strength  should  have  been  recovered,  and 
the  moon  should  have  come  to  light  them  on  the 
way.  Their  experience  had  much  resembled  ours. 
After  leaving  us  at  the  hut  they  had  gone  directly  to 
Northumberland  Island,  where,  as  has  been  already 
stated,  they  were  joined  by  Amalatok.  Their  party 
was  afterward  increased  by  the  addition  of  several 
sledges ;  and,  except  that  they  had  passed  over,  in- 


SCURVY.  327 

stead  of  around  Cape  Alexander,  their  route  had 
been  the  same  as  our  own.  They  had  reached  the 
brig  on  the  7th  of  December.  We  had  been  de 
tained  one  day  longer,  in  consequence  of  our  going 
to  Netlik,  so  that  we  did  not  come  on  board  until 
three  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  12th. 

Dr.  Kane  gave  his  bunk  for  my  use,  and  under  his 
skilful  care,  myself  and  my  companions  were  soon 
recovered  from  our  fatigue ;  and  in  three  days  six 
of  our  number  were  on  active  duty.  Stephenson 
was  suffering  from  a  return  of  his  old  complaint,  and 
I  was  kept  prostrated  by  the  effects  of  my  accident 
at  Cape  Alexander.  Otherwise  we  were  in  excel 
lent  health.  In  this  respect,  those  who  had  remained 
at  the  brig  were  less  fortunate.  As  had  been  feared 
they  were  attacked  with  scurvy.  Every  one  of  them 
was  more  or  less  affected  by  it ;  and  one  half  of  the 
number  were  actually  down.  Our  arrival  was  most 
opportune,  as  we  were  enabled  to  relieve  the  sick 
of  many  onerous  duties,  for  which  they  were  physi 
cally  unfit. 

Although  deeply  regretting  our  want  of  success 
in  the  main  object  of  our  undertaking,  we  could  not 
but  congratulate  ourselves,  that  at  least  one  good 
had  been  effected;  for,  had  eighteen  persons  instead 
of  ten  been  crowded  into  the  narrow  cabin  of  the 
Advance,  which  had  been  much  contracted  in  order 
to  save  fuel,  and  had  they  been  otherwise  subjected 
to  the  same  causes  of  disease,  we  could  not  doubt 
what  would  soon  have  been  the  condition  of  the  en 
tire  company.  One  of  the  motives  of  our  temporary 
separation  was  in  this  manner  proved  by  actual  trial. 
In  fact,  within  a  few  weeks  the  returned  party  were, 


328  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

one  by  one,  stricken  down  by  scurvy,  and  at  length 
there  were  left  only  the  commander  and  Mr.  Bonsall 
who  could  regularly  attend  to  the  performance  of 
the  ship's  duties. 

The  winter  passed  slowly  away.  Then  spring  re 
turned,  with  its  daylight,  sunshine,  and  increased 
warmth ;  fresh  food  was  obtained,  chiefly  from  the 
natives  ;  and  with  these  aids  the  people  rallied. 
Gradually  the  gloom  which  had  settled  over  us  was 
dispelled.  The  carpenter  hobbled  out  to  repair  the 
boats;  and  in  proportion  as  our  strength  increased, 
preparations  were  carried  on  for  the  final  abandon 
ment  of  the  vessel.15 

Three  boats  were  at  length  mounted  upon  runners, 
for  transportation  over  the  ice  to  open  water;  and 
on  the  17th  of  May  the  whole  company  turned  their 
faces,  southward.  Four  of  the  number  being  unable 
to  walk-  were  sent  forward  in  advance  to  the  hut  at 
Anoatok,  upon  the  dog-sledge,  which  during  the 
two  weeks  previous  had  been  constantly  employed 
in  transporting  cargo  to  the  same  place.  There  were 
other  members  of  the  party  who  were  able  to  per 
form  only  a  moderate  share  of  duty,  and  these  ac 
companied  the  boat-sledges  in  their  slow  march. 

We  were  thirty-one  days  in  reaching  the  open 
water  at  Cape  Alexander,  about  eighty  miles  distant 
from  the  brig.  The  trials  of  this  tedious  journey  are 
too  well  known  to  need  repetition.  Had  we  been  in 
vigorous  health  it  could  have  been  performed  with 
out  difficulty,  and  probably  in  less  than  one  third 
of  the  time  actually  consumed.  The  Esquimaux 
brought  fresh  food  to  us,  and  notwithstanding  the 
severe  labor  we  grew  stronger  day  by  day.  Our 


DEATH  OF   OHLSEN.  329 

greatest  trial  was  the  loss  of  our  brave  carpenter, 
Ohlsen,  who  fell  a  victim  to  his  zeal.  He  was  per 
haps  the  healthiest  man  in  the  party  when  we  left 
the  brig ;  but  he  injured  himself  internally  by  over- 
exertion,  and  died  on  the  third  day  afterwards.  His 
grave  is  marked  by  a  pyramid  of  stones  on  the  east 
ern  side  of  Littleton  Island. 

The  boats  were  launched  on  the  19th  of  June,  and 
we  then  set  sail  for  Upernavik.  Our  progress  down 
the  coast  was  slow,  and  was  almost  continually  em 
barrassed  by  the  ice,  which  in  many  places  had  not 
yet  broken  up.  Visiting  on  our  way  our  hut  at  Booth 
Bay,  it  was  found  to  have  been  torn  to  pieces  by  the 
Esquimaux ;  the  wood  had  been  carried  away,  and 
the  Ironsides  had  been  wantonly  destroyed. 

Upernavik  was  reached  on  the  6th  of  August, 
after  an  exposure  of  eighty-one  days.  There  we 
remained  until  the  6th  of  September,  having  in  the 
mean  time  shared  the  simple  though  kindly  hospi 
tality  of  Governor  Flaischer,  the  Missionary  Kraigh, 
and  the  people  of  the  settlement  generally.  We 
were  there  met  by  the  Danish  brig  Marianne,  which 
plies  annually  between  this  port  and  Copenhagen; 
and  we  were  received  with  great  kindness  by  her 
warm-hearted  commander,  Mr.  Ammondson.  In 
this  brig  we  took  passage  for  Denmark.  Halting 
at  Godhavri,  the  inspectorate  of  North  Greenland, 
we  were  welcomed  by  Mr.  Olrik,  and  were  there 
overtaken  by  the  ships,  which  under  command  of 
Captain  Hartstene  had  been  sent  to  our  assistance 
by  the  government  of  the  United  States.  Captain 
Hartstene  had  made  a  bold  and  vigorous  search  for 
us,  reaching  within  fifty  miles  of  the  winter-quarters 

28* 


330  AN  ARCTIC   BOAT  JOURNEY. 

of  the  Advance ;  and  had  abandoned  the  ground 
only  when  he  learned  from  the  Esquimaux  that  we 
had  gone  southward. 

From  the  accomplished  officers  of  this  relief  ex 
pedition  we  received  many  attentions,  which  were 
much  needed  and  were  gracefully  bestowed.  Trans 
ferring  our  quarters  from  the  Danish  brig  to  the 
American  vessels,  we  returned  in  these  to  the  United 
States,  and  landed  in  New  York  October  12th,  1355, 
after  an  absence  of  two  years  four  months  and  thir 
teen  days. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

CONCLUDING   REMARKS. 

AJFTER  such  a  series  of  uncomfortable  adventures 
as  have  now  been  presented  to  my  readers,  I  cannot 
take  leave  of  them  without  a  word  of  caution  and 
of  explanation. 

The  reports  which  have  been  published  of  arctic 
exploration,  have  naturally  impressed  the  minds  of 
most  persons  with  images  of  a  character  to  shock 
the  sensibilities  of  the  humane,  and  to  render  the 
country  about  the  North  Pole  as  terrible  as  any  of 
the  fabled  regions  which  have  furnished  themes  to 
the  pens  of  poets  and  prose  romancers  of  preceding 
ages.  Vast  seas  covered  with  masses  of  ice  rushing 
to  and  fro,  threatening  to  crush  the  most  skilful  nav 
igator —  towering  bergs  ready  to  overwhelm  him 
—  dangerous  land  journeys  —  cold,  piercing  to  the 
very  sources  of  life  —  savage  beasts,  and  scarcely 
less  savage  men  —  isolation,  disease,  famine,  and 
slow  death  —  such  are  the  elements  of  the  popular 
conception  of  what  is  inevitably  to  be  encountered 
by  the  explorer.  Perhaps  to  many  the  chief  picture 
suggested  by  the  mention  of  arctic  expeditions,  is, 
at  best,  equal  in  repulsiveness  to  that  described  by 
Bulwer :  — 


#32  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

Huddled  on  deck,  one  half  that  hardy  crew 
Lie  shrunk  and  withered  in  the  biting  sky, 

With  filmy  stare  and  lips  of  livid  hue, 
And  sapless  limbs  that  stiffen  as  they  lie; 

While  the  dire  pest-scourge  of  the  frozen  zone 

Rots  through  the  vein  and  gnaws  the  knotted  bone.* 

I  say  that  such  an  impression  is  natural,  partly 
because  the  expeditions  which  have  particularly  at 
tracted  the  general  notice  of  the  civilized  world,  have 
been  the  disastrous  ones ;  and  partly  because  the 
adventures  recorded  have  been  so  different  in  kind 
from  those  to  which  our  literature  has  accustomed 
us ;  and  the  scenes  have  contrasted  in  so  marked  a 
manner  with  those  of  our  climate  and  habitual  mode 
of  life,  that  we  are  ready  for  the  wildest  fancies  and 
the  most  repulsive  conclusions.  Although  the  his 
tory  of  every  age  abounds  with  tales  of  marvellous 
enterprise,  of  personal  .exposure,  of  hair-breadth 
escapes,  and  of  death  in  a  variety  of  forms,  encoun 
tered  in  pursuit  of  wealth,  of  fame,  or  of  more  Chris 
tian  objects,  yet  none  of  these — not  even  the  horrors 
of  Central  Africa  as  narrated  by  European  travellers, 
appear  to  excite  the  dread  which  is  produced  by  the 
contemplation  of  the  polar  circle. 

In  such  circumstances  I  may  be  regarded  not  only 
as  rash,  in  proposing  for  the  favorable  consideration 
of  my  countrymen  another  essay  into  a  part  of  the 
earth  so  under  ban  by  reason  of  its  assumed  inevit 
able  perils,  but  also  as  blind  to  the  means  of  success, 
when  I  send  out  through  the  press,  for  the  criticism 
of  the  world,  a  volume  which  is  almost  wholly  com 
posed  of  chapters  the  most  discouraging.  Yet  I 
trust  it  will  be  in  the  end  conceded,  on  the  one 

*  King  Arthur,  B<?ok  ix.  c.  xiii. 


CONCLUDING  REMARKS.  333 

hand,  that  the  proposed  renewal  of  American  arctic 
exploration  is  neither  rashly  nor  hastily  suggested; 
and  on  the  other,  that  the  character  of  the  boat 
journey  of  1854  is  exceptional ;  and  that  it  gives 
to  us  important  means  by  which  to  discriminate 
the  accidental  causes  of  disaster,  and  to  determine 
the  real  permanent  elements  of  a  rational  judg 
ment  upon  the  prudential  relations  of  the  whole 
subject. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  the  major  part  of  the 
voyages  into  the  arctic  waters,  and  of  the  journeys 
over  arctic  lands,  have  not  even  as  near  a  connection 
with  the  proposal  now  before  the  American  public, 
as  most  of  the  efforts  made  during  many  years  to 
penetrate  the  Rocky  Mountains,  have  with  the  last 
engineer's  report  upon  the  route  of  the  Pacific  rail 
road.  Tens  of  thousands  of  men,  women,  and 
children,  with  their  household  goods,  and  their  herds, 
have  travelled  safely  overland  from  the  Atlantic 
border  to  the  remote  region  where  once  the  Oregon, 
"  heard  no  sound,  save  his  own  dashings  "  —  and  to 
the  golden  shores  of  the  Pacific,  not  long  since  un 
inhabited  by  white  men.  They  have  gone  through 
passes  which  twenty-five  years  ago  were  either  un 
known,  or  had  been  rendered  familiar  to  us  only  by 
often  perused  narratives  of  appalling  dangers  en 
countered  by  a  few  half-savage  frontier-men.  The 
first  readers  of  "  Astoria,"  —  even  those  of  the  later 
real  romances  of  Fremont,  —  what  could  they  depict 
to  themselves  which  would  be  accepted  now  as  a  rea 
sonable  guide  to  our  judgment  upon  the  practicabil 
ity  of  a  journey  between  the  eastern  and  the  western 
limits  of  our  national  territory?  The  history  of  our 


334  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

continent  everywhere  affords  similar  illustrations. 
What  European  who  heard  the  first  recital  of  the 
efforts  of  Balboa  and  of  Pizarro,  could  have  even  im 
agined  the  present  state  of  travel  and  trade  across 
the  Isthmus  of  Darien  ?  What  would  Lewis  and 
Clarke  say  of  possibilities,  could  they  witness  the 
population  and  institutions  of  the  Republic  extend 
ing  up  the  Missouri  and  its  branches  towards  their 
very  head-springs  ?  The  truth  is,  that,  as  in  all  of 
these  instances,  so  in  arctic  exploration,  the  way  has 
been  gradually  prepared  for  an  ultimate  success  which 
is  certain.  During  more  than  two  centuries  the  north 
circumpolar  region  has  been  examined  successively 
upon  every  side.  England,  Holland,  France,  Spain, 
Portugal,  Denmark,  Russia,  and  the  United  States 
of  America,  have  been  competing  for  the  advan 
tages  and  the  glory  of  polar  enterprise ;  and  now,  as 
the  fruit  of  their  expenditure  of  men,  of  money,  and 
of  zeal,  we  have  a  map  and  a  history  which  enable 
us  to  speak  with  the  positiveness  of  actual  knowl 
edge  in  relation  to  fresh  plans  of  exploration.  The 
adventures  which  have  given  reputation  to  Cabot, 
and  Baffin,  and  Hudson,  and  Barentz,  and  Behring, 
and  to  many  others  whose  names  are  less  familiar 
in  this  country,  were  necessary  antecedents  to  later 
efforts ;  and  these,  in  turn,  are  to  contribute  to  the 
more  fortunate,  because  still  later  explorer. 

It  must  also  be  remembered  that,  of  the  long  list 
of  arctic  voyages,  only  a  small  proportion  were 
directed  towards  the  Pole  ;  the  others  having  been 
made  in  search  of  a  northwestern,  or  northeastern 
passage  to  India,  with  the  exception  of  such  as 
were  undertaken  for  the  relief  of  Sir  John  Frank- 


CONCLUDING  REMARKS.  335 

lin's  party :  *  and  that  even  those  navigators  who  en 
deavored  to  make  a  due  north  passage  were  aiming 
rather  at  the  remote  object  of  oriental  communica 
tion,  than  at  the  nearer  one  of  circumpolar  discovery 
Besides,  most  of  the  last-mentioned  class  of  adven 
turers  were  obliged  to  adopt  their  measures  with 
scanty  information  of  the  physical  condition  and 
changes  of  the  northern  seas  ;  and  of  course  without 
that  birdseye  view  of  the  entire  arctic  ice-belt  up  to 
a  mean  latitude  of  78°,  which  is  now  within  the 
reach  of  every  student  of  physical  geography. 

Dr.  Kane,  whose  first  voyage  as  surgeon  of  the 
expedition  under  Lieut.  De  Haven,  in  1850,  had 
given  to  him  some  important  information  upon  the 
currents  and  ice-movements  of  Baffin  Bay,  carefully 
collated  such  accounts  as  had  been  published  respect 
ing  the  various  efforts  to  penetrate  the  ice-barrier ; 
and  he  thus  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  the 
true  route  lay  up  the  theretofore  unexplored  Smith 
Strait,  which  opens  at  the  head  of  the  bay.  The 
Russian  navigator  and  veteran  arctic  explorer,  Baron 
Von  "Wrangel,  had  reached  the  same  conclusion, 
which  he  announced  to  the  Royal  Geographical  So 
ciety  of  London  in  1847.  The  English  expeditions 
up  Baffin  Bay  had  turned  westward  into  Lancaster 
and  Jones  Sounds;  only  one  of  them,  under  Capt. 
Inglefield,  having  entered  the  mouth  of  Smith  Strait 
as  far  as  latitude  78°.  30'.  To  America  is  due  the 

*  So  closely  have  recent  arctic  expeditions  been  associated  with  the 
idea  of  a  rescue  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  or  of  the  survivors  of  his  company, 
that  for  some  of  my  readers,  it  may  not  be  superfluous  to  say  here,  that 
my  expedition  has  no  reference  whatever  to  the  fortunes  of  that  gallant 
captain  and  his  crew.  My  course  lies  in  a  different  direction  from  theirs, 
as  the  map  will  show. 


336  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

credit  of  having  reduced  the  evidence  to  practical 
results.  The  second  Grinnell  expedition,  begun  in 
1853,  added  new  proofs  to  those  previously  known 
in  favor  of  the  route  by  Smith  Strait;  and  at  the 
present  time  there  is  sufficient  warrant  for  asserting 
that  it  is  by  this  channel  that  the  Pole  is  to  be 
reached. 

I  ask  now  that  my  readers  shall  dismiss  all 
thought  of  the  long  catalogue  of  ineffective  voy 
ages  ;  that  they  shall  as  fully  divest  themselves 
of  their  prepossessions  against  arctic  adventure  as 
beset  with  perils,  and  as  unproductive  of  benefit 
to  mankind ;  especiaUy  that  they  shall  guard  their 
feelings  against  the  influence  of  the  recent  events 
which  have  aroused  the  sympathies  of  the  world 
in  relation  to  Sir  John  Franklin ;  and  that  they 
shall  give  an  impartial  attention  to  the  few,  well- 
founded,  practical  considerations  which  are  about 
to  be  presented  to  them. 

I  shall  not  begin  at  Philadelphia,  nor  at  New 
York,  nor  at  Boston,  at  all  of  which  places  the 
associations  are  unfavorable  to  a  suitable  estimate 
of  the  topics  which  ought  to  determine  the  question 
before  us  ;  and  at  all  of  which  the  mere  idea  of  dis 
tance  tends  to  augment  the  imaginary  difficulties  of 
the  case ;  but  I  tshall  at  the  outset  suppose  that  we 
are  at  Upernavik,  a  Danish  settlement  on  the  west 
ern  coast  of  Greenland,  where  there  is  a  healthy 
population,  with  a  church,  and  a  school,  and  a 
governor  —  a  settlement  between  which  and  the 
mother-country  a  vessel  plies  annually.*  Past  this 

*  A  reference  to  the  "  Chart  of  Baffin  Bay,"  which,  accompanies  this 
volume,  will  render  the  text  clear  to  the  reader.  From  Upernavik,  at  *he 


CONCLUDING  REMARKS.  337 

place,  at  the  opening  of  every  summer,  go  the  WHAL 
ERS,  who  fish  along  the  west  shore  of  Baffin  Bay. 
"We  shall  follow  their  vessels  along  the  eastern  shore 
northward,  until  we  reach  the  latitude  at  which  they 
usually  turn  westward  across  the  head  of  the  bay  — 
the  route  pursued  by  all  of  the  English  expeditions, 
with  perhaps  a  single  exception.  We  find  that  oc 
casionally  some  of  the  whale-ships  cross  still  lorther 
north,  namely,  at  latitude  77°.  Well,  here  we  are  in 
the  good  company  of  a  hearty  set  of  navigators, 
who  think  it  not  too  great  a  hardship  to  come  hither 
every  year  to  catch  whales.  We  are  within  s4ght  of 
the  ordinary  routine  of  nautical  life  ;  with  the  addi 
tion  of  a  few  peculiarities  which  every  seaman  with 
in  hail  would  .think  it  a  lubberly  weakness  to  use  as 
occasions  for  pity,  or  as  motives  for  shrinking,  or  as 
means  to  a  great  reputation.  Thus  far,  then,  we  are 
within  the  limits  of  what  is  both  feasible  and  pru 
dent.  What  is  the  distance  hence  in  a  straight  line 
to  the  latitude  of  Dr.  Kane's  winter-quarters  in 
1853-54—55  ?  Not  more  than  from  one  hundred 
and  twenty  to  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  a 
large  part  of  which  distance  is  across  what  is  called 

southeast  corner,  to  Rensselaer  Harbor,  near  the  top  of  the  chart,  will  be 
found  all  the  principal  places  and  routes. . 

At  the  right  hand  of  the  "  Chart  of  the  Arctic  Regions  "  is  a  small  map 
showing  the  North  Water,  Smith  Strait,  and  Kennedy  Channel  as  far  as 
known.  On  this  are  marked  Rensselaer  Harbor;  and,  northward  from  it 
on  the  western  side  of  the  Channel,  under  Cape  Frazer,  the  author's  pro 
posed  winter-quarters. 16 

The  intended  course  of  the  new  expedition  is  indicated  by  a  heavy  dot 
ted  line  up  Baffin  Bay  and  Kennedy  Channel  toward  the  Pole. 

The  northern  and  southern  limits  of  the  ice-belt,  as  reported  by  the  ex 
plorers  who  have  approached  it  on  all  sides,  have  been  laid  down  in  con 
formity  with  their  accounts.  Between  the  northern  limit  of  this  belt  and 
the  Pole  there  is  satisfactory  reason  for  believing  that  the  temperature 
rises,  as  we  go  northward;  and  that  the  sea  is  never  completely  closed. 
29 


338  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

"The  North  Water,"  because  it  is  mainly  free  from 
ice  during  most  of  the  year. 

So  "beset"  have  been  the  conceptions  of  most 
of  my  acquaintances,  by  the  influences  of  habitual 
association,  that  I  am  prepared  for  the  surprise 
which  this  simple  statement  will  produce  on  the 
part  of  my  present  readers  ;  yet  I  am  giving  ex 
pression  only  to  what  will  be  readily  sustained  by 
every  navigator  of  the  head  of  Baffin  Bay.  "  How 
then  are  we  to  account  for  the  failure  of  Dr.  Kane 
to  reach  the  North  Pole  —  how  account  for  the  gen 
eral  impression  that  efforts  in  this  direction  are  un 
promising  and  rash  ? "  The  only  answer  to  such 
questions  is  to  be  found  in  the  effect  of  narratives 
of  ill-directed  previous  effort,  and  in  the  peculiar 
causes  which  thwarted  the  purposes  of  the  second 
Grinnell  expedition.  These  causes,  which  are  alto 
gether  independent  of  previous  experience,  and  of 
the  skill  of  the  commander,  shall  be  plainly  stated. 

Smith  Strait,  which  discharges  its  waters  from  the 
direction  of  the  Pole,  enters  Baffin  Bay  southwest 
erly  ;  but  its  continuation  northward  of  Rensselaer 
Harbor,  Kennedy  Channel,  has  a  southerly  flow.* 
Dr.  Kane,  whose  movements,  having  no  precedent, 
were  experimental,  entered  upon  the  eastern  or 
Greenland  side ;  he  was  thus  exposed  to  the  south 
erly  drift  of  ice,  by  which  he  was  speedily  blocked 
in.  The  pressure  of  the  current  raised  the  ice  north 
ward  of  his  harbor  into  hummocks,  which  rendered 
every  attempt  at  exploration  so  fatiguing  both  to 
men  and  dogs,  as  to  speedily  defeat  the  most  strenu- 

*  A  branch  of  the  great  Polar  Current  which  sets  south  on  the  east  side 
of  Greenland. 


CONCLUDING   REMAKES.  339 

ous  efforts  to  advance  up  the  channel.  The  trip  to 
the  west  side  of  the  channel  upon  which  I  was 
ordered,  and  which  has  been  mentioned  in  the  intro 
ductory  chapter,  enabled  me  to  Observe  the  circum 
stances  to  which  the  company  of  the  Advance  owed 
their  detention ;  and  also  to  verify  my  present  con 
viction,  that  on  that  side  a  good  harbor  exists  for  a 
vessel,  from  which  parties  can  proceed  successfully 
towards  the  Pole.  The  projection  of  land  now 
known  as  Cape  Frazer  affords  an  ample  bulwark 
against  the  southern  drift  of  ice  ;  and  thence  the 
travel  of  dog-sledges  is  free  from  the  obstructions 
which  rendered  abortive  the  most  resolute  attempts 
of  Dr.  Kane  and  his  officers  and  men  who  strove  to 
find  a  way  towards  the  object  of  the  expedition. 

It  is  known  to  the  readers  of  Dr.  Kane's  narrative 
that  he  ceased  the  prosecution  of  his  purpose  only 
when  the  failure  of  suitable  food  and  fuel  had 
rendered  his  crew  incapable  of  further  effort.  His 
departure  from  New  York  was  delayed  by  his  sick 
ness  so  long,  that,  upon  reaching  the  shores  of  Green 
land,  he  was  unable  to  take  the  time  necessary  for 
provisioning  his  vessel  with  fresh  supplies  of  meat 
from  the  birds  which  frequent  the  neighboring  isl 
ands,  and  with  the  eggs  which  might  otherwise 
have  been  procured  in  large  quantities.  Yet,  after 
exertions  which  would  suffice  to  acquit  him  towards 
the  chief  promoters  of  his  enterprise,  and  towards 
the  world,  he  succeeded  in  the  month  of  June,  1854, 
in  ascertaining  the  existence  of  open  water,  begin 
ning  northward  of  the  Smith  Strait  ice-belt,  in  lati 
tude  80°  20',  and  continuing  thence  in  the  direction 
of  the  Pole,  nearly  one  and  a  half  degrees,  to  the 


340  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

horizon  of  actual  vision  from  the  last  point  of  ob 
servation. 

Let  us  suppose  now  that  we  remove  from  the 
question  those  particulars  of  difficulty,  which  the 
experience  of  the  second  Grinnell  expedition  has 
proved  to  be  easily  avoidable. 

First,  we  shall  have  no  SCURVY.  For  support  of 
this  assertion  I  shall  quote  from  a  paper  read  by  me 
before  the  "  American  Association  for  the  Advance 
ment  of  Science,"  at  its  Baltimore  session  in  May, 
1858. 

"  The  scurvy,  hitherto  often  a  great  scourge  to  the 
crews  of  vessels  wintering  in  the  arctic  regions,  can, 
with  proper  precaution,  be  resisted,  and  in  this  opin 
ion  I  am  sustained  by  the  united  testimony  of  the 
surgeons  of  Her  Majesty's  Arctic  Squadron.  The 
disease  has  been  of  very  rare  occurrence  of  late 
years,  and  wherever  it  has  appeared,  it  has  been 
owing  to  accidental  causes,  but  chiefly  from  the 
long  continued  use  of  salt-meat  diet,  —  either  in 
consequence  of  the  parties  never  having  been  pro 
vided  with  any  other  standard  supplies  of  food,  or  of 
their  having  so  long  remained  in  the  field  as  to  have 
consumed  their  fresh  stores.  Indeed,  I  am  convinced 
that  the  climate  is  one  of  unusual  healthfulness. 
The  suffering  from  the  disease  among  Dr.  Kane's 
crew  was  mainly  owing  to  the  above-mentioned 
cause.  He  started  too  early  to  profit  fully  by  the 
discoveries  which  have  been  made  in  the  art  of  pre 
serving,  fresh,  meats  and  vegetables,  and  with  the 
exception  of  a  limited  quantity  of  pemmican,  —  in 
tended  for  use  in  the  field,  —  he  had  to  depend  upon 
the  ordinary  navy  ration,  without  change  or  varia- 


CONCLUDING   REMARKS.  341 

tion.  Casual  supplies  of  fresh  food  were  obtained 
by  the  hunt  or  in  barter  with  the  natives,  and  when 
procured,  invariably  enabled  his  men  to  resist  the 
disease,  or,  if  developed,  it  acted  as  an  immediate 
and  specific  cure.  The  difficulty  experienced  in 
keeping  alive  his  dogs  was  chiefly  owing  to  the  ab 
sence  of  a  diet  suited  to  their  necessities.  The  salt 
of  the  meat  acted  injuriously  upon  them,  and  the 
insufficient  quantities  which  they  could  eat  did  not 
enable  them  successfully  to  resist  the  cold;  and  a 
strange  epilepto-tetanoidal  disease  was  in  conse 
quence  developed  among  them.  The  same  was 
observable  among  his  crew,  and  doubtless  for  the 
same  reason." 

I  shall  carry  at  the  outset  enough  pemmican,  pre 
served  vegetables,  fruits,  and  other  suitable  stores,  to 
prevent  the  evil  effects  of  salted  food  upon  both  men 
and  dogs ;  and  at  the  Danish  islands  and  settlements 
food  of  bird,  reindeer,  and  other  flesh  will  be  pro 
cured  in  sufficient  quantity  to  guard  the  consump 
tion  of  the  artificially  prepared  meats. 

A  remarkable  illustration  of  the  value  of  these 
supplies  is  to  be  found  in  the  experience  of  the  boat 
journey  of  1854.  The  party  which  I  accompanied, 
and  that  which  remained  at  the  brig,  were  in  the 
same  state  of  health  at  the  time  of. separating.  The 
latter  had  the  advantages  of  shelter  in  the  vessel,  — 
of  freedom  from  the  necessity  for  exertion  dispropor 
tionate  to  their  strength,  —  of  fuel,  and  abundance 
of  food.  The  former  were  exposed  to  the  severest 
hardships, — were  upon  the  lowest  allowance  of  food 
consistent  with  the  maintenance  of  life,  —  were  with 
out  suitable  shelter,  and  almost  without  fuel,  —  were 

29* 


342  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

compelled  to  undergo  the  greatest  labor;  and  yet, 
wholly  by  reason  of  their  having  obtained  fresh  ani 
mal  and  vegetable  food,  though  in  scanty  measure 
they  returned  free  from  scurvy  to  Rensselaer  Harbor, 
where  they  found  their  comrades  prostrated  by  that 
disease.  Within  a  few  weeks  after  their  return, 
every  man  was  stricken  down  by  the  same  cause. 
Secondly,  we  shall  not  be  embarrassed  by  the 
COLD.  It  has  been  shown  by  innumerable  examples, 
that  the  extreme  rigor  of  tiae  arctic  winter  can  be 
safely  encountered  by  white  men,  if  they  be  suffi 
ciently  fed,  and  if  they  live  according  to  the  customs 
of  the  climate.  It  is  not  however  during  the  winter 
that  attempts  are  generally  made  to  push  forward ; 
but  between  the  middle  of  March  and  the  middle  of 
July.  Dr.  Rae,  —  whose  remarkable  journey  overland 
to  latitude  69°  is  before  the  public,  and  who  was  the 
first  to  bring  to  us  tidings  of  the  relics  of  Sir  John 
Franklin's  party,  from  the  neighborhood  of  King 
William's  Land  and  Montreal  Island,  where  Cap 
tain  M'Clintock  has  recently  found  the  verification  of 
the  sad  story,  if  not  its  conclusion,  —  has  personally 
informed  me  that  during  the  months  of  April  and 
May,  in  so  high  a  latitude  as  from  66°  35'  (the  posi 
tion  of  his  winter  snow-hut  at  the  head  of  Repulse 
Bay)  to  69°,  the  whole  stock  of  extra  clothing  and 
bedding  for  his  entire  travelling  party  of  five  persons 
weighed  only  twenty-five  pounds.  In  Rensselaer 
Harbor,  except  in  the  months  from  December  to 
March,  almost  the  only  external  protection  used  by 
myself  and  companions  when  on  out-door  duty,  was 
a  pilot-cloth  coat;  and,  even  during  the  period  of 
maximum  depression,  we  frequently  exposed  our- 


CONCLUDING   REMARKS.  343 

selves  with  impunity  to  the  most  severe  tempera 
tures,  when  the  air  was  calm,  clothed  in  a  very  ordi 
nary  suit  of  thick  fabric,  without  any  furs  whatever. 
The  thermometer,  during  the  period  of  our  active 
service  in  the  field  in  the  performance  of  our  ex 
plorations,  was  often  as  high  as  35°  and  40°,  and 
on  one  occasion  it  reached  54°  above  zero.  During 
the  severer  portions  of  the  year  the  thermometer 
sometimes,  (though  rarely,)  sank  to  60°  below  zero; 
but  the  narrative  of  Dr.  Kane  proves  conclusively 
that  the  difficulties  of  arctic  adventure  do  not  result 
from  that  fact ;  and  the  boat  journey  of  which  the 
story  has  just  been  told,  bears  ample  testimony  of 
the  same  kind.*17 

I  speak  positively,  because  I  fear  no  contradiction 
when  I  say,  that  every  navigator  of  the  northern 
seas  knows  that  the  cold  alone  is  not  a  serious  im 
pediment  to  their  exploration,  provided  that  suita 
ble  food,  and  even  the  shelter  of  a  snow-hut,  be  se 
cured.!  Besides ;  aU  of  my  companions  can  testify 
that  the  wind  blowing  from  the  northward  frequent 
ly  brought  to  us  a  moderation  of  temperature ;  $  the 

*  See  Dr.  Kane's  narrative,  vol.  ii.  p.  78.  After  stating  that  the  tem 
perature  had  been  as  low  as  from  40°  to  56°  below  zero,  he  adds,  "  but  my 
experience  of  last  year  in  the  rescue-party,  where  we  travelled  eighty 
miles  in  sixty  odd  hours,  almost  without  a  halt,  yet  without  a  frost-bite, 
shows  that  such  temperatures  are  no  obstacle  to  travel,  provided  you 
have  the  necessary  practical  knowledge  of  the  equipment  and  conduct  of 
your  party.  I  firmly  believe  that  no  natural  cold  as  yet  known  can  arrest 
travel.  The  whole  story  of  the  winter  illustrates  it." 

+  It  is  desirable  to  avoid  inappropriate  contrasts  between  the  effect  of  a 
comfortable  parlor  in  latitude  40°,  with  a  glowing  anthi-acite  fire,  and  the 
lowest  degree  of  cold  among  the  Esquimaux.  It  must  not  be  forgotten 
that  a  range  from  20°  to  40°  below  zero,  occurs  in  portions  of  the  United 
States,  without  preventing  the  ordinary  avocations  of  the  inhabitants. 

$  In  confirmation  of  this  fact,  see  Professor  Bache's  letter  in  the  Ap 
pendix. 


344  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

wild-fowl,  which  draw  their  subsistence  from  the 
ocean,  flew  northward  to  find  open  water  near  which 
to  build  their  nests  ;  and  Morton  and  the  Esquimau 
lad  Hans,  killed,  northward  of  Rensselaer  Harbor, 
two  bears,  animals  which  cannot  subsist  near  an  ice 
bound  sea.  The  fresh  skins,  brought  to  the  ship, 
vouched  the  truth  of  the  report  of  the  killing.  A 
rapid  southward  current  brought  no  ice.  From 
about  latitude  80°  20'  there  was  an  unobstructed 
sea  toward  the  Pole.  The  water  was  in  one  locality 
36°  and  in  another  40°  above  zero.  Even  the  scien 
tific  theory  of  .the  relation  between  the  magnetic 
poles  and  the  poles  of  extreme  temperature,  confirm 
this  view  of  the  subject.  There  is  no  authenticated 
experience  to  the  contrary.  It  is  therefore  no  longer 
merely  conjectural  that  the  cold  will  be  found  to  di 
minish  as  we  proceed  northward  from  the  old  quar 
ters  of  the  Advance ;  and  even  if  it  were  otherwise, 
there  is  nothing  in  any  conceivable  state  of  the  facts 
to  deter  a  prudent  man  from  an  enterprise  of  the 
kind  in  question. 

Will  the  reader  endeavor  to  find  a  reason  to  prove 
that  enterprise  impracticable  or  rash  ?  Is  it  the 
NATURE  OF  THE  COUNTRY  ?  The  reader  is  now 
aware  that,  as  far  as  Cape  Roquette,  latitude  80°, 
(ninety-six  miles  northward  of  the  latitude  of  the , 
Advance's  quarters,)  the  western  coast  has  been  sur 
veyed  by  myself,  my  observations  extending  down 
the  coast  from  that  cape  nearly  to  the  mouth  of 
Smith  Strait ;  and  it  is  a  fact  that  all  of  the  indi 
cations  within  that  survey  were  such  as  to  promise 
a  safe  line  of  travel.*  Again ;  between  the  4th  of 

*  So  impressed  was  the  commander  with  the  value  of  these  indications, 


CONCLUDING  REMARKS.  345 

June  and  the  4th  of  July,  1854,  Morton,  accompa 
nied  by  Hans,  and  with  a  team  of  seven  dogs,  suc 
ceeded  in  travelling  up  the  eastern  coast  to  about 
latitude  81°,  and  in  returning  to  the  ship ;  and  their 
journey  was  at  an  unfavorable  period,  and  in  a  most 
inconvenient  state  of  the  ice.  On  the  other  hand,  it 
must  not  be  forgotten  that  for  the  main  effort  now 
proposed,  due  preparation  is  to  be  made.  The  har 
bor  proposed  for  the  vessel  is  under  Cape  Frazer,  on 
the  western  side  of  the  strait,  in  a  port  which  has 
been  examined  by  me,  and  from  which  she  will  be 
liberated  upon  the  breaking  up  and  southward  flow 
of  the  ice,  which  annually  recurs. 18 

"  Early  in  the  spring,  the  shores  of  Grinnell  Land 
will  be  lined  with  depots  of  provisions,  as  far  north 
as  latitude  82°,  where  a  final  cache  will  be  estab 
lished  for  the  use  of  the  polar  boat-party ;  these 
stores  to  be  carried  forward  by  the  dogs.  One  of 
these  animals  will  drag  upon  a  sledge  a  weight  of 
seventy  pounds  thirty-two  miles  per  day,  upon  an 
average  ration  of  thirteen  ounces  of  pemmican,  — 
equal  to  about  three  pounds  of  dried  meat ;  and 
two  teams  of  seven  each  could  readily  carry  forward 
ample  stores  for  a  full  boat's  crew  of  six  persons. 
This  crew  should  set  out  with  their  boat  from  the 
vessel  in  April.  Within  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
they  would  probably,  as  I  have  said,  meet  the  open 
water  by  the  middle  of  May  or  the  first  of  June. 

"  The  rough  ice  which  baffled  Dr.  Kane's  par 
ties,  as  above  observed,  can  be  in  a  great  measure 

that  he  said,  "  Had  I  succeeded  in  pushing  my  party  across  tlia  bay,  our 
success  would  have  been  unequalled ;  it  was  the  true  plan,  the  best  con 
ceived,  and  in  fact  the  only  one  by  which,  after  the  death  of  my  dogs,  T 
could  hope  to  carry  on  the  search."  —  Vol.  If.  p.  78. 


346  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

avoided  by  avoiding  the  crossing  of  Smith  Strait  • 
and  Kennedy  Channel  having  a  due  north  trend,  and 
presenting  no  salient  capes  like  the  remarkable  pro 
jection  of  Western  Greenland,  will,  I  have  no 
doubt,  be  found  mostly  smooth.  Such  a  track  pre 
sents  great  facilities  for  travel.  One  man  will  read 
ily  walk  sixteen  miles  per  day,  dragging  from  one 
hundred  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  pounds  in 
weight.  Dr.  Rae  conducted  a  party  six  hundred 
miles  in  twenty-two  days,  each  of  his  men  trailing 
after  him,  upon  an  Iroquois  sledge,  one  hundred  and 
ten  pounds.  They  carried  a  single  blanket  and 
change  of  under-clothing  per  man,  but  no  tent, 
using  for  periodic  rest  the  snow-hut  of  the  Esqui 
maux.  These  huts  are  readily  constructed,  and 
upon  them  I  shall  place  my  sole  reliance  while  upon 
the  ice.  Indeed,  the  amount  of  labor  which  can  be 
performed  by  a  skilful  use  of  very  simple  means  is 
truly  astonishing ;  and  in  spite  of  the  cold  and  pov 
erty  of  the  ice-deserts,  Kennedy,  M'Clintock,  Bellot, 
Sutherland,  Pirn,  Mecham,  Osborne,  Richards,*  and 

*  Commander  M'Clintock,  during  his  foot-journey  from  Dealy  Island 
(the  winter-quarters  of  Captain  Kellet  in  the  Resolute)  to  the  northwest 
coast  of  Prince  Patrick  Island,  was  absent  from  the  ship  105  days,  and 
travelled  1408  miles,  or,  deducting  for  various  detentions,  about  fourteen 
miles  per  day.  During  the  early  part  of  the  journey  (April  16th)  the 
temperature  was  as  low  as  24°  below  zero.  The  weight  upon  the  sledge, 
which  was  dragged  by  his  men,  for  a  portion  of  the  time  equalled  one  ton, 
or  280  pounds  per  man.  Lieut.  Mecham,  from  the  same  ship,  was  absent 
94  days,  and  travelled  1163  miles.  This  same  energetic  officer  subse 
quently  performed  a  foot-journey  of  1336  miles  in  70  days,  or  6l£  days  of 
actual  travel,  averaging  over  twenty-one  miles  per  day;  thus  equalling 
the  most  successful  dog-sledge  journey  of  Baron  Wrangel,  who,  in  1823, 
travelled  over  the  frozen  sea  from  Nishne  Kolymsk  to  Koliutschin  Island 
and  back,  a  distance  of  2300  wersts  (1537  miles),  in  78  days.  Wrangel 
was,  however,  subjected  to  many  perplexing  delays,  and  sometimes  made 
more  than  sixty  miles  per  day.  The  collective  foot-journeys  of  the  officers 


CONCLUDING  REMARKS.  347 

many  others  of  the  numerous  corps  of  their  gallant 
co-laborers,  have  performed  journeys  which  for  ex 
tent  would  reflect  honorably  upon  them  as  foot  trav 
ellers  in  a  more  favored  region."  * 

Both  boats  an/1  sledges  will  be  taken  in  accord 
ance  with  the  results  of  former  trials.  If  the  entire 
space  to  the  Pole  should  be  covered  with  fast  ice, 
some  of  the  most  experienced  explorers  are  of  opin 
ion  that  the  Pole  can  be  reached  on  sledges  without 
difficulty.  Captain  Parry's  attempt  in  this  mode 
was  defeated  only  by  his  having  selected  a  route 
which  exposed  him  to  the  full  force  of  the  great 
southern  ice-drift.f  Every  undertaking  of  previous 
navigators  has  served  to  cut  off  sources  of  error  and 
disappointment ;  and  now  that  for  the  first  time  in 
the  history  of  arctic  exploration,  a  way  is  opened  to 
us,  not  only  free  from  the  obstacles  which  have  pre 
vented  earlier  success,  but  offering  inducements  such 
as  have  been  presented  in  connection  with  no  other 
route,  it  is  surely  not  the  time  to  pronounce  against 
the  whole  design  as  impracticable. 

The  distance,  in  a  direct  line  from  my  proposed 
startirfg-point  at  Cape  Frazer,  to  the  North  Pole,  is 

and  men  of  Capt.  Kellet's  division  of  the  British  Arctic  Squadron  in  the 
spring  of  1853  alone,  amount  to  7,276  miles. 

*  From  the  paper  read  before  the  American  Association,  May,  1858, 
previously  referred  to. 

t  Dr.  Rae  is  of  opinion  that  such  a  journey  is  clearly  feasible  over 
ice.  He  has  so  informed  me. 

It  is  important  to  bear  in  mind  that  the  attempt  to  reach  the  Pole  is  not 
wholty  dependent  upon  the  circumpokr  waters  being  free  from  ice.  How 
ever  the  question  of  sfti  open  sea  may  be  determined,  there  remains  ample 
reason  for  regarding  my  attempt  as  feasible.  Even  the  single  question 
whether  the  sea  is  open  or  not,  is  sufficient  to  engage  the  profound  interest 
of  geographers.  Prof.  A.  Dallas  Bache  calls  it  the  "  great  geographical 
question  of  the  clay."  (See  his  letter  in  the  Appendix.) 


348  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOUENEY. 

only  about  seven  hundred  miles,  —  scarcely  greater 
than  that  travelled  by  myself  and  companions,  going 
and  returning,  in  1854.  Dr.  Kane  and  his  entire 
brig's  company,  in  the  spring  and  summer  of  1855, 
in  two  crazy  boats,  and  beset  wijbh  extraordinary 
perils,  reached  Upernavik  from  Rensselaer  Harbor, 
making,  with  the  necessary  detours,  a  third  more 
miles  than  lie  between  my  starting-place  and  the 
Pole.  The  reader  of  his  narrative,  and  of  that  con 
tained  in  this  volume,  will  have  seen  that  both  of 
these  journeys  were  accomplished  by  broken-down 
men,  in  the  midst  of  circumstances  the  most  dis 
couraging.  Of  my  own,  it  will  be  remembered  that 
more  than  three  hundred  miles,  or  nearly  one  half 
the  polar  distance,  were  overcome  in  the  arctic  win 
ter  night,  with  a  temperature  as  low  as  fifty  degrees 
below  zero ;  and  that  no  serious  harm  occurred  to 
any  member  of  the  party.  Let  a  comparison  be 
made  of  all  the  peculiarities  of  the  cases :  —  on  the 
one  side  abundant  food,  clothing,  shelter,  relief  of 
dogs,  choice  of  season  and  state  of  the  ice,  a  full 
force  of  men  in  healthy  condition,  a  ship  snugly 
harbored  for  a  winter  retreat;  on  the  other,  all  of 
the  elements  of  feebleness,  and  the  worst  phases  of 
physical  embarrassment ;  and  it  must  be  a  timorous 
spirit  which  can  still  confound  the  arguments  so  as 
to  make  the  cases  parallel.  So  long  ago  as  1616, 
when  scarcely  anything  was  known  of  the  northern 
seas,  Baffin  and  Bylot  sailed,  with  a  little  vessel  of 
only  fifty-five  tons,  to  within  seventy  miles  of  the 
latitude  of  Rensselaer  Harbor.  After  all  that  has 
been  discovered,  shall  it  be  said  that  an  Ameri 
can,  in  1860,  after  an  experimental  visit  to  the 


CONCLUDING  REMARKS.  -  349 

very  region  of  his  proposed  operations,  cannot 
make  his  way  over  seven  hundred  miles,  with  the 
outfit  and  other  advantages  which  have  been  de 
scribed  ? 

Is  the  reader  staggered  merely  by  the  naked 
fact  that  DR.  KANE,  AFTER  ATTAINING  TO  KENNEDY 
CHANNEL,  FOUND  HIMSELF  COMPELLED  TO  RETURN 
TO  THE  UNITED  STATES  WITHOUT  ACCOMPLISHING 
MORE  NORTHERLY  DISCOVERY  ?  The  narrative  of  that 
commander  contains  a  statement  of  the  causes  of 
his  disappointment,  not  one  of  which  can  be  applied 
to  a  new  expedition  in  the  same  direction.  If  he 
could  have  known,  before  sailing  from  New  York, 
what  we  have  learned  only  through  his  adventure ; 
or  if,  when  the  same  facts  came  to  his  knowledge, 
he  could  have  been  supplied  with  fresh  food  and 
fuel,  and  thus  have  been  enabled  to  pass  another 
season  in  the  region,  he  would  doubtless  have  left 
nothing  to  be  .accomplished  by  a  successor  between 
Smith  Strait  and  the  Pole. 

It  is  my  misfortune  to  be  obliged  to  contend 
against  the  impression  naturally  produced  by  events 
which  are  purely  exceptional :  such  as  the  boat  jour 
ney  towards  Beechy  Island,  in  1854,  and  those  tow 
ards  Upernavik,  in  1854  and  1855 ;  and  such  as 
have  occurred  during  the  search  for  Sir  John  Frank 
lin.  The  materials  are  before  the  reader  for  a  better 
estimate ;  and  I  cannot  but  hope  that,  from  this 
volume  alone,  he  will  have  gathered  such  facts  as 
may  serve  to  convince  him  that  the  incidents  which 
have  most  affected  his  feelings,  in  connection  with 
arctic  voyages,  are  not  legitimate  tests  of  the  gen 
eral  character  of  circumpolar  experience ;  that  they 


350  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

are,  in  truth,  exceptional ;  and  that  there  is  now  no 
probability  of  their  recurrence. 

While  the  civilized  world  is  encouraging  and  ap 
plauding  the  enterprise  of  men  like  Barth  and  Liv 
ingstone,  in  tropical  Africa,  whose  exposure  involves 
a  greater  variety  of  risks  than  await  the  arctic 
voyager,  shall  the  latter  be  discouraged  from  an 
undertaking,  the  conditions  of  whose  success  have 
been  made  known  by  our  countryman?* 

Does  the  reader  question  the  UTILITY  of  the  pro 
posed  discoveries  ?  Happily  on  this  head  I  am 
spared  the  hazard  of  any  reflections  of  my  own. 
The  subject  has  been  maturely  considered  by  the 
leading  scientific  associations  of  the  United  States ; 
whose  conclusions,  expressed  by  a  large  number  of 
our  most  eminent  citizens,  are  to  the  effect  that  the 
objects  contemplated  are  not  only  important  to  man 
kind,  but  are  such  as  warrant  a  full  sanction  and 
a  hearty  encouragement  of  my  expedition.  Their 
Reports  and  Resolutions  will  be  found  in  the  Ap 
pendix. 

So  convincing  to  myself  have  been  the  actual 
observations  made  of  the  intended  field  of  opera 
tions,  that  I  should  experience  a  feeling  of  mortifica 
tion  at  the  line  of  argument  which  has  been  fol 
lowed  in  this  concluding  chapter,  were  I  not  aware 
of  the  peculiar  causes  which  have  tended  to  mis 
lead  the  public  mind  in  relation  to  the  dangers  of 

*  A  gentleman  who,  during  several  years,  prosecuted,  alone,  journeys 
from  the  west  coast  of  Africa  into  the  interior,  about  the  Gaboon  and 
other  rivers,  has,  I  hesitate  not  to  say,  exposed  himself  to  more  risks  than 
can  be  even  plausibly  connected  with  the  line  of  discovery  up  Kennedy 
Channel.  M.  Duchaillu  went  without  a  companion,  and  purely  as  a  vol 
unteer,  for  the  collection  of  specimens  of  natural  history. 


CONCLUDING  REMARKS.  3?1 

northern  expeditions.  These  causes  justify  the  hesi 
tation  which  was  manifested  in  former  years ;  but, 
now  that  the  truth  has  been  made  known  by  so 
many  reliable  observers,  is  it  too  sanguine  a  dispo 
sition  which  leads  me  to  believe  that  I  shall  see 
again  the  little  flag  which  I  planted  upon  the  coast 
of  Grinnell  Land?19 


APPENDIX, 


30* 


APPENDIX. 


PROCEEDINGS   OF   SCIENTIFIC   SOCIETIES 


RELATIVE  TO 


DR.  HAYES'  PROPOSED  ARCTIC  EXPEDITION. 


THE  AMERICAN  GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  STATISTICAL  SOCIETY. 
[From  the  Report  of  the  Council  for  1857.] 

"DR.  HAYES  of  Philadelphia,  who  formed  one  of  the 
heroic  band,  accompanying  Dr.  Kane  in  his  last  attempt  to 
penetrate  to  the  still  mysterious  regions  round  the  Pole,  has 
read  to  the  Society  a  paper  full  of  valuable  details,  in  which 
he  proposed  to  renew  this  attempt.  Experience  was  shown 
to  have  done  much  to  prepare  the  way  for  success  in  this 
noble  endeavor.  As  Dr.  Hayes  expressed  the  intention  of 
devoting  himself  to  this  object,  and  of  employing  time  and 
effort  in  awakening  the  minds  of  our  countrymen  in  regard 
to  it,  this  endeavor  may  be  considered  to  be  one  of  those 
objects  to  which  our  attention  will  be  in  the  future  continu 
ously  directed,  through  the  section  having  in  charge  the  sub 
ject  of  Topography." 

[From  the  "  Journal "  of  the  Society  for  January,  1868.] 
"SECOND  MEETING,  DEC.  16,  1858.  — 1. 1.  Hayes,  M.  D. 
of  Philadelphia,  (late  Surgeon  to  the  Second  Grinnell  Arctic 
Expedition,)  read  a  paper  on  the  *  Polar  Discoveries  of  Dr. 


356  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

Kane,  and  a  Plan  for  further  Research.'  On  motion  of  Mr 
VIELE,  seconded  by  Mr.  HENRY  GRINNELL,  it  was  unan 
imously 

"  RESOLVED,  That  the  American  Geographical  Society 
cordially  approve,  and  indorse  the  plan  of  Doctor  Hayes 
for  a  continuation  of  the  exploration  and  surveys  of  the  Polar 
Seas,  deeming  it  due  alike  to  the  cause  of  science  and  our 
national  character,  that  the  discoveries  of  the  Grinnell  ex 
pedition,  reported  by  Dr.  Kane,  should  not  be  disputed  or 
ignored,  without  an  effort  being  made  to  confirm  the  results 
achieved  by  our  gallant  countrymen. 

"  RESOLVED,  That  a  committee  of  five  members  of  this 
Society  be  appointed  to  cooperate  with  Dr.  Hayes  in  the 
organization  of  the  Expedition  proposed  by  him;  which 
committee  shall  report,  from  time  to  time,  the  progress  of 
the  organization,  and  shall  give  due  notice  of  the  time  fixed 
for  the  departure  of  the  Expedition. 

"  A  vote  of  thanks  was  tendered  to  Dr.  Hayes,  and  a  copy 
of  his  paper  requested  for  the  archives  of  the  Society." 

THIRD  MEETING,  JANUARY  6,  1859.  —  In  accordance 
with  the  resolution  adopted  at  the  last  meeting  of  the  Society, 
the  President  appointed  EGBERT  L.  VIEL£,  Esq.,  HENRY 
GRINNELL,  Esq.,  Hon.  AUGUST  BELMONT,  MARSHALL 
LEFFERTS,  Esq.,  HENRY  E.  PIERREPONT,  Esq.,  a  special 
committee  "to  cooperate  with  Dr.  Hayes  in  his  plan  for  fur 
ther  research  into  the  arctic  regions." 


n. 

THE    AMERICAN    ASSOCIATION    FOR    THE    ADVANCEMENT 
OF   SCIENCE. 

BALTIMORE,  MAY  3,  1858. — At  half-past  one  o'clock, 
p.  M.,  Dr.  I.  I.  Hayes  delivered  in  general  session  a  paper 
on  the  practicability  of  reaching  the  North  Pole.  A  vote  ot 


APPENDIX.  357 

thanks  having  been  passed  upon  motion  of  Prof.  WM.  B. 
ROGERS,  seconded  by  Prof.  A.  DALLAS  BACHE,  Prof. 
HITCHCOCK  moved  the  following  resolution:  — 

"  RESOLVED,  That  a  special  committee  of  seven  be  ap 
pointed  by  the  Chair  to  inquire  and  report  at  this  session 
upon  the  expediency  of  having  a  committee  of  the  Associa 
tion  to  cooperate  with  Dr.  Hayes  in  reference  to  an  Expedi 
tion  to  the  North  Polar  Sea." 

The  resolution  having  been  adopted,  the  Chair  appointed 
the  following  gentlemen  as  members  of  the  committee  :  — 

Prof.  EDWARD  HITCHCOCK,  Prof.  JOSEPH  HENRY,  Prof. 
A.  DALLAS  BACHE,  Hon.  THOMAS  EWING,  Prof.  JAMES 
D.  DANA,  and  Hon.  THOMAS  SWANN. 

BALTIMORE,  MAY  4,  1858.  —  "The  committee  to  whom 
was  referred  the  subject  of  Dr.  I.  I.  Hayes'  proposed  Expe 
dition  to  the  Arctic  Seas  report,  that,  — 

"  1.  The  question  of  the  open  Polar  Sea,  its  limits  and 
character,  is  the  most  interesting  of  those  remaining  to  be 
completely  solved  in  arctic  geography. 

"  2.  The  statements  of  Dr.  Hayes,  surgeon  to  Doctor 
Kane's  Second  Grinnell  Expedition,  make  it  probable,  that, 
with  moderate  means  and  appliances,  this  problem  may  bo 
completely  solved. 

"  3.  The  indirect  results  readily  obtained  by  such  an  ex 
pedition  in  regard  to  the  magnetism,  tides,  currents,  meteo 
rology,  geology,  and  natural  history  of  the  arctic  regions,  and 
the  peculiar  phenomena  of  glaciers  and  icebergs,  and  the 
ethnology,  are  of  themselves  of  such  importance  as  to  de 
mand  further  research. 

"  4.  Dr.  Hayes  is  desirous  of  devoting  himself  to  this  line 
of  exploration,  in  the  difficulties,  hardships,  and  dangers  of 
which  he  has,  when  serving  with  the  lamented  Kane,  had 
full  experience. 

"  5.  Therefore,  this  special  committee  recommends  to  the 
Association  the  passage  of  the  following  resolution :  — 


358  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOUENEY. 

"  RESOLVED,  That  a  committee  of  fifteen  members  of  the 
American  Association  be  appointed  to  cooperate  with  Dr. 
Hayes  in  his  efforts  to  organize  another  expedition  for  arctic 
research.  EDWARD  HITCHCOCK,  Chairman." 

The  report  having  been  unanimously  adopted,  the  follow 
ing  committee  was  appointed  by  the  Chair  in  accordance  with 
its  recommendation :  — 

Prof.  A.  D.  BACHE,  Prof.  JOSEPH  HENRY,  Prof.  W.  B. 
ROGERS,  Prof.  EDWARD  HFTCHCOCK,  Prof.  BENJAMIN 
PEIRCE,  Prof.  J.  D.  DANA,  Prof.  JOSEPH  WINLOCK,  Hon. 
THOMAS  EWING,  Hon.  D.  M.  BARRINGER,  Dr.  J.  L.  LE 

CONTE,    Prof.  J.  E.  HlLGARD,    PETER    FORCE,    Esq.,    Prof. 

JOSEPH  LEIDY,  Dr.  JOHN  TORREY,  Prof.  S.  S.  HALDEMAN. 
On  motion  of  Prof.  BACHE,  Prof.  CASWELL,  the  Presi 
dent  of  the  Association,  was  added  to  the  committee  on  arctic 
exploration. 


HI. 

THE  AMERICAN  PHILOSOPHICAL  SOCIETY. 

» 
[From  the  "  Proceedings  "  of  the  Society  for  1858.] 

"  STATED  MEETING,  MAY  7r  1858.  —  A  letter  was  read 
from  Dr.  Isaac  I.  Hayes,  proposing  to  make  an  attempt  to 
reach  the  north  pole  of  the  earth,  and  requesting  to  be  in 
formed  of  any  measures  which  in  the  judgment  of  the  Society 
it  will  be  expedient  for  him  to  adopt,  to  promote  the  advance 
ment  of  any  of  the  sciences  for  whose  interests  it  labors. 

"  Dr.  Le  Conte  offered  the  following  resolutions  which  were 
read,  considered,  and  adopted  :  — 

"  RESOLVED,  That  the  Society  receives  with  much  grati 
fication  the  announcement  made  by  Dr.  I.  I.  Hayes,  of  his 
purpose  to  attempt  a  further  exploration  of  the  arctic  T& 


APPENDIX.  359 

gions,  and,  if  practicable,  to  reach  the  north  pole  of  the 
earth. 

"  RESOLVED,  That  in  the  opinion  of  this  Society,  such  an 
exploration  merits  the  zealous  cooperation  of  the  scientific 
men  of  the  United  States,  and  that,  at  a  convenient  time,  the 
Society  will  communicate  to  Dr.  Hayes  such  suggestions 
respecting  the  promotion  of  its  objects  as  may  be  considered 
useful : 

"  RESOLVED,  That  a  committee  of  five  be  appointed,  to 
cooperate  with  the  committee  recently  appointed  with  refer 
ence  to  this  subject  by  the  American  Association  for  the 
Advancement  of  Science,  and  to  take  such  measures  from 
time  to  time,  in  behalf  of  this  Society  as  shall  be  deemed 
expedient." 

"STATED  MEETING,  OCTOBER  1,  1858.  —  The  commit 
tee  appointed  on  th6  7th  of  May  last,  on  the  subject  of  fur 
ther  arctic  explorations,  by  Dr.  I.  I.  Hayes,  made  the  fol 
lowing  Report :  — 

" l  The  committee  to  whom  was  referred  the  subject  of  the 
arctic  exploration  proposed  by  Dr.  I.  I.  Hayes,  respectfully 
report,  — 

"  *  That,  beside  any  reflections  of  their  own  upon  that  sub 
ject,  they  find  in  previous  proceedings  of  the  Society  ample 
warrant  for  the  opinion,  that  the  verification  of  the  alleged 
open  sea  about  the  North  Pole,  and  the  probable  contributions 
to  be  made  from  that  region  of  the  earth  to  the  collections 
of  science,  constitute  sufficient  reasons  for  an  earnest  interest 
on  the  part  of  the  Society,  in  any  reasonable  attempt  to  com 
plete  our  knowledge  in  these  respects  by  further  exploration. 
After  the  signal  manifestations  which  have  been  given  by 
men  of  science  throughout  the  world,  of  their  estimate  of  the 
importance  of  circumpolar  discovery ;  and  with  the  advan 
tage  of  recent  reports,  from  a  high  latitude,  received  from 
our  lamented  fellow-member,  the  late  Dr.  Kane,  whose 
efforts  were  accompanied  by  warm  solicitude  on  the  part 


3P>0  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

of  the  Society,  your  committee  have  believed  it  proper  to 
confine  themselves  to  a  consideration  of  the  grounds  upon 
which  Dr.  Hayes  rests  his  conviction  of  the  practicability 
and  seasonableness  of  his  proposal.  These  have  been  al 
ready  briefly  submitted  to  the  American  Association  for  the 
Advancement  of  Science,  and  have  received  a  very  prompt 
acceptance  by  that  body,  the  members  of  which  referred  the 
subject  to  a  committee,  with  instructions  to  cooperate  with 
Dr.  Hayes.  They  have  been  also  published  through  the 
Smithsonian  Institution,  at  an  invitation  from  which,  Dr. 
Hayes  announced  them  ut  one  of  the  lectures  of  its  last 
course.  Nevertheless,  your  committee  think  proper  to  men 
tion  the  principal  of  them  as  forming  the  basis  of  their  own 
conclusion,  that  the  proposal  in  question  is  sustained  by  suffi 
cient  evidence  of  its  feasibility  to  engage  the  continued  atten 
tion  of  the  Society. 

" '  It  is  well  known  that  one  result  of  voyages  of  explora 
tion  prior  to  that  of  Dr.  Kane,  was  the  establishment  of  an 
opinion  that  a  barrier  of  ice  surrounded  the  Pole  ;  and  that 
in  order  to  reach  open  water,  if  such  existed,  a  way  must  be 
found  through,  or  over  the  barrier.  Dr.  Kane,  after  an  in 
telligent  consideration  of  the  discoveries  already  reported, 
aided  by  the  illustrations  derived  from  his  personal  observa 
tion  during  his  first  visit  to  the  arctic  circle,  concluded,  that 
the  most  practicable  course  lay  up  Smith  Strait,  which  he 
accordingly  followed  upon  his  second  voyage.  The  difficul 
ties  encountered  by  him  were  such,  that,  after  many  gallant 
efforts,  he  was  compelled  to  return  to  the  United  States  with 
out  becoming  an  eye-witness  to  the  physical  condition  of  the 
region  towards  which  his  labors  tended.  It  seemed  therefore 
proper  for  your  committee  to  inquire  whether  those  difficul 
ties  were  clearly  of  so  constant  a  nature  in  relation  to  all 
similar  attempts,  as  to  render  it  prudent  on  the  part  of  the 
Society  to  avoid  encouragement  of  a  project  which  his  expe 
rience  may  have  shown  to  be  impracticable.  It  appears  that 
the  most  important  impediments  to  his  complete  success  were 


APPENDIX.  361 

"'  1st.  The  arresting  of  his  vessel  and  her  permanent  con 
finement  by  the  ice,  in  a  situation  which  was  unfavorable  to 
the  efforts  of  his  exploring  parties.  This  occurred  in  a  bay 
to  the  south  of  Kennedy  Channel,  with  an  exposure  to  the 
main  pressure  of  ice,  which  accumulated  in  hammocks  on  the 
north  of  his  position  ;  and  thus  the  labor  necessary  to  any 
exploration  towards  the  Pole,  was  in  disproportion  to  the 
strength  of  his  crew,  and  the  resources  at  his  command. 
On  the  west  side  of  the  channel,  under  the  cover  of  the  pro 
jecting  land  visited  by  Dr.  Hayes,  (to  the  most  prominent 
point  of  which  the  name  Cape  Frazer  was  given,)  the  ice  is 
reported  as  free  from  the  impediments  above  stated ;  and  a 
good  harbor  is  reported  to  exist  for  wintering  a  ship,  with 
egress  by  the  opening  of  the  channel,  or  through  leads  in  the 
ice  during  the  arctic  summer.  The  account  published  by 
Dr.  Kane,  shows  how  large  a  proportion  of  the  sufferings 
and  disappointments  of  his  exploring  parties  was  due  to  the 
position  into  which  he  was  forced. 

" l  2d.  The  want  of  fresh  provisions.  The  unavoidable 
delay  of  Dr.  Kane's  departure  from  New  York  beyond  the 
period  proposed  by  him,  prevented  his  collecting,  near  the 
Danish  settlements  in  Greenland,  the  fresh  stores  which 
abound  in  that  neighborhood.  Originally  contemplating  a 
single  year's  work,  he  was  detained  beyond  his  expectation, 
with  scanty  supplies,  until  his  men,  worn  out  by  excessive 
labor,  and  restricted  mainly  to  a  salt  diet,  became  the  victims 
of  fearful  assaults  of  scurvy.  His  narrative  shows  how  much 
of  his  disappointment  is  due  to  this  cause.  His  dogs,  in 
dispensable  auxiliaries,  were  unable  to  subsist  upon  salted 
meats ;  and  thus  the  entire  stress  of  the  work  fell  upon  an 
ill-conditioned  ship's  company.  Dr.  Hayes  proposes  to  give 
two  years  to  his  exploration.  The  first  of  these  he  designs  to 
employ  in  reaching  his  head-quarters  at  or  near  Cape  Fra 
zer  ;  and  in  establishing  thence  northward,  on  the  west  side 
of  Kennedy  Channel,  secure  depots  of  provisions,  as  far  as 
the  latitude  assigned  by  Morton  to  the  open  water  reported 

31 


362  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOUKNEY. 

by  him,  or  further,  if  necessary;  and  in  explorations  pre 
liminary  to  the  main  attempt.  The  second  year,  or  such 
portion  of  it  as  may  be  sufficient,  Dr.  Hayes  appropriates  to 
the  ascertainment  of  the  condition  of  the  polar  adjacencies, 
and  to  such  observations  as  may  be  most  important  to  sci 
ence.  Thus  the  expedition  of  Dr.  Kane,  which  may 
seem  to  discourage  further  attempts  in  the  same  direction, 
is  viewed  by  Dr.  Hayes  as  really  furnishing  the  knowledge 
which  promises  final  success.  Your  committee  concur  in 
this  view. 

" '  In  such  circumstances,  your  committee  cannot  doubt 
that  it  is  proper  for  the  American  Philosophical  Society  to 
cooperate  with  Dr.  Hayes,  in  such  manner  as  may  be  con 
formable  with  its  usages  in  like  cases  j  and  especially  to  give 
to  him  the  benefit  of  such  systematic  instruction  as  may  best 
further  the  general  purposes  of  the  Society  in  the  discovery 
and  diffusion  of  useful  knowledge. 

"  '  Your  committee  respectfully  submit  the  following  reso 
lution  :  — 

" '  RESOLVED,  That  a  committee  of  nine  members  of  the 
Society  be  appointed  to  cooperate  with  Dr.  Hayes  in  his 
proposed  extension  of  arctic  exploration,  and  to  give  to  him, 
on  the  part  of  the  Society,  such  instructions  as  may  best  pro 
mote  its  objects. 

" '  All  of  which  is  respectfully  submitted. 

WM.  PARKER  FOULKE, 

STEPHEN  COLWELL,  „ 

_  V    Committee: 

R.  E.  ROGERS, 

WM.    S.    W.    RUSCHENBERGER, 

"  The  resolution  accompanying  the  report  was  adopted, 
and  the  presiding  officer  authorized  to  appoint  the  committee, 
and  announce  it  at  a  future  meeting." 

STATED  MEETING,  MAY  6,  1859.  —  The  following  named 
members  were  appointed  a  committee  to  cooperate  with  Dr. 
I.  I.  Hayes  in  further  arctic  exploration  :  — 


APPENDIX.  363 

WM.  PARKER  FOULKE,  Esq.,  Prof.  EGBERT  E.  ROGERS, 
ISAAC  LEA,  Esq.,  Dr.  JOHN  L.  LECONTE,  Prof.  E.  OTIS 
KENDALL,  Prof.  J.  P.  LESLEY,  Rev.  ALBERT  BARNES, 
D.  D.,  Hon.  EDWARD  KING,  Prof.  J.  C.  CRESSON. 


IV. 

THE  ACADEMY  OF  NATURAL  SCIENCES  OF  PHILADELPHIA. 
[From  the  "Proceedings"  of  the  Academy  for  1858.] 

MEETING  OF  THE  ACADEMY,  MAY  11,  1858.  —  "A  com 
munication  was  read  from  Dr.  Isaac  I.  Hayes,  announcing 
his  desire  to  attempt  a  further  exploration  of  the  arctic 
regions,  and  asking  for  such  suggestions  from  the  Academy 
as  might  assist  in  carrying  out  the  project;  whereupon  the 
following  resolutions  were  adopted :  — 

"  RESOLVED,  That  the  Academy  has  heard  with  great 
interest  the  communication  of  Dr.  Isaac  I.  Hayes,  of  his 
purpose  to  attempt  a  further  exploration  of  the  arctic 
regions : 

"  RESOLVED,  That  the  Academy  will  hereafter  give  to 
Dr.  Hayes  such  recommendations  respecting  the  objects  pro 
posed  by  him,  as  shall  be  deemed  most  likely  to  promote  the 
objects  of  the  Academy : 

"RESOLVED,  That  a  committee  of  seven  be  appointed 
to  cooperate  in  behalf  of  the  Academy  with  Dr.  Hayes." 

The  committee  was  then  appointed  as  follows  :  — 

Prof.  JOHN  F.  FRAZER,  Dr.  T.  B.  WILSON,  ISAAC  LEA, 
Esq.,  WM.  PARKER  FOULKE,  Esq.,  Dr.  J.  L.  LECONTE, 
Prof.  Jos.  LEIDY,  Dr.  WILLIAM  S.  W  RUSCHENBERGER, 
U.  S.  N. 

Subsequently,  on  motion,  ELIAS  DURAND,  Esq.,  and  Prof. 
JOSEPH  CARSON,  were  added  to  the  committee. 


364  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

MEETING  OF  THE  ACADEMY,  JULY  6, 1858.  —  "  On  leave 
granted,  the  committee  appointed  to  confer  with  Dr.  Hayes 
in  regard  to  his  proposed  Arctic  Exploration,  presented  a 
Report  as  follows  :  — 

"That  the  exploration  .contemplated  by  Dr.  Hayes  ap 
pears  to  deserve  the  encouragement  of  all  individuals  or 
societies  who  possess  an  interest  in  the  advancement  of 
science,  and  especially  of  those  who  cultivate  the  various 
branches  of  Natural  History,  for  the  following  reasons : 

"  1st.  The  interesting  problem  of  the  existence  of  an  open 
Polar  Sea  cannot  as  yet  be  considered  as  satisfactorily 
solved ;  as  is  made  manifest  by  the  doubts  recently  expressed 
by  a  distinguished  geographer,  in  a  memoir  read  before  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London.  Yet  this  problem 
is  so  intimately  connected  with  theories  of  climate,  not  only 
in  that  region,  but  over  a  very  large  portion  of  the  northern 
hemisphere,  that  its  definite  solution  must  be  considered  as 
of  the  utmost  importance  to  the  study  of  geography ;  and  it 
is  not  impossible  that  its  investigation  may  lead  to  valuable 
results  of  a  more  commercial  nature.  It  seems  probable, 
therefore,  that  this  subject  will  attract  the  attention  of  other 
nations,  who  are  engaged  in  an  honorable  rivalry  with  us  in 
promoting  the  knowledge  of  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and 
it  is  highly  desirable  that  the  credit  of  furnishing  the  defi 
nite  solution  should  belong  to  the  nation  to  whose  energy 
and  enterprise  the  interesting  results  already  obtained  are 
due. 

"  2d.  The  natural  history  of  this  extensive  region  remains, 
as  yet,  almost  entirely  unknown ;  while,  from  the  peculi 
arities  of  its  climate,  and  its  proximity  to  the  land  of  the 
eastern  hemisphere,  it  seems  certain  that  much  valuable 
information  as  to  the  habits  of  animals  and  plants,  and  the 
connection  of  our  Faunas  and  Floras,  both  ancient  and 
modern,  with  those  of  Europe  and  Asia,  may  be  gained  by 
such  an  exploration  as  is  here  contemplated. 


APPENDIX.  365 

"3d.  The  excessive  difficulties  and  hardships  of  such  an 
exploration,  serve  to  deter  any  but  the  most  adventurous 
spirits  from  undertaking  it ;  while  the  peculiar  circumstances 
under  which  both  the  instruments  of  observation  and  the 
observers  themselves  are  placed,  render  a  frequent  repetition 
of  the  observations  necessary  to  produce  confidence  in  the 
results.  Every  encouragement  should,  therefore,  be  extended 
to  all  who  are  willing  to  undertake  the  arduous  task,  and 
capable  of  properly  meeting  its  unusual  responsibilities. 

"The  committee  therefore  recommend  to  the  Academy 
the  adoption  of  the  following  resolutions :  — 

"  RESOLVED,  That  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences 
of  Philadelphia,  having  full  confidence  in  the  energy,  pru 
dence,  and  scientific  capacity  of  Dr.  Hayes,  recommends  the 
arctic  expedition  projected  by  him  to  the  favorable  consid 
eration  of  all  who  are  in  a  position  to  assist  him  in  his  enter 
prise,  believing  that  its  success  will  contribute  largely  to  the 
advancement  of  science  and  to  the  honor  of  our*  country. 

"  RESOLVED,  That  the  Academy  will  cheerfully  assist 
Dr.  Hayes,  in  carrying  out  his  plans,  by  all  the  means  in 
its  power. 

JOHN  F.  FRAZER, 

T.  B.  WILSON, 

ISAAC  LEA, 

WM.  PARKER  FOULKE, 


J.  L.  LECONTE, 


JOSEPH  LEIDT, 

WM.  S.  W.  RUSCHENBERGER, 
E.  DuRANDy 

JOSEPH  CARSON, 
"  The  report  and  resolutions  were  adopted,  and  the  com 
mittee  continued." 
31* 


>  Committee. 


366  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 


V. 

THE  AMERICAN  ACADEMY  OF  ARTS  AND   SCIENCES,   OF 
BOSTON. 

[From  the  "  Proceedings  "  of  the  Academy  for  1858.] 

MONTHLY  MEETING,  OCTOBER  12,  1858.  —  "  Professor 
Joseph  Levering,  in  behalf  of  the  committee  to  whom  was 
referred  the  communication  of  Dr.  I.  I.  Hayes,  dated  July 
19th,  1858,  requesting  the  counsel  and  favorable  influence 
of  the  Academy,  in  his  proposed  attempt  to  reach  the  north 
pole  of  the  earth,  read  the  following  Keport :  — 

"  The  announcement  of  an  open  sea  within  the  Arctic 
Ocean  was  made  in  these  words  by  Dr.  Kane  after  the  re 
turn  of  his  man  Morton  from  a  sledge  excursion  in  June, 
1854.  '  It  must  have  been  an  imposing  sight,  as  he  stood  at 
this  termination  of  his  journey,  looking  out  upon  the  great 
waste  of  waters  before  him.  '  Not  a  speck  of  ice,'  to  use 
his  own  words,  '  could  be  seen.  There,  from  a  height  of 
four  hundred  and  eighty  feet,  which  commanded  a  horizon 
of  almost  forty  miles,  his  ears  were  gladdened  by  the  novel 
music  of  dashing  waters,  and  a  surf,  breaking  in  among  the 
rocks  at  his  feet,  stayed  his  further  progress.' 

"  The  committee  have  quoted  the  eloquent  language  of 
Dr.  Kane,  without  stopping  to  inquire  how  much  of  this 
glowing  description  is  to  be  referred  to  the  enthusiasm  of  an 
explorer,  and  how  much  is  to  be  interpreted  by  a  cool  criti 
cism  at  a  distance  from  the  scene  of  operations. 

"  The  question  which,  it  is  expected,  may  be  settled  by 
another  arctic  expedition  is,  whether  the  great  ice-barrier, 
which  on  some  meridians,  and  at  some  seasons,  encroaches 
even  upon  the  48th  parallel  of  latitude,  and  which  invests  an 
area  of  six  millions  of  square  miles,  extends  northwards  to  the 
Pole ;  or  whether,  beyond  the  limits  of  extreme  arctic  navi 
gation,  which  leaves  an  unexplored  surface  of  three  millions 
of  square  miles,  there  lies  imprisoned  in  a  zone  of  ice,  the  un- 


APPENDIX*.  367 

frozen  waters  of  a  polar  sea.  The  conclusion  of  Dr.  Kane, 
that  the  latter  was  the  true  side  of  the  alternative,  was  antici 
pated  by  that  of  a  Russian  expedition,  on  sledges,  in  1810, 
made  upon  an  opposite  meridian  to  that  which  Kane  trav 
elled,  and  of  Parry  in  1827  upon  a  third  meridian. 

"  The  impression  favorable  to  an  open  and  navigable  polar 
sea,  which  was  obtained  on  these  occasions,  based  as  it  was 
upon  a  very  circumscribed  experience,  and  prevented  by 
stress  of  circumstances  from  being  pursued  to  verification, 
might  seem  to  fall  considerably  short  of  a  rational  belief, 
were  it  not,  in  the  opinion  of  Dr.  Hayes  and  others,  corrob 
orated  by  various  kinds  of  circumstantial  evidence,  as  fol 
lows  :  — 

"  1.  By  the  presence  of  bird-life,  mostly  marine,  on  what 
would  be  the  icy  shores  of  this  suspected  sea,  and  which  mi 
grate  northward  in  spring. 

"2.  By  the  milder  temperature  at  extreme  latitude,  in 
ferred  from  the  character  of  the  isothermals  where  best 
determined ;  and  which,  pursued  by  analogy  to  unvisited  lati 
tudes,  give  the  same  temperature  to  the  high  latitude  of  90° 
as  to  the  arctic  circle. 

"  3.  By  the  migrations  of  human  life ;  the  traditions  of 
the  Esquimaux,  pointing  to  the  north  as  the  cradle  of  their 
race.  If  the  fact  is  established,  that  races  deteriorate  as 
they  remove  from  the  parallel  of  their  nativity,  then  the  tra 
dition  of  the  degenerate  Esquimaux  is  confirmed  by  their 
own  degeneracy. 

"  4.  By  the  temperature  of  the  arctic  waters,  which  were 
observed  by  William  Morton,  and  recorded  by  Kane,  as  only 
36°  Fahr.  in  June,  1854,  or  two  degrees  above  the  tempera 
ture  of  the  air  at  the  same  time ;  the  water  flowing  from  the 
north  and  no  ice  being  in  sight.  Whether  this  water  is 
frozen  in  winter,  is  not,  however,  known. 

"5.  By  the  rise  of  the  temperature  in  winter  when  the 
north  wind  sets  in,  which  is  also  damp ;  as  observed  by 
Baron  Von  Wrangel  and  Sir  Edward  Parry.  The  cause 


368  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

of  this  elevated  temperature  in  the  arctic  waters,  Dr.  Hayes 
thinks,  may  be  found  in  the  influence  of  the  Gulf  Stream 
flowing  northward  as  an  under-current  to  equalize  the  effects 
of  the  superficial  flow  southward.  This  direction  in  the  flow 
of  the  deep  water,  is  inferred  from  the  drift  of  the  deeply- 
laden  icebergs  northwards,  while  the  lighter  ones  move 
southward.  Moreover,  what  compensation  for  astronomical 
exposure  may  not  the  drainage  of  five  millions  of  square 
miles  from  the  northern  water-sheds  of  Europe,  Asia,  and 
America,  introduce  into  the  temperature  of  the  great  arctic 
basin  ? 

"  If  these  mild  waters,  embosomed  for  centuries  in  a  zone 
of  ice,  are  to  be  reached  by  civilized  man,  Dr.  Hayes  thinks 
that  the  best  invitation  to  success  comes,  not  from  a  purely 
nautical  expedition  along  the  easterly  coast  of  Greenland, 
but  from  more  westerly  meridians,  to  be  traversed  by  boats 
and  sledges. 

"  The  committee  do  not  feel  called  .upon  to  examine, 
singly  or  collectively,  the  force  of  these  various  arguments 
in  favor  of  an  open  polar  sea.  It  is  certain,  however,  that 
human  curiosity  will  not  be  satisfied  until  the  mystery  on  this 
subject  is  cleared  up  by  new  expeditions.  To  postpone  these 
expeditions  to  another  generation,  when  much  of  the  per 
sonal  experience  already  gained  will  have  been  forgotten,  and 
when  the  services  of  those  best  qualified  to  conduct  them 
can  no  longer  be  commanded,  would  not  be  a  wise  economy. 

"  With  these  few  hints  on  the  views  and  objects  of  Dr. 
Hayes,  in  his  appeal  to  the  Academy  for  scientific  aid  and 
sympathy,  your  .committee  conclude  with  the  recommenda 
tion  of  the  following  resolutions :  — 

"  RESOLVED,  That  the  American  Academy  of  Arts  and 
Sciences  appreciate  highly  the  laudable  ambition  of  Dr.  I.  I. 
Hayes,  to  continue,  and,  if  possible,  consummate,  the  arduous 
exploration  for  which  he  has  already  sacrificed  much,  and  is 
willing  to  sacrifice  still  more  ;  and  that  the  Academy  tender 
him  their  sympathy  and  influence. 


APPENDIX  369 

"RESOLVED,  That  a  committee  of  seven  be  appointed, 
from  the  members  of  the  academy,  to  cooperate  with  Dr.  I. 
I.  Hayes,  and  to  render  him  such  scientific  counsel  as  may 
make  his  new  effort,  if  undertaken,  secure  the  greatest  ad 
vantages  to  science  and  humanity. 

JOSEPH  LOVERING,  ^ 
HENRY  L.  EUSTIS,     >  Committee. 
JOSEPH  WINLOCK,   ) 

u  On  motion  of  Professor  FELT  ON,  the  resolutions  were 
adopted  unanimously,  and  the  subject  was  referred  to  a  com 
mittee,  consisting  of — 

"  Prof.  JOSEPH  LOVERIJSG,  Prof.  HENRY  L.  EUSTIS,  Prof. 
JOSEPH  WINLOCK,  THOMAS  G.  CAREY,  Esq.,  BENJAMIN  A. 
GOULD,  Esq.,  Prof.  THEOPHILUS  PARSONS,  EDWARD  WIG- 

GLESWORTH,  Esq." 


VI. 

THE    BOSTON    SOCIETY    OF   NATURAL   HISTORY. 
[Fr6m  the  "  Proceedings"  of  the  Society,  for  1858.] 

MEETING  OF  THE  SOCIETY,  SEPTEMBER  1,  1858.  —  "A 
letter  was  read  from  Dr.  I.  I.  Hayes,  to  the  President,  an 
nouncing  his  intention  of  making  another  attempt  to  reach 
the  north  pole  of  the  earth.  On  motion  of  Prof.  PARSONS, 
the  subject  was  referred  to  a  committee  to  be  nominated 
by  the  President,  and  reported  on  at  the  next  meeting." 

MEETING  OF  THE  SOCIETY,  SEPTEMBER  15, 1858. — "The 
President  nominated,  as  a  committee  on  the  subject  of  Dr. 
Hayes'  proposed  Arctic  Expedition,  Prof.  THEOPHILUS  PAR 
SONS,  Dr.  A.  A.  GOULD,  and  Dr.  S.  KNEEL  AND,  Jr.,  and 
they  were  chosen." 

MEETING  OF  THE  SOCIETY,  NOVEMBER  3,  1858.  —  "The 


370  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT'JOURNEY. 

committee,  to  whom  was  referred  the  letter  of  Dr,  1. 1.  Hayes, 
announcing  his  intention  of  making  another  attempt  to  reach 
the  north  pole  of  the  earth,  would  report :  — 

"1.  That  we  regard  the  proposed  expeditions  with  no 
ordinary  interest ;  and  receive  assurance  that  it  will  be  suc 
cessfully  prosecuted,  in  view  of  the  near  approaches  which 
have  already  been  made  in  that  direction ;  the  reasons  by 
which  it  is  shown  that  the  obstacles  hitherto  encountered 
may  be,  in  a  great  measure,  evaded ;  the  personal  expe 
riences  of  its  conductor  of  the  dangers  and  rigors  to  be  met, 
and  his  ability  to  forestall  them ;  and,  especially,  in  his  ac 
quaintance  with  the  residences  and  characters  of  the  natives, 
on  whom  he  must  mainly  rely  for  extra  aid,  —  an  acquaint 
ance,  probably,  superior  to  that  of  any  other  person. 

"  2.  That  while  the  hopes  of  former  expeditions  may  not 
have  been  fully  realized,  yet,  that  in  view  of  the  additions 
made  to  human  knowledge,  as  to  the  Metereology,  Geography, 
and  other  natural  features  of  our  globe,  as  well  as  the  proofs 
they  have  given  of  the  physical  endurance,  perseverance, 
and  moral  energies  of  our  race,  enough  has  been  attained  to 
entitle  them  to  be  considered  as  anything  but  unsuccessful ; 
and  that  we  anticipate  similar  results  from  this,  results  in 
no  way  inferior  to  those  attaching  to  previous  expeditions. 

"  3.  That  whatever  of  encouragement  or  countenance  can 
be  derived  from  this  Society,  we  wish  to  tender  to  Dr.  Hayes, 
assuring  him  that  our  best  wishes  will  accompany  him ;  and 
of  our  confidence  that  his  return  will  be  fraught  with  fruits 
most  valuable  to  science. 

"  All  which  is  respectfully  submitted. 

AUGUSTUS  A.  GOULD,      ^ 

SAMUEL  KNEELAND,  Jr.,    >  Committee. 

THEOPHILUS  PARSONS,    ) 

"  The  report  and  accompanying  resolutions  were  accepted 
and  adopted  as  the  sense  of  the  Society,  and  the  correspond 
ing  secretary  was  directed  to  communicate  a  copy  of  the 
same  to  Dr.  Hayes." 


APPENDIX.  371 

VII. 

THE  NEW  YORK  LYCEUM  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY. 

Meeting  of  the  Lyceum,  December  28th,  1858. 

The  committee  appointed  to  prepare  resolutions  in  refer 
ence  to  the  proposed  Expedition  of  Dr.  Hayes  to  the  Arctic 
Sea,  reported :  — 

"  That  notwithstanding  the  many  expeditions  that  have 
explored  different  positions  of  arctic  America,  much  yet 
remains  to  be  learned,  respecting  the  Physical  Geography 
and  Zoology  of  those  regions  ;  and  Dr.  Hayes  having  at  our 
last  meeting  given  an  outline  of  his  contemplated  explo 
rations,  we  cannot,  as  Naturalists,  but  feel  a  hope  that  in  the 
prosecution  of  his  project,  much  valuable  information  may  be 
obtained  to  perfect  the  knowledge  we  now  have  of  the  pro 
ductions  and  zoology  of  the  extreme  north. 

"  On  this  account  it  seems  proper  that  some  expression  of 
interest  should  be  manifested,  and  encouragement  given  him 
by  all  scientific  societies,  and  we  therefore  recommend  the 
adoption  of  the  following  resolutions :  — - 

"  RESOLVED,  That  the  Lyceum  of  Natural  History  in 
New  York  cordially  approves  of  the  plan  proposed  by  Dr. 
Hayes,  and  with  the  expectation  that  if  he  succeeds  in  reach 
ing  a  higher  arctic  parallel  than  has  heretofore  been  attained, 
some  valuable  contributions  to  science  may  reasonably  be 
expected ;  and  the  Lyceum  therefore  fully  unites  in  the  rec 
ommendations  of  his  project  by  other  societies,  and  willingly 
adds  its  influence,  with  the  hope  that  all  interested  in  scien 
tific  research,  and  having  the  ability,  will  aid  him  in  his  self- 
sacrificing  design." 

Extracted  from  the  Minutes. 

JOHN  REDFIELD,  Corresponding  Secretary. 


372  AN  AECTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

VIII. 

THE  EOYAL   GEOGRAPHICAL  SOCIETY  OF  LONDON. 
[From  the  "  Proceedings  "  of  the  Society  for  1858.] 

MEETING  OF  THE  SOCIETY,  JUNE  14th,  1858.  —  The 
President,  Sir  RODERICK  IMPEY  MURCHISON,  said :  "  I 
ought  to  mention,  to  the  honor  of  our  kinsmen  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Atlantic,  that,  not  content  with  having  done  so 
much  in  search  of  Franklin,  they  now,  on  the  proposal  of  Dr. 
Hayes,  the  companion  of  Kane,  contemplate  a  further  expe 
dition  to  ascertain  whether  there  is  or  is  not  an  open  sea 
beyond  Smith  Sound.  As  geographers  we  cannot  too 
warmly  thank  them  for  the  spirit  they  have  displayed  in 
this  arctic  subject." 


IX. 

LETTER  FROM  PROFESSOR  A.  DALLAS  BACHE, 

Superintendent  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey. 

COAST  SURVEY  OFFICE,         i 
WASHINGTON,  December  15, 1858.  j 

DEAR  SIR  :  —  I  am  glad  to  learn  from  you  that  the  New 
York  Geographical  and  Statistical  Society  has  secured  the 
reading  of  a  paper  from  you  before  it,  on  Arctic  Exploration. 
The  interest  which  the  Society  took  in  Dr.  Kane's  expedi 
tions  will  naturally  make  the  members  desire  to  complete 
what  was  so  admirably  begun.  The  question  of  the  open 
Polar  Sea  is  the  great  geographical  question  of  the  day :  it 
is  a  question  connected  with  the  geography  of  our  own  con 
tinent,  and  one  which  Americans  have  taken  the  lead  in 
solving.  I  do  sincerely  hope  that  we  may  follow  it  to  the 
end. 

You  are  aware  that  Assistant  Charles  A.  Schott,  of  the 


APPENDIX.  373 

Coast  Survey,  has,  at  my  request,  devoted  a  part  of  his  time 
not  occupied  by  his  official  duties  in  discussing  the  astronom 
ical,  meteorological,  magnetic,  and  tidal  observations  collected 
by  Dr.  Kane,  in  the  Second  Grinnell  Expedition.  He  has 
recently  communicated  to  me  a  most  interesting  confirmation 
of  the  observations  bearing  upon  the  existence  of  open  water 
near  the  Pole.  He  says  in  a  note  of  December  4th,  which 
is  before  me,  "  It  appears,  from  notes  collected  from  the 
log-books  of  the  Advance,  that  the  southeast  (magnetic), 
north-northeast  (true)  winds  had  the  effect  of  elevating  the 
temperature  of  the  air  even  in  the  winter  months,  which 
may  be  supposed  to  have  ai^isen  from  its  originating  or  blow 
ing  over  a  water  area,  partially  open  (this  water  would  have 
a  surface  temperature  of  29°  Fahr.).  The  direction  points 
across  Washington  Land  and  Kennedy  Channel  as  the  seat 
of  this  influencing  area." 

The  interesting  character  of  the  results  of  the  magnetic 
observations  brought  back  by  Dr.  Kane,  induced  me  to  say 
to  you,  at  the  meeting  of  the  American  Association  at  Balti 
more,  that  I  would  gladly  contribute  to  a  new  expedition, 
under  your  direction,  the  pecuniary  means  necessary  to  ex 
tend  the  observations.  To  this  offer  of  course  I  stand. 

I  feel  persuaded  that  the  experience  which  you  gained 
while  with  Dr.  Kane,  and  the  interest  which  you  must  feel 
in  his  particular  line  of  research  and  exploration,  make  you 
the  person,  of  all  others,  to  continue  the  great  work  with 
which  Kane's  name  is  forever  associated,  and  I  trust  that 
means  may  not  be  wanting  to  enable  American  enterprise  to 
complete  what  it  has  so  well  begun  and  continued. 
With  great  regard,  yours,  truly, 

A.  D.  BACHE. 

Doctor  I.  I.  HAYES. 


374         AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 


LETTER  FROM  M.  DE  LA  ROQUETTE, 

Vice-President  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris. 

To  Mr.  E.  R.  Straznicky,  Secretary  of  the  Council  of  the  American  Get* 
graphical  and  Statistical  Society,  New  York. 

PARIS,  Friday,  January  21, 1859.  ) 
19  Rue  Mazarine. 

SIR  :  —  It  is  with  the  liveliest  interest  that  I  have  read 
the  numbers  of  the  "  New  York  Tribune  "  (Dec.  6), "  Evening 
Post"  (Dec.  17),  and  "New  York  Times"  (Dec.  18),  which 
you  have  had  the  kindness  to  transmit  to  me.  They  apprise 
me  of  the  new  organization  of  the  American  Geographical 
and  Statistical  Society,  and  at  the  same  time  of  the  fact,  that, 
upon  the  proposition  of  Dr.  Hayes,  one  of  the  companions  of 
the  heroic  and  unfortunate  Dr.  Kane,  your  Society  has 
adopted,  in  concert  with  other  scientific  institutions  of  the 
United  States,  the  project  of  sending  out  a  new  expedition 
into  the  arctic  regions,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the 
correctness,  of  the  information  furnished  by  the  latter,  partic 
ularly  as  to  the  existence  of  an  open  Polar  Sea,  that  is  to 
say,  free  from  ice,  which  would  either  approach  the  Pole,  or 
extend  to  that  extremity  of  our  globe  which,  up  to  the  pres 
ent  day,  navigators  have  made  vain  efforts  to  reach. 

From  the  resolution  adopted  by  the  American  Geographi 
cal  and  Statistical  Society,  I  perceive  that  the  expedition  will 
probably  leave  in  the  spring  of  1860,  under  the  command  of 
Dr.  Hayes,  its  promoter,  and  that  its  expenses  will  be  cov 
ered  by  means  of  a  subscription.  The  attachment  which  I 
have  always  felt  for  Dr.  Kane,  and  which  he  kindly  shared, 
and  the  honor  which  your  learned  Society  has  done  me  by 
electing  me  as  their  Honorary  Member,  leaves  me  ground  to 
hope  that  they  will  allow  me  to  place  my  name  among  the 
number  of  subscribers  with  a  sum  of  five  hundred  francs, 
which  I  hold  for  their  disposition. 


APPENDIX.  375 

I  have  already  announced  to  the  Geographical  Society  of 
Paris  the  truly  national  project  conceived  by  the  United 
States.  I  will  profit  by  the  new  information  contained  in  the 
numbers  of  the  papers  which  I  owe  to  your  kindness,  and 
will  draw  up  a  detailed  account,  which  will  probably  appear 
in  the  "  Nouvelles  Annales  des  Voyages."  I  shall  always  re 
ceive  with  gratitude  the  communications  which  you  will  be 
kind  enough  to  make  to  me 

Allow  me  to  express  to  you,  Sir,  the  assurance  of  my  most 
distinguished  consideration. 

DE  LA  ROQUETTE,  No.  19  Kue  Mazarine 


NOTES  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION. 


NOTE  1.  —  Page  7. 

THE  position  thus  secured  at  Rensselaer  Harbor,  as  a 
winter-quarters  for  the  Advance,  was  in  latitude  78°  37'. 
In  my  own  voyage,  made  subsequently  during  the  years  1860  - 
1861,  in  the  schooner  United  States,  I  was  unable,  owing 
to  a  peculiar  combination  of  embarrassing  circumstances,  to 
reach,  as  I  had  expected,  the  west  coast  of  Smith  Sound,  and 
was  therefore  forced  to  select  a  winter  station  on  the  Green 
land  coast,  as  Dr.  Kane  had  done  before.  This  station  I 
named  Port  Foulke.  It  was  twenty  miles  south  of  Rensse 
laer  Harbor,  that  is,  in  latitude  78°  17',  and  distant  from  it, 
by  the  tortuous  coast  line,  from  eighty  to  ninety  miles.  It 
was  near  the  Esquimau  village  spoken  of  in  this  and  Dr. 
Kane's  narratives  as  Etah.  Its  advantages  over  Rensselaer 
Harbor  more  than  compensated  for  its  disadvantages,  inas 
much  as  there  was  no  risk  to  the  liberation  of  the  vessel, 
plenty  of  game,  and,  as  the  event  proved,  its  lower  situation 
was  not  a  very  serious  drawback ;  for,  although  I  was  com 
pelled  to  go  over  the  ground  covered  by  Dr.  Kane's  explora 
tions,  as  well  as  to  make  up  the  difference  in  latitude,  before 
I  could  get  upon  new  fields,  I  was,  nevertheless,  enabled  to 
effect  a  very  considerable  and  important  exploration  beyond 
the  limits  of  Dr.  Kane's  expedition. 


NOTE  2.  —  Page  7. 

But  little  game  was  found  in  the  vicinity  of  Rensselaer 
Harbor,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  at  Port  Foulke  it  proved 


NOTES  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION.  377 

to  be  very  abundant,  my  party  subsisting  almost  wholly  up 
on  the  flesh  of  reindeer,  of  which  more  than  two  hundred 
were  captured.  Besides  the  reindeer,  numerous  water-fowl, 
walrus,  and  seals,  and  also  foxes,  hares,  and  bears  were  taken. 
This  difference  is  the  more  remarkable,  that  the  two  stations 
were  so  short  a  distance  from  each  other. 


NOTE  3.  —  Page  12. 

In  the  autumn  of  1860, 1  was  favored  with  an  opportunity 
to  make  a  more  important  exploration  of  this  great  mer  de 
glace,  having  from  my  winter  harbor  at  Port  Foulke  ascer 
tained  that  it  had  broken  through  the  mountain  chain  at  the 
head  of  the  bay  in  which  my  harbor  was  situated,  and  was 
there  approaching  the  sea.  Up  this  glacier,  which  had  thus 
forced  the  rocky  ramparts,  I  made  my  way  with  a  small 
party  of  men,  attaining  an  altitude  of  about  five  thousand 
feet,  and  extending  my  observations  seventy  miles  from  the 
coast.  The  journey  possessed  the  more  value  that  it  was  en 
tirely  novel  as  regards  the  interior  of  Greenland.  I  was 
finally  driven  back  by  a  severe  gale  of  wind,  which,  being 
accompanied  by  a  sudden  fall  of  temperature,  placed  my 
party,  for  the  time,  in  great  jeopardy,  as  my  tent  afforded  no 
shelter ;  but  I  had  gone  far  enough  to  determine,  with  some 
degree  of  accuracy,  the  character  of  the  interior;  and  the 
information  thus  acquired,  in  connection  with  my  journey 
with  Mr.  Wilson  in  1853,  as  related  in  the  text,  furnishes  an 
important  addition  to  our  knowledge  of  the  great  glacier  sys 
tem  of  the  Greenland  Continent.  Eastward  from  the  posi 
tion  attained  on  both  of  these  journeys  no  mountains  were 
visible,  nothing  but  a  uniform  inclined  plane  of  whiteness,  a 
solid  sea  of  ice,  hundreds  and  hundreds  of  feet  in  depth, 
steadily  rising  until  lost  in  the  distance  against  the  sky.  A 
full  description  of  the  journey  of  I860  has  been  published  in 
my  "  Open  Polar  Sea." 


378  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 


NOTE  4. —  Page  14. 

.  This  vast  body  of  ice,  now  known  as  Humboldt  Glacier, 
is  the  largest  glacier  known,  being  about  sixty  miles  across, 
and  through  at  least  one  half  of  that  extent  discharging  ice 
bergs.  Like  the  glacier  already  spoken  of  as  having  broken 
through  the  mountains  near  Port  Foulke,  this  Humboldt 
Glacier  has  overcome  the  mountain  barriers,  and  poured 
down  into  the  sea  between  Greenland  and  Washington 
Land,  which  latter  is  probably  an  island,  lying  in  the  ex 
pansion  of  Smith  Sound  (or  Strait,  as  named  by  Dr.  Kane), 
the  water  flowing  to  the  eastward  of  Washington  Land  being 
now  entirely  replaced  by  the  glacier.  From  Humboldt 
Glacier  the  face  of  the  mer  de  glace  sweeps  around  behind 
the  mountain  chain  in  a  curve  towards  Port  Foulke.  At  the 
point  reached  by  Mr.  Wilson  and  myself,  the  ice  was  break 
ing  through  the  mountains,  nearly  midway  between  these  two 
extremes  of  the  curve,  and  will,  at  some  remote  period,  find 
its  way  into  Smith  Sound  through  the  tortuous  valley  which 
now  forms  the  bed  of  Mary  Minturn  River.  South  of  Port 
Foulke  the  face  of  the  mer  de  glace  forms  a  series  of  similar 
curves  of  greater  or  less  extent,  and  through  all  the  great 
valleys  of  the  Greenland  coast  range,  glaciers  discharge  into 
Baffin  Bay  their  streams  of  icebergs.  Several  of  these 
glaciers  are  from  five  to  twenty  miles  across,  and  those  of 
Melville  Bay  are  doubtless  much  more  extensive. 


NOTE  5.  —  Page  17. 

This  was  the  third  unsuccessful  attempt  by  foot-parties  to 
cross  the  Sound,  each  one  resulting  either  in  death  or  great 
prostration  to  some  of  the  men ;  and  the  subsequent  journey 
made  by  myself,  as  a  fourth  trial,  would  probably  have  met 
with  a  similar  fate  but  for  the  dogs.  This,  indeed,  is  shown 


NOTES  TO   THE  NEW  EDITION.  379 

by  my  experience  of  1861,  when,  finding  the  track  incom 
parably  worse  than  in  1854, 1  failed  with  my  men,  as  Dr. 
Kane  had  done  before  me,  and  should  not  have  succeeded 
better  than  he  did  in  pushing  my  explorations  northward, 
had  I  not  relied  upon  those  useful  animals  as  a  means  of 
transportation  across  the  ice  fields.  . 


NOTE  6.  —  Page  18. 

In  relation  to  the  scurvy,  which  so  embarrassed  Dr.  Kane 
throughout  his  voyage,  it  is  worthy  of  observation  that  not 
even  the  slightest  symptom  of  that  terrible  disease  occurred 
during  my  ten  months'  residence  at  Port  Foulke,  nor  at  any 
time  during  my  cruise  of  1860-1861.  This  was,  no  doubt, 
in  a  great  measure  due  to  the  circumstance  that  my  party  was 
always,  as  stated  in  a  previous  note,  supplied  abundantly  with 
game,  which  was  obtained  through  the  means  of  a  thoroughly 
systematized  hunt,  that  was  not  relaxed  at  any  time,  either 
in  summer  or  in  winter. 


NOTE  7.  —  Page  21. 

In  the  spring  of  1861  I  crossed  the  Sound  again,  pursuing 
nearly  the  same  course  as  that  traced  in  the  text.  The 
journey  was,  however,  even  more  laborious  ;  and,  as  illus 
trating  the  difference  in  the  condition  of  the  ice  at  these  two 
periods,  it  is  worthy  of  mention  that,  while  in  the -journey  of 
1854  I  was  eight,  days  in  crossing,  in  that  of  1861  I  was 
thirty.  The  embarrassments  and  the  severity  of  the  labor, 
added  to  the  cold  and  general  exposure  of  travelling  over  such 
a  rough  and  broken  track,  are  wearying  and  exhausting  to  a 
degree  that  can  scarcely  be  realized  without  actual  experi 
ence.  Add  to  this  the  loneliness  of  the  situation,  where  one 
is  surrounded  only  by  a  wilderness  of  icy  hummocks  and 


380  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

spires,  and  it  presents  an  aspect  almost  fearful,  especially  to 
uninstructed  minds,  where  the  power  of  careful  reasoning  is 
wanting.  In  the  journey  mentioned  in  the  text,  my  compan 
ion,  who  had  but  little  education,  though,  under  ordinary  con 
ditions,  a  reliable  man,  became  so  impressed  with  the  frightful 
appearance  of  our  surroundings,  and  the  hopelessness  of  the 
undertaking,  —  so  overwhelmingly  certain  did  it  appear  to  him 
that  we  were  running  into  the  very  jaws  of  death,  —  that  his 
reason  seemed  to  leave  him.  The  dark  and  gloomy  land 
which  loomed  ahead,  the  seemingly  endless  wasto  of  broken 
ice  which  intervened,  the  heartless  labor  involved  in  the 
ceaseless  struggle,  the  pains  of  snow  blindness,  ;aused  by  the 
incessant  glare  of  the  sun  upon  the  uniform  white  surface 
of  the  frozen  sea  over  which  the  chilly  wind  /  were  driving 
pitilessly,  making  it  needful  truly  to  arm  the  heart  with 
strength,  might  well,  in  such  a  mind  as  his,  fill  the  place 
with  visions  of  unearthly  significance.  It  was  but  natural, 
therefore,  that,  under  these  circumstances,  he  should  desire 
to  retreat  from  it.  "  Turn  back,  turn  back,"  was  the  burden 
of  his  song  morning,  noon,  and  night,  until,  tears  and  en 
treaties  failing  him,  he  fell  into  a  fit  of  madness,  and  ex 
claiming,  "  If  not  with  you,  then  without  you,"  he  tried  the 
rifle  as  a  means  to  an  escape.  Fortunately  for  both  of  us, 
a  short  rencontre  ended  in  such  a  manner  as  to  somewhat 
restore  his  senses,  and  to  enable  me  to  proceed  the  next 
day  with  less  embarrassment,  and  ultimately  to  accomplish 
my  purpose,  as  the  text  relates. 

NOTE  8.  —  Page  22. 

In  my  journey  to  Grinnell  Land  in  1861,  I  further  traced 
the  coast  line  to  latitude  82°  45',  and  from  its  shores  I  looked 
out  upon  the  Open  Polar  Sea.  This  is  the  most  northern 
known  land,  and  the  most  northern  point  of  it  I  named  Cape 
UNION.  I  found  Grinnell  Land  to  be  separated  from  Elles- 


NOTES  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION.  381 

mere  Land,  which  lies  to  the  south  of  it,  by  a  broad  channel, 
or  sound,  and  from  that  land  it  differed  greatly  in  its  geologi 
cal  features,  rising  into  lofty  mountain  peaks,  similar  to  those 
of  the  Jura  range,  and,  like  all  limestone  formations,  wherever 
found,  being  without  glaciers  ;  while,  on  the  other  hand,  Elles- 
mere  Land  presents  a  contour  of  rounded  summits,  and  an  ex 
tensive  mer  de  glace,  from  which  many  glaciers  discharge  into 
the  sea.  The  geological  character  of  Grinnell  Land  was 
shown  more  fully  by  a  collection  of  fossils  which  I  made 
between  lat.  80°  and  81°,  all  of  which  were  from  limestone 
rock  of  the  Upper  Silurian  Era.  The  land  was  singularly- 
devoid  of  life ;  even  the  Esquimaux,  which  once  inhabited  it, 
having  either  become  extinct,  or  been  driven  farther  north 
ward  in  consequence  of  the  accumulation  of  ice  in  Smith 
Sound,  caused  by  the  berg  discharge  from  Humboldt  Glacier. 


NOTE  9.  —  Page  24. 

The  reasoning  of  the  text  was  confirmed  by  my  explora 
tions  of  1861,  where,  from  a  much  more  northerly,  and  conse 
quently  more  favorable  point  of  observation,  than  that  obtained 
by  Mr.  Morton,  I  saw  the  same  sea,  and  like  him  I  was  ar 
rested  in  my  progress  northward  by  the  open  water,  and  was 
forced  by  it  to  retreat.  Even  at  so  early  a  period  of  the  sea 
son  as  May  18th,  the  sea  was  encroaching  so  rapidly  upon 
the  ice  that  my  return  south  was  hastened  as  a  measure  of 
security.  It  is  safe  to  infer  that  such  ice  as  obstructs  the 
Arctic  Ocean,  is  but  a  belt  of  varying  width,  and  that  this 
belt  was  crossed,  both  by  Mr.  Morton  and  myself;  and  there 
can  be  little  doubt  that  it  may  be  penetrated  with  ships  pro 
pelled  by  steam,  at  least  during  some  seasons,  both  by  way 
of  Smith  Sound  and  the  Spitzbergen  Sea. 


382  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 


NOTE  10.  —  Page  26. 

At  this  time  we  were  entirely  ignorant  of  the  abundant 
resources  within  our  reach  near  the  mouth  of  Smith  Sound ; 
and,  indeed,  we  remained  to  the  end  of  the  cruise  so  thorough 
ly  in  ignorance  of  the  richness  of  that  quarter  in  game,  that 
I  found  myself  much  surprised  to  discover,  when  I  landed  at 
Port  Foulke  in  1860,  that  the  region  was  teeming  with  life. 


NOTE  11.  —  Page  83. 

An  approximation  to  the  rate  of  movements  of  these  Green 
land  glaciers  may  be  formed  from  a  measurement  subse 
quently  made  by  me  of  the  glacier  near  Port  Foulke,  by 
which  it  was  shown  that  that  stream  of  ice  descends  the 
valley  at  the  rate  of  ninety-six  feet  in  eight  months. 


NOTE  12.  —  Page  90. 

The  uncertainty  of  the  navigation  of  Melville  Bay  is  well 
exhibited  by  a  comparison  of  my  own  experience  in  1860  -  61, 
which  was  extreme  on  the  one  hand,  and  those  of  the  steam 
ers  Fox  and  Diana,  which  were  extreme  on  the  other.  On 
my  northward  voyage,  in  the  schooner  United  States,  1860, 
I  ran  across  Melville  Bay  in  fifty-five  hours,  and  returned 
the  following  year  in  fifty  hours,  —  both  voyages  being  made 
in  the  month  of  August.  The  Fox,  on  the  other  hand,  was 
unable  to  cross  the  bay  at  all,  during  the  same  month  of 
1857,  and  was  finally  frozen  up  in  the  pack ;  while  the  Di 
ana,  utterly  unable,  after  several  -attempts,  to  accomplish  a 
passage  from  Lancaster  Sound  by  the  south  or  east,  was,  like 
the  Fox,  caught  in  the  pack,  and  was  not  liberated  until  the 
following  spring,  after  one  of  the  most  perilous  experiences 


NOTES   TO  THE  NEW  EDITION.  383 

ever  encountered  in  the  Arctic  regions.  The  sufferings  of 
these  poor  whalemen,  as  recounted  by  Captain  Allen  Young, 
in  the  Cornhill  Magazine,  were  as  great  as  their  courage  and 
perseverance  were  remarkable. 


NOTE  13.  —  Page  116. 

I  was  glad  to  have  opportunity  in  1861  to  complete  the 
survey  of  Whale  Sound,  on  which  occasion  I  traced  it  to  its 
termination.  I  found  that  Captain  Inglefield,  in  his  gener 
ally  excellent  though  rapid  survey  of  it,  had  mistaken  two 
lofty  capes  on  its  north  side  for  islands,  thus  placing  in  the 
mouth  of  the  sound  five  islands  instead  of  thrtee  as  there  are. 
To  these  capes  I  have  applied  the  names  which  Captain 
Inglefield  appended  to  the  supposed  islands,  and  to  the  ter 
mination  of  the  large  body  of  water  itself  I  have  given  the 
name  Inglefield  Gulf.  To  two  very  remarkable  bays  on 
its  south  side,  I  gave  the  names  of  Joseph  Harrison,  Jr.,  and 
Alfred  Cope,  Esqs.,  of  Philadelphia. 


NOTE  14.  —  Page  246. 

During  my  late  voyage  this  same  Kalutunah  was  a  fre 
quent  visitor  at  Port  Foulke,  when,  without  the  temptations 
presented  on  the  occasion  alluded  to  in  the  text,  he  was  al 
ways  found  to  be  honest  and  trustworthy.  In  this  connec 
tion  it  may  not  be  inappropriate  to  observe  that,  under  condi 
tions',  where  I  had  opportunity  to  bestow  upon  them  bountiful 
presents,  I  found  many  of  the  tribe  to  manifest  fine  traits  of 
character,  which,  guided  by  Christian  benevolence,  might 
develop  into  both  worth  and  usefulness,  and  thus  prove  the 
means  of  saving  the  tribe  from  a  fate  which  now  seems  inev 
itable.  They  have  decreased  rapidly  since  Dr.  Kane  left 
them  in  1855,  and  can  scarcely  survive  the  present  century 
if  their  rate  of  diminution  is  not  checked  by  Christian  help. 


384  AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

NOTE  15.  —  Page  328. 

I  visited  the  locality  of  the  abandoned  vessel  in  March, 
1861,  and  found  that  at  some  unknown  period  the  ice  of 
Rensselaer  Harbor  had  broken  adrift  and  carried  the  Ad 
vance  out  to  sea,  where  it  was,  no  doubt,  crushed  and  sunk. 
The  appearance  of  the  bay  was  greatly  changed,  on  the  occa 
sion  of  this  visit,  from  what  it  was  in  1853-1855,  for  the 
ice  had  again  drifted  into  it.  There  had  been  an  extensive 
crushing  of  the  tables,  and  a  disturbance  of  the  general 
smoothness  of  the  frozen  waters.  The  following  description 
of  the  bay,  written  at  the  period,  is  quoted  from  my  "  Open 
Polar  Sea  ":  — 

"  How  changed  was  everything !  Instead  of  the  broad, 
smooth  ice  over  which  I  had  so  often  strolled,  there  was  but 
a  uniform  wilderness  of  hummocks.  In  the  place  where  the 
Advance  once  lay,  the  ice  was  piled  up  nearly  as  high  as 
were  her  mast-heads.  Fern  Rock  was  almost  overridden  by 
the  frightful  avalanche  which  had  torn  down  into  the  harbor 
from  the  north,  and  the  locality  of  the  storehouse  on  Butler 
Island  was  almost  buried  out  of  sight.  No  vestige  of  the 
Advance  remained,  except  a  small  bit  of  a  deck-plank  which 
I  picked  up  near  the  site  of  the  old  Observatory.  The  fate 
of  the  vessel  is  of  course  a  matter  only  of  conjecture. 
When  the  ice  broke  up,  —  it  may  have  been  the  year  we  left 
her  or  years  afterwards,  —  she  was  probably  carried  out  to 
sea  and  ultimately  crushed  and  sunk.  From  the  Esquimaux 
I  obtained  many  contradictory  statements.  Indeed,  with  the 
best  intentions  in  the  world,  these  Esquimaux  have  great 
trouble  in  telling  a  straight  story.  Even  Kalutunah  is  not 
to  be  depended  upon  if  there  is  the  ghost  of  a  chance  for  in 
vention.  He  had  been  to  the  vessel,  but  at  one  time  it  was 
one  year  and  then  again  it  was  another.  He  had  carried  off 
much  wood,  as  many  other  Esquimaux  had  done.  Another 
Esquimau  hud  seen  a  vessel  drifting  about  in  the  north 


NOTES  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION.  385 

water  among  the  ice,  and  finally  it  was  sunk -in  the  mouth  of 
Wolstenholm  Sound.  This  was  four  summers  ago.  Another 
had  seen  the  same  vessel,  but  the  event  had  happened  only 
two  years  before ;  while  still  another  had  accidentally  set  fire 
to  the  brig  and  burned  her  up  where  she  lay  in  Van  Rens- 
selaer  Harbor.  No  two  of  them  gave  the  same  account. 
Indeed,  one  of  them  asserted,  quite  positively,  that  the  vessel 
had  drifted  down  into  the  bay  below,  was  there  frozen  up 
the  next  winter,  and  he  had  boarded  her  when  on  a  bear- 
hunt.  Kalutunah  had  nothing  positive  to 'say  on  the  subject, 
but  he  rather  inclined  to  the  story  of  the  burning." 

• 
i 

NOTE  16. —  Page  337. 

These  charts  have  been  replaced  by  others,  drawn  in  ac 
cordance  with  my  more  recent  surveys  and  discoveries.  Al 
though  projected  on  a  small  scale  (to  avoid  folding),  they 
will  be  found  sufficient  for  the  illustration  of  the  text.  As 
these  charts  embrace  the  most  northern  known  lands  of  the 
earth,  the  following  general  observations  by  the  eminent 
geographer,  Dr.  Aug.  Petermann  of  Gotha,  will  not  be  with 
out  interest  in  this  connection :  — 

"  This  most  northern  land  of  the  earth  —  das  nordlichste 
Land  derErde  —  has  received  a  pretty  rich  nomenclature  from 
its  various  explorers,  as  well  for  its  less  important  as  for  its 
more  conspicuous  points.  To  the  sea  between  Smith  Sound 
and  Kennedy  Channel,  Dr.  Hayes  proposes  the  very  neces 
sary  and  appropriate  name  of  Kane  Basin.  For  the  region 
lying  between  the  Kane  Basin  and  Melville  Bay  there  is  yet 
wanting  a  comprehensire  name,  as  it  is  a  most  conspicuous 
and  important  part  of  these  most  northern  lands,  where 
dwells  an  isolated  tribe  of  wild  Esquimaux.  To  the  south 
ern  part  of  this  region,  Ross  gave  the  name  'Arctic  High 
lands.'  The  northern  part  of  it  was  named  '  Prudhoe  Island ' 
and  'Inglefield  Island'  by  Inglefield.  But  none  of  these 
17 


386          AN  ARCTIC  BOAT  JOURNEY. 

names  are  sufficiently  significant  or  appropriate,  as  all  those 
lands  are  '  Arctic  Highlands/  and  '  Prudhoe '  and  '  Inglefield 
Islands  '  have  not  proved  to  be  such.  For  this  land  we  pro 
pose  the  name  *  Hayes  Peninsula,'  after  the  man  to  whom  we 
are  most  indebted  for  a  knowledge  of  this  territory  of  our 
chart ;  for,  independent  of  the "  explorations  which  he  has 
made  of  the  coast-lines,  he  has  besides  distinguished  himself 
by  advancing  into  the  interior  farther  than  any  previous  ex 
plorer  of  these  high  latitudes,  —  first  in  September,  1853, 
and  more  especially  in  October,  1860."  —  Dr.  A.  Petermann : 
das  nordlichste  Land  der  Erde.  Aus  Petermann's  "  Geogr. 
Mittheilungen?  Heft  5.  Gotha,  Justus  Perthes,  April,  1867. 

NOTE  17.  —  Page  343. 

That  the  cold  and  scurvy  are  no  longer  to  be  considered  se 
rious  embarrassments  to  Arctic  explorations  is  further  shown 
by  personal  experience  in  my  late  voyage,  —  not  a  trace  of 
scurvy  being  manifested,  and  one  of  my  journeys  having 
been  made  in  a  temperature  ranging  from  50°  to  68£°  below 
zero,  without  other  shelter  than  a  snow  hut,  and  with  no  fire 
but  the  simple  lamp  of  our  cooking  furnace. 

NOTE  18.  —  Page  345. 

As  stated  in  a  former  note,  I  failed  in  my  voyage  of  1860 
-61  to  reach  the  west  side  of  Smith  Sound  with  my  vessel, 
after  the  plan  laid  down  in  the  text,  and  hence  I  could  not 
avail  myself  of  the  advantages  which  a  harbor  at  Cape 
Frazer  would  have  given  me.  The  causes  of  this  failure 
were  incident  to  Arctic  navigation,  —  strong  head  gales  and  a 
heavy  pack.  Baffled  by  these,  and  with  my  vessel  badly 
crippled,  I  was  forced  into  a  harbor  on  the  Greenland  coast, 
and  met  with  the  same  embarrassment  from  the  ice  in  trav 
elling  that  had  previously  befallen  Dr.  Kane.  My  men 


NOTES  TO  THE  NEW  EDITION.  887 

could  not  cross  the  sound  at  all  with  sledges ;  and  I  reached 
Cape  Frazer  in  the  spring  of  1861  with  little  provisions  and 
badly  battered  and  much  exhausted  teams  of  dogs.  This 
being  my  true  point  of  departure,  from  which  I  had  expected 
to  set  out  with  a  boat,  my  plans  were,  in  effect,  broken  up. 
Everything  that  was  possible,  under  any  circumstances,  to 
have  accomplished  with  dog  sledge,  was  accomplished ;  but 
I  lacked  the  boat,  which,  had  I  succeeded  in  pushing  to  Cape 
Frazer  with  my  schooner  the  previous  autumn,  I  would  have 
had  with  me  for  the  navigation  of  the  Polar  Sea.  My  great 
drawback  was  the  want  of  steam  power,  with  which  I  could 
readily  have  stemmed  the  gales  and  the  pack,  and  then  have 
reached  Cape  Frazer  in  August,  1850.  This  plan,  I  still 
hope  to  carry  out.  My  vessel  was  too  much  injured  to  en 
able  me  to  renew  the  attempt  the  next  year. 

NOTE  19.  — Page  351. 

This  little  flag  had  wholly  disappeared  when  I  visited  the 
spot  in  May,  1861,  —  not  a  vestige  of  it  remaining.  The 
winds  had  whipped  it  entirely  away.  But  the  whipstock  on 
which  I  had  hung  it  was  standing  there  as  erect  and  firm  as 
when  I  had  stuck  it  among  the  barren  rocks  some  seven 
years  before.  Picking  it  up  I  carried  it  two  degrees  farther 
north,  where  it  again  awaits  me. 


THE  END. 


Cambridge  :  Printed  by  Welch,  Bigelow,  &  Co. 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

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